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JoelM

Wet molding a tool with angled handles

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Hello everyone!

I have come for advice. I have never worked with leather before and started looking into leather craft when I bought a grass shear (The Corona GS 6750) but did not come with a sheath/hostler, making it next to useless for me. 

I have watched a few hours of Youtube videos of folks designing templates and wet forming. I took a crack at drawing a design for a belt hostler that I would like to make for my shears.

 

My question: The shears won't sit flat in the holster due to an angle between the cutting end and the handles. Is there a way I can make a better fit when I wet mold? Also, any tips/tricks for building a belt holster for a tool with this kind of shape would be greatly appreciated. 

 

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if you don't mind the handles sticking out from your body a bit then just make the sheath front stop at the top of the blades leaving the handles exposed. If you dont like the handles protruding make a cross draw style with a cant so the sheath so the sheath can be worn on the left and  the handles turned inward towards your body. Or you can make like this one, found on the net.

grass shear.jpg

Edited by chuck123wapati

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2 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

cross draw style with a cant

I'm not sure if I understand. Do you mean have the handles slightly angled forward towards my navel?

 

edit: I cut a simple design for the top of the hostler that I plan on wet molding. Would something like this work or is would this cause some kind of problem down the road?

 

IMG_20200619_124834.jpg

IMG_20200619_125106.jpg

Edited by JoelM

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38 minutes ago, JoelM said:

I'm not sure if I understand. Do you mean have the handles slightly angled forward towards my navel?

 

edit: I cut a simple design for the top of the hostler that I plan on wet molding. Would something like this work or is would this cause some kind of problem down the road?

 

IMG_20200619_124834.jpg

IMG_20200619_125106.jpg

first question yes that's what I meant lol you can google cross draw knife sheath for examples. Second question - that will work just remember leather wont stretch much so if you intend to have the back of the sheath flat then make sure you have enough leather on the front piece to wrap around and mold like you intend. A good way to mold your front piece is to cut a larger than necessary piece for the front wet it then tack it down to a board using the shears as the mold when it is dry you can trim it to the shape you want. Start at the toe of the sheath and work your way up both sides and around the handle tacking it along the intended stitch line.  Use small brass brads the steel nails will discolor the leather and wrap your shears in plastic wrap to prevent rust. 

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On 6/19/2020 at 3:49 PM, chuck123wapati said:

first question yes that's what I meant lol you can google cross draw knife sheath for examples. Second question - that will work just remember leather wont stretch much so if you intend to have the back of the sheath flat then make sure you have enough leather on the front piece to wrap around and mold like you intend. A good way to mold your front piece is to cut a larger than necessary piece for the front wet it then tack it down to a board using the shears as the mold when it is dry you can trim it to the shape you want. Start at the toe of the sheath and work your way up both sides and around the handle tacking it along the intended stitch line.  Use small brass brads the steel nails will discolor the leather and wrap your shears in plastic wrap to prevent rust. 

Soon I'll be buying everything I'll need for the project. I'll be back before I buy everything to make sure I'm not missing or getting the wrong things.

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Is weight an option? If not, you could build up several layers of leather (it wouldn't be too heavy, probably under a pound total for the whole sheath) behind the handles to make it all sit flat. Then wet form the blade portion as chuck123wapati outlined. Then you could add a strap like the image he posted. It's a optional approach to what has already been discussed.

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2 hours ago, battlemunky said:

Is weight an option? If not, you could build up several layers of leather (it wouldn't be too heavy, probably under a pound total for the whole sheath) behind the handles to make it all sit flat. Then wet form the blade portion as chuck123wapati outlined. Then you could add a strap like the image he posted. It's a optional approach to what has already been discussed.

For this project, weight and comfort is defiantly high on priorities. I cut laws with my father-in-law in South Florida (it's really hot at humid) for about eight hours and I'll have this strapped to my belt for a few hours at a time if not the whole time. I'm aiming for something light and also something that will avoid getting snagged on branches when I use a line trimmer. 

I'm exploring the idea of using a strap that wraps around between the handles and snaps to the body OR a flap that has the contours of the handles so to keep dirt from collecting inside of the wide mouthed holster... Leaving a small opening at the bottom would probably have the same effect as the flap since dirt would fall out the bottom but.... I'm a sucker for over designing things just for the fun of it. lol

 

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4 hours ago, JoelM said:

For this project, weight and comfort is defiantly high on priorities. I cut laws with my father-in-law in South Florida (it's really hot at humid) for about eight hours and I'll have this strapped to my belt for a few hours at a time if not the whole time. I'm aiming for something light and also something that will avoid getting snagged on branches when I use a line trimmer. 

I'm exploring the idea of using a strap that wraps around between the handles and snaps to the body OR a flap that has the contours of the handles so to keep dirt from collecting inside of the wide mouthed holster... Leaving a small opening at the bottom would probably have the same effect as the flap since dirt would fall out the bottom but.... I'm a sucker for over designing things just for the fun of it. lol

 

For weight, you could probably get some kydex and make a snap in piece and mate that with a dangler type set up made from leather. Especially if the leather gets soaked with sweat or the sporadic rain shower you'd only be dealing with the leather dangler rig and not the whole sheath. Just spit balling. Whatever you end up doing, please post pics.

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28 minutes ago, battlemunky said:

For weight, you could probably get some kydex and make a snap in piece and mate that with a dangler type set up made from leather.

Didn't know Kydex existed. Looks interesting but for this project I think I'm going to stick to leather since I have a few hours of research and a few more of day dreaming of this project. haha

 

Thanks for the share, Kydex might be a good fit for a machete sheath with a leather strap or something like that.

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What weight would be good for this project? I was thinking 6-7 oz leather, the Weaver Leather Supply has a belly strip for 20 bucks.

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6-7 would be fine but belly stretches a bit so keep that in mind. It should harden up pretty good after wet molding but keep it in mind. You'll definitely want a retaining strap to keep from losing your shears. 

Yeah, kydex is cool stuff but it has it's downside too. Being in FL, it easily gets hot enough in direct sun, especially in a car or truck box, to heat it up to where it'll lose it's retention and shape...I didn't even think of that until just now.

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I think you're over thinking it. No need to wet mould.  Surely, Start off with s flat piece followed by a shaped welt to allow the shears to sit on it in the upside down position which will negate the handles sticking out too much. Followed by the top layer. Add a snap strap somewhere and a belt follower on the back. For me the belt follower would have the shears in the slanted position so they weren't digging in my legs.

Edited by toxo

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For one thing; I'd turn the shears over so the handles/grips sit on the back piece, then the blades will not sit too far out.

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Hello everyone!

I finished my project tonight. Let me share the project with you. The images are very compressed in order to get them uploaded on one post that's why the color looks wonky and patchy. 

 

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I received the belly from weaver on Thursday. The first think I did was to cut out the template I had made with cardboard. Then I drew a much thicker version to account for the molding of the handles. I had no idea if it was going to work but I figured I had a whole belly to try again with so just went with my gut feeling.

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I went ahead and wrapped the scissors and started to mold the tool by hand and with a slicker. I didn't staple it down or anything. Just kept molding it and eventually it kept it shape over night.

 

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This is what I ended up with on Friday morning. I wish I would have wrapped the scissors better. Some water got in through the tip and now I have surface rust stains the scissors.

 

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I'm not sure if the reason I got the nipples on my caps is because I hit it too hard or if the setters are cheap. I used Realeather Crafts Snap Setter Kit, 24-Litter, Nickel from Amazon. Would love to hear feed back on this since I prefer nice round caps.

 

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I'm happy that I wet molding the scissors. It's not very pretty but sure holds well!

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This was not how I originally wanted to put the strap but it was getting late and I was excited that the project was coming along and I stitched the two halves together before putting in the straps I wanted. Opps.. Also I didn't let the white glue dry all the way which caused the strap to move while punching the holes. I'm going to lay down some more stitching on this area since this is probably where most wear is going to be at.

 

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Also got a bit too close to the edge on one side.. 

 

Over all I'm happy with my sheath. It's not very good looking but it's mine.

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Forgot the photo of how it wears. Here it is.

final.thumb.jpg.3b677e85967311fc75ff2b48a6979560.jpg

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If you're looking for perfection you have a long way to go but if it does the job and you love it, you have the satisfaction of knowing you made it yourself so well done.

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16 hours ago, JoelM said:

IMG_20200704_232015.thumb.jpg.8ad0d1dd81a62cc8b146b6c8448aa9e5.jpg

I'm not sure if the reason I got the nipples on my caps is because I hit it too hard or if the setters are cheap. I used Realeather Crafts Snap Setter Kit, 24-Litter, Nickel from Amazon. Would love to hear feed back on this since I prefer nice round caps.

What did you use as an anvil to hit against?

You should have used a small round anvil with a dished head. The dished head preserves the curved head of the snap

Also hitting too hard can cause this. A few medium taps is better that one great whack to set the snap rivet

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Great job! Fully fitted and functional!

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Looks really good for your first piece, congrats. Cheap snaps and too much "oomph" got your caps out of round. Next time you can whack less and maintain the dome better but better snaps will help as well although I've deformed good quality snaps too... Resisting the desire to whack the hell out of stuff is a challenge for me after almost a decade.

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