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kschmadeka

Shoe Patcher Machine Tips

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I need a machine that will sew straight down a channel that's about 3/4" wide.  I assume I need a shoe patcher machine but the only one I've seen in person so far was an inch wide at the end at least.  It has to sew through two layers of 6-7 oz leather and preferably with a good heavy thread.  Any suggestions for machines I should look at, or alternatives?

KCH_Pouch_01.JPG

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When I have to sew jobs like that I spread out the leather to force it to fit over the arm of my small bobbin 29k71 patcher. If necessary, wet the pouch in warm water to soften the sides.

The only alternative would be to prepunch the holes and hand sew it with an Awl for All, or a Speedy Stitcher.

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The narrowest arm tip I know of has the Dürkopp 18 patcher but they are out of production for decades and the machine and spare parts are hard to find - especially in the US.

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Would a Blake insole stitcher fit? Your local shoemenders may be able to help. How are you currently sewing them?

I'd rivet it myself, using single cap rivets and a 3/4" bar of steel as an anvil.

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On 2/18/2020 at 8:21 PM, Wizcrafts said:

When I have to sew jobs like that I spread out the leather to force it to fit over the arm of my small bobbin 29k71 patcher. If necessary, wet the pouch in warm water to soften the sides.

The only alternative would be to prepunch the holes and hand sew it with an Awl for All, or a Speedy Stitcher.

Thanks, that could be a solution if I can find the right machine for it.  I might be making a lot of these so sewing by hand isn't really an option.  

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13 hours ago, Matt S said:

Would a Blake insole stitcher fit? Your local shoemenders may be able to help. How are you currently sewing them?
I'd rivet it myself, using single cap rivets and a 3/4" bar of steel as an anvil.

I'll try asking in shoe repair shops and see what they have to show me.  I did this prototype by hand but won't be doing that for production.  Riveting is on the table too if I don't find a machine solution first. 

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7 hours ago, kschmadeka said:

I'll try asking in shoe repair shops and see what they have to show me.  I did this prototype by hand but won't be doing that for production.  Riveting is on the table too if I don't find a machine solution first. 

All you are going to find in shoe repair shops are standard patchers, like the Singer 29 and Adler 30 models. They still have a minimum of 1" width at the nose. That width is needed to hold the shuttle assembly that contains the tiny bobbin in small bobbin patch machines.

The only way you are going to find a sewing machine with a narrower arm would be a chain stitch machine and those are mostly post machines. A post machine can't sew lengthwise along the sides of closed pouches. There is one exception: The Alligator by Puritan Industries, which sews up the arm with a chain stitch. Last time I saw a price for a new one it was about $13,000.

I would be riveting them over a steel bar, as my esteemed colleague also stated. I make phone cases and rivet along the sides. Rivets come in a variety of sizes, colors and even textures.

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Another + for the riveting. That is going to be a tricky thing to sew and will be fiddly to do. If you're going to be "mass-producing" them you want it to be simple and quick.

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Why not wet mould it with a welt 

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Actually, an established cobbler should(might) have a Landis or McKay insole stitcher BUT.... In most cases it will probably be a chainstitch rather than a lockstitch (insoles need "stretch" a bit, chainstitch allows this, lockstitch inhibits.  There is, I believe, a Landis insole stitcher that is lockstitch but not as common as McKay style.  Chainstitcher probably wouldn't work in your project as the "loops" are your top stitch, inline stitches will be inside your case. Its a single needle(awl), single thread machine. The horn on my McKay is approximately 1/2-5/8" wide. Thread is usually linen (black or white) but 403wt poly might work for short runs.

 

Edited by Ole South

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