Rough Out Saddle

[rktaylor]

I am curious about how you oil a rough out saddle during construction since you don't want to oil the flesh side of the leather. The fenders are straight forward, but what about the seat and skirts? Do you give them a good oiling before gluing? I was thinking about oiling the skirts pretty good after they are blocked and before plugging. Then oil the seat pretty good before gluing it down. Thanks for your thoughts,

Randy

[Cattledude]

I just oil as usual, the roughout will darken of course but it will lighten up after a few days. I don't oil where I need the glue to hold. This is just my method, it may not be right for you... Your actual mileage may vary, void where prohibited by law...!

[rktaylor]

Thanks. I'll take the disclaimer into consideration.

Randy

[EdOdgers]

I'm not sure what you mean when you say "...don't want to oil the flesh side of the leather."  Rough out saddles get oiled in a similar manner as smooth out saddles, including the flesh side of the finished saddle.  If you don't oil a rough out saddle on the flesh side, it will suck up water (rain) like a sponge and possibly loose its shape.  With the exception of the tree-side of the skirts, which I oil before installing on the tree, I oil the entire saddle after assembly.  After initial oiling, I may apply a saddle butter (Ray Holes or Obenauf's) or a heated mixture of bees wax and olive oil.  The latter finish is a bit of extra work but gives a rough out saddle and incredibly weather resistant, durable finish which is great for a working saddle.

[rktaylor]

Thanks. What's your recipe and procedure for bees wax and olive oil?

Randy

Edited March 30, 2020 by rktaylor

[EdOdgers]

I apply the beeswax/oil mixture after the initial oiling of the rough-out saddle.  I don't have specific recipe to give you since I've always made it by eye and feel.  I usually make up a few cups to a quart at a time.  Start with a cup or so of olive oil in a glass or microwave safe plastic container.  You could use a quality neatsfoot oil but never use neatsfoot compound.  Warm in microwave until it just melts the beeswax.  The temp will be too hot to touch (150-175 maybe) but don't overheat.  Break up about a cup of solid beeswax into small chunks of about one cubic inch or so.  Slowly add beeswax, allowing it to melt before adding more.  Keep adding bees wax and reheat, if necessary, until the consistency of syrup.  This part will take experience.  It should solidify when cooled to room temp but remain soft enough to push your finger into it and leave an indentation.  If too hard when solid, reheat and add oil; too mushy, add beeswax.  To apply, reheat and completely liquefy in the microwave then cool a little until you can tolerate to touch it.  Dip a piece of clipped sheepskin into the liquid and start rubbing it on.  It helps if the saddle is in a warm place or in the sun.  Cover small areas at a time, working it into the leather and removing the excess before it cools and solidifies.  Its going to look like a real mess at this time but keep rubbing to even it out and remove any build-up.  You can use a hair dryer to rewarm and work out any spots of build-up.  When finished,  put it in the sun or other warm place (near my wood-stove in the winter) for a day or two and it will even out more. The goal is to have the warm oil/beeswax mixture penetrate 'into' the leather not 'on' the surface.  Reapply every year, more or less depending on use.  The wax will resist evaporation so the leather won't dry out for a longer time than oil alone.  The beeswax helps to shed water and resist mold.  Like other saddle butters, compared to applying straight oil, this mixture helps prevent over-oiling since the leather won't absorb it excessively.  Related note: Over-oiling can soften leather so I'm very careful not to over-oil stirrup leathers, particularly in the vicinity of the buckle holes.

I also use this mixture at room temperature to lube saddle strings and lace.  I simply run the string or lace over the solidified mixture, then rub it in.

Warning, this is not the finish to apply if the client wants a pretty, fuzzy, light colored rough-out. If that's the goal, stick with a lighter application of straight oil and don't put on this mixture or any other saddle butter.  This finish will be darker, slicker and may look a bit blotchier initially but it will be a super durable finish that can take the weather.

I've known other saddle makers to use the oil/beeswax mixture but I've never heard any specifics.  I encourage them to chime in and describe their methods.

[rktaylor]

Thanks. I'm also curious about other methods of anyone wants to share.

Randy

[Josh Ashman]

Hello Randy,

I'm certainly no expert as I'm a novice maker at best, however my process for rough out saddles is to oil the grain side and use Aussie Wax from Fiebings on the flesh side. I put the Aussie Wax on fairly heavy by hand and then set the saddle (or un-assembled parts) out in the sun on a warm day to let it soak in. If the weather doesn't cooperate leaving the saddle near the wood stove with regular turning works as well, but sun is the best. This produces a finish similar to what Ed describes above (This finish will be darker, slicker and may look a bit blotchier initially but it will be a super durable finish that can take the weather.). It was recommended to me by an actual "real" saddle maker and mentor of mine and has worked well on the 3 rough out saddles I've built as well as several rough out saddles that I've worked on for others and countless numbers of tack items.

All the best, Josh

[rktaylor]

Thanks to all. I'll do a couple test pieces as soon as I get a warm day.

Randy