Sharpen an awl?

[MtlBiker]

I'm new to using an awl and bought the "flatside awl haft", straight stabbing 2" and small diamond 1 5/8" awl blades from Tandy.  Are these supposed to be quite sharp?  Do they need sharpening, and if so, how?  Using the small diamond needle I find it rather hard to punch through two layers of 6 oz veg tan... I'm guessing because it's not sharp enough?

[fredk]

They should be razor sharp. So sharp that when you poke your finger you don't feel it and only know of it when you see the blood.

I use a small whetstone to keep my blades sharp. A whetstone of very fine grade

[MtlBiker]

7 minutes ago, fredk said:

They should be razor sharp. So sharp that when you poke your finger you don't feel it and only know of it when you see the blood.

I use a small whetstone to keep my blades sharp. A whetstone of very fine grade

Thank you!  I guess my awl isn't punching through well because it's not sharp enough.

But what's the technique for sharpening that shape of blade?  And how much of it do you sharpen?  The point and how far back along the shaft?

I've also got an Osborne awl coming along with a couple of blades.  It'll be interesting to see the sharpness (or not) compared with the Tandy one.

 

[DaveP]

8 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

Thank you!  I guess my awl isn't punching through well because it's not sharp enough.

But what's the technique for sharpening that shape of blade?  And how much of it do you sharpen?  The point and how far back along the shaft?

I've also got an Osborne awl coming along with a couple of blades.  It'll be interesting to see the sharpness (or not) compared with the Tandy one.

 

Here's a really good video on sharpening an awl. 

 

Sharpening a Saddlers Awl - Bing video

[chuck123wapati]

35 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

I'm new to using an awl and bought the "flatside awl haft", straight stabbing 2" and small diamond 1 5/8" awl blades from Tandy.  Are these supposed to be quite sharp?  Do they need sharpening, and if so, how?  Using the small diamond needle I find it rather hard to punch through two layers of 6 oz veg tan... I'm guessing because it's not sharp enough?

yup they need to be razor sharp another method that i use is to glue a piece of 1000 grit sandpaper to a popcicle stick then hold the awl still and  flat and polish the edge similar to using a file on a piece of steel. then a piece odf 2000 grit. I find it much easier to keep the shape  and angles of the awl that way. Good luck on whatever method you choose.

[Spyros]

Yeah good luck, if sharpening an awl doesn't put you off leatherworking nothing will.

Seriously though, take it slow.  A diamond shaped awl has many surfaces, they all have to be sharpened separately, and they also have curves that need to be followed.

And remember, if you get it wrong, a destroyed awl can always make an excellent dart 

[fredk]

Sharpen your diamond awl all the way the handle. Basically I do what chuck does, but I use a whetstone. On my awls I find just going over one edge is enough. I just use the whetstone to keep the point of my scratch [round] awl very sharp. I've read that some ppl use a dart sharpener

On that video, near the start, he shows the distortion of the leather as pushes the awl through. I use a cork block on the back side of the leather to push the awl into, thus no distortion. You can get a large cork block in a hardware store for just a couple of $$. Cut it down to a handy size

[chuck123wapati]

5 minutes ago, fredk said:

Sharpen your diamond awl all the way the handle. Basically I do what chuck does, but I use a whetstone. On my awls I find just going over one edge is enough. I just use the whetstone to keep the point of my scratch [round] awl very sharp. I've read that some ppl use a dart sharpener

On that video, near the start, he shows the distortion of the leather as pushes the awl through. I use a cork block on the back side of the leather to push the awl into, thus no distortion. You can get a large cork block in a hardware store for just a couple of $$. Cut it down to a handy size

but i use a wine cork lol. 

[MtlBiker]

40 minutes ago, DaveP said:

Here's a really good video on sharpening an awl. 

 

Sharpening a Saddlers Awl - Bing video

Great!  Thanks very much for that link, Dave.  Armitage videos are terrific.

 

37 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

yup they need to be razor sharp another method that i use is to glue a piece of 1000 grit sandpaper to a popcicle stick then hold the awl still and  flat and polish the edge similar to using a file on a piece of steel. then a piece odf 2000 grit. I find it much easier to keep the shape  and angles of the awl that way. Good luck on whatever method you choose.

That sounds like a very good idea (and an excuse to buy popcicles!).  Any particular flavor work best? 

 

[MtlBiker]

31 minutes ago, Spyros said:

Yeah good luck, if sharpening an awl doesn't put you off leatherworking nothing will.

Seriously though, take it slow.  A diamond shaped awl has many surfaces, they all have to be sharpened separately, and they also have curves that need to be followed.

And remember, if you get it wrong, a destroyed awl can always make an excellent dart 

Funny guy!  A dart... really. 

But how annoying that a brand new awl arrives too dull to be any use.

Maybe the Osborne one I expect later today will be sharper out of the box.

 

[billybopp]

8 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

but i use a wine cork lol. 

MUCH more enjoyable to get those!

- Bill

[MtlBiker]

12 minutes ago, fredk said:

Sharpen your diamond awl all the way the handle. Basically I do what chuck does, but I use a whetstone. On my awls I find just going over one edge is enough. I just use the whetstone to keep the point of my scratch [round] awl very sharp. I've read that some ppl use a dart sharpener

On that video, near the start, he shows the distortion of the leather as pushes the awl through. I use a cork block on the back side of the leather to push the awl into, thus no distortion. You can get a large cork block in a hardware store for just a couple of $$. Cut it down to a handy size

Thank you.  Looks like a great excuse (not that one is needed) to uncork a bottle or two of wine!  Really, it's just for the cork dear.  But now that it's open, it would be a shame to let it go to waste.

 

[chuck123wapati]

8 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

Great!  Thanks very much for that link, Dave.  Armitage videos are terrific.

 

That sounds like a very good idea (and an excuse to buy popcicles!).  Any particular flavor work best? 

 

there is no bad popsicle flavor imo  lol I'm partial to those orange cream things and they go great with a semi dry rose.

Edited February 25, 2022 by chuck123wapati

[Spyros]

Just now, MtlBiker said:

Funny guy!  A dart... really. 

But how annoying that a brand new awl arrives too dull to be any use.

Maybe the Osborne one I expect later today will be sharper out of the box.

 

I mean, if you're gonna be using an awl you're gonna have to sharpen it frequently anyway, so what's the point of paying them to do the first sharpening for you?  Make no mistake, the awls that come properly sharpened have definitely built it into the price, because it does take a while.

I would bet most of us have a couple of darts in a drawer somewhere, it's part of learning.

[billybopp]

It's a shame that awls do not usually come usably sharp.   If you do not feel confident in your ability to sharpen one, Leatherwranglers has them available in a ready to use state which may be money well spent for you!

- Bill

[tsunkasapa]

+1 on the wine corks, but it's a good thing I have friends that drink it, because wine is disgusting. Every bottle is RAISINS that don't get to go into oatmeal cookies!

[billybopp]

5 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

+1 on the wine corks, but it's a good thing I have friends that drink it, because wine is disgusting. Every bottle is RAISINS that don't get to go into oatmeal cookies!

There are a few beers out there that are corked as well.   Chimay comes to mind as one of them.......

- Bill

[tsunkasapa]

Other uses for the corks; after you've been stabbing into one for a while, it will get rather chewed up. It makes a great 'pincushion' to keep your needles in. Also, if you have a round handle awl, stabbing it into the cork at an angle will keep it from rolling off the bench when you set it down.

[Sheilajeanne]

On 2/25/2022 at 9:27 AM, fredk said:

Sharpen your diamond awl all the way the handle. Basically I do what chuck does, but I use a whetstone. On my awls I find just going over one edge is enough. I just use the whetstone to keep the point of my scratch [round] awl very sharp. I've read that some ppl use a dart sharpener

On that video, near the start, he shows the distortion of the leather as pushes the awl through. I use a cork block on the back side of the leather to push the awl into, thus no distortion. You can get a large cork block in a hardware store for just a couple of $$. Cut it down to a handy size

So using cork on the backside is better than another piece of leather? I've been using a nice, thick piece of belly leather, after I found my poundo board wasn't good for my punches.

[MtlBiker]

28 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said:

So using cork on the backside is better than another piece of leather? I've been using a nice, thick piece of belly leather, after I found my poundo board wasn't good for my punches.

If you'll forgive me as a newbie... I think a cork on the backside is great!  It lets me have full control over my awl and how I'm punching through.  If I would use another piece of leather, it would be chewed up in no time plus the resistance felt while pushing would be quite different.  I don't have a cork "block" but rather use wine corks (of which I have PLENTY!) and what I'm doing so far is holding my leather assembly in a pony and after having marked where my stitching holes should be, I hold the wine cork on the underside (left side in my case) and push the awl through from the right.  No distortion of the leather and no danger of my poking into my fingers.  Now if you're using stitching chisels to make your holes, I'd think the poundo board would be better.  And if with the chisel you're punching through both (assuming there are two) layers, maybe the piece of leather would be better.  I guess it all depends on what you're doing and how.  But you've certainly got more experience than I do. 

 

[Sheilajeanne]

Mtl.Biker, I had a set of the black stitching chisels from Tandy, and my poundo board totally WRECKED them!!    And these were Tandy Pro punches!   https://tandyleather.ca/collections/tools/products/88043-535-pro-line-diamond-stitching-chisels

Okay, if you are using your stitching horse, I can see using a cork, but I pre-punch my holes before stitching. Only thing I use my awl for is if I'm having trouble finding the hole, because it's sort of closed itself up!

A way of preventing stitch holes stretching when you are using a punch is to use a pulling block when removing the punches. Got this tip from Nigel Armitage's book - get a small block of wood, and place it beside your chisel when pulling it out of the holes!

Edited April 1, 2022 by Sheilajeanne

[MtlBiker]

49 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Mtl.Biker, I had a set of the black stitching chisels from Tandy, and my poundo board totally WRECKED them!!    And these were Tandy Pro punches!   https://tandyleather.ca/collections/tools/products/88043-535-pro-line-diamond-stitching-chisels

Okay, if you are using your stitching horse, I can see using a cork, but I pre-punch my holes before stitching. Only thing I use my awl for is if I'm having trouble finding the hole, because it's sort of closed itself up!

A way of preventing stitch holes stretching when you are using a punch is to use a pulling block when removing the punches. Got this tip from Nigel Armitage's book - get a small block of wood, and place it beside your chisel when pulling it out of the holes!

The first stitching chisels I bought were the ones you linked to.  I didn't like them because when they say 3mm or 4mm, it's NOT the distance between the points, but rather the distance between the forks.  I found that frustrating especially when I tried to add a different size spacing... I didn't get what I thought I was ordering.  So I switched to these stainless steel ones from Tandy.  With those the spacing specification is actually the distance between the points.  And I find they actually punch through the leather better.  But lately I'm using them more for marking the holes (or using a stitching wheel) and then using my awl to make the actual holes.

I don't quite understand the use of that "pulling block" you describe... do you place it on the handle side of the chisel or the business end?  And how does that help removing the chisel from the leather?  I did have a lot of trouble removing the chisel from thicker assemblies, which is why I started using my awl a lot more.  Especially since I learned how to sharpen it to my satisfaction.

I keep practicing and practicing my hole marking, punching and stitching, but perfection seems to be an awfully long distance away for me.  SIGH  I am getting better though.

 

[fredk]

53 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said:

. . . I had a set of the black punches from Tandy, and my poundo board totally WRECKED them!!    And IIRC, these were Tandy Pro punches! 

oh dear, oh dear. I bought two sets of hole punches [different spacing], out of China thru ebay. Cost about £8.50 for a set of 3 of each [2, 4 & 6 hole punches] No problem with them. These are for making holes which take leather away

I punch into a block of blocks of wood, end grain on. Sometimes I'll use a bit of scrap leather between my work piece and the blocks

My block of blocks;

I have a small off-cut of thick clear-ish acrylic plastic with a slot cut into it. I place the slot on each side of the hole punches, whatever the type, and hold the acrylic down hard whilst I pull the punches out

 

[Sheilajeanne]

21 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

 

I don't quite understand the use of that "pulling block" you describe... do you place it on the handle side of the chisel or the business end?  And how does that help removing the chisel from the leather?  I did have a lot of trouble removing the chisel from thicker assemblies, which is why I started using my awl a lot more.  Especially since I learned how to sharpen it to my satisfaction.

I keep practicing and practicing my hole marking, punching and stitching, but perfection seems to be an awfully long distance away for me.  SIGH  I am getting better though.

 

MtlBiker, the block goes beside the business end of the chisel, so the leather doesn't cling to the chisel and get stretched as you pull the chisel out. Fred uses a piece of clear plastic with a slot in it instead - that sounds like a great idea, as it would help align your chisel, as well as providing pressure on BOTH sides of the chisel as you pull it out. The wood block method would just work for one side, unless you cut a slot in it.

The leather I am currently working with is VERY stretchy, so the wood block really helps!

Fred, we've had this discussion before, and as a result, I, too, bought some cheapo chisels from China, and so far, they are working just great! :D

Edit: yeah, I keep saying 'punches' (which take a small piece of leather away) when I mean 'chisels'!  

Edited April 1, 2022 by Sheilajeanne

[MtlBiker]

9 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said:

MtlBiker, the block goes beside the business end of the chisel

I still don't get it.  I'm probably as dense as those wood blocks Fred is using.  I define "business end" of the chisel as the pointy sharp end, which is usually poking a bit through on the underside of the leather that you've punched through.  The handle end is the opposite side.  I think I could see using a block of wood on the upper side of the leather, right alongside the chisel which would then hold the leather down flat as you work the chisel out of the leather.  But having the wood on the business end?