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MsEdna

stitching showing through wallet cover

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Hi everyone!

I was wondering if anyone had any advice. I tried making a simple bifold wallet and ran into a small problem after I was finished. When folded, a seam is "pushing through" the cover panel. Meaning, I can see the stitching of card slot bulging the front cover a little bit. I never had this problem before. The cover leather is 1.3 mm thick and not really that soft. I flattened the seam before gluing but still it shows. I do not really want to put in a layer of stiffener. Maybe a strip of nylon tape over the seam would do it? Has anyone ever had this problem?

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On 5/28/2021 at 1:02 AM, Hardrada said:

Pictures would help. ;)

Sorry for the late reply, Hardrada. Here's a picture of how it looks. It is not a massive bulge but it is annoying and I don't really know how to avoid it. HEEELP :) 

stitching.jpg

On 5/28/2021 at 2:54 AM, Rahere said:

The thread was too thick?

Hi Rahere! The thread is 0.45 mm, I can't go much smaller. The leather (shell) is 1.2 mm and the inner parts are 0.8 mm. I hammer the thread down, but still...

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I think something else might be going on there.  If the thread is that small and you hammered it down, it really shouldn't be making that prominent bulge.  Please post another photo of the interior, that might help.

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2 hours ago, Tugadude said:

I think something else might be going on there.  If the thread is that small and you hammered it down, it really shouldn't be making that prominent bulge.  Please post another photo of the interior, that might help.

there is just one seam from the T-slot, that's it. As said, the exterior leather is medium soft and 1.2 mm, the interior leather is a firm Buttero and 0.8 mm thick.

stitching interior.jpg

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As it is a trifold, maybe the outer shell is too tight? But still, it shouldn't look like this, I think

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50 minutes ago, MsEdna said:

there is just one seam from the T-slot, that's it. As said, the exterior leather is medium soft and 1.2 mm, the interior leather is a firm Buttero and 0.8 mm thick.

stitching interior.jpg

Well, that cinches it, the thread is definitely showing through.  Thanks for the interior picture.  By the way, very nice work there!  I am a fan of creasing the pockets as you have, and the border of the stitching to me makes it pop.

As you know, as soon as the cards go into the wallet, all sorts of lines and bulges are going to happen.  Just a normal thing.  So I don't know that I'd sweat too much over it.  If it really bothers you, go with even thinner thread.  Since it is only securing the bottom edge of a t-pocket, it isn't going to get a ton of stress.  Just the cards being pushed down.  Use glue also if you aren't already.  I assume you are.

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Hmm, that looks pretty bulky for thread?  Did you skive the pocket down to a taper?  If it is thread, I would put a smooth plastic card in there then beat it with a hammer.

For my interior pockets I use .35mm thread and wide spacing.

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6 minutes ago, mike02130 said:

Hmm, that looks pretty bulky for thread?  Did you skive the pocket down to a taper?  If it is thread, I would put a smooth plastic card in there then beat it with a hammer.

For my interior pockets I use .35mm thread and wide spacing.

Hi Mike, thank you for the input. I use wide spacing and the pocket was skived. the bulge is definitely from the thread. I will try your suggestion and use a plastic card next time. Still, this is the only wallet where I run into this problem. Very strange...

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1 hour ago, MsEdna said:

Still, this is the only wallet where I run into this problem. Very strange...

My take is that the leather is especially soft where the thread is pushing against it. Could this piece of the hide have been cut from the belly section?

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4 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:

My take is that the leather is especially soft where the thread is pushing against it. Could this piece of the hide have been cut from the belly section?

no, it is the shoulder and actually quite firm. But, since it is a trifold wallet, maybe the outer shell stretches too much when folded and is causing the marks. I glue the outer shell while the inside is bent, so the outer is approx. 1-1.5 cm longer. I thought this would be enough but maybe that is what is going wrong.

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