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Vinito

Restoration for Juki LU-562 & upgrade to LU-563 Bobbin

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@Vinito, I spent a few minutes looking at the 562 and the 563 side by side and made some observations.

Photo 1 - the opening in the bed casting needs to notched to allow the 'bobbin case opening lever crank' to clear when you slide the saddle to the right for the larger hook.

Photo 2 - you can see the 'bobbin case opening lever crank' is beveled on the upper left corner of the 563 to clear the larger hook.

Photo 3 - You were asking how much to mill the top of the upper bushing. You suggested .100" and the video mentions a few thousands. The goal is to get the finger on the hook assembly to fit at the correct height in the notch of the throat plate. You should be able to measure how much you need to mill the bushing by putting the new hook in position and see how high it sits.

 

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Thanks for taking the time to post those pics!  

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Excellent info.

Note that the genuine 563 has a different saddle and crank than the 562, so if you're doing the budget upgrade and just changing the lever and using the 562 saddle and crank, you probably won't need to mill that relief in the bed casting. Thus going either full conversion or budget conversion, you're gonna need to do some milling, either in the saddle & crank to clear the large bobbin(budget upgrade) or the bed to clear the larger parts (full upgrade).

I could be wrong about the bed not needing milling on the budget upgrade because the thing will set more to the right on the larger hook, but I've never seen or heard it mentioned before so I suspect it might not be necessary. I can switch some parts out on mine since I'm stumbling around in there anyway and I'll report what I find. I probably won't have time until the weekend though.

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Using a counterbore with removable pilot in the drill press would seem to be pretty straight forward since finding a bushing to bridge the gap between an undersized pilot and hook shank bore is just a little measuring and fiddling with scrap tubing in the junk drawer.  The downside is $60 in the cutter and pilot for people that would use it once.

Ill just chuck it in the 4 jaw, but there must be an easy way for someone without a lathe or mill.

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Hi Vinito, I love what you did to your Juki.  I have a question for you; I recently purchased barely used Juki Lu-563 that had something fall on it and the Main shaft is bent. I purchased this machine mainly for spare parts for my other Juki-563 that I already own.  I thought for couple hundred bucks, I have a trove of spare parts in case something happens to my beloved Juki.  Initially, I thought the damage was more severe because the machine would not turn and the clutch mechanism was engaged and nothing seemed to work. But upon further inspection I noticed there was a clump of thread stuck underneath the bobin case (which is quite common with these machines) and upon removal of the thread and oiling the machine, I was able to disengage the clutch and as it turns out the machine turns smoothly as it should and there is no damage to the internal parts besides the small external bend in the shaft where the hand wheel sits.  So, now I am thinking I should fix it and use it instead of just keeping it for parts.  Is there any literature that you recommend looking at before I start taking things apart? I do not want to damage any other parts trying to remove the shaft and since the bend is outside the head pulling it through the front may be a bit tricky.  I will try to post a pic of how the damage looks like.  Regards, 

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10 hours ago, DanMesser said:

Hi Vinito, I love what you did to your Juki.  I have a question for you; I recently purchased barely used Juki Lu-563 that had something fall on it and the Main shaft is bent. I purchased this machine mainly for spare parts for my other Juki-563 that I already own.  I thought for couple hundred bucks, I have a trove of spare parts in case something happens to my beloved Juki.  Initially, I thought the damage was more severe because the machine would not turn and the clutch mechanism was engaged and nothing seemed to work. But upon further inspection I noticed there was a clump of thread stuck underneath the bobin case (which is quite common with these machines) and upon removal of the thread and oiling the machine, I was able to disengage the clutch and as it turns out the machine turns smoothly as it should and there is no damage to the internal parts besides the small external bend in the shaft where the hand wheel sits.  So, now I am thinking I should fix it and use it instead of just keeping it for parts.  Is there any literature that you recommend looking at before I start taking things apart? I do not want to damage any other parts trying to remove the shaft and since the bend is outside the head pulling it through the front may be a bit tricky.  I will try to post a pic of how the damage looks like.  Regards, 

You might consider straightening the shaft in place - these shafts are not especially difficult to bend in the first place, and bending them back is fairly easy if you have a way to measure progress.   My lu-562 was damaged in shipment and after bending the shaft straight I couldn’t feel any roughness in the rear bearing - figured it wasn’t any more damaged then when the shaft was originally bent.  It wouldn’t surprise me if that bearing eventually needs to be replaced.

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DonInReno,

Yes, I considered that option, and may try it.  Maybe if I bought a threaded rod that would screw in into the shaft and then gently apply pressure on it.  The only thing is that the bend is literally 1/2" from the end of the shaft so it may be difficult to do that.  the impact had to be pretty sever because the hand wheel is cracked in three places where it fits onto the shaft and the table top the machine was installed in broke in one corner.  I guess something fell right on this machine during transport, when I went to pick it up it was still sitting on a pallet.   I also thought of removing the shaft and  stoping by a local machine shop and see if they can straighten it out for me, they may have equipment for this kind of issues.  I contacted Juki to see if maybe this shaft was used in a newer model that is still production, but so far no response from them; they must think I am crazy..lol.  Here are the images of the damage caused by the impact. I appreciate any suggestions.  Thank you

DP1D6734.jpg

DP1D6738.jpg

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Contact MJ Foley and ask if they have the Main Shaft, part #D1201-055-B00 (same part as the LU-562). I have had good luck getting genuine Juki 562/3 parts from them.

http://www.mjfoleyco.com/

 

 

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Yep, that’s about what mine looked like.

The bend is right where the handwheel transitions from thin portion that cracked to the solid part of the wheel.

I used the damaged handwheel, a few wood blocks and a hammer to tap it back to a normal range.   An inexpensive dial indicator showed progress.

 

A953C07A-9CD4-472B-A8B6-79053EF7CA18.jpeg

96A84E78-FEB6-4E38-91F6-B45FFDD5E022.jpeg

Edited by DonInReno

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Hmm, that is actually a pretty clever way of doing it.  I will have to try it. I will let you know how it goes; hope it works.

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On 7/5/2020 at 6:22 PM, DanMesser said:

Hi Vinito, I love what you did to your Juki.  I have a question for you; I recently purchased barely used Juki Lu-563 that had something fall on it and the Main shaft is bent. I purchased this machine mainly for spare parts for my other Juki-563 that I already own.  I thought for couple hundred bucks, I have a trove of spare parts in case something happens to my beloved Juki.  Initially, I thought the damage was more severe because the machine would not turn and the clutch mechanism was engaged and nothing seemed to work. But upon further inspection I noticed there was a clump of thread stuck underneath the bobin case (which is quite common with these machines) and upon removal of the thread and oiling the machine, I was able to disengage the clutch and as it turns out the machine turns smoothly as it should and there is no damage to the internal parts besides the small external bend in the shaft where the hand wheel sits.  So, now I am thinking I should fix it and use it instead of just keeping it for parts.  Is there any literature that you recommend looking at before I start taking things apart? I do not want to damage any other parts trying to remove the shaft and since the bend is outside the head pulling it through the front may be a bit tricky.  I will try to post a pic of how the damage looks like.  Regards, 

 

And how is it going here? Large hook installed?

Edited by Constabulary

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I just straightened the main shaft on a Singer 31K20, as I am not a hammer fan, I used a Dial gauge and a piece of steel tube about a meter long that fitted snugly over the shaft.

It took many goes as I did not want to damage it by going to far and now I have a working machine, once i buy the other parts that where broken when it was dropped.

Bert.

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Well, it looks like I will have to straighten the shaft by myself, I called quite few distributors listed on Juki's website and none has the part. I will try to get done tomorrow or Thursday, I will let you guys know how it went. I searched localy for a  non working machine that I could acquire for the shaft only, but in Chicagoland area finding 563 models is rare.

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5 minutes ago, DanMesser said:

I searched localy for a  non working machine that I could acquire for the shaft only, but in Chicagoland area finding 563 models is rare.

Have you tried Hoffman Brothers in Rosemont, Il? They are a long time industrial sewing machine dealership.

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On 7/7/2020 at 11:45 PM, Wizcrafts said:

Have you tried Hoffman Brothers in Rosemont, Il? They are a long time industrial sewing machine dealership.

I did, but I think HB is still not operating in full capacity, they do not answer their phone or call back after I left two messages.  I know they where closed during the lockdown so who knows.  I may stop by their place next week, I live not far from them.   Thanks a  bunch!

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Hello Vinito , congratulation for your very good job with your Juki ....

I just imagine your machine with other color ...

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On 10/19/2019 at 7:26 PM, JJN said:

I may also need B1129-563-000 frame thread guide-upper, as it may work better guiding the thread with the longer take-up arm.

I don't know if this will help anyone, but I received my order of parts for my 562 from Kava in Montreal (excellent service!) and the size of the guide loop is identical on the new part but the bracket positions it about 10mm lower on the body, seemingly to allow for the different swing of the lever. 

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