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About Constabulary

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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    Restoring vintage Singer sewing machines.

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  1. Looks like an Adler 199 Zig Zag garment / tailoring machine. Do not expect to find many parts. Machine is using a timing belt. If its bad or missing you are most likely screwed (if it doesn`t share the timing belt with other models but I don´t know). If you have pleasure in tinkering I would probably buy if for 30-50 bucks. Looks like hinges, V-Belt and bobbin winder are missing (if not inside the drawer). Maybe you can use the table and thread stand for another machine - just depends... I have a manual in German langue if it helps. Send me a PM with email address so I can send it.
  2. @SewingFeatures are you an Amazon affiliate link spamer? "Brain MIller" sometime is Leon V. or Victor Fiori on linkedin or Eli Bawer on twitter or Victor Mosheyev on soundcloud - at least they share the same avatar picture Sometimes you find testimonials (f.i. Peter Kartscher) with this avatar picture too. Mods - please scroll down to the end of the linked site and check the disclaimer. We had similar link spamers in a German Forum a while ago.
  3. sewing some pieces of 10mm thick leather together and producing a certain leather good are two different things. The 220 series usually have 20mm foot lift so 10mm should be no problem. I´d recommend to test the machine before buying. If the motor is too fast you probably want a new servo motor and maybe a speed reducer in addition.
  4. basically it depends on the work you want this machine for / what kind of leather good you want to sew / produce. Meaning the question should be what is the right machine for what I want to sew (the right machine for the job)
  5. Will it? With 207 thread - maybe? Not defending Adler (really not) but the needle <-> edge of throat plate distance is a question of what throat plate and feed dog you have installed. Adler and Pfaff offered a wide range of throat plates and feed dogs - nowadays availability of these parts is the question or how the machine is set up and what subclass. BTW - since you have the DCS-246 and the Adler 69 - have you tried if the feed dogs and needle plates are interchangeable? Would not surprise me.
  6. some piping samples https://www.leder-info.de/index.php/Keder on soft leather it usually is not a problem when using round point needles except you want a certain look for your visible seams. Check this (download link for PDF) https://www.groz-beckert.com/mm/media/en/web/pdf/Point_styles_for_leather_processing.pdf
  7. Hard to tell w/o seeing pictures or seeing a video. However the curved piece between tensioner and bobbin holder probably needs an adjustment. That thingy is meant to fill the spool evenly. And (maybe) you have to play with the thread tension. Few years ago I made an electric bobbin winder for my 45K / 45D (same bobbin as for the TS 3650 afaik) and w/o that curved thingy the bobbin was not filled evenly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4a09r509AWw https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/75580-diy-electric-bobbin-winder-singer-111-and-45k-type-bobbins/?do=findComment&comment=498088 My machine mounted winder (ADLER made) also has this curved thingy.
  8. Indeed very cool! I really like the stick closure. I would probably add a handle on the top side and a small leather loop on the stick where the strap in running through just for holding the stick in place. But thats just me...
  9. If I had too choose I would go with the nickle / chrome plated ones rather than pure brass because when leather is in contact with brass it can develop this nasty green waxy stuff (copper acetate). Not sure if it will (takes some time) but could be. Therefore I would choose the plated ones when working with leather binding tape. My 2 cents.
  10. I assumed he has manual for the machine - if not see attachment. The screw on the left (circle) is for limiting forward and reverse. There is a kind of "butterfly" on the lever and the limiter screw is the end stop for the "forward wing" and "reverse wing". The deeper in the screw the shorter the stitch in forward and reverse. If the screw (arrow) is loose the butterfly could be out of alignment. See drawing - not sure if this is obvious enough (I´m no artist). When the screw is all the way in (stitch length zero) the feed dog should move just up and down but there should be no forward and reverse movement at all. Very simple but very effective too and works very well. Bomb proof old Singer technology! Not the most technically advanced F & R system but simple and functional . So when the "wings" are in good shape and screws and nuts are tight this will work reliably for ever and cannot go out of adjustment (usually). 2nd thought is the clamp and set screw on the feed shaft are loose or they fixed the shaft in the wrong position. Therefore the question if the feed dog probably hits the needle plate. But I only can guess.... 02_Singer_45K_manual.pdf
  11. No - that's a different screw the screw I mean is internally. its a large slotted screw. The red arrow points where the hole is & and on 2nd pic where the screw is. You probably have to rotate the hand wheel to see it. Not my machine its a pic from the www. This is mine I restored it in 2016. Different subclass but basically the same machine and it works perfect ever since. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/72789-singer-45d91-restoration/ Have you noticed the question above? When the machine is in reverse (lever all the way up in the slot) is the feed dog touching the needle plate in the longest stitch length when turning the hand wheel?
  12. Maybe it´s because of wear. Is your limiter screw present (see red circle)? First I would check if the screw that attaches the stitch length adjuster / reverse lever to the casting is tight. You reach the screw through a hole in the casting right under the top shaft / behind the hand wheel. You probably have to remove the hand wheel first. Also, when you dialed in the longest stitch length is the feed dog touching the needle plate in reverse when you rotate the hand wheel? Post some pictures of your machine please.
  13. I make a turn when the needle has risen and I leave just the needle tip in the material (needle eye visible) and I lift the foot just enough to give the material free like 2mm above the material so I have no tension release. On my 111G156 I also have adjusted my tension unit the way that it releases very late meaning it only release when the foot lift lever is in its upmost position. That ensures I have no tension release when seeing very thick materials. If you are using a foot lift pedal make sure your foot does not rest on the pedal. My 2 cents here.
  14. keep in mind - the UK no longer is in the EU so for everything you import from the continent or elsewhere you have to pay 20% VAT + tax on top. I don´t know the 669 but I assume the binder brackets are the same as for the 69 https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/durkopp-adler-parts/durkopp-adler-69-parts?p=4 I would check with College Sewing, they sell KH binder and stuff as well. When the UK was in the EU I ordered everything from them (I´m in Germany). When ever I had a question I was in touch with Justin -->> Justin[at]college-sewing.co.uk
  15. BTW - often the Singer "D" machines from Wittenberge, Germany have a decal instead of a brass badge. But the decals are often rubbed off. However the decal looks like this bras badge here and says "Fabrik Wittenberge".
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