Juki 1341 clutch play

[24602]

I bought a used 1341 and it doesn’t want to stitch consistantly. It be ok for a bit then start tripping the clutch after 2,3,4 stitches. It seems to me there is alot of play in the clutch but I’m rather new to this sort of thing so I’ll pitch it to y’all. Shot a couple short videos to show what is going on. 
 

After watching Uwe’s clutch video it looks to me the clutch is not fully engaging the slot in the shaft. 
 

As always any help is much appreciated!!

michael

[24602]

I spent so time pondering and poking around the levers and discovered the mechanism is sticky. When I reset the clutch it does not go all the way into place on its own. I pushed a little on it and it popped into place. So now the question is: why?  Seems it should fully engage when the clutch reset is done. Oh the joys of learning a new machine. 
 

any thoughts on the ‘sticky’ motion on this type of safety clutch?

michael

Edited July 26, 2020 by 24602

[Constabulary]

Really?  Two 2 second videos? Ask your self - is this sufficient for a technical diagnose from the distance? Even when I look at the videos twice... no way that I could tell a technical disorder from a 2 second video, 2nd video is even blurry.

Quote

it doesn’t want to stitch consistantly

What does it mean? Skipping stitches? Have you checked the needle hook timing? Do you have a manual with timing values?

Have you bought the machine from a dealer - then check with the dealer. You say you are "rather new" so better take it to a proper industrial sewing machine dealer instead of playing with the safety clutch.

[24602]

38 minutes ago, Constabulary said:

Really?  Two 2 second videos? Ask your self - is this sufficient for a technical diagnose from the distance? Even when I look at the videos twice... no way that I could tell a technical disorder from a 2 second video, 2nd video is even blurry.

What does it mean? Skipping stitches? Have you checked the needle hook timing? Do you have a manual with timing values?

Have you bought the machine from a dealer - then check with the dealer. You say you are "rather new" so better take it to a proper industrial sewing machine dealer instead of playing with the safety clutch.

Sorry, yeah, I was trying to upload  the videos directly to LW and kept shrinking thinking I could get small enough to get under the size limit.  When I realized  i needed to utube them i forgot to put the longer version up. 
 

I appreciate the dealer advice, however, one of the perils of living in the rural western states of the USA is the lack of many services (ie. No dealer for many many miles.). So I’m often left with dealing across the many miles without the luxury  of in person assistance.
 

I will certainly contact the dealer i bought from but also am the type to try and fugure things out. 
 

I will shoot another video to show the clutch engagement or lack thereof.

thanks again!

[Transporter]

I have a question as well as a comment. My bio will pretty much show I’m a relative newbie. 
Question: how taunt should the belt be on the Juki 1341 with a servo.

comment: not sure about your clutch problem assuming that’s the clutch your dealing with, but a servo motor ?

[24602]

Here is how inset mine up.
 

The table I ended up with won’t really accommodate the speed reducer underneath. I tightened the belt such that as the machine tips back to the base the belt comes tight. Very much more and it would not settle onto the base. The belt has about a 1/2” deflection in the center. HTH

michael

[24602]

The safety  clutch seems to functuon fine once it gets fully reset.  The issue is that it only half way resets with button and hand wheel which is the condition at the start of this next clip. When the tab is fully engaged it stitches just fine. Sewed nearly an entire shoe with no issue.  Any input on why it requires a screwdriver to complete the reset?
 

 

[Uwe]

Some metal surfaces corrode over time and no longer move smoothly against each other - especially if they don’t move at all for long periods of time. Sometimes oil evaporates and leaves behind a hard varnish that acts like glue.

I’ve encountered several clutches that were complete ceased up and wouldn’t release no matter how much force I applied. It took several oilings over a day or two to get things moving again. Heating things up with a hair dryer also helps if dried oil varnish instead of corrosion is the culprit. “Exercise” the well oiled clutch by purposely making it pop and then re-setting it several times. This will wear down any surface corrosion and get oil in the spaces that need it. Once the clutch pops in and out the way it should, test it once a month or so to make sure it actually still works.

[24602]

4 minutes ago, Uwe said:

Some metal surfaces corrode over time and no longer move smoothly against each other - especially if they don’t move at all for long periods of time. Sometimes oil evaporates and leaves behind a hard varnish that acts like glue.

I’ve encountered several clutches that were complete ceased up and wouldn’t release no matter how much force I applied. It took several oilings over a day or two to get things moving again. Heating things up with a hair dryer also helps if dried oil varnish instead of corrosion is the culprit. “Exercise” the well oiled clutch by purposely making it pop and then re-setting it several times. This will wear down any surface corrosion and get oil in the spaces that need it. Once the clutch pops in and out the way it should, test it once a month or so to make sure it actually still works.

Is it acceptable to pop it using the button and hand wheel?

[Uwe]

On my Juki LS-341 that button actually does work for both re-setting and popping (on many machines that button only works for resetting, not for popping.) The Juki LS-1341 may have a different mechanism. 

Using the hand wheel to pop the clutch puts stress on the belt, which may be a problem if the belt is not in good condition. 

You can also use a screwdriver to pop and reset the clutch, similar to what you showed in your last video.

I made a short video to show how I use a screw driver to pop and reset the clutch. This technique might be useful in certain situations. 

 

Edited July 27, 2020 by Uwe

[24602]

Thanks again. I’ll keep working on it. I cycled 15-20 times today. Should have oil in all the spaces so we’ll see in the coming days.  
 

BTW the belt on your 341 is much wider than the one on my 1341. Normal?

3 hours ago, Uwe said:

On my Juki LS-341 that button actually does work for both re-setting and popping (on many machines that button only works for resetting, not for popping.) The Juki LS-1341 may have a different mechanism. 

Using the hand wheel to pop the clutch puts stress on the belt, which may be a problem if the belt is not in good condition. 

You can also use a screwdriver to pop and reset the clutch, similar to what you showed in your last video.

I made a short video to show how I use a screw driver to pop and reset the clutch. This technique might be useful in certain situations.