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Constabulary

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About Constabulary

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    Restoring vintage Singer sewing machines.

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  1. depending on the machine you ordered Id keep the one that has the most in common with the new one in terms of accessories, needle system, bobbins, feet.... know what I mean?
  2. Pre wind some bobbins before you start sewing. There are external electric bobbin winders like kgg has linked above or you can DIY one. I have 3 electric DIY bobbin winders. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/75580-diy-electric-bobbin-winder-singer-111-and-45k-type-bobbins/ or some other DIY ideas for spool winders or the like : https://woolery.com/weaving/weaving-tools/bobbin-cone-winders.html
  3. when he said the hand wheel is "off the grove" I would assume the knob (plunger thumb nut) on the hand wheel is not engaged.
  4. last thing I could imagine is that the adjuster for the thread take up lever it too far in and is causing a bind. See page 11 in the manual. But I only can guess - hard to tell what is going on when not in front of your machine.
  5. One thing I notice in the video is that your stitch length adjuster is set to the shortest stitch length as it seems. Lower it (longer stitch) and try again. See above linked manual page 10. There also is an adjuster for sewing different material thicknesses. It should have the marks H, M, and L (High, Medium, Low) or just H + L. Looks like it is set to the highest foot lift (not sure though). Change the setting to medium or low foot lift and try again. Manual page 12. Hope this helps.
  6. Adler 220 and Singer 144 share a lot of parts. However the Singer 144 is older than the Adler 220 so maybe Adler "updated" some prats. When Singer was going down Adler even manufactured the 220 for Singer which they marketed as Singer 144A. It´s probably the same as for the Singer 111w which is more or less the grandfather of may newer triple feed machine made by Seiko, Juki and so forth - they share parts but are not 1:1 clones. So it depends.... What parts are you looking for? Maybe the question in easier to answer this way.
  7. Interesting motor! But seems they are kicking around promotion for this motor for maybe 2 years but yet no source to buy them or what? For a reason?
  8. This may help you: https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=prewound-bobbin-information https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Prewound-Bobbins But I do not know sources in AU
  9. A IMO more important question is to ask if he can provide a binder attachment that suits the bindings material you want to use. I guess you want to use a leather tape for biding edges. So the thickness and width of the biding material matters as well as the thickness of the edges you want to bind.
  10. No offense but better post pictures of your machine or a Video instead of having people to download a parts and walk trough lists to figure what parts you mean.
  11. Make sure your screw driver really fits the tiny screw slot. If the screw is seized / gummed with old oil apply heat with a heat gun and try again. Or try a micro gas blow torch or a blow torch pen. https://www.ebay.com/itm/176252788614 or similar
  12. IIRC sole folks from Downunder imported one or two of them a while ago. But I do not recall who it was. EDIT: Found some related threads: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/94574-tsc-441-clone-from-china/ https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/56853-buying-keestar-sewing-machine-441-directly-from-china/ https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/70913-441-clone-factory-name-and-location/ https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/88115-usa-import-of-441-my-story/
  13. Now we know what they did with Jabba the Hutt after Leia killed him.
  14. when heavy thread is breaking it also could be that the hook tip is piercing the thread. A reason can be that the needle bar is set a bit to high (they sometimes raise a bit with the time f.i. when sewing a lot of hard materials or hit a hard spot or the needle plate). When the NB is set to high the hook tip probably pierces the bottom of the thread loop. So I would check the needle hook timing and even when you think it is set right try to lower the NB a tiny bit. Just a suggestion - maybe it helps, maybe not. I cannot see when the thread is unspooling in the video. But I would control the travel of the check spring. The travel of the check spring should stop when the needle tip is above the needle plate or above the surface of the material. I guess the the tension unit has a rest for the check spring that can be adjusted.
  15. Not sure how wide they were spread internationally. But if no one can help here check in the German sewing machine forum: https://www.naehmaschinentechnik-forum.de/search.php?keywords=Phoenix+249 Pretty sure a lot folks there are using 249 and similar machines
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