My First Attempt at Holsters

[VikingKong]

I have to admit that after monkeying around with wallets, notebook/journal covers and leather trinkets, I was still intimidated by the idea of making my own holster.  I think they turned out okay.  I'm still learning and I hope that I'll improve along the way.  Here are the 2 holsters that I've made so far.  Any input would be greatly appreciated!  I do have a question regarding the belt slots.  I've seen canted holsters where a belt slot is angled and some that are parallel to each other.  Is one way better than the other?   Is it an aesthetics thing?  Am I wrong in believing that the angled slot offers more stability?  Thanks!

 

[DrmCa]

They are nice but a retention freak in me says 'uh-oh'

[JLSleather]

I'm gonna say those look PURDY DURN GOOD for a guy who claims to NOT be a holster maker

2 hours ago, VikingKong said:

I've seen canted holsters where a belt slot is angled and some that are parallel to each other.  Is one way better than the other?   Is it an aesthetics thing?  Am I wrong in believing that the angled slot offers more stability?  Thanks!

Either will work, though not exactly the same.  Sometimes IS for cosmetics.  Keep in mind that the pull on the holster from the belt is LINEAR ... resulting in an angled slot having less "even" tension but a parallel slot being farther from the weapon .. may be +/- to both.

[Hardrada]

What's the purpose of the brown plates? Are they structural or just cosmetic accents?

[Bruce H]

Dang! Looking good! Very nice work.

[Lobo]

Very nice results, especially for a first attempt. Very clean lines, nicely formed and finished.

Belt slots angled or perpendicular to the belt line is more a matter of aesthetics than anything else, in my opinion. To my eye following the general profile of the holster is more appealing than larger protrusions to accommodate a more vertical belt slot.

Couple of comments from an old timer:

1. The reinforcing pieces you have incorporated offer little, if any, actual benefit in a pancake-style holster. Nice for aesthetic appeal, but the function of the pancake-style includes flexing at the fore-and-aft stitch-lines, so an added bit of leather on the outer side has no real benefit in retaining shape for ease of re-holstering. The pancake-style is intended to reduce bulk, and adding the patches overcomes that to some degree. Others will quickly disagree with me on this, so all I will offer is that I started making pancake-style holsters 49 years ago and have been using that style for discreet concealed carry for decades.

2. The profile of the little Ruger holster offers very good clearance around the grip-frame, important for obtaining a solid grip during the draw. The Sig holster offers much less clearance for the hand during the draw, and might benefit from a re-design to taper the leather away from the pistol grip-frame in order to allow more ease of access. I have referred to this as the need for a proper "shooting grip" during the draw, eliminating the need to shift the pistol in the hand before addressing a possible target.

Excellent workmanship!

[Hags]

I think they look very nice, more so since they are you're first. Nice stitching and design. I prefer a forward canted holster. The FBI standard was set ar 15 degrees sometime in the distant past. I use this on my pancake holsters and find it does, to some degree, help with drawing the gun as I carry mine in the right rear. I also use a reinforcing panel on the front. I feel it adds some rigidity to the holster, but have made them without and feel it really made no discernable difference.  It IS a very nice place to tool, which I enjoy. One thing that was brought up is the spacing between the grip and the top of the holster under it. I always leave at least 3/4" to get my fat fingers around the grip. I also get most of my retention from the back of the holster, trigger guard, takedown pins, etc. Good job!

[HandyDave]

Great looking holsters. Speacially for first time venturing into holster work. I do several of the pancake style holsters with the added plate on front. But i mainly do it for aesthetics. Like has allready been said its a good little space to add some tooling or a 2 tone look like you got goin on with the black and brown or do the plate in a exotic leather to add some extra style. Since these are your first holsters one thing i should mention is be careful on molding to much into the ejection ports. It can cause a hangup spot for the edge of ejection port. I will usually bone in the hard lines but i dont go over crazy with molding most of retention is in the trigger guard area anyway. Just my opinion.

[chuck123wapati]

Great looking holsters . The slots change the angle , cant, of the holster. Some folks like to cant the holster more than others for holster placement on the body while still being able to draw the weapon rapidly. this site has a pretty good description of the canted holster history.   https://aliengearholsters.com/blog/fbi-cant-holster/

[VikingKong]

Thanks for all the feedback!  It was my understanding that by adding the reinforcement section, it adds rigidity to the ejection port area for retention.  While this is my first entry into the holster realm, I was pleased with how they turned out.  I recently added a new optic to my Sig, so I'm going to have to make another holster for it.  I do plan on correcting the grip clearance.  I incorporated a 20-degree cant on these.  Is there a better/more comfortable angle I should consider?

[AzShooter]

I'd be happy to own either one.  You did very well for a first time holster maker.  Some good advice above but you are on the right track.  

[alpha2]

Those are excellent holsters. A lot of good info above. I'd guess the "FBI" cant is the most popular. They supposedly use 15 degrees. If you make a high-rise holster, the cant can make it easier to draw. (Keeps from having to pull the gun into your armpit to clear the holster.)The cant also keeps the base of the magazine from protruding out behind you and keeps from printing. 

I did make a holster, once, that I overdid the ejection port. Essentially locked the pistol into the holster. (Revolver holster with the outer panel up over the cylinder can do the same thing.) JLS has great info on making handgun holster patterns and templates. 

The "stiffener" added to the top of the outer panel isn't required, especially with with the weight leather normally used with holsters. It does add a nice opportunity to spice up the aesthetics, though. Personally I like to go for less bulk, but I've made some with, just 'cause I could. I've seen pics of IWB holsters with the stiffeners, nobody will see it, and it adds thickness, but if it keeps the holster from smashing closed when you draw, it would make the re-holster easier.

I agree slot angle is personal preference. I've made them both ways, didn't find a difference in usage. You'll see some with the arced slots, I don't see an advantage with those, YMMV.

[Scootch]

Your holsters look nice.  My preference would be to use a larger edge beveler for a little more roundness.  On the bottom right corners I would adjust the pattern to where there is enough leather that you can add one horizontal stitch so that your perimiter stitch line doesnt run into the vertical stitch line too soon. Practice on your method of developing your stitch line. The gun fits well on the trigger guard but you're a little off on the dust cover stitch line.  Again, nice job.

Scootch

[lansacoder]

Looks nice!   I think the main thing is not having your slots too far away from your gun.  I try to keep my slots fairly perpendicular to my belt, but I’ve only made a handful of holsters.  Trying my first wallet tonight!

[VikingKong]

I really appreciate the compliments and all the input!  When I made these, I do so by using 2 layers of 4oz leather for the front and back.  I've had holsters in the past that were made with 8-9 oz. leather and the inside was always really rough.

[JLSleather]

On 11/6/2021 at 5:11 PM, VikingKong said:

I incorporated a 20-degree cant on these.  Is there a better/more comfortable angle I should consider?

YOU tell US.  Try on your rig, see how it feels.  Personally think 15 is enough on longer barrel lengths -- sometimes more like 20 with shorter barrels.