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StickHer

Noobie with question on cutting

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i bought some scrap leather on amazon and am finally cutting for the first time. ive probably attempted 50 straight line cuts with a ruler/exacto knife today on an self healing mat  (which stinks really bad). For some reason no mater what i try the cut is straight except for the bottom corner . im cutting vertically from top to bottom and and the bottom comer simply isnt stright. The corner stick out further away from the line. if i was to guess the leather is being stretched when cut. any ideas or tips to help with this. Also the leather moves a lot when i attempt to bevel. 

Edited by StickHer

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That happens because you're pulling the leather with the knife when reaching the end. It's kinda "normal" to happen when performing the cutting motion, but it's definitely vexing and leaves you with a crooked line at the end.

A number things you can do:

  1. Leave some leeway, so that your project doesn't end at the crooked end, and you can just trim the crooked tail.
  2. After cutting, leave the ruler in place and trim the protruding tail with a skiving knife.
  3. Start the whole operation by making an incision along the ruler ~1/4" to 1/2" from the end, and then cut from the top as normal: the knife will run into and join the pre-cut portion without pulling the leather.

 

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51 minutes ago, StickHer said:

attempted 50 straight line cuts with a ruler/exacto knife

We all have different approaches, and offer a myriad of advice. What I would add is that over the years I've upgraded from Exacto knives to a "break-point" utility knife. The blade is always sharp and is heavier that the Exacto blade. That helps, especially on heavier leathers. Then I use a straightedge made from a piece of 1/8" aluminum stock from Home Depot, cut down to 48". Then, when I can't make any mistakes, I will use C-clamps to press the straightedge against the leather hide on my bench. With both hands free, I can do a better job of keeping the blade from wandering.

Edited by LatigoAmigo

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xacto blades are to thin and bend with the force it takes to cut the leather also. get a box knife at the least.

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Yes, the leather is being stretched as you come to the end of the cut at the edge of the leather. Various options to prevent this are -

Press down hard on the ruler in the area at the end of the cut to hold the leather more firmly

Make a short cut, say 2" in from the end first; then make the main cut all the way from the other end, so it runs into and joins up with your first short cut

Use a round knife, or a head knife, or a Japanese leather knife. As you get to the end of the cut, say the last inch or two, instead of continuing right off the edge of the leather change from a horizontal cut to a sort of rolling or chopping action so you press down on the leather instead of pulling it along

Use a rotary blade knife, which uses more downward pressure than horizontal

In any case, an Exacto knife is OK for thin leather, say up to about 1,5mm thick, bit for anything thicker use something heavier, like a Stanley/Utility/Box cutter knife; and strop it frequently, even if the blade is new

Have a look at this video. He shows how continuing off the end of the leather stretches it, but a chopping action to finish does not. 

If you watch other videos of people using a round/head/Japanese knife to make various finished items you'll see them using a similar chopping action.  JH Leather's videos show this technique in many of her videos

Edited by zuludog

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You've learned a lesson! Excellent. There is another lesson, cut on the waste side. You can always turn it around and cut back from the far end. 

Another approach would be to be a little less gung-ho, cutting straight through in one swoop, instead cutting a groove and then through. This can be an important skill in tooling, just cutting the surface: that cut will then guide the knife for a clean final cut.

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whichever knife you choose it must be sharp sharp sharp.  I suspect the pulling you're experiencing comes from a blade that could be sharper.

If you use a utility knife use a new blade each project.  If a fixed blade knife, learn to sharpen and hone it. 

Keep the knife at a low angle to the leather to keep the blade in close contact with the leather..

You don't have to cut through the leather on the first pass.  Cutting carefully,  2 or 3 lighter passes with the blade will often give a better result than one heavy-handed cut.  This ain't a demonstration of strength.

Moving around while you're edging also indicates a dull edge.

Edited by TonyV

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i appreciate all the responses , was not expecting this many people to help out. will buy a box cutter soon. i think the leather i got from a scrap bag is extremely thin and the leather is stretchy. i will try those techniques and see if it helps. thanks again

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6 hours ago, StickHer said:

i appreciate all the responses , was not expecting this many people to help out. will buy a box cutter soon. i think the leather i got from a scrap bag is extremely thin and the leather is stretchy. i will try those techniques and see if it helps. thanks again

add to your shopping list a rotary blade knife of 45mm or 60mm diameter. You'll not be sorry. 

I use one on any leather thinner than 1.6mm, or 4 oz. It really reduces that pull-out

 

Fiskars 60mm rotary knife, 01LWs.jpg

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I use a utility knife upon occasion, I've used the same blade for months. I always sharpen the new blades before I ever use them, and keep stropping/sharpening as I use them. They come sharp, but not REALLY sharp. Using a new blade each time is just wasting money. The same goes for Exacto blades too.

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Buy some masking tape.  That is the solution to all leather stretching problems, because paper tape does not appreciably stretch.

Stick the tape to the back of your leather.  Then lay down your straight edge and use whatever blade you prefer, so long as it is sharp.

The masking tape is also useful if you get into tooling or carving leather, as both of those processes distort the shape of the leather.  Having tape on the back keeps this from occurring.

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On 5/17/2021 at 10:20 PM, zuludog said:

Press down hard on the ruler in the area at the end of the cut to hold the leather more firmly

Bingo :)  and the blade must be super duper sharp . The leather does move & flex a bit when cutting, as we all know . 

HS

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This exact problem is explained vey well in Nigel Armitage's book. The thing is that when you cut verically towards you with the hand in front of your body, there comes a point when your elbow has nowhere to go but to the side. The solution is to cut at an angle, giving your elbow space to move. If you need illustrations to understand what I'm talking about - they are in the book (which is easily available, not very expensive, and if selling well will lead to more good books on leatherwork being published). 

Edited by Klara

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ok so here a picture of the leather i think its to thin, what is its purpose and can i make wallets or coasters with it 

also on the back side its "hairy" or "sheds a lot anything to know about this

 

https://imgur.com/a/6epKeXO

 

another problem when i use a wing divider it just pulls and bends the leathers. also ruin the leather in a weird way

 

 

Edited by StickHer

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1 hour ago, StickHer said:

so here a picture of the leather

Links don't always get a good response, so I'm posting your photos. That looks like very soft leather, almost like lambskin. Good for liners (think BDSM cuffs), but not much else.

qTqOSoF-2.jpg

TEHToMO-2.jpg

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or draw-string money bags

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any recommendation's of what and where to buy leather to practice with and start a first project 

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10 minutes ago, StickHer said:

any recommendation's of what and where to buy leather to practice with and start a first project 

Look at the top of the page and visit any of the leather suppliers advertising here. Maverick Leather is one of my favorites, but there are more. If you call any of them, tell them that you are just getting into the craft, and would like some inexpensive hides or any remnants they might have available. Sometimes you can buy bags of scraps from which you can start any number of projects. Good luck.

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7 minutes ago, LatigoAmigo said:

Look at the top of the page and visit any of the leather suppliers advertising here. Maverick Leather is one of my favorites, but there are more. If you call any of them, tell them that you are just getting into the craft, and would like some inexpensive hides or any remnants they might have available. Sometimes you can buy bags of scraps from which you can start any number of projects. Good luck.

thanks for the advice , the scraps i have are from a scrap bag on amazon  is it hit or miss on decent leather ?

Edited by StickHer

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1 hour ago, StickHer said:

. . .  the scraps i have are from a scrap bag on amazon  is it hit or miss on decent leather ?

With buying scraps, or 'project sized pieces' off the likes of ebay or amazon, unless its coming from a regular type leather supplier, you are going to get someone's left over scraps. Even with a known retailer you can get rubbish sometimes, eg I once bought a couple of 'project piece' bellies from Tandy ~ I got a couple of pieces that were absolutely no use at all - they were just scrap

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On 5/18/2021 at 7:22 AM, fredk said:

add to your shopping list a rotary blade knife of 45mm or 60mm diameter. You'll not be sorry. 

I use one on any leather thinner than 1.6mm, or 4 oz. It really reduces that pull-out

 

Fiskars 60mm rotary knife, 01LWs.jpg

Amen!

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picked up a 45mm easier than a box cutter 

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I know its been a while almost a year actually. ive bought some tools here and there but what stopped me from continuing leatherworking is sounds made from hammering a chisel. I was wondering if you guys knew any ways to greatly reduce the sound? I use a cheap hollow ikea table idk if that has any effect to the sound as well . Also thinking about just doing leatherworking on the patio of my apartment but late night hammering probably a no go.  Hows everyone been :gathering:

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get a piece of marble or slate to do your stamping/banging against it will deaden the sound .

 

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I made a special stamping table. Its basically a lot of 2 x 4 glued together vertically - maybe I'll photograph it tomorrow.

On this I place my slab of marble or special hole stamping block. Under the marble I use a  thick piece of neoprene rubber. I also have a thick piece of neoprene rubber under the table. This all limits the noise

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