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  2. I believe I misunderstood your request, and I apologize for sending you on a wild chase! I don't see what you are actually looking for there at Goods Japan, either. Rocky Mountain Leather Supply has a Round Dent punch, like you want: https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/pricking-irons-chisels-awls/products/ks-blade-punch-round-dent-punch-pricking-irons?variant=12116078985336 But the smallest available size is 2.7 mm, like Mike02130 warns in the previous post.
  3. AndyL1

    Puukko Sheaths

    Just finished a collaboration on these handforged puukkos. My friend, Will of Stout Craftworks, made the knives, I made the sheaths. Olive and walnut handles with African Blackwood spacers and copper caps. Wet formed leather around wooden block forms and hand stitched.
  4. I own a second hand Techsew 2700 (deprecated). It is identical to the Cowboy CB227R. These compound feed walking foot machines use a standard G size Singer bobbin which is often referred to as 1x capacity. They are best limited to a maximum thread size of #138 (22 pounds test), which works best with a #22 or #23 needle (depending on the density of the material). The maximum thickness they can sew is 3/8 inch if properly adjusted. My machine seems happier running #69 or #92 thread. The smallest thread I have run on it is #33 bonded nylon. The reverse function is part of the spring loaded stitch length lever. You have to pull and hold the lever down to back stitch. The holes will line up as long as you hold the lever all the way to its stop. When you let go the lever springs up into forward sewing mode. The cylinder arm is about 2.5" diameter, or so, (I'm not in the shop as I type this) and easily gets inside bags, cuffs and sleeves. The bobbins drop in from the top on the right side of the needle, under a sliding cover plate. My machine came with an optional table top attachment. The Cowboy has a similar table attachment and also can also have a drop down edge guide installed at an additional cost. But, I found a work around. There are spring loaded edge guide feet for sale with spacings from 1/8 to 5/16 inch from the guide to the needle. Problem solved! One final note is to make sure you get a mechanical dial controlled servo motor with the machine. Mine originally shipped with a push button controlled servo that started with a jolt at about 200 RPM. I replaced it with a Family Sew servo that starts at zero and increases smoothly to whatever maximum speed I set on the rotary dial. The motor is foot controlled. There is also a foot lifter for the feet that gives more lift than the hand lifter on the back of the head. IHTH
  5. Thanks for the insight, @Kcstott ! I have heard good things about the class 4 and 26 for sure. I never really go much more than 3 to maybe 4 widths of 3oz leather but I do tend to use 138 thread. Glad to hear a good endorsement of the class 4 and 26. What kinds of things are you normally sewing?
  6. I'll take a guess at it due to my experience being pretty limited as I am very new to this but I love my Leather machine co. class 4 and should be picking up a class 26 this weekend. these two machines will have all my bases covered with material thickness in leather work that I use. If I could afford Juki I'd have those instead. That said don't under estimate import machine. Be it a Cowboy, Cobra, Tandy Pro. Sailright, etc. you just need to find a machine that will work with what you are trying to do. Now not having used the class 26 all I can say is the cylinder arm is smaller in diameter and the capacity under foot is less than the class 4 but the class 4 is a harness stitcher. so it's needs the capacity. if I were to get into bag work I'd buy a class 20 flat bed machine and a class 26 cylinder arm. that would cover your straps and bags up to 16 oz of chrome or oil tan no problem. being that I'm going to guess you won't be sewing with heavier thread then a #92
  7. Thanks, @Uwe! I would love to stick in the Juki family if I can afford it, so I'll keep my eye out. or save up! Appreciate the rec. I'll search the forums, but also wondering if there's a preference of a post arm to a cylinder arm. I've only had experience with cylinder arms and flatbeds, so I don't know the perks of the post. For reference, here's gussets would be sewing (currently all on a flatbed).
  8. AmyK, The main shaft on top of a Juki is .495-.498". Hope that helps. glenn
  9. Does anyone have information on Davie Jones saddles? I'm doing some repairs on one and was curious. Thanks, Randy
  10. Yesterday
  11. I agree with Bob, that is a good place to start. If the thread isn't staying in the needle bar thread guide, then you've already found the problem. That will 100% cause thread fraying because the needle just stabs its own thread. Other things to check... 1. Check spring position. Check spring needs to control the upper thread until the eye of the needle reaches the material. 2. Check spring tension. Check spring needs adequate tension to perform #1 above. 3. Needle bar height. Hook needs to intersect needle about 1/16" above the eye. If it crosses too close to the eye of the needle, it will split the thread and cause fraying. 4. I'm assuming you're using about a #18 needle for the bonded 69 weight thread? Best of luck with it.
  12. Where's a good source for quality wool swabs in the Central U.S.?
  13. be careful on backing out the foot pressure to much. you need sufficient down force to hold the work down and the needle is pulled back up and out of the leather. You need a shoe makers hammer and a rub stick. gently hammer & rub the stitching and most marks go away.
  14. So, you're not looking for pricking irons? Maybe you mean "round dent punch"? I doubt you'll find anything less than 2.7 mm. Not possible to have them any closer due to the tops being wider than the points.
  15. Decided to try to improve my previous sheath. Here's the the new one.
  16. unfortunalety I can’t find there round ones... available are only diamond and european (french) stitching...
  17. Thanks Tom! I'm so bad at light tans that they often come out blotchy even when I dip dye. It's a super talent, but sadly not a good one
  18. Yes, I see some available at Goods Japan, in 1 mm, 1.5 mm, and 2 mm: https://www.goodsjapan.com/leathercraft-supplies/pricking-irons They're a good company -- I got my current stitching chisels from them and they are good quality.
  19. That's a lot of leather - I didn't even know you could buy pallets of leather.
  20. Not sure I understand your suggestion, HondoMan. Here is what I ended up with. Just finished the back of the sheath. Think I like it better than the front, but it is what it is. Can't complain.......after all, this is my first sheath. Hope they get better from here. Oh, and I purchased a Tandy #F910 to do the corner stamping. Subtle, but did just what I wanted. The dark spots on the front of the sheath are from a water application..........not stains.
  21. Hello all, I have been a long time lurker of this forum and it has been incredibly helpful and the information here is top notch. To preface my situation I am a beginner with sewing machines but I have recently been fortunate enough to be in a position to purchase a leather sewing machine. I am currently a hobbyist with a full time job looking to ramp up production. Hand sewing is taking up too much of my time so it's time to upgrade. I am in the process of choosing between the Cowboy CB227r and the Cobra Class 26 machine for my production needs. I will be using them to make wallets, purses, totes, and other light to medium weight goods (occasional waxed canvas and vinyl). I'm trying to talk myself into spending the extra money to get the Cobra but they seem to be an identical machine. The specs of the machines seem to be fairly identical so I'm having trouble deciding on the best option. Cobra seems to have much more information online then Cowboy does. Also, the accessories for Cobra seem wider (flatbed attachment, drop down adjustable roller guide). This will be my first machine and while I'm fairly handy I like having online support. I can't find many credible websites and tutorials for Cowboy and Cobra just seems like they have a higher level of information available. I feel like I'm nitpicking but I don't want to get into a situation where I regret not putting in the extra money for the right machine. Any help would be awesome.
  22. Brian and anyone interested, I decided to buy a "cheapie" also. Mine is a 3000MW Diode laser from Universal Engravers. I am not building a box for mine as yet, thinking wooden since that is readily available in our wood shop. Is your black plastic enclosure rated or just looks nice? My present defigilty is the blasted cables. I presently have a piece of Piano wire, 1/8" diameter fastened to wall above the unit and hanging over same with twine tied onto wire, holding the cables up. The piano wire will "droop" when necessary to give slack in the cables. I am concerned with the cables tiny wire breaking right at the plugs. My cut area is supposed to be 600mm X 500mm (30" x 40"). That is difficult to obtain without the trollies bumping out of bounds. I am going to make the area 500mm x 400mm since I don't need the extra space at this time. Also have a camera ordered. I am going to burn a grid on the spoil board for now. When I get the camera I shouldn't need the grid as much. Ordered two pair of rated glasses/goggles to augment the pair that came with the unit. Don't allow anyone into the shop area without wearing same. We have sold product to Catalog companies all over the world for over forty years. Recently closed that business to retire for about the third or fourth time. Will see what develops out of this laser, not interested in building from scratch. May upgrade to a 15000MW Diode. Ferg
  23. I believe soaking and stretching helps but when I tested my knot I realized this WILL slip especially as you put your weight on it when walking. I am considering finishing nails but with this knot the length adjusts itself slightly due to the variance in circumference so nailing the leather too soon would prevent me from tightening properly. My current plan of action is as follows: soak and stretch the leather, braid it, add two securing knots to the ends which I found in Bruce Grant's encyclopedia, plate 58 to be exact, and only then after tightening everything add a few finishing nails. Wish me luck LOL
  24. Hello All! I am looking for round chisel or pricking iron with 2mm (max 2,5mm) spacing. Smallest I could find it is 3mm Do you know where I could buy required set? Thanks for any help!
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