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Bert03241

Snake Skin Failure

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I glued a snake skin to a piece veg tan on a knife sheath and when I folded over the flap the skin pulled apart.:ranting2: This is supposedly real snake skin. Is this normal. any Ideas on how to fix it, or maybe stop it from happening in the first place? :begging::helpsmilie:

IMG_20220117_093841414 (Copy).jpg

IMG_20220117_093851414 (Copy).jpg

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i would pre-form the bend before gluing. Did you put a finish on it before bending it? I have seen leather break also due to some of the finishes if its applied before the bend is formed.

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Much like linings wrinkle when folded, as in holsters, checkbooks, etc. Overlays that can't stretch will crack. When bent, it becomes smaller than the leather it is attached to, and something has to give. And if you glue OVER the bend, it may wrinkle when opened. I know WHY, but I can't tell you HOW.

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33 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

i would pre-form the bend before gluing. Did you put a finish on it before bending it? I have seen leather break also due to some of the finishes if its applied before the bend is formed.

I didn't put anything on it for a finish. Preforming might work but will be very difficult to due. Skin is very thin and as soon as it touches the contact cement you can't move it with out tearing it, so getting it perfect the first time is essential

8 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

Much like linings wrinkle when folded, as in holsters, checkbooks, etc. Overlays that can't stretch will crack. When bent, it becomes smaller than the leather it is attached to, and something has to give. And if you glue OVER the bend, it may wrinkle when opened. I know WHY, but I can't tell you HOW.

Right the skin didn't stretch I thought it would 

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I'm wondering if I cut the skin a little long and used a glue that didn't set so fast it if would slide back when I folded the flap over then clamp in place till glue set up

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It may be possible the skin wasn't properly tanned, and that's why it fell apart.

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Make a bend out of some scrap that you can lay the snakeskin over to get the right size and then use that piece since it will be representative.

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1 hour ago, tsunkasapa said:

Much like linings wrinkle when folded, as in holsters, checkbooks, etc. Overlays that can't stretch will crack. When bent, it becomes smaller than the leather it is attached to, and something has to give. And if you glue OVER the bend, it may wrinkle when opened. I know WHY, but I can't tell you HOW.

 

1 hour ago, Bert03241 said:

I didn't put anything on it for a finish. Preforming might work but will be very difficult to due. Skin is very thin and as soon as it touches the contact cement you can't move it with out tearing it, so getting it perfect the first time is essential

Right the skin didn't stretch I thought it would 

I've used snake skin but never on a bend for that reason. I would rethink your design and save the problems.

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5 hours ago, battlemunky said:

Make a bend out of some scrap that you can lay the snakeskin over to get the right size and then use that piece since it will be representative.

I'll see how that works thnx for the reply

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5 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

 

I've used snake skin but never on a bend for that reason. I would rethink your design and save the problems.

If you saw the one I did in fake snakeskin, I just brought the flap piece over the bend and stopped. I could do it that way ,but I really would like to cover the whole sheath, looks better I think.

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Apply barge cement or other contact cement to the already formed sheath and the snakeskin, let the cement dry at least a couple of hours until it feels totally dry. lay the snakeskin over the sheath use spring clips or tape to hold the snakeskin in place, when you are satisfied with your placement use a heat gun at a distance from your work to gently heat the surface, it will activate the contact cement and you will get a strong and permanent bond.

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On 3/29/2022 at 8:37 PM, Leescustomleather said:

Apply barge cement or other contact cement to the already formed sheath and the snakeskin, let the cement dry at least a couple of hours until it feels totally dry. lay the snakeskin over the sheath use spring clips or tape to hold the snakeskin in place, when you are satisfied with your placement use a heat gun at a distance from your work to gently heat the surface, it will activate the contact cement and you will get a strong and permanent bond.

I think that would make it very difficult to sew

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20 hours ago, Bert03241 said:

I think that would make it very difficult to sew

I think perhaps I didn't explain the process properly, What I tried to describe is the same as adding a liner except letting the glue dry completely instead of tacky where it will adhere instantly. When it is completely dry you can move it until you have it exactly where you want it then a little heat will reactivate the glue, I discovered this process accidently, but it works very well.

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On 4/2/2022 at 1:13 AM, Bert03241 said:

I think that would make it very difficult to sew

just wondering where did you get that hide? It is the belly of the snake you have shown most folks use the other side, the back. How was it tanned? Lees gluing method is top notch but i dont see how it will help in preventing cracking or wrinkleing when opened but i have never tried to put snake on a flap. now if your putting it around the sheath you will have to form the sheath then glue as lee says. 

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I got the skin off Esty no idea how it was tanned. I understand how this gluing works. still not sure how I'm going to punch my sew holes after its formed . hmmmm I'll have to think about this. 

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2 hours ago, Bert03241 said:

I got the skin off Esty no idea how it was tanned. I understand how this gluing works. still not sure how I'm going to punch my sew holes after its formed . hmmmm I'll have to think about this. 

Use veggie tanned fake snake skin . . . 

End of that problem . . . 

Ain't enough folks out there who could tell the difference anyway . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

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yep thats what I'm going to do:yes:

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