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  2. This is a very exciting video, but in addition to the type of laser machine in the video, I have also seen an automatic feeding laser engraving machine on the forsun CNC website, which is suitable for mass production, and I believe it is also suitable for leather production.
  3. Don in Reno, thanks. Yes it is the machine from Rawlins (not Rawlings). We did a barter/swap for some upholstery work and we are both happy. Having worked on a number of really older Singers I found that they had their own screw factory and they had screw sizes and pitches proprietary or unique to them. I'm careful about that. I do some gunsmithing as well, so am fairly well screw educated. (Wife may disagree!) The machine is running well, I believe I have the mechanicals pretty well set. Worked over the knee lifter today. It was mounted too far right resulting in having an angled push rather than a straight shot. Much better now. Also discovered that the last vertical shaft going up to the bell crank cannot be straight, but bent to put zero bind on the crank. After I straightened it, of course. I am experiencing the slightest catch felt when rotating the hand wheel. I think the thread is catching on the tip of the bobbin case latch, just haven't fixed that. I was using V92 bonded poly on vinyl, but the needle was a chisel point and the holes were too big for the thread, and I really don't like starting cuts in vinyl. Changed to an old Singer 16. Much better looking stitches, tighter overall. Pic is the actual machine. It doesn't show the mud dauber nest I found in the hollow below the crank! Thanks again for your input! Tom
  4. I didn't paint any oil cups red because they're obviously oil cups, unless you are talking about an oil hole that is not painted red...
  5. Alright. I switched my bobbin thread to 69, and rethreaded top around this little post.. Am now getting much better results.
  6. Today
  7. Don’t give up on it. They are really good machines. I have and use two of them. One set up with 135 and one with 69.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Did you get the machine from the ad in the Rawlings Craigslist? Sounds like you are doing a good job sorting it out quickly. There just aren’t a lot of industrials in Wyoming it seems. Buggered up screws are pretty common - you’ll find they are all slightly different thread pitches and odd sizes - searching or ordering by Singer part number is usually the way to go and prevents a lot of confusion. The good news is one of the sewing shops that works with industrials like Keystone Sewing or Toledo Industrial Sewing can get any of the screws if you need to replace one. There is also good information on restoring screws to near new condition in gunsmithing videos and discussion groups. Essentially you peen the displaced metal back as much as possible, spin the screw in a drill and carefully file or sand the rough surface off. Then the slot can be cleaned up with a screw slot file available from Brownells or other gunsmithing suppliers. You’ll find sometimes it takes a few days for responses here, but there’s always someone who knows something helpful that will come along.
  10. Hi, you know, if you going to put the "swell" behind the trigger guard, you might as well use the extra space to put more slot area for the belt. Later
  11. Thanks for these tips. Most of it seems straight forward to me. I'll see if I can figure out #2 when looking at the machine itself. #4 doesn't seem to be my issue. The bobbin case is brand new and the bobbin thread pulls up and feeds smoothly... is there anything else that might be causing my tension issue?
  12. I don't have any 92 weight thread to switch to. I can try with some 69. I'll try to attach some pictures. If my code doesn't work, they're here at this imgur post: Threading Consew 206rb <img src="https://i.imgur.com/coCdPcQ.jpg" alt="206rb thread post" width="4032" height="1908"> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/g5MGTLS.jpg" alt="206rb top thread guid" width="4032" height="1908"> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/GfHqnaY.jpg" alt="206rb tension discs" width="1908" height="4032"> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/N4OKDko.jpg" alt="206rb take up lever" width="1908" height="4032"> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/VhL7dyM.jpg" alt="206rb lower thread guides" width="1908" height="4032"> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/50PdlFN.jpg" alt="206rb needle threading" width="4032" height="1908">
  13. Gary - The bobbin thread pulls up and pulls through just fine in my case. It definitely pulls through -much- easier than the top thread.
  14. Yeah, and had to go buy 6 small bottles to get by. I swear someone is drinking the stuff!
  15. Being a owner of these machines since 1976 I have some experience. One The thread release works on both knee lift and hand release and is adjusted by a screw on the right side of the tension disk slightly to the back. The release should be adjusted at the very top so tension is not affected. Two The amount of lift is adjusted by a set screw behind the machine below the crank lever (my term) You will need to take the front cover off to to adjust the up and down movement on the rod. Simple but difficult to explain Three You can now adjust the feed lever on the back left to balance the the needle and foot feed. The right lever with the thumb screw adjusts the lifting height for various thickness. Four Bobbin case irregularity is caused by a bad case or a too tightly wound bobbin that expands and rubs against bobbin case If you don't understand any of this let's tackle each issue and I will probably get you through this. This is one of the best machines for performance and durability.
  16. "Oil is cheap compared to replacing parts!" and the two hours production I lost. BoB are those parts available? The screw/pin? the assembly? cost.? Bob, thanks for the advise .!!
  17. Man! Great stuff right there!
  18. I plan on buying this synchronized binder for my Juki 441 for $138.30. I have bought other items from KHSEW and the build quality was excellent! They have a good selection of binders you can use on this attachment for various widths of binding material and and thicknesses of assemblies. It comes from Hong Kong but shipping was surprisingly fast. You will have to create an account before you can view prices. https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=182&product_id=1902
  19. Hello Vinito , congratulation for your very good job with your Juki .... I just imagine your machine with other color ...
  20. Do the heaviest molding with the leather VERY wet. As it dries on the surface, tooling will cause darker "burnishing' (if you do it wet, it will not later darken just because the leather is drying).
  21. El Silla looks very well protected from whatever may come his way!
  22. A wing divider will allow for a better looking stitch. If you start using proper thickness of leather for a wallet, a groover may just tear it up.
  23. @KustomKreator, This is a long time overdue, but it you are still interested, Double K Leather has the Callahan Holster Pattern along with the Callahan Shoulder Holster Pattern here: https://www.doublekleather.com/product-category/educational-resources/patterns *** Jim Simmons' Plains and Ranger Gun Belt Templates and Instructions *** Also Jim provided us with his method for making and sizing both the Plains and Ranger style gun belts in a thread years ago that is buried somewhere deep on this forum, that I stumble upon from time to time. I requested that it be pinned, just as this thread along with the California Holster threads are, as it is a valuable resource that should be easily accessible, but it never was. So here is the next best thing. For those looking for Jim's pdf's on his Plains and Ranger Gun Belt templates along with Instructions pdfs, here are links for those files. The Ranger Belt Instructions file #2 also has the instructions for the Plains Gun Belt. These belts go great with Jim's Cowboy Holster tutorial in this thread, as well as the California Holster thread also pinned in this category. Clicking on the links will download the files. Ranger_Gun_Belt.pdf Ranger_Belt_Instructions_1.pdf Ranger_Belt_Instructions_2.pdf Plains_Gun_Belt.pdf *If you can print on 11" x 17" (tabloid) paper, the templates will print to the correct scale. I hope you find these as useful as I did. For those of us who make western style holsters and rigs, we all owe Jim a debt of gratitude for making these resources available to the community. @Jim AKA @Brazos Jack If you are still out there and possibly lurking here, I just want you to know how deeply gratefully I am to you for passing on your knowledge. I doubt that I would be able to make the quality rigs that I do, if it were not for you. - Thank You! You sure are missed around here.
  24. If that’s your journey so far, imagine what the end will be! amazing work
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