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I checked the leather. The vaseline has been absorbed into the leather leaving just a slight slickness on the surface and, the weather forecast, and indeed, is for no rain. A weekend of cold & sunshine. 5% chance of rain - Today
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I made a batch of Bee's Wax, Paraffin Wax and Rosin. Inspired by this discussion started in 2011 and woken up last December ; As usual I made too much I have 3 lots of five T-light size pieces to give away. They were made this size so they would fit in this thread waxer (not included) I also have 3 bigger sized ones and 2 even bigger. The really big ones are in a small pie dish, the smaller are in bun dishes This stuff is seriously sticky. I had to destroy the T-light holders to get the wax blocks out If anyone wants a share of these PM me Its all Free, including UK postage
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I finally got making a batch of this
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Road Agent Leather has a few videos on youtube, his method is to apply a coat of NFO, let it dry, thin the dye then apply liberally with a sponge (he sploshes it on!). It seems to work well for him. -
Just a super simple, minimalist wallet for a friend. Decided to dabble in an arena away from my regular stuff a little. I'm here to learn and open to suggestions.
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Scopenhagen changed their profile photo
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Dyeing whilst the leather is damp helps the dye spread though the leather evenly I would wrap a piece of sponge in a cloth and use that to apply the dye. Do a certain area all at one time, eg all of the brim, both sides, then the crown and then the crown shaper Keep a 'wet' edge. Say, on the brim start at the front centre, doing a bit on the left side, then on the right side, go back and do more on the left side, then more on the right until you meet up around the centre back
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Well, a lot of things are right about these things, but the soles are a little too small (really not sure how I managed that, when I traced right from the completed shoe) and the veg tan toe counter in each is (a) too hard and (b) lacks sufficient toe volume. Wetting won’t do it, unfortunately. The leather is also thicker and firmer in temper than the previous stuff I used, so I need to adjust for that. Will need to adjust the pattern and then rebuild. Here’s a pic of one completed shoe. I think I’m going to either make a taller boot or lower the upper height just a bit as well; this height tended to cut into my ankle just a bit.
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I'm no "all leather" professional / professer / know it all. But if you are using veg tan . . . belts . . . holsters . . . knife sheaths and the like . . . Make the project with the exception of some snaps if you can put them on later . . . or buckles . . . etc. Take a bristle brush and give the project a light coat . . . hair side only . . . of genuine neatsfoot oil. Let it dry 24 hours. Then dip / dunk dye your project with feibings pro oil dye . . . diluted 50/50 with feibings reducer. You should like the result . . . I generally always do . . . I finish it with Resolene after a good buffing . . . May God bless, Dwight -
I myself would use something bigger than a wool dauber. I myself would use a sponge, that has more coverage area, per pass. I would also have my dye in a dish like a disposable pie pan. I would dip one side of the sponge in the dye real quick like & pull it back out & kinda let the dye soak into the sponge. That way it don't drip. Drips off of the sponge is a bad deal & can wreck a project. Then i would start my dye application process to the project, & continue to repeat till I got my desired results. Uniform color & desired color depth. Try dying some of your scrap leather you cut your hat out of first. That way you have a idea how the dye is going to react to the leather. -
k thanks any tips if wanting to dye a hat with even brown color. would wool dauber be best or is something else better to use for keep wanting to learn -
I'm using 200/25 with N.10/270 thread, I usually stitch three times toward the start of the sheath, invert and then go al the way around doing the same at the end. This is actually a good idea since I come from manual stitching with these needles. Will try the technique for sure, will need to wax the thread so its not a royal PITA to make it thru the needle eye LOL Pablo
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ok I have a 669eco. The 669 is the best machine in its class in the world. Only Seiko makes a copy of it and it is not as good for about the same price. i can tell you who has the best price on it. You can add a air foot lift to the 669 eco. I have done it and I can walk you thru setting it up. You can use a speed reducer on a 669 eco with a servo motor but cannot add needle positioner because the speed reducer screws with the needle positioner sensors. You can add LED lights to it. I have 2 different lights on the machine. You can sewing bindings with the machine but that means new feet, throat plate and feed dog plus the binder. You can make it a symmetrical feed binder. contact me. glenn
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Make sure you under cut the back of the right throat plate over the hook or will not be enough clearance for the thread to pass over the hook. Ifyou can make plates, there are guys looking for them for the 67. glenn
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01:30 I just cut a piece of 1.5mm - 4oz into 5 unequal sized pieces and coated them liberally with vaseline, front, back and edges Tomorrow, later today, I'll figure out how to present them to the rain (if)
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What a great skill to have! Did you make your own equipment for steaming?
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Thank you! I’m using bass wood for all parts. It’s lightweight, rigid but flexible, and mostly free of knots. It’s not recommended for steam bending. I was going to use fir, but the bass wood was less expensive. I too would like to try steaming wood to bend, and make a traditional saddlers clam someday. Post an image of your stitching pony?
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Thanks! I really enjoy designing in something like SketchUp. It frees your mind to try many options prior to building. It works well to design using the same steps you’d use if you were applying tools to the material. This idea for a clamp came from working with the curve / circle tool, which then resulted in creating blocks of wood that I’d drill through. Anyway, I’ll post a photo of the actual pony when I finish it!
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That's a hard question to answer I think. Only reason I say that is: it seems like every different piece of leather I have dyed, takes different approaches/dying technique to achieve certain results. Lol now this is what I found when I recently started using Fiebings Pro Dye.
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JCT joined the community
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I hand sew
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That is what happened here too. -
I do everything from a phone & I'm too computer illiterate to figure it out.
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JamesRS joined the community
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We are getting enuf rain for both of us! Its raining in between the showers, and when its not raining it teeming down I think I will copy you and do several pieces of leather with vaseline on them. I, too, want to check the waterproofing Having written that now the rain will stop for a few weeks!
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@fredk That's a good report for a single location. For you too, mineral oil (baby oil) has stiffened quite bit. I have used Vaseline on several items that I made for home use - they get wet off and on but do not seem to absorb any. So for leather that will get wet for short periods, Vaseline is evidently a good water repellent. It has not rained here recently, unfortunately. so cannot do the next test just yet. Keeping watch on the weather. As soon as rain I predicted I will start the Vaseline test. I plan to check after 1 hour in the rain, 2 hours and so on for a few hours, to see what happens. I will be very specific about the thickness of leather used, maybe use different thicknesses. Shopping trip tomorrow for that, methinks.
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7 monthly report. 26th April 2024 Pieces treated and kept on the top of the dash in the south facing windscreen (windshield?) of a car #1; Baby Oil; Colour = Dark, Flex = Stiff 7/10, Smell = No Smell, Other (fungus, deterioration ) = 0 #2; Cooking Oil (rape seed); Colour = Dark, Flex = Stiff 7/10 , Smell = very slightly 'leather', Other = 0 #3; Lard (pork fats);Colour = Light, lighter than Control #1, Flex = Moderately stiff 5/10, Smell = A hint of oil, Other = surface feels a bit 'greasy' #4; NFO Compound; Colour = Dark, Flex is good, 4/10, Smell = neutral, Other = 0 #5; Olive Oil; Colour = Dark, Flex is good 3/10 Smell = very slightly of oil, Other = 0 #6; 3-in-1 Oil; Colour = Dark, Flex is stiff 9/10. Smell = Slight smell of leather and a hint of oil, Other = 0 #7; Vaseline; Colour = Light, lighter than Control #1, Flex is stiff 6/10,, Smell = faintly of 'leather' Other; Surface feels very greasy #8; Control #1; kept with #1 to #7; Flex has stiffened, Colour = mottled light and slightly darish, Flex = Stiff 7/10, Smell = Neutral, Other = 0 - Thats all for now I'll be back soon with a report on the pieces kept outside, in rain, sunshine and wind
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Dispel tech can you send me that eBay link… I can’t get to it… I know Tandy sells them. I attached a pic. I just want to buy them in bulk
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