New accessories for my Juki 1541S and sewing Table, #2

[kgg]

The second is a dual purpose holder that can hold up to 18 bobbins and my vape. I always hated reaching around the belt side of the table to get or place a empty bobbin and was forever knocking my vape of the table. If I still smoked I would have been knocking off the ashtray so I came up with this solution.  It c clamps to the table top and has two upright pins and a bottom swivel pin all able to store 6 bobbins each as well as holding my vape.

 

[Louiesdad]

You may want to research what that vape is doing to you or just post your location for the yard sale when it finishes you off.

I wii bid $250 for that Juki when all your stuff goes on sale.......................

after thinking it over 

I will bid $275, I want to be fair to your family.

Edited October 26, 2019 by Louiesdad

[kgg]

Dang, you have been outbid on the Juki. Gave up smoking, did that for 52 years and started vaping about three years ago. No ill effects so far other then the sense of smell and taste that were laying dormant for so long came back with a vengeance, still love the smell of a good cig or cigar. Had a small smoking habit of between two and four packs a day every day. No cancers, breathing or heart issues just decided to try something different. Can vape to my hearts content for under $30 a month which is a lot cheaper then feeding the smoking habit. We make our own vape so I take full responsibility for all aspects with regard to the source and quality of ingredients, mixture of ingredients, taste and the level of nicotine.

I wouldn't recommend to anyone to try vaping but if you smoke it maybe an alternative to the smoking habit. I think it's the lesser of two evils but keeps me sane which I know is debatable.

kgg

[Scoutmom103]

What type of 3D printing do you use to manufacture the accessories for your Juki?                   What software do you use to design and create the correct files for your 3D printer?    

[kgg]

We are using a Prusa i3 printer, Autodesk Fusion 360 for basic design and Cura for slicing.

kgg

[kgg]

I should have added that for the Vape/Bobbin Holder we used PETG (black) filament, for the Bobbin Stand and Bobbin Thread Guide we used PLA(+) filament. The colours in the photos of the thread stand and bobbin guide were just magic marker rubbed over the surface to added some effect for the photos. We had to replace the .4 nozzle that came with Pursa i3 with a Nozzle X after about 40 hours of operation. Didn't like the PETG filament had to use masking tape on the bed, print at half speed and fiddle with the temperature setting to get decent results. The PLA(+) gave overall better and faster results with just washable glue stick rubbed over the bed. We will be using mostly the PLA(+) in various colours in the future.

kgg

[RockyAussie]

6 hours ago, kgg said:

I should have added that for the Vape/Bobbin Holder we used PETG (black) filament, for the Bobbin Stand and Bobbin Thread Guide we used PLA(+) filament. The colours in the photos of the thread stand and bobbin guide were just magic marker rubbed over the surface to added some effect for the photos. We had to replace the .4 nozzle that came with Pursa i3 with a Nozzle X after about 40 hours of operation. Didn't like the PETG filament had to use masking tape on the bed, print at half speed and fiddle with the temperature setting to get decent results. The PLA(+) gave overall better and faster results with just washable glue stick rubbed over the bed. We will be using mostly the PLA(+) in various colours in the future.

kgg

Are you using a heated bed and if so at what temperature? I use pla+ on near everything these days and only ever clean up between prints with IPA isopropyl alcohol. A bit of a squirt from the bottle and a quick wipe over with some toilet paper and she's right to go again. Run your first coat about 1/3 slower than your main speed and very close to the plate. Bed temp on mine is normally set at 65 degrees C. Another little suggestion as I found it helpful is after your stl file is put into Cura, rotate the print on the base 45degrees and you will find that it (generally) travels smoother and gives a better print.

[kgg]

1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

Are you using a heated bed and if so at what temperature? I use pla+ on near everything these days and only ever clean up between prints with IPA isopropyl alcohol. A bit of a squirt from the bottle and a quick wipe over with some toilet paper and she's right to go again. Run your first coat about 1/3 slower than your main speed and very close to the plate. Bed temp on mine is normally set at 65 degrees C. Another little suggestion as I found it helpful is after your stl file is put into Cura, rotate the print on the base 45degrees and you will find that it (generally) travels smoother and gives a better print.

We are using the new MK3S which comes with the new and 'improved' rough texture PEI flex steel removable bed. The only way to get consistency with first layer sticking is to use Elmers blue glue stick. Only alternative is to take rought steel wool and roughen it up. Which we do not want to do. Glue works perfect for PLA, but PETG is too sticky for just glue - thus tape layer. Its old school but it works. At some point will replace with the older 'smooth' version (as soon as the new firmware is bug fixed for having multiple bed plates - right now 3.8.0 is buggy - as that way we can dial in z-height for both beds... or use one for PETG which needs a slightly higher nozzle vs PLA). It is on the list of upgrades.

For temperatures we used a modified version of 'Pretty PLA' and 'Pretty PETG' that has been dialed in for our specific machine. Usually 160 noz + 60c bed for 49 point bed levelling (the PID can get wonky with fully heated nozzle) and then increases to 215/70C for PLA, or 240/80 for PETG. Of course fan is off for first few layers 3 to 7 depending on material to keep curling to a min, and extrusion width is set to either .95 or .92 depending on material (once again dialed in for our machine so may be different for others).

For the hassle factor of PETG we will at some point go to carbon fibre or nylon or more exotic 3M materials (such as the 316L they recently released)... and build a tent for a heated enclosure. That of course also means going from a E3D NozzleX .4mm to a .6 NozzleX or .8mm so as to reduce clogs with the larger fibres. Never going back to brass nozzles as the Nozzle X never clogs (even leaving PETG in the head for a day or three and then using PLA it just flows out first time, every time).

We have set the orientation so that the gcode tells the printer to print lines mostly via X or Y travel rather then X plus Y travel - it's faster and more precise that way.

kgg

[RockyAussie]

Sounds like you are working it out pretty well. I am still running an old Prusa i3 but with a few good mods to keep out the vibration. I think I prefer the glass plate bed or I should say mirror now as that is what was handy here when I needed to do a quick replacement. So far that's been holding up better than the original. Also sounds like you using a later version of Curra than me. I tried out the latest and still get better results from my old 15.04.2 version. Re the turning the job on the plate it is amazing to see that it often cuts back the time as well as improve the quality. Interesting stuff. I will do a post on some 3D pattern cutting stuff later today which you might like to see.

Cheers Brian

[kgg]

I look forward to seeing the pattern cutting stuff. Working on a 3d print for a adjustable (0-50mm) swing-away edge guide and a adjustable (20 - 50mm) bias folder.

kgg

[RockyAussie]

2 hours ago, kgg said:

I look forward to seeing the pattern cutting stuff. Working on a 3d print for a adjustable (0-50mm) swing-away edge guide and a adjustable (20 - 50mm) bias folder.

kgg

I will look forward to seeing them when you get them done. The bias folder just made me think how easy it would be to print up an adjustable guide for strap folding. Might just have a play with that .....if I ever get the time.

[dikman]

When I started out it was commonly said that a heated bed wasn't necessary for PLA so I didn't bother with it, just glass and a glue stick. Worked fine most of the time but depending on the shape I would occasionally get curling or the item coming loose part way through (that was annoying). I finally decided to use the heated bed (60*C) and no more problems. I still use a glue stick on small items, just in case.

I too am curious to see what you come up with for your edge guide.

[chrisash]

Have you seen the low prices for the small DLP printers these day with fantastic detail, I also saw some leather stamps from a SLA printer with incredible detail

I need advice never used anything but a 0.4 nozzle to date, but looking for more detail so considering using a 0.2. In theory it should offer improved detail but much longer print time, but has anyone had any experience of using 0.2 and did you find a large improvement or just a minor one. I know its easy to change but with playing with setup it can take some time, so if anyone has had great results and success I am all ears