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  2. Gymnast

    Thread tension and twisting

    I just got a little update on this subject. I noticed a video from Rusty, Springfield Leather Company, with a thread leaving the spool anticlockwise when you look down on it. Most spools I have seen is the other way around. If you have read the information in this "thread", you will notice, that a thread comming off this way around should be easier to handle. The video is this:
  3. cseeger

    How To Make Coin Conchos

    I'm sorry TLP. I know you're just trying to help, but your suggestions are just plain wrong and I want to assure my tutorial readers that the soldering tools, supplies and processes as described in the tutorial will yield perfectly acceptable and STRONG coin conchos. Apparently micro torches have improved over the past several years. Just to demonstrate, I chose the largest coin in my inventory, a vintage UK Penny which is about as big of a coin there is. It's essentially identical in size and weight to a US Walking Liberty Half Dollar. Using only my Harbor Freight Micro Torch, the solder flowed and created that solder joint in the picture in 38 seconds. And look at how nice that solder joint turned out. That's as good as it gets for a coin concho solder joint. I agree that you should not use soft plumbing solder to make coin conchos. Soft plumbing solder, otherwise known as lead solder, has a much lower melting temp and is indeed a soft solder with a low tensile strength. Fortunately, you won't find lead solder at Home Depot or any other regular retail outfit. Ever since it was regulated out of plumbing service, all that is available for sale is no lead solder which has a much higher melting temp and far greater tensile strength. The plumbing solder I have is Oatey's Safe Flo Solder, a run of the mill Home Depot retail item. It has a tensile strength rating of 5,900 psi. To put that in perspective, a standard scuba tank is rated at at 3,000 psi which means that the force required to make the Oatey solder joint fail is more than the force required to blow up a scuba tank. I've made many conchos as described in the tutorial and have never had one fail because the joint wasn't strong enough. Conchos are mostly used for decoration anyway and the fact is you don't even need to solder decorative conchos. E6000 glue will work just fine. That stuff is crazy strong and flexible bond. I should have put that in the tutorial as well. I use E6000 a lot. A Pickling Pot? If I had a dedicated metal working studio, yeah, I'd have a pickling pot. But for the average Joe who makes a few conchos here and there, it's overkill. But to each his own. Personally, I have no problems cleaning and polishing without pickling. Note that the exposed side of a concho doesn't have flux applied to it. But I will say this for those of you who would like to try pickling, it's a little more involved than just whipping up a batch of vinegar and salt. You need to educate yourself on the chemical reactions with different metals. It's an acid and you need to be careful working with it and properly disposing etc.
  4. Today
  5. Thanks guys, that explains why I couldn't find it - basically, long gone. The extra couple of posts in Latigo's latest link are a bit more explanatory, they're using tallow, mixed with lard. The tallow is fine but I'm not sure about adding lard as it could tend to turn rancid over time. I think a blend of tallow and neatsfoot oil may be a better option.
  6. Great design and lateral thinking, you should sell them as flat packs
  7. For bags and backpacs and wallets etc I would try and find a cylinder machine to start with like a Pfaff 335 or Adler 69 or there are a lot of clone copies of these that some of the sponsors on this site could help you out with. The 2 I mention here have a small cylinder diameter around 46mm there abouts and come in handy when you have tight areas to get into. Many use a table top attachment with these to give them in affect a flat surface to work on.
  8. Ah, that's interesting. I don't know much, but I do know Juki is a good brand? Is that what you have? What kind of projects is it's "sweet spot"? I'll have to research it more. If I wanted to do smaller items on it I would have to buy some adapter to reduce the speed? I am in northern california so I would need it shipped. I wonder which shipping carrier they use
  9. utah leather

    wet molding

    thank you, I will look for some from the guy I get my leather from
  10. fredk

    wet molding

    I've wet moulded in thickness from 0.5mm to about 4mm. I reckon, maybe 3mm, or 2.5mm, 2mm at the thinnest for your requirement. The heavier the item, the thicker the leather. Recently I moulded a moblie phone holster for myself. I think the main moulded leather was about 2mm and it got a lining of 1mm leather.
  11. utah leather

    Lots of tooled Belts

    All I can say is Holy Shit !!!! beautiful work , how much time does it take you to do a stamped belt like that ? and cost ? how thick is the leather you're using ? . Again those belts look like a piece of art
  12. Your in CA. . don't know your exact Addy. And if you were to drive over and pickup yourself . but if you were to go ( new machine ) . and good everyday workhorse, walkfoot, with Juki parts reasonable and plentiful . Alberoni over in Anaheim, has ( Juki DU-1181 ) for 1150-$ . And that would keep your in your budget for buying a new machine about shipping cost, if you cant drive to pickup . for example last time I bought from them . shipping a new machine on truck ( farther than you would need ) , up I-5 N. to Portland OR. was right about 140-$ . .
  13. utah leather

    wet molding

    how thick or thin should your leather be to wet mold a utility knife/ pencil holder for your belt ?
  14. Dwight

    Gun Leather & stuff

    TxLeather2, . . . thank you for the suggestion. I'm going to play around with some beads doing an insert like your first one. May God bless, Dwight
  15. I am realizing that while I will be okay with hand sewing small items, for larger Items I would like to investigate the potential of getting a used machine, or at least one that is good to start. The main Item I would like to work on would be bags / backpacks, etc. I would be looking at the used market but my main concern would be that it's not an obscure machine. Instead one that is popular and well understood with plenty of information for troubleshooting and use. If such machine exists that would be great, not sure how much it would cost but I'd rather spend less to start. Is a budget of $700-1200 reasonable?
  16. I use a Chinese company, thru ebay, but I'm not sure they could do this one. I mostly get binary stamps made. I think this is one 3D printing would win on
  17. RockyAussie

    Sig P365 n shark

    Hey Gary if the problem you are having is along the lines in this picture below you could try using the slotted needle plate or if you have not seen it yet here is a post I did awhile back might be of interest. Problem below shows what happens when trying to sew close to the edge with the standard dog foot/needle plate.
  18. I like it. Once I get a pile I will have to do something similar
  19. garypl

    Sig P365 n shark

    I moved it next to the meandering stamp design - almost looks like I planned it that way
  20. TargetRockLeather

    What tools do I need to recreate this design by hand?

    I have used this one https://www.leatherstampmaker.com Reasonable pricing and friendly service.
  21. I have looked into that before but was sent to coin engravers,etc. Any recommendations for stamp companies?
  22. Really glossy leather finish! great work
  23. The awa.org.au site is down ..but the wayback machine has quite a lot of their pages..maybe if you have the time to go exploring their archives you'll find more recipes.. their "stash" is here https://web.archive.org/web/*/http://www.apwa.org.au/ HTH :)
  24. BlakesBlades

    Bobberjob UK

    Fantastic work!
  25. SARK9

    Juki 563L

    I've had 3 LU-563's...none of them have ever had an anti-backlash spring in the bobbin basket. Frankly, I didn't know such a thing existed, but that certainly means nothing. Most of the work product you will encounter on a site such as this is quite often produced by machines using *speed reducers* ; The anti-backlash spring is more a fixture of balls-to-the-walls garment or other fabric trades, where you run the machines at speeds close to the maximum your 3450 rpm clutch motor is capable of, punctuated with ABRUPT stops at the end of a stitch line. The anti-backlash spring helps overcome the spinning inertia of the rapidly rotating bobbin when the thread demand STOPS INSTANTLY, otherwise you get a mess of a bird's nest reminiscent of what you'd see with a bad cast from an old-school bait casting fishing reel. That flat blue spring is very often furnished with the bobbin cases of many horizontal axis machines, but I've never heard of one for a 563, and never seen one called out in a Juki LU-563 parts list. Unless you are doing long runs like production shop marine applications can require, I'd guess you will never miss it in your Juki. BTW, I'd like to see a picture of the model badge on your Juki...I'm not familiar with a 563L subclass. -DC
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