Fraying thread on Consew 255rb-3

[buellfire]

Hello all.

First post however I have been lurking for the last month or so. I am a newer sewer and have just moved up from a White 322 and Singer 401A 1950's or 60's home units to a Consew 255rb-3. The Consew has a Family 550w servo motor installed. The problem I am having is with needle and thread. The thread keeps unraveling at the needle. I'm not sure if I have the correct needle or thread, I am sewing vinyl. I would also like to swap the pulleys as I run the machine on the second speed setting, at this setting the foot pedal is like a light switch.   Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Shawn

[kgg]

A couple of photos would help.

What thread are you using? What needle size are you using? Is the machine thread path correct and the bobbin installed correctly? How thick is the material you are trying to sew?

kgg

[buellfire]

Kgg,

The thread and needle that came with the machine, (I bought this lightly used) are not marked. I am sewing vinyl upholstery, usually 2 - 4 layers thick. When I bought the machine it went though 6 layers of my vinyl with no problem. Has anyone used this similar machine on like material? If so what thread and/or needle did you use. I will go down to my work area and try to submit pictures soon.

Thanks for any help! 

[kgg]

The thread cone should have a label on the inside bottom of the cone. On the label you should see a description like Bonded Nylon or Bond Polyester and a size like V69, V92 or V138. Once you know the size of thread you can determine what is the correct needle size that you should be using. A good thread / needle chart is can be found at ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ).

If I am correct your machine uses the standard 135 x 17 needles for material and 135 x 16 for leather. For V69 thread you should be using a size #18 needle,  V92 thread size #19 and V138 thread size #22. However what I have found is that you may have to go up a needle size if the material is a little sticky like some types of vinyl.

Depending on the material you are sewing the needle needs to be replaced when it causes problems or starts to get dull. I usually replace my needles every 8 hours of run time, change of thread size or when it starts to cause problems, whichever comes first.

kgg

[Pintodeluxe]

The thread fraying I've personally experienced has been due to one of these problems...

1.  Old thread / poor quality thread.  

2.  Sharp edge inside the eye of the needle / defective needle.

3.  When threading the machine, if you miss the needle bar thread guide it is a recipe for shredded thread.  Quite often a machine is supposed to be equipped with a needle bar thread guide, but it is missing.

I would start with new thread in the size you need, 92 weight thread for instance.  Then match the needle size to the thread.  So 135x17 (135x16 for leather point) is the needle system, and use #19 or #20 needle for that thread.  If you move up or down in thread size, change the needle size to match.

Best of luck!  

[buellfire]

[buellfire]

[buellfire]

I believe I found part of my problem, part of my needle is missing and broken inside of the receptor of the needle.

[kgg]

After you get the broken needle part out. You are presently using V69 Bonded Nylon thread which will require a 135 x 17 size 18 min. but you may continue to have problems with using this small a thread and diameter needle going through multi layers of vinyl. I would change the thread to at least V92 (stronger) and a larger needle size (20). The larger needle size will be larger in diameter and stronger with less deflection. I do like your table extension it will come in handy.

kgg

[kgg]

Forgot to mention. Once you decide on thread size that works for your stuff if you have problems with the 8 oz cones particularly black like excessive backlash causing the thread to go under the cone move up to the 1 lb size cones.

kgg

[buellfire]

Thanks Kgg, you have been a huge help! I will work on this over the next day or so and report back. The table is a great work space and fits my basement work shop well. Having the shelves and a cabinet allows me to keep all of my supplies close at hand, I still need to work on organization of the tools. A project for another day.  

Edited December 23, 2019 by buellfire

[buellfire]

I was able to remove the broken part of the needle with a dental pic. I have one flat head screw that holds both the needle and last thread guide, should I have two needle set screws?
 

[kgg]

Great, you got the piece out. I would really clean the hole for the needle, maybe with a pipe cleaner and light oil just in case there is some dirt in there. Remember to put a cloth or paper towels down on your bed to catch any oil. As far as needing a second screw I don't think but I am not sure so check your manual or download a service manual for the machine.

Merry Christmas,

kgg

[buellfire]

Ok, figured somethings out! First I realized my Bobben spins counterclockwise on a 255RB-3. That fixed the underside rats nest I would get at times. Next with the broken part of the needle removed my needles fit perfectly and do not bind.However I was still getting thread separation between the needle and the thread guide, I realized that the cut out in my needle should be at the 3 o’clock position while looking at the machine I had it in the 9 o’clock position, rotating the needle 180° solved my thread separation problem see attached pictures. The reason I wanted to bring this thread to a close is for future generations that may be struggling with the same thing.I realized that the cut out in my needle should be at the 3 o’clock position while looking at the machine I had it in the 9 o’clock position, rotating the needle 180° solved my thread separation problem see attached pictures. The reason I wanted to bring this thread to a close is for future generations that may be struggling with the same thing.

[buellfire]

One last thing merry Christmas everyone! Here’s a picture sewing through 6 layers!

Edited December 24, 2019 by buellfire

[Bluefever]

On 12/24/2019 at 10:36 AM, buellfire said:

Ok, figured somethings out! First I realized my Bobben spins counterclockwise on a 255RB-3. That fixed the underside rats nest I would get at times. Next with the broken part of the needle removed my needles fit perfectly and do not bind.However I was still getting thread separation between the needle and the thread guide, I realized that the cut out in my needle should be at the 3 o’clock position while looking at the machine I had it in the 9 o’clock position, rotating the needle 180° solved my thread separation problem see attached pictures. The reason I wanted to bring this thread to a close is for future generations that may be struggling with the same thing.I realized that the cut out in my needle should be at the 3 o’clock position while looking at the machine I had it in the 9 o’clock position, rotating the needle 180° solved my thread separation problem see attached pictures. The reason I wanted to bring this thread to a close is for future generations that may be struggling with the same thing.

Thank you so much for that information.  I also had my needle in 180 degrees off.   Actually I did so because the old manual I found on line said to.  I have changed that with notes in my manual.   Also in that manual it says to install bobbin so thread pulls from left to right.  Very confusing un till you realize the bobbin rotates counter clock wise.