New Cowboy in Town

[austinious]

Just picked up my CB4500 from Toledo Industrial yesterday, Bob is great and super helpful.

He mentioned something to me about heavier thread and thinner leather.  Using 277 on top and 207 on the bobbin.  Just curious if anyone does this with the cowboy and if yinze have any tips for a beginner as I start experimenting with my scrap bucket.

[Wizcrafts]

5 hours ago, austinious said:

He mentioned something to me about heavier thread and thinner leather.  Using 277 on top and 207 on the bobbin.  Just curious if anyone does this with the cowboy

I don't mix thread sizes unless the top thread is larger for appearance only. But that's my choice. I always pick the strongest size thread for the project. If I am sewing something a quarter inch thick. or less, #207 top and bottom will probably hold it together. But, if I sew a welted holster that's a half inch or more, I use #277 or #346 thread, top and bottom. I have needles up to #27 to poke the holes required to pull up the knots with thick thread.*

* The thicker the thread, the larger the lockstitch knots are. If a particular needle size (diameter) is just sufficient when you use a size smaller bobbin thread, move up one needle size for the same size thread on top and in the bobbin. You can tell if this is necessary because it will be hard to hide the knots on the bottom. You can either over-tension the top thread, under-tension the bobbin thread, or just use a larger needle.**

** Using a larger needle with heavy thread may make the stitches look too close together with an S point needle. The options are to use a diamond or tri-point needle, or slightly angle the S point needle, or to increase the stitch length to compensate. This is just a matter of appearance as long as the stitches have some leather between them; at least as much as the filled hole sizes, if not more. I have sewn thick holsters, with #346 thread, at 6 stitches per inch and they look and hold fine. But, 8 to the inch is not a very good idea! There is a danger the stress could cause the holes to merge and weaken the stitch line.

[austinious]

2 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

I don't mix thread sizes unless the top thread is larger for appearance only. But that's my choice. I always pick the strongest size thread for the project. If I am sewing something a quarter inch thick. or less, #207 top and bottom will probably hold it together.

I felt like this was the way to go.  I tried it and realized that I would have to really mess around with the tension over the entire machine rather than just the top thread.  I like saddle stitching by hand, so I got LR points in 23, and 25 to start with.  I also got a bunch of 138, 207, and 277.  From the messing around I've done, 207 Seems to be my go to for most of the thicknesses I use.  I have to go back and look over all the previous posts this week.

[Wizcrafts]

3 minutes ago, austinious said:

From the messing around I've done, 207 Seems to be my go to for most of the thicknesses I use.

I use #24 needle for #207 thread on both sides.

[Wizcrafts]

In my first reply, under the double asterisks, I mentioned different needle points. The Type 794 Schmetz S point is an inline oval that produces straight stitch lines. But, the narrow end points cause the holes to appear shorter than they actually are. If you get some 7x4 tri or dia point needles you will still have a straight line, but the stitches will appear longer. There will be more meat between the holes too. Bob sells these needles.

FYI: I didn't mention it but regular 7x3 round point needles also produce a straight stitch line and give the maximum distance between the stitches and strength. However, they squeak and may grab inside the leather because they puncture it like a bullet, or round awl, versus slicing like the leather points do.

[CowboyBob]

19 hours ago, austinious said:

He mentioned something to me about heavier thread and thinner leather.  Using 277 on top and 207 on the bobbin.  Just curious if anyone does this with the cowboy and if yinze have any tips for a beginner as I start experimenting with my scrap bucket.

Mike, That machine

sure  looks good in your shop!I mentioned to do this when your sewing thin leather to get the knot to pull up in the material.

Edited August 16, 2021 by CowboyBob

[austinious]

3 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

I mentioned to do this when your sewing thin leather to get the knot to pull up in the material.

I remember now.  Unloading and setup got me turned around.  I'm trying a bunch of things today, one of them is 8 oz with calf skin lining, lighter thread on the bobbin might help.

Thanks!

[austinious]

I did get the 207 to work.  Had to tighten the bobbin by a qtr turn and mess with the upper tension.  You might not be able to tell in the picture, but the 207 feels flatter against the calfskin.  BTW 8oz with a calfskin piece, #23 LR Needle.  Definitely food for thought....Thanks @CowboyBob

[CowboyBob]

@austinious looks great with the LR needle.