ostrich This Bird Doesn't Fly: Learning to work with Ostrich

[YinTx]

Version 4 of the case design.  I think a bit oversized, very difficult to stitch together, particularly the gusset, which took nearly 6 hours.  Of the 5 designs I prototyped, this is the one I liked the most.  

I am certainly open to constructive criticism, particularly on construction techniques, as the next one is to be made out of more expensive glazed Alligator.

YinTx

 

 

 

A couple more showing the inside, etc.

[RockyAussie]

17 minutes ago, YinTx said:

I am certainly open to constructive criticism, particularly on construction techniques, as the next one is to be made out of more expensive glazed Alligator.

Looks like you are getting better at it mate. To offer any constructive criticism on the construction techniques I think we would have to see how you made it or know what stiffener and padding types and thicknesses and the cut out design of them. You may need a heaver stiffener support at the front flap edge if you want to keep using that type of snap fastener but I would think about going to a spring clip type or perhaps small magnets. As to the gusset stitching method I will add that most makers will fake stitch the outer piece and attach it at the tops only. If sanded and glued and hammered down onto a purpose made block it will look better and never come apart if you do it right. The lid flap would be stitched together though. Doing the above using your current method in glazed alligator would be very difficult and the skiving will really come into play. Look for the smaller scale stuff between and above the back legs area if you can or up into the head chin area. If you don't mind the scales going diagonally you will find that it behaves better when it folds on the edges as you tend to not get the furrows in the scale lining up on your folded edge so much. Also the lid flap will not be as likely to have kinks show up when it is down.

[YinTx]

1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

we would have to see how you made it

@RockyAussie, thanks so much for the info.  Here is the design sketch I came up with.  Lots of parts and pieces for such a little thing.  I think twelve, not including snaps.  I ended up using bag stiffener, about 1/16 inch thick, for the front and lower back pieces.  Pellon (1/16")  on the back and outer gusset piece, the inner lining and other bits were lined with fabric only to give me something to work up on to maintain dimensions.  I had challenges at the transition between the lid flap and the body trying to not show any raw edges, which seems near to impossible since I have never seen it done.

This is the form I made to shape it on.

And this hapless fellow is slated to become fashion articles, so I can cut it in any direction needed.  On the black and pink bag, I did not like the scales sticking up when the flap is closed, but I seem to have been the only one that noticed.  I worried that cutting diagonally would be aesthetically unpleasing.    Does no one notice that either?  I had originally thought to use the tail, but if I read right, that may not be such a bright idea.

YinTx

[RockyAussie]

The patterning does not look too bad. The skin will need some taming as it appears to be traditional tanning/glazing and may be heavy on the veg tanning going on the under colour I see. With this type of skin you need to quite a few preparation steps as follows - Cut it out so that the it is about 1/4 bigger all around than you finished size. When you cut it out you will see that the skin relaxes and your straight cut lines will be all bowed and not much like your pattern. Next recut the skin to straighten up a bit but still leave it 1/8" oversize around the edges. Now you will need to skive around those edges at least 1/2" in but no thinner than .5mm at the outer edge or you will get holes showing up in all the valleys. (sportif diagonal is way easierfor this part) . Next is  to cut some open weave cotton drill about 3/8" smaller than your your outside pattern pieces all around and then fully glue it onto the flesh side of the skin and follow this by covering the top side with some glad wrap and then I use pieces of Masonite smooth side down to rest on top. I then put some weight on top to set overnight. Do not overweight it or you will have the scales end up sitting down too flat and it does not look so good. This process controls how the croc/gator skin bends and folds and stops it from having localised popped out bits on the finished article.

The tail section may be good if you can slip the pattern up on one side next to the clacker hole. If not big enough the lid fold could be pretty bad not to mention folding the edges on those round lid corners etc.

Could you give me some dimensions to work with and I will draw up a pattern and might make up one along with you if you like. Alternatively I have quite a few bag orders to start on in the next week or 2 and I could picture some of the relevant parts as I go.

[YinTx]

15 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Could you give me some dimensions to work with and I will draw up a pattern and might make up one along with you if you like. Alternatively I have quite a few bag orders to start on in the next week or 2 and I could picture some of the relevant parts as I go.

Thanks for the detailed explanation on cutting into the hide.  This will definitely save me some heartache and heartburn!

I will take you up on your offer.  As mentioned, my dimensions were too large, so I have to go back to the drawing board.  Also, everything is all of a suddenly going slower on account of several stitches in my right hand, so bear with me.  I'll have to make a new form block as well for the new size.

YinTx

[RockyAussie]

5 hours ago, YinTx said:

Thanks for the detailed explanation on cutting into the hide.  This will definitely save me some heartache and heartburn!

I will take you up on your offer.  As mentioned, my dimensions were too large, so I have to go back to the drawing board.  Also, everything is all of a suddenly going slower on account of several stitches in my right hand, so bear with me.  I'll have to make a new form block as well for the new size.

YinTx

No problem friend. I forgot to mention that if that skin is a stiff as I suspect then another thing I do at times before any fabric attachment is sand with very rough sandpaper the flesh side in order to break the tension in it down. DO NOT sand for long in any one area as the heat generated negates the purpose because it sets it back stiff otherwise. Also make sure to hold the skin out flat as you go to not sand into the valleys too much. How are you going with your skiver now days? If you are not very confident it may be better to think about just cutting and edging the edges. Cut some thin strip along the tail edge and give it a go before deciding on your new pattern.

[YinTx]

Sorry for the delay, my laptop decided to go kaputz, doing this on a borrowed computer.  Skiver and I have a tumultuous relationship at best.  I have been able to skive with it, but did have difficulty when I tried it on gator.  I'll try it with the sanding on the sides I want to skive.  The gator I have is a pretty level 2 oz. I'll send you the new dimensions I've come up with.

Also, stitches are out, on a positive note!

YinTx

[YinTx]

Scratch that, can't send a message apparently on this computer. My block form dimensions are 4 1/8“ x 2 1/2" x 1".

YinTx

[RockyAussie]

Got it, will get into it on the block and pattern. tomorrow.