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Can I do this on a cylinder machine ???

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Here is one of may bags. What I would like to do is use a machine instead of hand stitching since my fingers are shot.

Looking at cylinder machine but don't know if I can get the stitch close enough to the inside edge to look right on the end cap piece(hope that makes sense) .Totally new at machine stuff so if it's a dumb question bare with me ... 

The cylinder would be placed in side the end cap from the outside(lol) to stitch to the bag...

Thanks 

 

bag e.PNG

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I've sewn end caps on dice cups using a shoe patcher. They usually allow you to get close to 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge to the needle. There is no need for an edge guide as long as your edge is even (e.g., sanded and slicked outer edge). The nose of the cylinder arm will stop the shaped item from going any farther in.

I recommend a large bobbin model so you can use #138 or #207 thread, depending on the total thickness to be sewn. Most shoe patchers can sew between 1/4 and 5/16 inch compressed leather.

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53 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

I've sewn end caps on dice cups using a shoe patcher. They usually allow you to get close to 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge to the needle. There is no need for an edge guide as long as your edge is even (e.g., sanded and slicked outer edge). The nose of the cylinder arm will stop the shaped item from going any farther in.

I recommend a large bobbin model so you can use #138 or #207 thread, depending on the total thickness to be sewn. Most shoe patchers can sew between 1/4 and 5/16 inch compressed leather.

Thanks ! Much appreciated !! 

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Many common cylinder arm machines have a larger distance from the end of the cylinder arm cap to the needle than you might desire for this job. You're right, it's not a frequently quoted specification, but one that many leatherworkers would like to know. Often the distance is around 6mm (1/4") or more, especially on walking foot machines. Certain models and subclasses have been built and modified to reduce this but they aren't very common and usually have a short stitch length.

I've got around it sewing the bottoms onto cups etc. using a regular cylinder arm machine by making the bottom a little deeper to accommodate but I don't think that that's a great solution. I think that Wiz' suggestion of a patcher is an excellent one.

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On 9/13/2020 at 4:05 PM, Matt S said:

Many common cylinder arm machines have a larger distance from the end of the cylinder arm cap to the needle than you might desire for this job. You're right, it's not a frequently quoted specification, but one that many leatherworkers would like to know. Often the distance is around 6mm (1/4") or more, especially on walking foot machines. Certain models and subclasses have been built and modified to reduce this but they aren't very common and usually have a short stitch length.

I've got around it sewing the bottoms onto cups etc. using a regular cylinder arm machine by making the bottom a little deeper to accommodate but I don't think that that's a great solution. I think that Wiz' suggestion of a patcher is an excellent one.

Thanks !!

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Closest machine for the job that I can think of would be the Techsew 2600- https://www.techsew.com/us/techsew-2600-narrow-cylinder-leather-industrial-sewing-machine.html

That would get you about 7mm in from the edge and thread up to 138. Some bigger diameter cylinders will get close as well with some modifications but I like the small diameter for other bags and stuff myself. On the end I decided to go with an end cap to fill the hole as shown in the following pictures. This is easier to do if you have a 3d printer as you can just print the diameter and depth of cap you want to cover instead of sanding down a eva rubber as I did in these pictures.

This one is the finished bag

DSC01361_resize.JPG

Looking inside and note the gusset end position

DSC01333 (1)_resize.JPG

The stitch on the outside goes into the lining only and a leather filler cap is glued and pushed into the gap first

DSC06621.jpg

The end cap is made with design stitched on then attached to a eva foam to fit firmly into place. This piece was the fake croc test piece.

DSC06624.jpg

This shows the back of the plug ready to glue up and push into place.

DSC06623.jpg

All the thread in this case is 138 (20M)

Note: I don't believe a shoe patcher will give you the quality of stitching that you would want with this type of job myself.

If you do go with the Techsew make sure it is the type with the oscillating dog foot and not one set up for binding.

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1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

Closest machine for the job that I can think of would be the Techsew 2600- https://www.techsew.com/us/techsew-2600-narrow-cylinder-leather-industrial-sewing-machine.html

That would get you about 7mm in from the edge and thread up to 138. Some bigger diameter cylinders will get close as well with some modifications but I like the small diameter for other bags and stuff myself. On the end I decided to go with an end cap to fill the hole as shown in the following pictures. This is easier to do if you have a 3d printer as you can just print the diameter and depth of cap you want to cover instead of sanding down a eva rubber as I did in these pictures.

This one is the finished bag

DSC01361_resize.JPG

Looking inside and note the gusset end position

DSC01333 (1)_resize.JPG

The stitch on the outside goes into the lining only and a leather filler cap is glued and pushed into the gap first

DSC06621.jpg

The end cap is made with design stitched on then attached to a eva foam to fit firmly into place. This piece was the fake croc test piece.

DSC06624.jpg

This shows the back of the plug ready to glue up and push into place.

DSC06623.jpg

All the thread in this case is 138 (20M)

Note: I don't believe a shoe patcher will give you the quality of stitching that you would want with this type of job myself.

If you do go with the Techsew make sure it is the type with the oscillating dog foot and not one set up for binding.

Awesome man !

 

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