Constabulary

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About Constabulary

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Restoring vintage sewing machines. Sewing + repairing military canvas + leather items

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  1. Constabulary

    Juki 563L

    Is the thread coming off the bobbin from the right side? Are you holding down the bobbin while pulling the thread under then tension spring? Please post some pictures
  2. if the spring on the hook is worn / broken I would rather look for a new hook for a Singer 45K. The springs are not easy to replace sometimes because some have an odd little hook that goes into the hook body. These springs can also be slightly different depending on the hook manufacturer so they don´t necessarily fit universally. Guess how I figured
  3. Constabulary

    Help with my Durkopp 239 please.

    We haven´t seen the complete machine yet but you for sure need a new feed dog (see what I have linked above - thats dirt cheap) as yours looks quite worn and as mentioned before the hook tip is blunt / worn so replacing hook is the next thing. Machine is skipping stitches as it seems (hook is not catching the thread loop from the needle - that's what makes the stitches look long = skipped stitches) - either because of the needle hook timing, the worn hook tip or the hook is too far away from the needle I guess. The timing procedures are mentioned in the manuals I have sent you. The values for hook timing, needle bar hight and how the adjust the hook saddle are the same as on the Singer 111.
  4. Constabulary

    Claes Patcher Needles

    88x1 and System 88 are not the same! 88x1 is a short needle mainly for industrial straight stitchers or sergers, system 88 is a long needle for patchers.
  5. Constabulary

    Claes Patcher Needles

    I have no source - sorry! I would have suggested SHOE SYSTEM PLUS but seems their smallest size is 100. At LANDIS the smallest size seems to ne 100 as well. Maybe LW Member SHOEPATCHER knows more.
  6. Constabulary

    Help with my Durkopp 239 please.

    If you want me to I can send an English Singer 111G156 manual and a German Dürkopp 239 manual - these 2 machines have a lot in common (especially the hook saddle, tension unit, hook and the presser feet) so you have some cross references. Just send me a PM with your email address.
  7. Constabulary

    Help with my Durkopp 239 please.

    I don´t see any issues with the bobbin case - looks like mine. Spring looks good. This is an extract from the Singer 111 Manual (same procedure as for the 239). While drawing the thread through the slot #1 (see picture) you have to hold down the bobbin with your fingers. BTW - the hook I have linked is a bit different. You probably have noticed the "cap" for the bobbin case! However - it works for your machine but requires different bobbins. Just wanted to have it mentioned.
  8. Constabulary

    Help with my Durkopp 239 please.

    The entire hook saddle on the D. 239 is the same as on the Singer 111 so an English Singer 111 manual will help you with how to thread the bobbin case. I however can send you a German language Dürkopp 239 manual by Email if you want - just send me your Email address by PM If you are looking for a better feed dog (and maybe needle plate?), there is an Ebay seller who sells used Dürkopp parts for fair prices - if you need other parts just check the sellers offers: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Durkopp-241-Stichplatte-mit-Transporteur-7544/303071333332?hash=item4690758bd4:g:Nz4AAOSw19dcb7M5 Dürkopp 241 and 239 are using very similar parts (depending on subclass) but the above will work for your machine This would be a new hook for your machine (if needed) https://www.ebay.de/itm/Greifer-Durkopp-Adler-228-238-241-249-New/263541951800?hash=item3d5c530d38:g:4TUAAOSwEOpaHu64
  9. check google or eBay for "Singer 17 shuttle hook" if you can import it depends on your country customs regulations but I doubt it will be a problem. However you only find out when you check with them. Most folks here are most likely not familiar with the Sri Lanka customs regulations.
  10. Constabulary

    Thread tension and twisting

    Okay, good to know you are aware of it, so no worries and no offense But honestly a size 20 thread is what is the max. for most medium duty / upholstery type sewing machines in the leather trade and you try to run it through a tiny domestic machine - that does not make much sense. Its not just the thread - the whole machine is not designed for this type of thread (or work) including the thread path, tension unit , needle plate and hook. I basically understand when you want to find out the max capacity of your machine (we all want to know the max. cap. of our machines) but I honestly think this experiment with a domestic machine (Singer 201 I guess) is a bit over the top.
  11. Constabulary

    Thread tension and twisting

    I honestly never faced a serious thread twist problem. Gymnast - I guess you run an (probably oversized?) (bonded nylon?) thread through a vintage domestic machine and you are not using a proper thread stand - rule of thumb on this regard (as far as I recall): The position of the guide hole in the boom of the thread stand should be at approx twice the height of the thread spool (or more) and centered directly above the spool. Furthermore - this machine for sure is not meant to work with thread or thread heavier than approx #69 . I´m sure this machine will run perfect with polyester or cotton thread of a size up to #69 (or less). This machine has no serious thread guides as used on some "real" industrial sewing machines that can handle heavier thread. F.i. the Singer 111 has several thread guides / guide holes for "untwisting" thread - and that's what they are meant for! In some cases it even matters in what angle the thread "enters" the tension unit - it can well be that the thread pops out of the tension disc when the angle is wrong and/or the thread is too lose (no proper thread guide before the thread enters the tension unit). For this reason some manufactures have a thread guide of which you can alter the angle. So - using the right machine also matters - it´s not just the thread that causeuse the problem. Using the right components (incl. the right machine with the right thread for a certain operation... concluding - meaning the whole setup) but as always there is no right or wrong - the truth is somewhere in the middle. However - I´m not using any nylon thread at all. I`m mainly using polyester or poly/cotton core spun thread or - not kidding - very old US made cotton thread (for historical purposes). I´m f.i. sewing harnesses for BC-1000 back pack radio with this cotton thread (like they did in the 1940´s) - I never got a complaint because of broken seams but that's a different field - I know. I understand that a lot people are using bonded nylon because of its braking strength - but - folks should ask their self if their products really needs this breaking strength. Will there ever be so much "force" on the seams of the finished product that it will break the thread? I honestly think that for most purposes a good quality polyester thread is sufficient and is most likely will solve a lot of "thread feeding" issues and it most likely will never break.
  12. Constabulary

    Is Facebook now Vegan????

    And firepower... and German beer.... and Italian pasta... and Singer sewing machines
  13. Constabulary

    Adler 30-10

    Not sure if I get you right but during the sewing cycle there is no tension release, just as on all other sewing machines too. You only have a tension release when you lift the presser foot with the lever on the backside (then the cup will be lifted and releases the tension). If you have too much top tension I would also check the bottom thread tension, it could bee to high as well. What thread are you using (probably too thick for a patcher machine?). 69 or 138 thread is what most patcher can handle. There is not timing between thread lever and tension disc that you could adjust. You can adjust the travel of the thread lever with the adjuster but that is just for the material thickens (if ever needed). I have no Adler 30 I could post a video of but I have successfully restored a few of them. Most patchers (Adler 30 & Singer 29K) pretty much have the same sewing cycle and movement of parts. They differ a bit but the mechanics are very identical.
  14. Constabulary

    Adler 30-10

    This parts has nothing to do with the tension (guess you mean the thread tension). It regulates the foot lift hight when sewing. Slide it to the left you have lesser foot lift, slide it to the right you have more foot lift. Please post pictures of your machine. I think there is either a bent part or a missing part when the tension is not releasing. However, the worn tip can be brazed or welded but it is not too bad worn. Yes the Singer 29K slider looks a bit different but should work, both machines have the same tension leaf spring on the back side. There was a time when Adler 30 and Singer 29K had a similar slider.
  15. Good lord - I´m on the wrong side of the pond I wish I could dive through all this stuff