Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Thanks @Constabulary. They look nice but it would seem you would end up with an exposed edge on one side of the strap with them ones, which is hard to imagine what that would be useful for. I have been working on some folding pieces that fold into the middle but I would like to see if anyone has any special tools or methods for that process already. Sounds better than above except that one side would be one big fat fold and the other more of a joined look. I expect that the technique would be quite time consuming unless there are any tools that can do such a fold?
  3. I've never folded an edge on a lined holster. Just treated the edge like the rest of the edges on the holster. And a lined holster is glued flesh to flesh so the grain side is showing on both sides of the laminated piece. If he's trying to glue grain to grain he is folding the edge over on itself to do that. It sounds like he's trying to roll the edge over for some reason. Maybe something is getting lost in the conversation. But if he's rolling over the edge and trying to glue it back down, there will likely be issues unless there is a lot of prep work done in that area. And even then I think it's a bad idea, or at least overcomplicating the holster.
  4. Today
  5. @DavidJohn Quite and old post you reply to but anyway. "Powerful machine" is a point of view and depends on what you want to sew. The power is not inside the machine the power comes from the motor that drives the machine. So question rather is: Right machine + motor for the job - or not. I would generally agree that a German made sewing machine from the 1950s / 1960´s will last longer than a modern Chinese made machine BUT the machines have to come from the same class otherwise it is like comparing apples and eggs. So a general statement that "a" Chinese made machine will not last longer that the Pfaff 230 is not the "full truth". There comes crap from China but also very well built machines. The 230 is not an industrial machine, it is well built but it still it is a domestic machine that has it´s limitations. If I had to choose lets say between a Pfaff 230 and a Chinese build Singer 20U clone I would go with the 20U clone (and I´m by far not a big fan of Chinese made machines). But thats still comparing apples and eggs. As I said before the work you want to do decides which type of machine you will need. @chrisash I recently bought some presser feet from a Chinese Ebay seller and they were so dirt cheap I did not expect very good feet at all (wanted to modify them anyway). But what I received was far above my expectations. Totally smooth bottom side and very well finished. So yeah - you can buy cheap and receive crap but you can also buy cheap and receive excellent quality. Thing is you never really know what you will get when you buy from "these sellers" that sell all kind of odds and ends and are not focused on a certain branch. I guess a lot of the "odds & Ends" seller just sell overstock / surplus parts they buy in bulks or so. To be honest the percentage of crap items I received from China is fairly low. The majority of parts I have received (yet) where good to very good.
  6. China is no different than the UK, USA or Australia, You buy cheap and you get cheap, you pay the money for quality and you get quality, all countries produce products made to a price range, but don't expect high quality and long life plus service to come with low priced items Juki and others have not lowered their quality being made outside Japan, but they have reduced their labour costs significantly
  7. With thin leather straps i was taught to cut four times the width required plus 6 times the thickness, fold into the centre and then fold both sides together and sew
  8. I am not new to sewing, but I will be new to working with leather. I recently acquired a Consew machine and I am waiting for some missing parts to complete the machine. I will need to address some timing issues and with the assistance of this site, which has already pointed me in the right direction, I am certain I can make the adjustment(s) and get that squared away. I also have a box of hand tools for leatherwork, handed down to me by my grandfather, that I am excited to take a closer look at and put to good use. I only found this site two weeks ago and I am grateful and astounded due to all the helpful information and excellent project results you have all shared. Thank you!
  9. I don't think it's the mass production that causes the slow degradation of standards, it's peoples' desire to to pay less and less. We are free to choose anything we want and we invariably choose the cheapest possible. To be honest sometimes this also the smarter thing to do, a lot of household items from a couple of generations ago were ridiculously and unnecessarily over-engineered. You could see heavy as bricks cameras, televisions and kitchen appliances manufactured to last 3 lifetimes, when they were guaranteed to be technologically outdated in few years. Not your curtain runners though, metal is definitely better.
  10. I once got a bunch of "strap folder" for double needle machines from a closed leather business. Most are gone (sold too cheap) and I only have 2 left. Never used them but you never know. They are single folds so I do not know what kind of strap they used it for. I´m sure there are other strap folders out there that produce clean edges (triple fold?). Maybe clean edge binder attachment can do the work but of course depends on the leather you want to use.
  11. I am curious to see what sort of techniques and tools you would use to make folded leather straps such as used on a handbag?
  12. Thanks Dwight. I copied an old friend and holster maker, Ernie Hill for the design. I too use a Red Dot sight on it occasionally which is another reason for it to be cut down so much.
  13. I'm guessing, but it feels a lot like my .5 mm pig skin. The pig skin is very stiff but makes a good wallet, I've tried it. I don't like the looks of the color I have so I want to cover it up if I were to use it on the outside. There is enough skin on the Python that the top and bottom scales are not going to be used. The rest seems pretty solid.
  14. That's good looking there Az . . . I built one similar to it several years ago . . . guy had a Ruger with a scope on top of it . . . squirrel hunter. May God bless, Dwight
  15. In a great condition, new servo motor, wonderful for leather work. Local pick up only ( Los Angeles) $800 or best offer.
  16. I'm late to the party, but Batz Corp in Prattsville AR has very nice, heavy duty brass and stainless steel hardware that I use for tack... and dog collars. You might find it easier to download their catalog then search the website using the part number for price and minimum quantity. They have not disappointed me.
  17. I’d rather have the Pfaff 230 than the crappie new machine from China, maybe your brushes need replacement, I have found the Pfaff very powerful for home sewing, it’s lasted this long , how long do you think the machine made in China will last.
  18. jrdunn

    Leather shop ...

    Very nice shop. Nice wallets too.
  19. Very nice! Not really my cup of tea, though. I do admire the work.
  20. Yeah, what he said. At what point does it roll? You really don't need much pressure with water. I use paraffin wax. Bee's wax is too hard, while paraffin has some oil and it rubs on easier.
  21. I have a 6' python skin. it has scales that don't like to be rubbed the wrong way. I don't see it working as a wallet. Maybe yours is different? I've heard the same from others. Many folks use it as an inlay. What is it's thickness? I use 1mm leather for my wallet backs lined with .5mm leather=1.5mm. Sometimes .5mm with .5mm salpa and another .5mm leather. I glue mine on a fold.
  22. I've made a few wallets and now want to make one out of Python. I was able to find a meter that looks pretty good. My question is: do I glue the skin to a thin piece of leather or other skin or do I just make the top piece with the Python?
  23. Very cool. Love the crashing wave.
  24. Thanks for the input. I have tried to push up and out with the nose and cheekbones, but I'm afraid to get carried away. I think I got too aggressive in the pressure around her left eye. I've been using a spoon instead of a beveler, as I don't have a smooth pear shader either. It will just take practice I guess. What do you think I should do about the fact I have made it all without a background on the outside? Does it look okay, or should I try putting it in? I thought the snake heads and tail might disappear if I did.
  25. It's difficult to find a decent holster for my Volquartsen Black Mamba. The biggest problem is that I have a Striplin Thumb Rest on the left side that sticks out about an inch so any holster found needs to be modified. I decided to build this one myself. Nice and stiff so the gun can not fall out but easy to draw. It's 10 ounce leather with a 5 ounce liner dyed Tan. The gun is at about a 10 degree rack which I find perfect for my carry guns.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...