Horsebutt vs Shell Cordovan

[NeilMott]

Hey all.

I recently purchased some Horween chromexcel horsebutt and was wondering what the difference is between horsebutt and shell cordovan.  From what I have read, the shell cordovan comes from the 2nd epidermis layer of the horsebutt and the tanning process is harder and longer than chromexcel.  I assume the shell's tanning process is a veg tan process.  I guess I'm wondering, is the horsebutt that I bought the outside layer of the leather?   I'm planning on making this into watch straps.  Here is the article I read on shell cordovan:

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/cordovan-leather-from-horween/

Thanks for your time,

Neil

[Tugadude]

2 hours ago, NeilMott said:

Hey all.

I recently purchased some Horween chromexcel horsebutt and was wondering what the difference is between horsebutt and shell cordovan.  From what I have read, the shell cordovan comes from the 2nd epidermis layer of the horsebutt and the tanning process is harder and longer than chromexcel.  I assume the shell's tanning process is a veg tan process.  I guess I'm wondering, is the horsebutt that I bought the outside layer of the leather?   I'm planning on making this into watch straps.  Here is the article I read on shell cordovan:

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/cordovan-leather-from-horween/

Thanks for your time,

Neil

This article should help provide some answers.  Some of the characteristics that make shell unique is the lack of any outstanding grain and its ability to be polished to an almost mirror shine.

https://ashlandleather.com/blogs/inside-ashland/horween-genuine-shell-cordovan-vs-chromexcel-what-s-the-difference

[NeilMott]

Thanks for the link.  I like Ashland (they're from near where I live) and the picture there helps, but if this is truly horsebutt and that's where the shell comes from, I'm wondering if this is the top layer?   I've emailed Maverick leather where I got it to see if they know.  Will update when I hear back

Best,
Neil

[Tugadude]

1 hour ago, NeilMott said:

Thanks for the link.  I like Ashland (they're from near where I live) and the picture there helps, but if this is truly horsebutt and that's where the shell comes from, I'm wondering if this is the top layer?   I've emailed Maverick leather where I got it to see if they know.  Will update when I hear back

Best,
Neil

I am assuming the horse butt you are getting includes the outer layer of epidermis and subsequently will have a grain to it that is somewhat apparent.

[NeilMott]

The grain looks pretty tight.  This is the link to the leather:

https://maverickleathercompany.com/product/horsebutt-strips-chromexcel/

[NeilMott]

Maverick sent this link.  Looks like the strips are above where the shells are taken from:

https://maverickleathercompany.com/hide-patterns/

[Tugadude]

Well, that helps a bunch.  I'm sure it is quality leather and will suit your needs quite well.  Since watch straps are quite small, in comparison to wallets and bags, a shell could yield a ton of them.  At some point, you might wish to dive in and try one to see how it compares and whether it is ultimately worth it.  If you've already used shell, disregard.

Springfield Leather was selling some shells for decent prices.  Don't know if they still are, but you could check their site.

Make sure to come back and post some of your finished work.  Would love to see what you come up with.

[NeilMott]

I'll definitely post what I'm able to make with these strips.   I should get them tomorrow...  Finding horween at this price is a steal.  

Update from Maverick about this leather:

The horse butt strips are often referred to as the north of the cordovan cut, as these are the section of the hide that is right next to the shell. Typically the horsefront or shoulder section of the hide is separated from the rear of the hide. The rear contains the strip and the shells. They are both veg tanned together for the first stage of tanning. Then the shells are cut from the strip and further veg tanned, where the strip then goes through its retan tanning process.

The top of the shell is typically shaved off in a shaving process. So I don’t think the top layer of the shell goes to use as it gets shaved down.

[NeilMott]

hey all.

Here's a finished strap I made with the natural Horse leather (with Tiger thread - space grey).  I really like this leather!

Neil

[toxo]

Very nice. I like the subtle colour difference. Has that lighter grey come from the punching?

[NeilMott]

The natural horsebutt leather definitely has some pull-up on it.  So, when I punched the holes the buckle and the stitching it definitely emphasized the pull-up effect.