pattysoup Report post Posted January 22, 2020 Hi all New to all of this fun. I have a new clone 341 Kobe? Problem - knee lift too tight - when using the knee lift the black bar connected to the knee lift is extremely difficult to move. (scratching paint off the machine) and the bolt connecting the knee lift pad spins. questions: 1. Can I fix this? I do not like the knee lift and would like an alternative to using it. Any suggestions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bert51 Report post Posted January 22, 2020 I think you have the lever under the table on the knee lever in to far. You need it out as far as it will go to give you the leverage to move the lifter. Bert. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted January 22, 2020 You can replace the knee lever with a foot pedal that bolts onto the pedal bar and uses a chain to connect to a clip on the end of the black lifting bar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted January 22, 2020 50 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said: You can replace the knee lever with a foot pedal that bolts onto the pedal bar and uses a chain to connect to a clip on the end of the black lifting bar. Or connect the chain to the wire loop that hooks onto the knee lift (although hooking onto the hole at the end of the lifting bar will give greater leverage for lifting). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pattysoup Report post Posted January 22, 2020 Thank you for getting back to me. Purchased the machine from Chris at Japan Sewing Machines. I did ask him for a speed reducer but he said I did not need one and he does not have any to sell. So now what? I found an engineering manual for the1341 on this platform but not the 341 which I believe this machine to be. I used this platform to do my research before purchasing from Chris - I knew enough to be a danger to myself. I came close to purchasing the Techsew 2750 again all information found here Thank you Bert and Wiz - will give it a try. Wiz the pedal bar and chain will be my next purchase. Does anyone know where a Canadian could purchase such a thing? Kind regards Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted January 22, 2020 The label on the machine says LS-1341. The geometry on that knee lifter looks wrong, normally you push sideways with your knee to operate it but yours looks like you have to push up with the knee? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bert51 Report post Posted January 22, 2020 Sadly I cannot draw a straight line, but try this before you go doing else. Loosen the adjusting nut and move the small lever in red forward, roughly as drawn, then you should be able to lift the foot easier. Bert. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted January 22, 2020 14 hours ago, pattysoup said: I have a new clone 341 Kobe? Problem - knee lift too tight Hi Patty In the future, please start a new thread when your topic is different than the OP's topic. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted January 22, 2020 6 hours ago, Bert51 said: Loosen the adjusting nut and move the small lever in red forward, roughly as drawn, then you should be able to lift the foot easier. I agree with Bert51. I would also add a couple of things. Have you called the dealer for some advise? I would remove the connecting cable and back off the tension return spring from the level to see if the pivoting bolt for the level is to tight / sticky and or the lever spring maybe also set to high giving more resistance then necessary. I may even try connecting the cable out to the last hole if possible to get as much leverage you can on the lift lever. The knee pad on the lifting mechanism needs to be move so the pad would be at a 7 o'clock position as a starting point. Bolts need to be really tight and bite into the round shaft or a flat spot ground into the shaft to prevent slippage. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pattysoup Report post Posted January 22, 2020 Hi all Thank you, Tom I will pay more attention to future post location. I just completed the fix and used a combo of all guidance. Pics attached. Enlarged hole and moved wire connection. Thank you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted January 22, 2020 Can't help wondering about the competency of the dealer who set that up.......... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted January 22, 2020 The main question, did it sew correctly right out of the box? kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bert51 Report post Posted January 22, 2020 I have all my knee lifters out as far as I can get them. I have one little overlocker that needs a longer lever, but sadly, no room to do it and can't get a foot peddle to work very well either. Bert. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted January 22, 2020 2 hours ago, pattysoup said: I just completed the fix and used a combo of all guidance. As an additional suggestion I would try using only one point of connection of the plastic coated wire to the presser foot lift lever to remove the need for twisting of the wire, improve / reduce lifting pressure caused by the rubbing of the twisted wire as it moves through the table and improve the appearance / performance. To do this I would remove the wire bolt connector closest to the needle on the presser foot lift lever and reuse it at the other end of the wire too form a smaller tighter loop around the small hook-like rod at the knee lift connecting rod just under the hole for the wire in the table while also changing the angle and length of the small hook on the knee lift shaft. That should help with getting the wire to travel more in the centre of the hole in the table. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pattysoup Report post Posted January 23, 2020 Thank you kgg - re: The main question, did it sew correctly right out of the box? Yes, I live near the dealer he set it up and I tested it and it sewed well although I did feel a little resistance with the presser foot - moving forward to setting up at home the presser foot was awkward ie: I had to push my leg out quite far to get it to work. I tried tightening. (33T5-008 BRACKET made of cast iron) it craked so I returned to the dealer and purchased a new bracket made of stainless steel. re: try using only one point of connection of the plastic coated wire to the presser foot lift lever Okay, I will try that. Question: Is my current set-up for the presser foot lift uncommon and possibly problematic? Kind regards Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted January 23, 2020 20 minutes ago, pattysoup said: Question: Is my current set-up for the presser foot lift uncommon and possibly problematic? I think your present setup should work fine but think it could be improved for performance and appearance. Having a knee lift is not uncommon nor is a foot pedal activated lift. If I am not mistaken the Juki 341 and 1341 both use a cable connection to the presser foot lift lever while I have seen chain and solid round metal rods also used. The object of any configuration is to pull down on the presser foot lever to lift the presser foot up to it's highest point. The less resistance to the movement of the lever the better. Personally I think the pivot bolt connection on most machines that use your type of lift lever and pivot bolt connection could be greatly improved by incorporating a flat round bearing seated in the lever at the pivot point. That way there would be less resistance / rubbing between the pivot bolt and the lift lever. In my opinion it's just poor engineering to save the cost of a proper bearing, about a cent for the manufacturer. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted January 23, 2020 As a side note what was the approximate cost of the machine as I am sure others who are thinking about buying that type of machine would like to know a ball park number. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pattysoup Report post Posted January 23, 2020 hi Kgg, re: In my opinion it's just poor engineering to save the cost of a proper bearing, about a cent for the manufacturer. Yes, I agree. re: kgg's As a side note what was the approximate cost of the machine Total Cost - $2700 CA included -- machine, table, motor, light, 3 topstitch feet, 2 zipper feet, one pair of scissors, 2 spools of thread and a few tools plus replacement bracket extra $30.00 plus stitch guide extra $20.00 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted January 23, 2020 That is good price info for anyone looking to purchase a 1341/341 class clone gives a nice comparison. To break the price down it would have been about $2350 CA plus 13 percent tax. Don't you just love taxes. So for our US people on the list it would be about $1790 US. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted January 23, 2020 7 minutes ago, pattysoup said: plus stitch guide extra $20.00 I didn't see a guide in the photos what style? If possible a picture would be nice. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pattysoup Report post Posted January 23, 2020 Hi dikman re: Can't help wondering about the competency of the dealer who set that up........ Not incompetent. Maybe a little laziness which we are all guilty of Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pattysoup Report post Posted January 23, 2020 hi kgg re: I didn't see a guide in the photos what style? If possible a picture would be nice. Will post pic. re: price did not include shipping - smart motor - needle position - laser guide Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted January 23, 2020 From the nameplate the machine is from Japan not China. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pattysoup Report post Posted January 23, 2020 hi kgg re: From the nameplate, the machine is from Japan, not China When I arrived at the dealers the machine was assembled and after testing was boxed. I clearly saw made in china on that box. Was that the original box? A few weeks ago I spoke to another dealer who told me all Juki machines are now made in China? Very confusing. Initially, all of my information came from utube and I was being utubed into buying a Sailrite. Really well presented but something just did not add up so I googled pros and cons Sailrite and my search result was leatherworker.net. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bert51 Report post Posted January 23, 2020 I don't think the dealer set this machine very well, I would hope all you would have to do is plug it in, sit down and start sew with very little adjusting of the thread. I would think they should have been more competent then what they appear to have been. Bert. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
