Singer 111W155 education continues

[Wyowally]

I've posted a number of questions looking for training and advice as I have worked with this machine since April. The big guns here, and others, have kindly responded numerous times. I am grateful!!  This 1956 year machine was in good shape mechanically as far as wear goes, but it has seen a lot of use, and from the slight buggering of the slots on most of the adjustment screws, several visits to shops or techs with ill- fitting screwdrivers have happened. 

I did get it sewing satisfactorily, yet was bothered by one issue - the upper thread check spring action was jerky, and actually appeared to have one semi-snag in the stitch cycle right when the upper thread was getting pulled past the gib plate. About then I posted a number of times on a thread focused on check spring action.

Last night, I started from scratch with the hook removed and began the installation and timing process once more.  I noted a couple things - my needle bar has no timing marks, and the slot on the needle bar screw was wallered out from many screwdrivers. Also, even though the two screws on the hook gear were different externally, one sort of rounded and the other flat on top, both were flat inside. I believe one should be pointed to stay in the groove on the hook shaft.  I carefully went through the process. Last step was adjusting the case opener to allow the thread loop to pass as soon as it was pulled up to the opener finger.

It stitched beautifully, smoother and quieter than ever, great top and bottom tension, check spring behaving like it should!  Then, after about 18 inches of seam in two layer vinyl, it all went south.  Something has moved or come slightly loose. First indicator was the top thread skipping a couple stitches. I ran out of time to investigate, but am confident I can pin it down. Those things I mentioned earlier are all suspect. Think I'll engrave my own timing marks on the needle bar, and pull the needle bar screw and work it over or replace it. I don't think it has decent bite. I want a pointed screw on the hook shaft gear also. The hook saddle clamps down fine. Need to make sure the big gear on the main shaft has proper screws and stays put as well. I have a new needle clamp and screw to install anyway. So knowing how it can do now, I'm hopeful I will get it back to that. To be continued.......

 

[Wizcrafts]

You can buy replacement screws and a new needle bar from dealers and suppliers. Every part in a Singer 111w155 should be replaceable with either NOS or aftermarket parts.

[Wyowally]

Not finding the set screw, might have to put a point on mine....

 

[Wyowally]

It is working perfectly now!  I followed the advice on the check spring thread and totally re-timed as advised, particularly in Uwe's excellent Consew 225 video. Timing is advanced the slightest amount over spec.  I removed all four grubscrews that hold the hook driven and drive gears on, They were all flat-tipped, so I carefully ground a convex point on two of them, to go into the slots on the shafts. The screw that holds the needle bar setting had the slot buggered out so much that it was difficult to tighten. I ground a screwdriver to fit well enough and got it tight. The bar wasn't loose, but it had been getting pushed up a slight amount over time and just enough to mess things up. Particularly if the raised presser feet were so high that the needle bar would strike them when turning the handwheel!

The stitches are the best I've gotten on 2-3 layers of upholstery vinyl. The checkspring isn't jerky anymore - timing had to be spot on, and the case opener had to let the thrread flow by easily when it came off the hook. Tension adjusting works consistently, either top or bottom - when I make a change now I see the results I expected. I had to tighten up the lower tension because of the previous wonky check spring action, snagging or whatever had made me loosen it up to compensate while I was having problems. I'm a little disappointed now I don't get to sew test seams on scraps anymore.  Joking aside, this site and forum are the best and I appreciate all the help offered!!

[DonInReno]

Great job getting it sorted out!  In a previous post you asked how to tell if the bushing on the hook shaft is worn - the short answer is to compare the upper bushing inside diameter with the lower since the upper wears faster it will give you a rough idea of the amount of wear.   

If your hook is a replacement part there’s no telling what the diameter of the shaft is - many are undersized.    Same for replacement bushings - you might get one on the loose side or tight side.   The guys making these parts are using metric machines and tooling so it’s no wonder few things are spot on the original dimensions.

If parts you’ve adjusted keep moving slightly it might be the torque on the screws.   Sewing screws are quite tough.   Unfortunately it’s difficult to explain how tight is too tight.   If you ever run across an old sewing machine headed for the dumpster it’s quite informative seeing how tightly different screws can be tightened before they snap or strip out.  The big screws on the hook saddle can take a lot of torque.

All screws on a singer 111w should be available from an shop that deals with industrial sewing machines - at least I’ve never heard of one that wasn’t readily available.

[Wyowally]

Thanks again, DonInReno! It is working really well. I replaced the driver's seat cover I made from Cordura a few years back. Machine and knee lifter all worked great on that. Now on to a couple other projects.