Waxed cotton thread. Is it a bad choice?

[Riccardo]

Hi.

After my first works where I used a .53 mm Vinymo MBT thread I decided to try something different. I'm a newbie, try to follow your suggestions but sometime I like to make experiments and learn from my mistakes. I bought a .8 mm waxed cotton thread and I made  my first wallet. 

I didn't use a groover so the stitches protrude out of the leather. Leaving aside the aesthetics my question is: is cotton thread too fragile? Should it be used only for fabric or it can replace linen thread if properly used?

Thanks in advance. Riccardo.

 

 

 

[Tugadude]

Your work looks very nice.  The stitching is very regular in appearance, with a nice slant to it.  But I think that thread is just a bit too big for the project.  I'd like to see you go to a 0.6mm thread.  I think it would present a better look.

There is also what appears to be a ton of wax in-between the thread and the holes.  You might try rubbing that with a cloth to remove the excess.

As far as the thread, you will receive some differing opinions and I respect them all because they are being offered through each person's experience.  Having said that, I don't think it is ever "necessary" to use a stitching groove.  Based on what I've read, that is something more popular in the U.S., but when it comes to the rest of the world, not so much.  And it doesn't seem to reflect negatively elsewhere.  Stories of 100 year old English saddles stitched with quality linen thread and no groove say that they hold up just fine.  And again, I accept that, but part of me also says there has to be some merit to having the thread recessed.  So long as you aren't compromising the overall thickness of the leather, having the stitching below the surface or even close to the surface seems like it would be a benefit.

As far as the type of thread, I've mainly worked with polyester and linen.  I can't really speak to the longevity of cotton.  My guess is it won't hold up as well as a quality linen thread.  

Keep up your excellent work, the stitching really does look very uniform and neat.  I just think the thread is a bit chunky for the wallet.

[Riccardo]

Hi Tugadude, for this work I followed your advice here 

 You told me to use a needle to pierce the corner and it worked very well, I'm happy with it. You suggested angled stitch and I tried it as well. I prefer thinner thread too but the one I used here is produced near my home and the price is ridiculous, it was worth a try. https://laccioteca.it/categoria-prodotti/rocchetti-trecciati/tondi-cerati/cerati/

Yes, there is a ton of wax, I have no saddle soap but I'm a woodworker so I have plenty of beeswax ;-) . I will rub it.

Thank you for your help, it is precious to me

 

 

[mike02130]

I agree with Tugadude, on all things.  Stitch groovers are usually used on western saddle work and the like.  I know people who've said than linen and cotton thread can wear out faster than polyester on a wallet.  So I've heard.  You may want to take a blow dryer and melt that wax on the thread.  Hammer down your stitches.

[Tugadude]

2 hours ago, Riccardo said:

Hi Tugadude, for this work I followed your advice here 

 You told me to use a needle to pierce the corner and it worked very well, I'm happy with it. You suggested angled stitch and I tried it as well. I prefer thinner thread too but the one I used here is produced near my home and the price is ridiculous, it was worth a try. https://laccioteca.it/categoria-prodotti/rocchetti-trecciati/tondi-cerati/cerati/

Yes, there is a ton of wax, I have no saddle soap but I'm a woodworker so I have plenty of beeswax ;-) . I will rub it.

Thank you for your help, it is precious to me

 

 

So glad that I was able to help!  The corners look very nice.