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The Grizzly

How Do Your Finishes Stick To Leather That Has Been Oiled?

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Hi guys. I haven't started getting into sprayed finishes like resolene, neatlac and the like so I haven't experienced this for myself yet. I see so many posts suggesting the use of Neat's foot oil before the finish coat is sprayed.

You guys gotta help me come to terms with this...I come from a minor automotive painting background and anytime I see the words oil and finish in the same sentence my brain goes into overload with horror stories of finish flaking, peeling, fisheyes, etc.

How do the sprayed finishes stick to the leather that has had oil applied during the finishing process? I just can't wrap my head around it lol. I know they must (or folks wouldn't keep suggesting it) but dang it I just dont understand. LOL

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First, let the oil soak in for 24 hours before you finish the leather. You have to remember that leather is not like metal. It will absorb the oil and not interfere with the finish. PROPERLY (dont over oil) will not feel oily after it sits for 24 hours. It works just fine.

Michael

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Ditto Michael's comments above. I alway oil after dying but befor finishing. I let the dye dry for at least 8 hours (usually over night), then buff with sheep's wool, then oil lightly, let set for another 6-8 hours (usually overnight), buff well again, apply Neatlac, let dry for at least 8-10 hours and then buff again.

The finish has no trouble going on over the oil.

Chief

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I guess I was thinking that the oil would leave some (minimal) residue that would cause the finish to not adhere well. Like I said, I know it works...just didn't know how :).

Man, I remember getting a show truck I was working on ready for a coat of paint...had it prepped, tack clothed, wiped, and ready....then I look up and across the garage is a buddy soaking down some rusted parts with WD40. I could have killed him.

For those of you who don't know what I'm talking about....you spray WD 40 or any other silicone lubricant in the air in the vicinity of something about to be painted, if ANY microscopic bit floats over and gets on the thing before you paint, it will fisheye like crazy.

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I guess I was thinking that the oil would leave some (minimal) residue that would cause the finish to not adhere well. Like I said, I know it works...just didn't know how :).

Man, I remember getting a show truck I was working on ready for a coat of paint...had it prepped, tack clothed, wiped, and ready....then I look up and across the garage is a buddy soaking down some rusted parts with WD40. I could have killed him.

For those of you who don't know what I'm talking about....you spray WD 40 or any other silicone lubricant in the air in the vicinity of something about to be painted, if ANY microscopic bit floats over and gets on the thing before you paint, it will fisheye like crazy.

Yikes!!! As an artist I know what you mean about being nervous of "fat over lean" but it does work as every one has said. If it gives you the heeby jeebies here is something you could try. Even though I read and respect all the dire warnings about only using pure neats foot oil a well respected local saddle maker turned me on to this product which I love! He uses it on all his light saddles.

Lexol NF

http://www.lexol.com/product_neatsfoot.aspx#

I never would have tried it without his advice. This stuff is amazing! The reason I mention it is numerous times in my enthusiasm working on a project I have started painting with acrylics on the leather when I realized I totally forgot to oil the leather. My art training kicks in and I am paranoid of getting oil on the face of the leather but no worries you can oil from the back with lexol NF no problem it is fantastic even with a thick piece of leather it will soak in. It truly does not darken the leather. It leaves the leather supple without being limp. Boy I love the stuff. Even if you do get any kind of oil on the front it will absorb if you give it time like everyone says. I just thought I would offer you an alternative for the paranoid :-)

Cheers, Toolingaround

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