First watch strap with lining, first time sewing

[Nikos]

Hello, i made my first watch strap with lining and it was the first time sewing something except scraps. I have some questions, but please tell me anything that you thing i should fix.

I sew the long part first and i think i did the short one a little bit better but it was not good either. Is the problem the tension or the uneven movements while sewing?

The strap was perfectly straight at the beginning but it became like this after i opened the holes for the sewing. It stretched unevenly.

Also i damaged the edges too much while sewing. Is there a way to not damage them too much or should i fix them after sewing?

 

Thanks!

[Northmount]

@Nikos Moved your post to leather sewing machines.  You'll get more help here.

Tom

Edited September 28, 2019 by Wizcrafts
Not a sewing machine matter

[Wizcrafts]

Before any advice can be given we need to know the sewing machine make and model, the thickness of the strap edges, the size of thread and size and type of the needle used (e.g., round point, LR, LL, or Diamond point).

Edited September 28, 2019 by Wizcrafts
This topic turned out to be a hand sewing matter.

[Nikos]

Sorry, i used the wrong word. it was hand stitched. It's the same word in Greek and i am not used to writing English. Sorry for the trouble.

Edited September 28, 2019 by Nikos

[chrisash]

Hi Nikos and welcome to the forum

It may be better to cut the leather larger than required and then after stitching, trim the edge to the correct size

[Wizcrafts]

I've moved this to Sewing Leather where hand stitching is discussed. There is no machine involved in this matter.

[Danne]

I don't really understand the problem. If the strap stretches into a "curve" then you tension the thread too much on one side. If you are talking about uneven edges after stitching then the solution is either, using thinner thread or less tension, stitching farther from the edge, or sand/finish the edge after stitching. 

[Professor]

Rolling a groove into the leather for the thread to lay in will help keep the stitches straight.

In restitching older bands with a lighter grade of leather as a liner I lock stitch using a thinner  thread on the inside surface. There's really no need to pull the stitches very tight if the thicker exterior is grooved properly.

[Tugadude]

On 9/27/2019 at 1:32 PM, Nikos said:

Hello, i made my first watch strap with lining and it was the first time sewing something except scraps. I have some questions, but please tell me anything that you thing i should fix.

I sew the long part first and i think i did the short one a little bit better but it was not good either. Is the problem the tension or the uneven movements while sewing?

The strap was perfectly straight at the beginning but it became like this after i opened the holes for the sewing. It stretched unevenly.

Also i damaged the edges too much while sewing. Is there a way to not damage them too much or should i fix them after sewing?

 

Thanks!

Nikos, your English is much better than my Greek, so you are doing fine!  Regarding the strap, several helpful comments have been made but first we need to understand your whole process before being able to figure out what to fix.

Did you use a pricking iron or a stitching wheel to make marks and then an awl to open the holes as you say, or did you use a stitching iron to make holes in the leather?

If an awl, then you might have to work on maintaining an exact angle each and every time you penetrate the leather along with ensuring that you push the awl the same depth at all times.  Some stitches seem to have gone awry because of loss of control of the awl or inconsistency in your stitching.  Maintaining needle priority as you stitch can cause some of the irregular portions.  Some of the stitching looks great, by the way.

If using stitching chisels to make the holes then the trouble is in the stitching technique.

Please elaborate on your process if you can.  It helps us figure out what is going on.

[zuludog]

Hello Nikos, and welcome to the forum. Here are some suggestions for you

Is that linen thread? Try using thinner, synthetic thread

Make the strap wider than you need, then cut it narrower when you've sewn it. Make the distance between the stitching and the outside edge of the leather about 6 or 7mm at first, then trim off the extra width. You will, of course, make the strap the correct width just where it fits the attachment slots

Make a groove for the stitching with a pair of dividers, then make the holes along the line. Pull the stitching tight enough so that it sinks below the surface of the leather

Edited October 22, 2019 by zuludog

[NeilMott]

Hi Nikos.

I'd say like others, you're getting some fraying... maybe use synthetic thread.  You have a couple times where the needle priority (putting one needle behind the other before passing the 2nd needle through) is mixed up.  What I always do is a "cast" I think it's called.  I put the 2nd needle in front of the thread, pass through, then wrap the thread over the needle.  This creates a knot.  This was key for me to always keep the slant on my saddle stitching.   I'm probably messing up the terms here, but that's the idea.

As far as other ideas, depth of the punch and tension on the thread when tightening will change the slant quite a bit.  With time you'll be more consistent with both.  I speak from experience for sure!

Neil

[Danne]

I make my straps to the correct dimension, or actually -0.5mm to leave room for edge paint, before I stitch. 

Can you give me some information that might help to understand why your strap deforms. What irons do you use? how thick is the leather? (total thickness of the strap) how far from the edge is the center of your stitch? (LIke where do you scribe with your wing divider or what you use?

Also I see someone who could improve just by slowing down a little, and let it take a little bit more time. I see on your back side that you missed to cast the thread on some holes here and there, otherwise stitching looks clean. Ps don't give ut making straps. Keep making them and find something to improve on every strap. Making straps is so good go become good at attention to small details, and the leather cost is law. Also it's super fun to make them (Or I think so :))

Edited August 23, 2020 by Danne