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jrdunn

Questions about a Rex 26-188

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Someone gave a friend of mine a Rex 26-188.  My research here on this forum indicates that it is a clone of The Singer 16-188. (Thank you, everyone for all the information that has been contributed over the years!) It was stuck with surface rust from being stored improperly.  After copious amounts of kerosene and elbow grease, I got it rolling over.  It, of course came with a clutch motor set up to run about 2000 SPM.  A 1725 rpm motor, 3.5" drive sheave and 3" sheave on the balance wheel.  I got it sewing and discovered that the needle bar is bent.  Finally, the questions:

1) Does anyone know if the needle bar from the Singer 16-188 will fit the Rex?  And where I might get one?

2) Does anyone know where I might get a sheave at least 6" o.d. with a 14 mm bore?  Will it be OK to replace the hand wheel with a sheave?  

Any other information is welcome and will be appreciated.  Thanks,  Jim

Edited by jrdunn
One more question.

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Why did they bend the needle bar? Was it to accommodate some other adjustment/malfunction? Check what it did for them because you may need more parts after replacing the needle bar. It often snowballs like that because cheap bastards use all kinds of tricks, to avoid buying proper parts.

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not sure if Singer 16 NB are still available - if not look for one from a different model with same diameter and similar length or longer length. I think a Singer 31 / 31K bar should work - maybe you have to shorten it. If you order a 31K bar (or similar) make sure you buy the needle holder with it.

I replaced a NB on a 34K with a Singer 17 NB a few years ago.

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66729-singer-needle-bar-i-could-use-some-help/

 

Edited by Constabulary

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2 hours ago, DrmCa said:

Why did they bend the needle bar? Was it to accommodate some other adjustment/malfunction? Check what it did for them because you may need more parts after replacing the needle bar. It often snowballs like that because cheap bastards use all kinds of tricks, to avoid buying proper parts.

The needle bar was stuck.  The bend is slight and at the place where it was sticking out of the machine.  I assume someone tried to coax it loose, it fell over or got hit by something else.  These are just my guesses.  Thanks for the help!

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2 hours ago, Constabulary said:

not sure if Singer 16 NB are still available - if not look for one from a different model with same diameter and similar length or longer length. I think a Singer 31 / 31K bar should work - maybe you have to shorten it. If you order a 31K bar (or similar) make sure you buy the needle holder with it.

I replaced a NB on a 34K with a Singer 17 NB a few years ago.

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66729-singer-needle-bar-i-could-use-some-help/

 

Constabulary,

Thank you for the response!  I think this is the information I was needing.  I have a parts list for the 16-188 and it lists the needle bar (p/n 4264) that you put in your 34K.  I double checked the measurements and they are the same.  I have found an Ebay seller that has that part #.  He lists it for a Singer 17 also.

Thanks again,

Jim

PS. I should confess that everything I know about sewing machines came from this forum.  Thank you to all our members!

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Does anyone have  information on the handwheel/sheave or do I need to go the "speed reducer route?

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For anyone that this might help later on, here is an update.  This is all done on a very tight budget, so I'll include expenses.

I ordered a needle bar p/n 4264 from sharpsewing on EBay for $11.85 (So far they have been a very good vendor for me.)  This is listed as a NB for a class 17 but is also listed in the parts list for the Singer 16-188.  It worked great in the Rex 26-188.  It was a little longer than the original but worked fine.  Thank you, Constabulary!

I replaced the motor sheave with a 1.75" that I had laying around.  I ordered a 9.25" sheave from Zoro.com, pn G3228766, $34.02 and QT bushing pn G2537991, $10.14. This gave me an approximate 5.3:1 ratio, estimated speed of 326 SPM.  The hand wheel is asymmetrical (It balances the sewing machine.)  I was concerned about this.  The machine runs quite smoothly with the new sheave and significantly lower speeds.  The sheave is similar weight to the original hand wheel.  The larger diameter should increase the centrifugal force and make it punch through leather better.  The clutch still acted more like an on/off switch.  More research here yielded the idea of putting grease on the clutch.  It works great!  I am however, concerned how it might perform when the temperatures warm up.

For those who don't know, this is a dual feed machine.  The bottom feed and walking foot work together to move the material( in this case, leather) being sewn.  This is my first time using a dual feed machine.  It performed very well with even stitching except when stepping up to thick layers.  As long as I kept the foot pressure adjusted, it didn't mark anything significantly except some "pull up leather".  That was "smoothed" out with a little rubbing.  The machine ran slow and smooth.  

I apologize for this being so long.  I am only including so many details in the hope that it might help someone down the line.  It will sew veg tan, although 3 layers of 5-6oz puts a little strain on it.  So, for up to belts and knife sheaths, I think it'll work fine.  My friend makes western chaps and is hoping this will shorten his time to make a pair.

Thanks again to everyone,

Jim

 

Edited by Northmount
Edited as per following post

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Apologies, In my last post, I mispoke(or mistyped).  The machine is a Rex 26-188.  The needle bar is for a Singer 16-188.  I guess I didn't catch it in time to edit.

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