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Consww 228 R 11 Post Bed?

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I've run across a very  nice looking Consew 228 R 11 Post Bed machine.  That said, I know enough to be dangerous when considering a new machine.  My wife makes handbags of various kinds, and got her a new Juki 1541S a few weeks ago, super machine.  The subject post bed machine is equipped with the servo motor and the T-leg table, no speed reducer.  Did a bit of looking and found out that it is a roller feed machine.  Would this be a good addition to her workshop or would a cylinder arm machine be better.  Is the Consew 228 xxxx a good machine or is this worth considering?  Probably could get it for $1200 or a bit less...what do you all think?

Steve

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Maybe these videos of the Consew 228R-11 in action will help you decide.

 

 

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Wiz, thank you for those informative videos.  Are there any "land mines" with this machine that one should be aware of?  Is 1200 a good price ?    I truly do not know..

Thank you,

Steve

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6 hours ago, Bmwmoa67707 said:

Wiz, thank you for those informative videos.  Are there any "land mines" with this machine that one should be aware of?  Is 1200 a good price ?    I truly do not know..

Thank you,

Steve

Not landmines, but practical limitations. This machine is not meant for heavy thread or thick work. Most people buying this machine are detailing items that are under 1/8 inch thick and soft temper, using bonded thread sizes 33 through 69. It possibly can sew thicker and use #138 thread, but the roller foot only holds down the left side. A #22 needle loaded with #138 thread will probably lift the leather up as it tries to come out with the lockstitch knot. This leads to skipped stitches and ruined projects. Practically, if sewing leather, I wouldn't recommend using thread larger than #92, with a #19 leather point needle, into about 8-9 ounces or so. If sewing cloth or man-made materials, it can handle about 1/4 inch, with #92 thread.

The machine uses G size bobbins and System 134 needles. Here is the Consew product page for the 228R-11-1.

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Wiz, thank you for all your insights on the machine.  We went and checked it out, Carolyn sewed on it, it will work very nicely on the leather thicknesses that she is making handbags and purses.  The machine is 4 years old and the sellers purchased it new, only has about 3 months use on it. Very clean and slick machine.  Almost cannot tell it from new.    The standard thread she uses is 69 in her bag making.  The lady who had this machine has another just like it, but with a SR-2 speed reducer on it.  She had this machine as a back up, and decided that she did not need a back up machine.  This one I will have to add the speed reducer to it.  That will add about $165 or so to the investment, so I think we're still ok.   I think this machine will allow her to do some 3 dimensional work that she can't do on the flatbed, or it will make some of the awkward work she's done on the flatbed a piece of cake....

Thanks again,

Steve

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I'm glad to have helped you make this choice. I love my Singer 168 post machine.

I got a box style reducer for my post machine. The box bolts to the table and the motor bolts to the bottom of the box. this keeps the long belt in about the same position as the original, allowing you to tilt the head back for servicing. Another machine of mine has a 3:1 stand-alone 3 pulley reducer bolted under the table, along side of the belt cutout. The belt from that reducer is more or less directly inline with the head and has to be loosened to tilt the head. It also changes the position of the bobbin winder. Consider the box type reducer. Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines sells them.

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Wiz, looked at Toledo website did not find any link to the box type speed reducer.  Approx what do they cost and do they end up with the same reduction as the 9" pulley type?

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Wiz, thank you for your advice on the box type speed reducer.  Ordered one from Ed at Indianapolis yesterday, Ed is a very interested in getting his customers fixed up in the right way.  

Steve

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Wiz, took your advice and got a box type speed reducer for the Consew 228 R11.  It arrived today, and I got it installed this afternoon, 3 trips to O'Reilly's to get the correct length belt...agh.....had to lower the rear brace on the T-leg table frame all the way down to clear the servo motor, but it worked out slick!  Very glad you put me on to this box type speed reducer instead of the pulley type.....lots better!  

 This is a made in Japan Consew machine, and apparently Seiko manufactured them for Consew?  Are the Japanese mfg machines are better made than the Chinese made ones?  I think this machine is going to be a good one, it is 3 1/2 years old and only got used for 3 months, according to the seller.  I believe the reason they sold it was that it did not have a speed reducer on it, and their other post machine did have one on it.  You almost cannot tell this is a used machine....should work out good for my wife making leather handbags..

Thanks again for your wisdom and advice!

Steve

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4 hours ago, Bmwmoa67707 said:

3 trips to O'Reilly's to get the correct length belt.

I wasn't aware that O'Reilly's carried type 3L, 3/8" sewing machine belts. Or, did you buy an automotive 4L, 1/2" belt? This would be a mistake because that size won't fit inside the pulleys properly leading to premature slippage and wear of the belt and the bearings on the motor and reducer.

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Wiz, it is a 3/8" belt, but it is an automotive belt.....it is not as "soft" as the other belt that came with the machine.  It does fit down in the pulleys as it should, but it could be a bit stiff for this application.  I will look for a proper belt as you recommend.

Again thank you for looking out for me.

Steve

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Wiz, another question....what is a type 3L belt?   From you question about the 4L 1/2"  I am tempted to think that belt width might be measured in 1/8" increments, therefore a 3L would be a 3/8" width and a 4L would be  4/8" (1/2")?  Does the "L" mean that it is a "lug" belt?  Also I would guess that a sewing machine belt might be somewhat softer and more flexible than the automotive belt?   Another question while on belts.....how much tension so as not to over wear bearings etc.? 

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4 hours ago, Bmwmoa67707 said:

Wiz, another question....what is a type 3L belt?   From you question about the 4L 1/2"  I am tempted to think that belt width might be measured in 1/8" increments, therefore a 3L would be a 3/8" width and a 4L would be  4/8" (1/2")?  Does the "L" mean that it is a "lug" belt?  Also I would guess that a sewing machine belt might be somewhat softer and more flexible than the automotive belt?   Another question while on belts.....how much tension so as not to over wear bearings etc.? 

2L, 3L, 4L, and 5L prefix – The “L” stands for light duty, and is designed for use with fractional horsepower motors. Meaning less than 1 HP. “L” style belts are often designated as light duty industrial, or lawn & garden. These are all called "V belts" because their taper resembles a V shape.

You are correct that these belts vary in 1/8" increments in the USA. Type 3L = 3/8" across the top. The entire profile is different from automotive belts that are 1/2 inch across the top.Now that you know the best lengths, you can order proper belts from one of our dealers.

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I'm here for the same question about the roller pressure. It's leaving wheel marks on my leather patches when applying on hats. I know there MUST be a way to adjust this, but I have no idea how. I've looked for days. I have a Consew 228r-11-1. A client brought me a hat that has absolutely no trace of roller or walking feet marks. Now they want more made without the indention. 

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Reduce the foot pressure and / or use a roller foot with smooth surface or rubber layer on the wheel

Not sure if this one fits your machine https://www.ebay.com/itm/142979318355

Not sure how your machine is set up machine but this would be an adapter for the above roller  https://www.ebay.com/itm/145397360986

If your machine is set up with the flip aside roller foot already then there is also an optional adapter for using plain industrial presser feet (f.I. with a Teflon sole) instead of the roller foot 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143603134209

with installed foot:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165883555629

If you have a 1 row needle plate and feed dog then this set could be helpful when using plain industrial feet: https://www.ebay.com/itm/143603162021

Edited by Constabulary

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