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MtlBiker

Material for making templates?

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I'm having a hard time figuring out what kind of material to use for making reusable templates. Cardboard, matboard, etc. are just too flimsy and when I'm trying to cut my leather/fabric with a rotary cutter they are too easy to cut. I've tried 1/4" masonite which I cut using a scroll saw and that's much better than cardboard, but it's harder to cut and fairly expensive. The plastic place mats from the dollar store do seem to work better than cardboard but they're not large enough for some of my patterns and I also wish the place mats would be a bit thicker.
Ideally it would be some kind of clear plastic, at least 1/8" thick that would let me see the fabric through it (so I could better utilize the designs on the fabric) but I haven't found anything yet. Plexi / acrylic is even more expensive than the masonite and at least one that I've tried seems to splinter when I cut it.
 
So, what do you suggest as a material for making templates, and where do you get it?
 
Thanks!

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Learn some simple CAD and buy a $200 3D printer and you can make all the PLA or ABS templates you want.  You can learn that kind of CAD in a couple of hours and then the 3D printer does all the work.  

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Buy a fretsaw and use thin 3 ply

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3 hours ago, Zonker1972 said:

use flexible cutting boards

Hey! That's a good idea. I have a roll of clear plastic stuff that I got from Weaver (I think) but it's too thin and curvy. The cutting boards are thick enough to get a good scribe.

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3 hours ago, Zonker1972 said:

use flexible cutting boards

I've often used those cutting boards from a dollar store, but for many of my patterns they are too small.  I'm looking for something that will work for larger patterns.

 

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1 hour ago, sbrownn said:

Learn some simple CAD and buy a $200 3D printer and you can make all the PLA or ABS templates you want.  You can learn that kind of CAD in a couple of hours and then the 3D printer does all the work.  

Really?  A $200 3D printer (I'd love to get one!) is probably limited to even smaller areas than the dollar store cutting boards I've used and those are too small.  But other than that, the cutting boards work really quite well and are super economical.  The biggest cutting board I've found is only about 10" x 15".  I need at least 15" x 15 and hopefully even larger.  When I last looked into 3D printers, I thought they would cost a whole heck of a lot more than that for a model that would produce the size I want.

But... I'm really tempted to get a 3D printer.  Is there anything you suggest or something I should look for or avoid?

 

51 minutes ago, chrisash said:

Buy a fretsaw and use thin 3 ply

I don't need a fretsaw as I have a super scroll saw that works really well.  What kind of "thin 3 ply" are you talking about?  What material?  Thanks!
 

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5 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

material for making templates

The best material I can suggest that you could use basic cutting tools like a saw/ drill /sander would be HDPE (High Density Poly Ethylene) in at least 1/4 ", it cuts just like wood and you can sand the edges like wood. Any smaller then 1/4" thick and you will get warping. It is available in sizes up to 4 ft x 8 ft in various thickness.

 

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23 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

Really?  A $200 3D printer (I'd love to get one!) is probably limited to even smaller areas than the dollar store cutting boards I've used and those are too small.  But other than that, the cutting boards work really quite well and are super economical.  The biggest cutting board I've found is only about 10" x 15".  I need at least 15" x 15 and hopefully even larger.  When I last looked into 3D printers, I thought they would cost a whole heck of a lot more than that for a model that would produce the size I want.

But... I'm really tempted to get a 3D printer.  Is there anything you suggest or something I should look for or avoid?

 

I don't need a fretsaw as I have a super scroll saw that works really well.  What kind of "thin 3 ply" are you talking about?  What material?  Thanks!
 

I don't know what your budget is but you can buy a 12"x12" printer for less than $400.  I have made lots of templates by gluing pieces together to get the size I needed.  The thing I like about using CAD and a 3D printer is that you can make everything exact.  I especially like for all my curves to be tangent and it is easy to make them so in CAD.

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28 minutes ago, sbrownn said:

printer for less than $400

First I have to say I love my 3d printers and put a lot of hours / filament through them. They can do some amazing stuff and are great for inexpensive prototyping / small scale runs. Yes you can purchase Chinese 3d printers for under $400 but i) not everyone can quickly learn or has the want to learn a CAD/ Slicer program irregardless of the 3d printer cost ii) the life expectancy of the inexpensive 3d printers before having a rebuild or replacement is very low when compared to the more expensive reliable 3d printers ( plus $1500) and iii) sometimes it is just simpler and faster to use basic materials and tools for simple items. For me it would be quicker to take a common material like wood or HDPE and some basic carpentry tools to make a flat template as compared to 3d printing the same template.

kgg

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So far I've gotten good results with cardstock. Letter-sized cardstock is cheap and runs through any printer.

The only issue is when your item is larger than 11x8.5", such as slings or bags, in which case you'll have to tinker with your design program to be able to print on several sheets and then cut and put together with tape.

For a more permanent/durable pattern item I use bag stiffener, which I got from Tandy, but I bet any leather supplier carries it.

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I just use HEAVY weight poster board. You are just supposed to TRACE around them, not CUT around them. I have patterns that are 7-8 years old and they hold up just fine.

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I use manila folders - very inexpensive and you can tape them up to make a bigger template.

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I use Marsh Oiled Stencil Board which can be found at art supply stores. It comes in sheets as large as 24"x36", and is very durable.

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12 hours ago, tsunkasapa said:

I just use HEAVY weight poster board. You are just supposed to TRACE around them, not CUT around them. I have patterns that are 7-8 years old and they hold up just fine.

Well, I've used heavy poster board, matboard, etc. and it's fine if as you say, you trace around them and not cut against them.  But... since Covid I've made over 250 3-layer masks (which have been selling very well for me) and using a masonite template and cutting against it with my rotary cutter is SO FAST that I can have the fabric cut out much faster than it takes to trace around and then cut.  A fraction of the time.  And that makes a huge difference when you're doing 10+ at a time.  And I always use cardstock for my initial pattern and only switch to masonite once I've finalized my design and want to produce many of the same.  I guess it all depends on how many of an item you need to make and how quickly.

 

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7 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:

I use Marsh Oiled Stencil Board which can be found at art supply stores. It comes in sheets as large as 24"x36", and is very durable.

I'd never heard of that product before... thanks for mentioning it.  I just did a search, and it's REAL EXPENSIVE (compared to the masonite I'd been using).  Marsh Oil Stencil Board in Canada.  By comparison, I can buy a 4' x 8' sheet of masonite (some suppliers call it hardboard) for only $15.

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I'm not sure about the price, but I had a transparent protection plate to put under my office chair a couple of years back. It was not brittle and I think that might be better for your templates than regular masonite. Here's a link for one that Ikea is selling (it's the Norwegian Ikea page).

https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/kolon-gulvbeskytter-44881100/

It is smaller than a masonite plate, and more expensive, but if it would hold up better I guess it might be worth trying.

Brgds Jonas

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"not everyone can quickly learn or has the want to learn a CAD/ Slicer program irregardless of the 3d printer cost"

I never had a single student that didn't learn how to make a 2D/3D CAD model and turn it into a STL file for 3D printing in one three hour lab period.  If you don't want to learn that's fine, but I would argue that anyone who wants to learn can do it quickly and with a CAD program and slicer software that is free.

 

 

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4 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

I just did a search, and it's REAL EXPENSIVE (compared to the masonite I'd been using).

The price shown in your search is the case price (note the weight... 53 pounds). For the size I mentioned the cost is just under $100 for 104 sheets. I was introduced to this product at a local art supply store where I was able to buy single sheets.

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1 hour ago, LatigoAmigo said:

The price shown in your search is the case price (note the weight... 53 pounds). For the size I mentioned the cost is just under $100 for 104 sheets. I was introduced to this product at a local art supply store where I was able to buy single sheets.

You may be right about the weight indicating that it must be more than one, but it does say "each" and "Package quantity 1".  And the other crazy thing (not that I'm tempted to buy it) is that it says it's restricted for sale in "CA QC" meaning that here in Quebec Canada it's not available.  Weird.

 

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5 hours ago, Mulesaw said:

I'm not sure about the price, but I had a transparent protection plate to put under my office chair a couple of years back. It was not brittle and I think that might be better for your templates than regular masonite. Here's a link for one that Ikea is selling (it's the Norwegian Ikea page).

https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/kolon-gulvbeskytter-44881100/

It is smaller than a masonite plate, and more expensive, but if it would hold up better I guess it might be worth trying.

Brgds Jonas

Great idea!  I found that product on the Canadian (in English instead of Danish) Ikea site.  It looks like it might work.  I hadn't thought of that because all the chair mats I've seen so far have a bumpy (almost like little points) on the bottom to keep the mat from sliding on carpet.  I'll  have to determine whether it's smooth or not but it really might work well.  And it's really not expensive at all.  $40 (Cdn) for a piece about 47" x 40".  More than masonite but reasonable, with the advantage of being see through.  Thank you!

 

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5 hours ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Thanks Sheilajeanne!  The one sold by Ikea seems like a much better deal, and Staples.ca is a lot more expensive.  The Walmart one may or may not have bumps on the bottom to keep it from sliding on the carpet and unfortunately it's only sold online and not in the stores.  So you can't check it out before buying.  And I'm sure there's something wrong with their description of the product also, as the stated "430 x 600 mm" size is only 16.9" x 23.6" and from the photos of the product it sure looks like it's much bigger than that.  You'd have to have a pretty small chair for one of those!

 

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5 hours ago, sbrownn said:

 

"not everyone can quickly learn or has the want to learn a CAD/ Slicer program irregardless of the 3d printer cost"

I never had a single student that didn't learn how to make a 2D/3D CAD model and turn it into a STL file for 3D printing in one three hour lab period.  If you don't want to learn that's fine, but I would argue that anyone who wants to learn can do it quickly and with a CAD program and slicer software that is free.

 

 

I'm sure I can learn the software easily... I'm a heavy Illustrator and PhotoShop user and am comfortable with computers and software.  But I don't want to waste money on a 3D printer that will possibly need replacing in a few months of use, nor can I justify at present the cost of a much more decent printer that will last me a few years.  But I'd really love to have one, and probably will have one in the future.

 

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Mtl. Biker, yup, that's for sure! Never noticed that!  I bet they confused centimeters with millimeters. If you check the U.S. site, you'll likely get the accurate measurements in inches.

Staples prices are pretty outrageous, though they do state what sort of floor or carpet the protectors are for.

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