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  2. I've tried, but the quality of photos and lighting is terrible, I'll keep trying though.
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  5. Since you have the saddle, can't you take some photos of it, or have a friend take some?
  6. I too am curious why one holster is single loop and the other is a double loop. Still very nice work.
  7. Is the needle bar showing any sights of rubbing. Maybe try wiping the oil of the needle bar and coat it with something like a permanent marker and run it to see if it rubs off in an area. kgg
  8. While I'm not across prices in Canada $1100 seems way too much for what is an old machine with a clutch motor! As I said earlier it is designed for 8mm (5/16") under the feet, I re-adjusted mine to 3/8" but it caused other issues. As kgg said you are looking at a harness stitcher type of machine if you want to sew 3/4".
  9. I can't believe that this is the only post that describes my current issue but is NOT any of the recomended things to try to alleviate the issue. I have narrowed it down to the needle bar area. At the beginning of the downstroke it sqeak's. It started today, slightly and not every stitch, but has got worse regardless of being properly lubed, with or without thread. There were no accidents and the machine is tuned to the same as the day I got it. I have tried everything I know to do (and I'm not new to sewing on these machines) but it has me stumped and hoping the good folks here have a recommendation to point me in a good direction.
  10. Thank you fellas! tooling commission on the table today, grad gift! Grey dye stage this aft, after tooling pretty much the whole morning. Includes a Calgary flaming horse (alternate hockey logo) on the backside of it where the bolt ends. Going to be deep black coming, and some silver metallic on top. Been a while since I tooled anything. You can definitely feel the rust on your chops when you start would be better to tool something at least every week
  11. I got an order to make a leather handle for a smaller dagger, but not sure how to do it. I already tried once, but was unsuccessful. I cut out leather circles 40mm (1 1/2"), made a hole in the middle and stacked them together not being shy with epoxy, and squeezed with the end nut. Later on I used dremmel and sandpaper to shape it and used fine grit sandpaper (P240 i think) and used resolene afterwards. The result was so poor, I didn't even took the picture, before I cut it off. Anyone got any better ideas on how to do leather handle as such? Pics for attention. And to show what I got.
  12. Got spare daubers, didn't use any for years, since I keep buying pre-died leather already. If anyone still dyes and needs em, i'd be happy to ship them over. Stored in a dry and clean zip bag. I'm looking for 25€ for all the daubers. Shipping is 10€ flat, worldwide.
  13. I have walking foot machines that take one type of foot and needle feed machines that take another type of foot. Then I have a walking foot Pfaff that takes yet another type of foot. LOL. So.... I'd figure out which machine(s) you want to buy for, what type of operation(s) you will be doing, what material(s) you will be using... then bring that info to your Dealer who should be able to help educate you, even if you are not ready to buy a foot from that Dealer quite yet. you may buy a set or many sets from them in the future. I personally used Wiz's information that he had posted previously on the type of feet he owns for a walking foot machine. I didn't own too many feet and wanted to begin doing some more Auto Upholstery work. I think I onlly had the regular straight stitch foot and also right & left toe feet sets. So Wiz's post on feet was really helpful. Also, read what Whiz says about smooth bottom feet, that's good info too!
  14. Ebay has worked for me. Ebay Seller kunpengsewingmachineparts is the best Seller I have purchased from. They have shown a lot of care in packing and also after the sale. Highest quality parts too.
  15. Thank you all for the help and sorry for the faulty link. Customer and I decided that he would be better off purchasing chaps rather than making custom, just more cost effective. I'll get to make a pair someday lol.
  16. I had a PFAFF 1245 it was the old casing that had the coffee yellow body color with the dark brown belt covers. It had the small bobbin. Something to check. kgg
  17. Tequila, it's hard to summarize in a paragraph, but I tried my best. My SASS alias is Remington Steel, as my first single action revolver was a 44 cal. Steel frame Remington 1858 New Model Army revolver. Unless you have been out to CA to compete I doubt we have meet, but another new interest is RVingl, so maybe one day we will meet. Probably should have also mentioned CAS is lot of fun, if you can find primers and powder so you can reload, as you typically go through 120 rounds (not counting shotgun shells or reloads) at a match.
  18. Since it may take so long to get any hides and I've asked around and can't find anyone who has any or will in the next several months, maybe longer, does anyone know of some online store or website that sells natural cattle rawhide, maybe laces the right width and thickness for a reata? I'd prefer the right size for a four strand, but appropriate for six or eight would be nice also. I know there are a lot of people out there that sell rawhide online, but I'm wanting good natural rawhide for a reasonable price, so far I've found nothing.
  19. I found an old photo of the saddle, the bottom of the stirrup isn't visible, but it's sadly the best photo I have, so hopefully it helps.
  20. The pfaff seems to be gray from the pictures, but their quality is bad and the machine probably dirty so not totally sure. I saw some beige models, but why does it matters ? does it corresponds to different series/generations ?
  21. I’m not sure if you can carry out any vocation or avocation without some computer interaction. I needed a rocker switch for my drill press. I put a toggle on it but I use it a lot and wanted to fix it right. I went to 5 electrical supplies, including a very large one in a city. Also called Grainger and 2 other supplies. Most would not even look, even with a part number. Looked at Amazon and got it in my mailbox in 3 days. And we are urged to shop local, support small business. But sorry, not a political thread.
  22. Thanks for the detailed information. Heading to the site now.
  23. @Blanka - It looks like you haven't seen than I sent you a private message a day ago. (As a new member it's possible you missed it.)
  24. That is way overpriced particularly since you will have to install a servo motor. Servo Motors are: i) quiet, ii) energy efficient using about 75 percentage less electricity iii) gives way more precise sewing control. The PFAFF 335 will not sew: i) 20 to 25mm thick anything fabric or leather ii) you maybe able to tweak the machine like dickman to handle V138 (20) thread but not in that thickness. To sew 20 to 25 mm (3/4" - 1") anything you are into heavy iron and 7x3 needles. I don't think you would be able to stuff that much material under the pressor foot on a PFAFF 335. Your needs / wants puts you in the 441 class of machines. These machines are going to be expensive Juki TSC 441 about 10K CAD, ADLER 869 about 10K CAD and the 441 clones that can sew up to 7/8" are about $6500 CAD. Another option maybe the one armed bandits like the Tippmann Boss or the Cowboy Outlaw or the Weaver Cub if you want to go un-motorized. I would considered revamping the designs, invest maybe in a bell or blade skiver to reduce the thickness of the leather down otherwise invest in heavy iron. kgg
  25. Looks great! . Did you make the rig for a SASS shooter? I’m a SASS shooter and you nailed it, my alias is Tequila Shooter, I wonder if we might’ve met somewhere?
  26. Oh, he knew where they were all right! He borrowed the clothes iron to put veneer strips on the edges of shelves he'd bought, and he definitely did NOT want me to know about it! I would not have been happy!!
  27. https://fb.watch/d7y_GHxKRV/
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