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Blunkems

Books/Articles on planning/designing patterns?

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So I've been hitting up Amazon and my local library for as many books as I can find. There's a lot of great stuff I've learned, mostly about particular technique and situations. But I'm at my wits end trying to find any comprehensive text/book over how to actually design and create patterns. My edition of The Leatherworking Handbook by Valier Michael offers some helpful but overall vague and non-specific advice on the matter that doesn't help me understand anything to a greater degree. 

Questions I still don't know the answer to:

  1. How to plan measurements so that stitch lines are easy to incorporate.
  2. How to plan allowances pockets.
  3. Anything about actually planning and designing gussets (what to consider in terms of leather thickness, bends and matching stitches, etc.).

 

I know that through practice this has started to come somewhat intuitively. But I'm thinking there has to be, somewhere, this also written down. Anyone know of such book(s)?

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Welcome to the forum.

 

I am not sure of any books per se, but know that for particular elements / products there are a number of YouTube videos on the subject.  Weaver Leather does a great job on certain things, Don Gonzalez has great instructional videos on how to draw floral designs, Joe Meling has some great videos too.  There are also several for how to create patterns for holsters, knife sheaths, etc.

What type of patterns and designs would you like to create??

 

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1 hour ago, Blunkems said:

So I've been hitting up Amazon and my local library for as many books as I can find. There's a lot of great stuff I've learned, mostly about particular technique and situations. But I'm at my wits end trying to find any comprehensive text/book over how to actually design and create patterns. My edition of The Leatherworking Handbook by Valier Michael offers some helpful but overall vague and non-specific advice on the matter that doesn't help me understand anything to a greater degree. 

Questions I still don't know the answer to:

  1. How to plan measurements so that stitch lines are easy to incorporate.
  2. How to plan allowances pockets.
  3. Anything about actually planning and designing gussets (what to consider in terms of leather thickness, bends and matching stitches, etc.).

 

I know that through practice this has started to come somewhat intuitively. But I'm thinking there has to be, somewhere, this also written down. Anyone know of such book(s)?

you can find this info in fabric sewing books, you may have to learn how to adapt to thicker leather but garment weight leather would be the same. There are some sewing books that cover leather as well.

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Weaver just did one recently. It's a bit daunting but the good thing is that it's just paper until you commit it to something more durable. 

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1 hour ago, PastorBob said:

Welcome to the forum.

 

I am not sure of any books per se, but know that for particular elements / products there are a number of YouTube videos on the subject.  Weaver Leather does a great job on certain things, Don Gonzalez has great instructional videos on how to draw floral designs, Joe Meling has some great videos too.  There are also several for how to create patterns for holsters, knife sheaths, etc.

What type of patterns and designs would you like to create??

 

looking mostly for bags, book-notebook covers, and wallets. I know I've read/heard considerations like adding thickness of leather to shapes to allow for bends or folds, and that's the kind of technical information and tips that I've found hard to find in a comprehensive manner.

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22 minutes ago, Blunkems said:

considerations like adding thickness of leather to shapes to allow for bends or folds, and that's the kind of technical information and tips that I've found hard to find in a comprehensive manner.

You will find that because of the varying types of leather and tanning processes, considering thickness to allow for bends or folds depends on the nature of the leather being used.

You will learn through experience that generally a thicker more supple leather will bend and fold much like a thinner stiffer leather, so they could call for the same allowances.

Another example is when using veg tanned leather. A dampened leather will bend and fold much easier than when it's dry, so that has to be taken into consideration.

A lot can be learned through books, but experience provides us with the best lessons.

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Nigel Armitage's book has very good info on pattern making. Not just in the chapter on patterns, but also in the project descriptions. 

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