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HallisChalmers

Noob having trouble cutting leather from pattern

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I recently retired and have more time to devote to leathercraft. Unfortunately, at my age, I'm suffering from weak hand strength and am basically wheelchair bound. So here's my problem: I have a lot of problems when trying to use a template to cut out my pieces to make credit card wallets. I scribe my pattern lines, but when I go to lay a stainless ruler to cut my lines, the leather seems to "roll" under the blade and I end up with a piece of leather that is not square. It usually happens when I use lightweight leather (less than 6 oz). Heavier leather like 6 to 8oz is a bit easier but my cuts are sill wobbly from time to time.

I can cut a fairly decent line, but every time I get towards the end as I draw the blade to me from top to bottom, the blade wavers a bit at the end. I've tried different types of blades (box cutter, X-Acto, head knife, Olfa, etc. ) but at the very end the blade wavers 1/16 to 1/8th inch at the final end of the cutting stroke. 

I'm only doing very small pieces, as I don't have a large table or bench to work on.

Any suggestions to improve my cutting ability - or is it just a matter of practice, practice?

Thank you for your time.

 

 

 

 

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You may wish to try a rotary cutter . I have the same issue when cutting soft leathers.  Unless the knife is super sharp, you can end up ' dragging ' the leather rather than cutting  it, so a rotary cutter may help. Get a good one , not a cheapy . I tried that, it fell to bits. But  some of the more experienced on here may be able to choose a quality one with out breaking the bank.

HS

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You could try pushing the leather out away from you to finish the cut. It is common to have more control a little further from your body, Find the place in front of you where you are stable, have a good view of your work and then move the leather to accommodate you not the other way around. As far as getting good cuts in thin, soft leather I find a decent pair of shears works well.

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Agree with the rotary cutter.  I use one almost exclusively for lighter leathers, even up to 7/8 oz I use for holsters. It will cause issues at the corners, but you can use an exacto knife for that. I also have a quilter wife and have discovered plastic rules that do not slide. They are called Creative grids.  Look online for them, they are worth the $.

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Yes, found out the hard way that it's very difficult to cut thin leathers without a rotary cutter! Olfa is one of the best brands. The blades get dull pretty fast, so make sure you get some extras.

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One tip I do may help. Give your pattern (or ruler) a coat of contact glue and let it dry off until its barely tacky. This helps to stop the leather moving and pulling out that bit as the knife nears the end of the cut. When you pack your patterns away just watch to not put the contact sides together. Being wheel chair bound another thing that could help is to do your cutting on a HDPE  kitchen cutting board. This enables you to spin the job around on the table without having to move your leather and pattern around.  Works good when you sit on a chair to work as well:wub:.

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One thing I do is cut outside the lines, then glue my pieces together and trim or sand down to size. I don't worry about getting an exact cut that way.:yes:

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Thank you all for the suggestions. I do use a cutting board and have tried the rotary cutter, but the one I have is wobbly. I'll look at Olfa and see if that helps.

 

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Here are a couple of suggestions that might help -

Search the Net for 'adjustable table for wheelchair users' Then you can position the table and your work better to suit you, and possibly at a slight angle

Try a Japanese Leather Knife; you don't need as much finger strength for these as you hold the knife in your fist. This video shows how to hold it, and how to cut thin leather without stretching it where you run off the edge. There are other videos about JLK s; perhaps watch a few and see what you think. Leathertoolz is left handed, I think most other videos will show right handed leather workers. You can also use a JLK for skiving

As with just about all leather tools there is a range of prices, but a mid priced one about £30 = $40?  will do the job. They are also easy to sharpen

 

Consider using a steel straight edge for cutting as they are stiffer and heavier than an ordinary ruler and don't slide as much. Here's the sort of thing, but you'll have to find an American supplier. I notice that Nigel Armitage uses one for most of his cutting. A 12" one is OK for making wallets

Straight Edges & Rules | Accurate | Safe | UK-Made | Maun (maunindustries.com)

If you're considering a rotary cutter there are several YT videos; here's Ian Atkinson using one to make a wallet. I don't use a rotary cutter, but I think the two best makes are Olfa and Fiskars

(2) Making a Handmade Leather Wallet - YouTube

Here's an idea - the usual way of holding a round knife is flat in the palm of your hand with your fingers on top of the blade; but try holding it in your fist like a JLK. And at the end of a cut instead of just running off the edge of the leather and stretching/distorting it, stop short and finish the cut by rocking or rolling the knife so you're pressing down

Also, whichever knife you use, as you get towards the edge of the leather stop short and start again from the edge inwards to complete the cut, so you never run off the edge of the leather

Edited by zuludog

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You say you use an ordinary ruler when you are cutting.  Get a ruler with a cork bottom and that will help a lot.  I sit in my wheelchair when I'm doing leatherwork.  I use a standard size dinner table as my work bench,

I have a 24 X 36 self healing  cutting board like a seamstress would use.  I got it off of Amazon. It helps me keep my project from moving.

If you can, instead of tracing your pattern with an awl or pen, if it's a plastic pattern use it for your straight edge and just cut along the lines.  

For  long cuts I cut as much as I can then move my project and cut the rest,  I find it easier to keep things straight instead of one full length cut.  

Hope this helps.

 

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Thanks very much for all your help everyone. This really gives me many options.

What a great community!

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Using the cork ruler or straight edge will help a lot. I would also recommend making several light passes with the cutting blade instead of trying to go all the way through all at once. Too much pressure will stretch the leather leading to pulled "out of alignment" cuts, especially with thinner leather. Going a little outside the lines with multiple passes will give you room to have your glue up/stitching which will thicken the piece and allow you to even out your finished edges all at once.

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