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Help with sharpening my tools

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man, I strop a brand new razor blade. 

I get it so sharp . all I have to do is show it to the leather and it opens up right on the line. YEP..  Old swamp which taught me how to lie. I er I mean strop  LOL

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I simply do not understand all the hub bub about stones and stuff. I make my own blades

and after i have gotten it razor sharp i no longer need a stone unless I frigged up and dropped it. 

or a long period of time has elapsed.  I have an assortment of pretty colored rouge i use on my strop.

And YES, I have used and will use again, A bit of sandpaper on a ornery needle . I am a practical type of man. I have sandpaper laying on the bench for edge touch up so it may or may not get used on whatever I deem necessary at the time I use it.  

Ya'll stop bickering and gather around for a big ole group hug

Image result for group hug smiley

Edited by Frodo

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9 minutes ago, Frodo said:

I simply do not understand all the hub bub about stones and stuff. I make my own blades

and after i have gotten it razor sharp i no longer need a stone unless I frigged up and dropped it. 

or a long period of time has elapsed.  I have an assortment of pretty colored rouge i use on my strop.

And YES, I have used and will use again, A bit of sandpaper on a ornery needle . I am a practical type of man. I have sandpaper laying on the bench for edge touch up so it may or may not get used on whatever I deem necessary at the time I use it.  

Ya'll stop bickering and gather around for a big ole group hug

Image result for group hug smiley

i tell ya i get no respect,  every time i group hug i get stuck with the pit.  

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4 hours ago, mike02130 said:

Some thoughts,

As a user of Japanese woodworking chisels and Japanese high carbon steel kitchen knives I find that Japanese water stones work better than diamond or other stones.  They are softer steels than Hitachi white and blue steels found in better Japanese leather knives.

My Japanese leather knives are both white and blue steel. Both are very hard steel.  I find it difficult to use my Japanese stones without tiring and wearing down the stones and my arms.  I prefer DMT diamond stones from coarse to extra fine then on to a Spyderco ultra fine ceramic stone and strop with white compound.  I find the steel is too hard for the green (same with D2).  

I'm not one of these anal types looking at edges under a super microscope and while I respect others' opinions I usually don't give a damn for I know what I know works for me.

I really see no logical reason to use sandpaper unless one can not afford to buy a sharpening stone.  One can pick up a new two sided India stone for twenty bucks and is easier, more convenient and cheaper than sandpaper.

If one is to state a fact then they ought to back that up with some information supporting that assertation.

It disheartens me to see such bickering here.  Has "wokeness" and "cancel-culture" now infiltrated this forum?

Knock it off and let's learn somethings concerning leather work.

 

Thank you for your input here.

I really agree with you that there is no logical reason to use sandpaper. The reason I use it right now is because I started with buying a cheaper King 1000/6000, because I have seen other crafters who seem to get good results from that stone. But for me it just caused trouble. The 1000 side hade to be flattened all the time, the 6000 side clogged up with steel and stopped sharpening very quick, so I never really got any good results (Maybe I used the wrong technique I don't know) but had to use a lot of sandpaper to flatten the stone. So I decided to start using sandpaper until I found a better solution. And the problem is that it seems like it's as many opinions as there are stones out there. But if I could avoid haven to flatten my stones it would be nice. I think I will try your recommendations with the diamond stones and white compound. I'm super happy with the edge I get from up to 2500 grit wet and dry and green chrome oxide. And from what you are writing, I have a feeling that those diamond stones in combination with white compound will work fine for me. 

 

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Use oil on your stone. the oil stops the grit from clogging every thing up

There are different types of stones, some use oil some water i use oil..For me, the oil works best. water just seems messy

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Sorry cant resist

1 hour ago, Frodo said:

man, I strop a brand new razor blade. 

I get it so sharp . all I have to do is show it to the leather and it opens up right on the line. YEP..  Old swamp which taught me how to lie. I er I mean strop  LOL

judging from your pic of your boat race you are are not stropping enough.

JCUK

Edited by jcuk

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20 minutes ago, Danne said:

Thank you for your input here.

I really agree with you that there is no logical reason to use sandpaper. The reason I use it right now is because I started with buying a cheaper King 1000/6000, because I have seen other crafters who seem to get good results from that stone. But for me it just caused trouble. The 1000 side hade to be flattened all the time, the 6000 side clogged up with steel and stopped sharpening very quick, so I never really got any good results (Maybe I used the wrong technique I don't know) but had to use a lot of sandpaper to flatten the stone. So I decided to start using sandpaper until I found a better solution. And the problem is that it seems like it's as many opinions as there are stones out there. But if I could avoid haven to flatten my stones it would be nice. I think I will try your recommendations with the diamond stones and white compound. I'm super happy with the edge I get from up to 2500 grit wet and dry and green chrome oxide. And from what you are writing, I have a feeling that those diamond stones in combination with white compound will work fine for me. 

 

I use "sandpaper" that is not made of sand that is for sanding wood. the "sandpaper" i use is made for metal! I make knives and anyone who does uses a BELT SANDER of some type to form the blade and they use "sandpaper" to finish it as well. The logic i use is very simple get some spray adhesive spray a lil spot near or on your granite slab and stick a piece of 2500 grit "sandpaper" to it then as you work you can strop your tool on this quickly and cleanly and neatly and go on about your  business. Now your reason for buying it is the same as mine its cheap and it works and that is what it  is made for!

Your stones clog because you dont use a liquid , oil or water or beer or whatever to keep the metal shavings in suspension or you don't clean them off and re apply . All that being said as I stated a few posts ago we are a passionate bunch about sharpening, we all have our ways and they all obviously work so then what is the factor that makes all the different techniques work?????? Practice. Pick one  and practice.  

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1 minute ago, chuck123wapati said:

I use "sandpaper" that is not made of sand that is for sanding wood. the "sandpaper" i use is made for metal! I make knives and anyone who does uses a BELT SANDER of some type to form the blade and they use "sandpaper" to finish it as well. The logic i use is very simple get some spray adhesive spray a lil spot near or on your granite slab and stick a piece of 2500 grit "sandpaper" to it then as you work you can strop your tool on this quickly and cleanly and neatly and go on about your  business. Now your reason for buying it is the same as mine its cheap and it works and that is what it  is made for!

Your stones clog because you dont use a liquid , oil or water or beer or whatever to keep the metal shavings in suspension or you don't clean them off and re apply . All that being said as I stated a few posts ago we are a passionate bunch about sharpening, we all have our ways and they all obviously work so then what is the factor that makes all the different techniques work?????? Practice. Pick one  and practice.  

I think we use a similar type of sandpaper then, I buy mine from a shop that sell supplies for painting cars. Spray adhesive sounds like a really good solution. I just wet the sandpaper and it sticks to my granite slab, but after a while it starts to "curl up" so I have to hold it down.

I did use water on the King stone, but for some reason it still clogs up with metal. But at least with that stone it makes no sense for me to use it, because I still have to use a lot of sandpaper to flatten it. So from the sharpening options I have right now (That stone and wet and dry sandpaper) it makes sense for me to use the sandpaper. If I did this professionally and did crafting everyday it wouldn't really make sense to use sandpaper. And I still look for a solution with sharpening stones. And I think a good set of diamond stones could be a good solution for me. Which I also could use to sharpen kitchen knives. 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Danne said:

I think we use a similar type of sandpaper then, I buy mine from a shop that sell supplies for painting cars. Spray adhesive sounds like a really good solution. I just wet the sandpaper and it sticks to my granite slab, but after a while it starts to "curl up" so I have to hold it down.

I did use water on the King stone, but for some reason it still clogs up with metal. But at least with that stone it makes no sense for me to use it, because I still have to use a lot of sandpaper to flatten it. So from the sharpening options I have right now (That stone and wet and dry sandpaper) it makes sense for me to use the sandpaper. If I did this professionally and did crafting everyday it wouldn't really make sense to use sandpaper. And I still look for a solution with sharpening stones. And I think a good set of diamond stones could be a good solution for me. Which I also could use to sharpen kitchen knives. 

 

 

yes silicone carbide wet dry paper i believe is the type i use. Diamond stones are excellent I use them as well  and even carry a small round one for my pocket knives. But beware very hard steels can actually take the diamonds right off your stone. I use oil stones also as that is just what i am used to using, clean them by applying some oil then wipe them down if really bad you may need to oil and sand them to get out the crud. They clog when you start running out of lube and the filings start to look like mud. 

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There are three topics that are best avoided on leather working forums, Sharpening, Oiling, and Gluing! Best to find out what works best for you and use it. There are no right or wrong in these topics, just differing opinions.

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21 hours ago, Bigfoote said:

There are three topics that are best avoided on leather working forums, Sharpening, Oiling, and Gluing! Best to find out what works best for you and use it. There are no right or wrong in these topics, just differing opinions.

I always learn something new when I read the "avoided" topics.  Keep them coming.

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OK, I'll come in and make everyone mad.  I use a Ken Onion Worksharp with the free hand attachment and leather strops for it.  An 18 degree angle seems to do well on the round knives.  20 on the kitchen knives.  I hand sharpened for years.  But I love this little machine.  Most of the best knife makers in the world use belt sanders to build, shape, and sharpen their knives.  Works for me.  

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