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  2. In my area an old time repair guy uses transmission oil in machines when the owner wants the sewing speed increased to keep up with the operators to better get rid of machine heat buildup. kgg
  3. The old factory machines I have probably sewed balls-to-the-wall 8 hrs a day, 5 days a week for 50 years on nothing but common ordinary Lilly white sewing oil. Oil it often and the chances of ever wearing one out are slim at best.
  4. I’d also vote for not spending any money on trying to get the 3-phase motor controller to work, and just swap in a 110v motor. That’s not to say it’s not a good machine - I have a ddl-555 with a simple replacement servo motor that works great for light weight fabric sewing, but they are old enough to not be worth more than $250 with a working 110v servo.
  5. Greetings again. My quest for a leather sewing machine suitable for furniture upholstery work is honing in on a conclusion and I'm going to see/test a new Chandler 406 this week, at a local dealer. All indications that this machine (last one remaining of a lot of 10 he purchased in 2021) is a Consew 206RB-5 and it runs 135x17 series needles and M-style bobbins.. And Schmetz advertises these up to Singer size 24. And while I've read accounts of sewers being unable to run size 207 thread on the 206 class machines, I've been operating under the impression that size 138 was well within its capabilities. So, I'm communicating with the dealer about setting up the machine to test sew my 3 oz chrome tanned samples, he states "T135 is a little to heavy for that hook to take". The dealer has been very responsive, and seems like a good guy, so either I'm out to lunch in my thinking about what a 206 class can due, or he's not really familiar with leather sewing with heavier threads. Anyone out there running 138/T-135 on a 206 class? Have you had any problems? Is there something about the hook on this class that can't handle T135? I've been learning a lot from Willie Sandry (The Thoughtful Woodworker/Upholsterer on YouTube). And he does excellent work on an old 226 and a newer 206, so that's one indicator that I'm on the right track here.
  6. Today
  7. I bought an Italian natural vegetable-tanned half-butt from Le Prevo about a week ago. The price seemed good. Other than some sole bend it is the first time I have bought leather from them. And probably the last. About two thirds of the leather has significant scarring. I initially hoped for an exchange to be arranged but this has not happened. Nor were they willing to arrange collection of the leather at their own expense. Instead, I am sending the leather back myself and will be refunded the total cost of the leather plus return postage. At no point has Le Prevo admitted the leather is inferior. Photos have been sent. Instead, they say they do not recall any significant scarring to the leather when it was picked and packed and that the scars are actually surface indentations resulting from damage during transit. They have wasted my time, and I now need to obtain replacement leather. I have returned an expensive, chrome-tanned back to Abbey England with no problems. As a first time customer too. Excellent service. I have also exchanged a chrome-tanned side from Metropolitan Leather that was damaged during transit. Again, excellent customer service. For potentially new customers of Le Prevo, especially those whose questions suggest lack of experience in buying leather as mine did, I would advise you to steer well clear. Scott
  8. I had a play with some 2-3 oz that I have, but it's far too thin to take a good tooling impression, my swivel knife cuts almost all the way through! Obviously, that isn't how maps were done, but I like the idea of it having a bit more tactility than ink.
  9. I don't think you want the material to be too floppy. Thin veg tan should roll up very nicely and can resemble an old map.
  10. On the Adler 269 the feed movement is generated from eccentrics on the top shaft. There is no synchronization required between top and bottom shaft and you will not find instructions for that in the service manual. Moving the timing belt just changes hook timing. If you then re-time the hook, you’ll be exactly where you were before moving the timing belt. But very subtle changes in hook timing may have a noticeable effect. So you likely just timed the hook slightly differently, improving it. It’s also possible, but unlikely, that your hook is not original to the machine. An aftermarket or seemingly compatible hook may “fit” the machine, but may have slightly different geometries (e.g. the distance between the tip of the hook and the base of the hook that pulls the thread around the hook assembly.) I had a machine (Juki 563 clone) that exhibited the same snapping-around-the-hook problem. I thought that I had fixed it by moving the timing belt (and then re-timing the hook,) but later I realized that it was just the slightly different timing of the hook that finally made it run smoothly. (On that particular machine, moving the timing belt actually does change the feed timing, so I later reversed the timing belt move.) Just for illustration here are the before and after videos of that machine from 2016. I hesitate to post this because the subtitles refer to the timing belt move as the apparent fix, which is incorrect. The before video showing the thread snapping problem (which can also be described as a take-up-lever-pulls-up-too-early problem): After advancing hook timing (and when I still thought this was fixed because of the timing belt move):
  11. At this point I would recommend that you remove the motor, control box and all wires. Then buy a modern 110 volt servo motor and switch box, plus a new led work light that plugs into the back socket on the motor.
  12. here is another thread on the subject. with a picture.
  13. Look into vg tan sheep. Muc thinner and far more supple than beef. You may want to 'break it in' a bit, but I use it for linin holsters and it is very 'bendable/foldable'. Or kid skin.
  14. There should be a sticker on the motor or controller box that specifies what the power requirements are. It’s very likely that it’s a 240V 3-phase setup. You’ll need a 240V outlet in your garage in order to use a rotary 3-phase converter. There is no viable path that takes you from a standard 120V outlet to 240V 3-Phase power. The 3-phase plugs and receptacles I use for sewing machines are NEMA L15-20 which look like this. This is the receptacle on the 3-Phase converter and the plug on the sewing machine. For the single phase 240V receptacles on the wall I use NEMA 6-20P plugs and NEMA6-20R receptacles. This is the 240V outlet in the wall and the plug on the 3-phase converter.
  15. I am at work so i won't be able to post any pics until later today but I did adjust the needle bar height after I advanced the timing. I also rechecked hook to needle clearance etc. Before I mention what I did next, here is a quick history on the machine. I bought it knowing it had timing issues and the price definitely reflected that. It needed a new gear set for the bobbin case which is crazy expensive but luckily I was able to get used along with a lot of other extras. I had lots of cleaning, oiling, replacing beat up screws, a couple stripped holes etc but I'm thru that. I have had most of the machine apart in the process. I am actually very comfortable getting into any part of it now. This is why I just went for it. So last night just before I ran out of time for the night I decided to move the tim belt a tooth...possibly 2. I then quickly re timed it and gave it a try. It is not perfect but definitely the best it's been. I am considering jumping 1 more tooth to see what happens. I couldn't do much more last night because it was getting late but thinking about it today, I am wondering if I should look more into the timing belt and checking if there are any marks on the gears that should be aligned. I will be back at it tonight and will add any relevant pictures.
  16. Thank you for the info. I am especially excited to learn that prewound bobbins exist for this machine. Thank you for sharing this tip on how to effectively google the feet. Can’t wait to check out the link.
  17. I think I am in the middle of making the same error. I am looking to purchase this machine at an excellent price, but when I asked if I could test it out, they said it was missing the plug. I noticed it was a 4 wire plug and since then I have been trying to figure out if my garage can handle it. Or if I would need to run a whole new 220 circuit or something to power. I am not even sure what type of plug to put on it or what type of outlet to get. Any insights would be appreciated.
  18. There is no separate adjustment for the take-up lever because the linkage to the main shaft is fixed and permanent. The movement of the take-up lever is fixed in relation to the movement of the needle bar, as is the case with most machines of this general class of machines. There is no mention of it in the service manual because there is nothing to adjust. Can you please post some close-up pictures of precisely where the hook is when the needle is at the very bottom (BDC), and when the hook tip is directly next to the needle. You’ll have to remove the feed dog for this. You will likely have to adjust the needle bar height when you advance the hook timing, to make sure the tip of the hook is in the sweet spot of the needle scarf when it needs to pick of the loop. .
  19. Thank you for responding. Yes, I am in North America. Here are some pics. I just am not sure what kind of plug to even put on there or what type of outlet to have installed. Thanks again.
  20. you should consider some of the thinner hides that were traditionally used for writing and maps and such. sheepskin , goat skin, calf skin. Deer is another good supple leather that could be used.
  21. Contact a leather supplier that offers splitting services. They can split veg tan leather down to a very thin condition. I have some .75 to 1 ounce veg that I think would be perfect for what you want. Then it is a matter of coloring it to look like old parchment or whatever. You can crinkle it and flatten it out to put some character marks into the leather. I'm sure someone in England would be happy to help you. Maybe Abbey? Other local will know.
  22. No idea, these were purchased from another big maker who may have gone direct to Italy.
  23. Veg tanned leather is mildly acidic -- usually around a pH of 3 in my experience. I'm no tanner but I'd be willing to bet that there's a good reason behind that. In the trade certain premature degradations of the leather are associated with low pH ("red rot") and with excessively high pH. For comparison human skin is around pH5.5, regular vinegar pH2-3, distilled water neutral at pH7 and a saturated solution of baking soda mildly basic at pH8-9. I think it's a very good idea to keep leather as similar as possible a pH as it came out the tannery when we're mangling it, for longevity. I don't remember the pH of iron acetate (the active component of vinegroon, i.e. the result of reacting iron with acetic acid [vinegar]), nor can I find it from Google. The pH of any particular batch of vinegroon might be anything within a wide range though, dependant on things like the amount of unreacted vinegar present. The simple version of the chemistry of vinegroon and other similar strikers is that excess tannic acid in the leather (left over from the tanning process) reacts in the presence of water/moisture with iron to form iron tannate, which is a blue-black in colour. Iron tannate is not water soluble, so can't wash out of the leather. This same reaction is used on tannin-containing wood like oak and chestnut. There's nothing magic or unique about vinegroon -- many different ways of getting iron to react with the leather work. Iron filings are a common accidental reaction in workshops and tanneries. Blood is also common, though usually again an accident. I've used iron sulphate crystals from the garden centre before, and have heard of good results from dietary iron supplement tablets (same stuff). Will Ghormley simply uses a barrel of rusty water. I greatly prefer the idea of using either largely neutral reactants (like rusty water) or consistent off-the-shelf components like ferrous sulphate, for which there is no brew/wait time, are consistent in their behaviour, whose pH can be predicted, measured and controlled. (Incidentally a 10% solution of ferrous sulphate in water has a pH of around 3.5, which is very similar to veg tanned leather.) Immersion of leather in basic solutions of unknown or uncontrolled strength doesn't seem like a good idea to me. I've tried it as the "received wisdom" way to "neutralise" a vinegroon bath and ended up with stuff that seemed fine initially but cracked and split far too early. No amount of grease will knit broken leather fibres back together.
  24. Thanks Frodo , I don't think I'm ready for a motor yet lol I'm still going one turn a time. it definitely has a learning curve to get a straight stitch.
  25. Truth is the way that the leather industry, whatever country it's in, describes and markets it's products can cause real confusion? Let's just take one very important industry phrase . . is it "Hide Split" or "Split Hide"? Both different leather hides! You might also think that an industry brought up on a natural resource couldn't handle modern needs or materials? Not the case, leather merchants have been adept at turning their natural product into the "latest craze" for centuries. When as a Napoleonic Re-enactor our small group were in 1989 the first to recreate the 1791 French Infantry Casque it was our research that gave us the conditions to seemingly include two leather hides no longer available to us, leopard skin and bear skin. Technically the turban around the helmet was leopard hide and the chenille, or caterpillar, across the top bear hide with the hair left on. However such was the cost of making this new design that the early French Republic permitted that to be used on Officer's headdress and for other ranks the turban to be bleached veg tanned cowhide the hair left on and imprinted with dye the unique spot pattern of the leopard, the chenille was to be goat skin, dyed if necessary, and stuffed with straw. So we simply recreated that specification. On a visit to the amazing Walsall Leather Museum (*) years ago we were studying a display of fake hides, some impounded upon import, and were amazed at how much effort was put into creating fakes compared to processing the real thing and the range shown yet the Curator joked "This is only some of our examples and I'm sure we have some "Faux Dinosaur Hide" around somewhere". This effort is made profitable by the genuine item not being available or at a huge cost, not unlike the French Casque I mention above, and from these early entrepreneurs we today have a huge "faux leather" market. In the case of the OP's hide surely the listing in the catalogue or sales information MUST have mentioned PU (Polyurethane)? That the sticky label mentions this would seem to indicate they were not hiding this "faux leather" in any way. By the way, an earlier respondent thought the rear face had to be real as it looked like "fuzzy suede"? In fact if you look closer you will see another valuable indicator as to what form of leather the construction is? Ignoring the loose "tufts" you can just determine a uniform grid and that is most likely caused by a pressure roller use during the bonding process. That earlier respondent is definitely correct in one aspect, a completely uniform gridded surface is highly likely to be indicating a form of cloth. Finding and collating your own reference library of information on leather is time consuming but, when you see say on YouTube a leather merchant uploading some thing useful, then "screen video-grab" that and store your copy in a safe place, you'll be surprised what is out there. With regard to choosing a hide to purchase you should find that any merchant worth his business will cut off a sample and sent it to you? If you think it's a faux hide, and some are so real as to be easily ignored, then do two tests. First use a magnifying glass and look at the side (thickness) of the hide . . does it have two or three defined layers? Some leather sold as "genuine hide" can be a composite of face/middle/inside with the outer two fine slivers of good hide but the inner carcass a bonded mish-mash of sweepings from the floor! This leather should be marketed as "manufactured leather". This form of "genuine faux" hide has no substance and cannot be sewn either, the stitching can "unzip". The other test is to work the sample between your hands repeatedly bending it . . does the face layer now have corrugations lifted up? That's very likely indicating the fake top surface becoming unstuck, again it can neither be tooled and too strong a setting with machine stitching can "unzip" stitches. Risking being shouted down can I include in my response that, yet again, I see a "fictitious hide" being referenced? That is . . . suede. There is no such hide or leather known as "suede" only a process known as sueding which can be applied to a range of animal hides. The term can also be applied to a napped surface on cloth, for instance moleskin garments that are actually 100% cotton. Now you know, do yourself a favour and call the hide by its type as well? (*) Sadly only a part of what we walked around is now on public display but, for genuine enquiries, I believe the Museum staff will permit access to the record section Web-site here : https://go.walsall.gov.uk/museums-libraries-and-galleries/walsall-leather-museum
  26. I think at present time Juki is the main brand that most of the clones copy. They have been around since 1945. However not all their models are made in Japan some models are made in China. kgg
  27. Thanks Dwight! Appreciate your kind words and input. My Redeemer Lives!!
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