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Getting good straight cuts and issues with stitching.

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I put gaffers tape on the bottom of steel rulers.  It’s thin but has enough texture to keep the ruler from sliding around.  Available on Amazon.  

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5 hours ago, garypl said:

I put gaffers tape on the bottom of steel rulers.  It’s thin but has enough texture to keep the ruler from sliding around.  Available on Amazon.  

Some folk use adhesive abrasive tape.

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7 minutes ago, Rahere said:

Some folk use adhesive abrasive tape.

Only concern I would have using abrasive tape is scratching the leather if you inadvertently move the ruler while it’s on the leather.

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I treated myself to a proper straight edge. It's heavier than a ruler, and doesn't move around as easily. It does cost more, but it's the sort of thing that once you have one you wonder how you managed without it

https://www.maunindustries.com/pliers-tools/steel-straight-edge-metric-500-mm/

There are longer or shorter models, priced accordingly

Veritas & Starrett are probably the most usual makes in the USA, but I expect if you search around there will be others

Edited by zuludog

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Or might it be commercial anti-slip tape of the type that's sold for stairs? I'll look in a hardware shop next chance I get...

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On 5/3/2021 at 11:39 AM, Frodo said:

push THE BLADE. DO NOT BULL THE BLADE

CUTTING HIS ON HANDED AND HOLDING THE CAMERA WA NOT EASY !!!!

CUTTING LEATHER. PUSH, NOT PULL - YouTube

opps. cap lock stuck   

 

On 5/3/2021 at 6:19 PM, Dwight said:

That video and that visual advice was almost as dumb as the music.  

Pull the blade  . .  . you push buttons.

May God bless,

Dwight

I am with Dwight on the use of that knife in that way in that video as for the music i have an open mind to lots of different types of music but even up to this day i still cant get my head round Disco. 

JCUK

 

 

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They told me, a door marked "Push", you push. A door marked "Pull", you pull. Then I came to a door marked "Lift"...

Which works in English, but not in American. I had to spend years in Tibet before I could elevate er

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I just line the underside of my carpenter's square with another, reasonably thin, leather. Flesh side down, since it'll have more static friction that way. Just make sure it isn't some heavily saturated stuff that'll leave dye or oil on your work piece (experience is an excellent teacher).

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On 5/5/2021 at 2:07 PM, jcuk said:

 

I am with Dwight on the use of that knife in that way in that video as for the music i have an open mind to lots of different types of music but even up to this day i still cant get my head round Disco. 

JCUK

 

 

LOL. disco?  

I grew up on military bases.  dad was a 30 year NCO.

So you can imagine his view on long hair.  I had long hair. but we had come to an understanding. 

One day, we puled into a quicky mart /711 type store. Some guy walks out with a spiked purple mohawk, ear, nose, lip earings and wearing lipstick.

I started laughing and my Dad said.  I understand your long hair, I do not like it but I understand it

THAT SHIT..I do not understand...  I was laughing and saying me .  either pop, Me either  

 

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On 5/4/2021 at 1:50 AM, Klara said:

Does anybody know what the non-slip tape is that's stuck to the back of the rulers? Because I also have a problem with cutting along a ruler.

I do however get straight enough cuts by rocking a headknife back and forth along a previously drawn line. I love my head knife, even if it's a bit of work to keep sharp. But keeping knives sharp is ine of life's essential skills (like sewing a button back on or boiling an egg) and I've just seen (once again) during breakfast preparation that even a few half-arsed strokes down a steel (or whatever) make a huge difference. 

 

Non-Slip Tape, 1" x 4' - Weaver Leathercraft (weaverleathersupply.com)

or a google search

 

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Move your fingers along the ruler as you're cutting to follow the blade and make sure you're keeping the ruler firmly pressed down.

Leather tends to flex and slip from under the ruler, even if the ruler has non slip tape or cork underneath.  Keep your fingers pressing down close to the cutter at all times.

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On any thickness less that about 1.4mm (3.5 oz ?) I use a rotary knife. It helps limit any slip-out from under my straight edge 

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On 5/7/2021 at 9:42 AM, Frodo said:

LOL. disco?  

I grew up on military bases.  dad was a 30 year NCO.

So you can imagine his view on long hair.  I had long hair. but we had come to an understanding. 

One day, we puled into a quicky mart /711 type store. Some guy walks out with a spiked purple mohawk, ear, nose, lip earings and wearing lipstick.

I started laughing and my Dad said.  I understand your long hair, I do not like it but I understand it

THAT SHIT..I do not understand...  I was laughing and saying me .  either pop, Me either  

 

Frodo, there's a joke about that, but it's not for this thread. Going to post it in Off Topic... :lol:

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Another facet was touched on earlier, about working with intent. Uncertainty shows in an uneven cut. Another facet applies in working with heavier weight leather, where you'll likely notice the flesh side is very different from the surface, positively stringy. It may be wiser then to cut the surface layers, then come back to the lower rhubarb. There can even be a case for cutting it with scissors!

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6 hours ago, Rahere said:

Another facet was touched on earlier, about working with intent. Uncertainty shows in an uneven cut. Another facet applies in working with heavier weight leather, where you'll likely notice the flesh side is very different from the surface, positively stringy. It may be wiser then to cut the surface layers, then come back to the lower rhubarb. There can even be a case for cutting it with scissors!

Yes, I've gotten to the point that I won't buy leather that doesn't have a pasted backside.

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22 hours ago, sbrownn said:

Yes, I've gotten to the point that I won't buy leather that doesn't have a pasted backside.

I'm not saying there's no use for such, just recognising thicker leathers can have a remarkable difference in structure between sides, which affects the cutting. I'd chamfer the loose stuff more.

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I'd like to chime in here...

I picked up a piece of aluminum bar stock 1/8" x 4" x 96" (Home Depot) and cut it down to 72". It's an inexpensive option, and what I especially like is the sheer weight and mass help keep it in place.

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2 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:

I'd like to chime in here...

I picked up a piece of aluminum bar stock 1/8" x 4" x 96" (Home Depot) and cut it down to 72". It's an inexpensive option, and what I especially like is the sheer weight and mass help keep it in place.

I did almost the same thing, except it was steel, 1 m long, and 30 x 3 mm cross section, or thereabouts (label is in the trash).

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On 5/11/2021 at 7:04 AM, Rahere said:

I'm not saying there's no use for such, just recognising thicker leathers can have a remarkable difference in structure between sides, which affects the cutting. I'd chamfer the loose stuff more.

I have been using Chahin bridle leather from American Leather Direct and with even the heavier weights with a pasted backside there is no "loose stuff" to worry about.  Yes, I do get your point because I have used a lot of different leathers and many do have the "loose" issue even with pasted backsides.  I have not found that to be the case with Chahin bridle leather and that is what I use almost exclusively these days.

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Made two jigs along the way. The first one used a mat cutter and a related  straight edge ruler. The mat cutter head travels on the ruler like a track. Two bolts keep the ruler from sliding around. The cutting blade travels through a groove cut into the board.

I used the cutter handle that came with the ruler at first, then I modified the cutter and made a sliding block that fit the ruler.

My second jig has a 90 degree fence at the top to allow for square cuts.

There are different mat cutters on the market. I believe the cutter traveling on a track is the best way to go. 

IMG_0934_1.jpg

IMG_0944_1.jpg

2019-11-12 09.46.46.jpg

2019-11-12 09.52.26.jpg

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