Thread Controller Disc Adjustment - Singer 111 / Consew 226

[RWL2]

Is there a procedure for adjusting the rotation of the thread controller discs on the Consew 225/226 (similar to Singer class 111 machines).  I've rotated mine pretty far counterclockwise just for convenience in getting the thread past the fork in the control discs when threading the machine. A related question - what's the purpose of providing a rotation adjustment of the thread control discs?  I can't find this mentioned in any of the manuals I've gathered on this type of machine.  Setting the check spring I understand - the spring touches the stop when the eye of the needle gets to the material being sewn - but what about the thread controller discs?

An aside - the adjustment screw for the controller discs is a special size 3/32" x 80 threads per inch.  Mine was stripped.  The diameter of a #3 machine screw is just slightly larger than this.  I retapped the hole in mine for a 3-48 screw, which works just fine.  This size machine screw is readily available at a hardware store if I should ever lose the one I installed.  I chose 3-48 rather than 3-56 because I had screws of that size and a tap available.

[MtlBiker]

I'm just a novice, but I'm a bit confused by what you are asking.  I have a Consew RB206 myself, and the tension discs have (at least the top one does) an adjusting knob.  That's for setting the thread tension.  Clockwise increases the tension and counter clockwise decreases it.  As far as I know, you should never be rotating it "...pretty far counterclockwise just for convenience in getting the thread past..."  If you do that, do you then tighten it back up to set the thread tension?  If so, doesn't the thread then get caught between the discs giving you far too great a tension? 

I have no trouble threading my machine without totally reducing the pressure of the discs.  As a  matter of fact, I made a mistake early on (novice, remember?) by threading the machine while I was activating the knee lifter.  That had the effect of opening up the space between the discs, so when I released the knee lifter the thread was pinched way too strongly between the discs.  And it took me  a long time to figure out why I couldn't then get the thread tension set correctly.

I hope this is of some help to you.

 

[RWL2]

The thread control discs are the lower silver colored disks and have a set screw at the top and an arc of adjustment.  My question deals with where on the arc to set them and why.  It's sewing as pictured above, but inquiring minds want to know.  Actually, because the original screw was stripped, I had no screw there and despite the discs rotating back and forth somewhat with the needle stroke, it still continued to sew.  This is a machine I had to completely disassemble and reassemble because of rust and varnished oil locking virtually all moving parts together.  There are several posts on this machine in the forum, leaving behind a trail of informational bread crumbs for anyone else who has to completely rebuild a machine.

[Pintodeluxe]

I've heard people say it can have an effect on loop size at the hook/needle intersection.  I've never confirmed that info.  I always set mine in the center of the slot, and have never had a problem that couldn't be sorted with other adjustments.  Someone here will know the answer.  

Edited November 25, 2020 by Pintodeluxe

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Good question, I have no idea.  I'll see what I can find, if anything.

[Wizcrafts]

Use the position of the check spring disks to fine tune the amount of tightness the top thread has as it goes around the hook. One direction might cause the thread to snap as it goes around and the other will be quieter. This also is affected by how far the spring travels downward as well as the strength of the spring itself, which is adjustable.

Set the bottom stop so the spring bottoms out just after the needle penetrates the material. This can vary with thickness. Tough materials might need the spring to move down farther than softer materials. The purpose of the stop bracket is to keep the thread taut until it is under the material. Heavy thread needs more spring tension to keep it taut and vice versa. The curved slot position gives or takes away some slack. Incantations may help in setting these three items.

[RWL2]

2 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Use the position of the check spring disks to fine tune the amount of tightness the top thread has as it goes around the hook. One direction might cause the thread to snap as it goes around and the other will be quieter. This also is affected by how far the spring travels downward as well as the strength of the spring itself, which is adjustable.

 

Aha.  I noticed after I'd installed a working set screw for the thread control discs that the thread made a snapping sound as it went around the bobbin case.  This was noticed when cranking the machine by hand and sewing through two pieces of denim; the motor noise would have obscured the sound.  I don't know how the discs were adjusted when I noticed the sound and looked underneath to see what was occurring.  I had chalked it up to something that I just hadn't noticed before.  Something more to play with.  Thanks for that knowledge.

[RWL2]

4 hours ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said:

Good question, I have no idea.  I'll see what I can find, if anything.

I'll be interested in anything you turn up.  Wiz has already shared his knowledge, but I couldn't find anything on line dealing with this.  Thanks.

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, RWL2 said:

Wiz has already shared his knowledge, but I couldn't find anything on line dealing with this.

This knowledge is restricted to mighty Wizards! I follow in the footsteps of Merlin The Tailor.

[DonInReno]

I’ve always adjusted the springy-thing just enough to take up thread slack as the needle just starts to penetrate what you’re sewing.  I didn’t want to say anything until I double checked: