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Constabulary

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About Constabulary

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Restoring vintage Singer sewing machines.

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  1. I would try a # 22 / # 23 needle for 138 thread + to me it looks like your bobbin case opener needs to be adjusted (thread seems to keep hanging a little bit). Your check spring may need adjustment as well (more travel). Do you have a manual for your machine? Usually they have hints for adjusting, threading, needle thread chart and so forth.... get one if you don´t have one.
  2. Singer is no longer existing as a manufacturer thought the brand name still exists. Singer made needles in the UK and Germany as well but thats all long gone. Needle manufacturers are a story of its own.... Schmetz needle packages were marked with "Made in Germany" for a long time then later "Made by Schmetz" and current packages have no "Made" markings - see what I mean But you can still buy Schmetz needles marked made in Germany (older stock I guess). In Germany we had Rhein Nadel, SNF (Singer), Schmetz, METWAR, Groz Beckert, Leo Lammertz (all great quality needles) and several others. The last two were Groz Beckert and Schmetz but a few years ago Groz Beckert bought Schmetz (Groz Beckert bought most of them afaik). And AFAIK the GB needles nowadays are all manufactured in Asia nowadays. EDIT: https://www.groz-beckert.com/en/company/history/
  3. Don´t worry too much about needle - it will cause headaches. There are several thousand different needle systems for different machines and similar needles sometimes have different "names". You can use System 214, 216 & 328 needles in your machine 214 & 328 are the same, 216 are a bit different around the tip (at least my 216 are a bit different compared with 214 / 328). On 214 & 216 the prefix (1, 2, 3, 5, 7....) is most likely and old description for a certain needle tip. Really - don´t worry too much. 216 is not very common today that's why 214 / 328 is used instead. It would not surprise me when you order 216 you may get 214 in a 216 marked package instead. I have heard when you order 332 you may get 135x17 instead (same needle length but 332 has no scarf on the needle). Regarding KY - not sure but maybe Singer had different facilities for manufacturing needles and one maybe was in Kentucky = KY. But that's a very wild guess.
  4. It may be grease or wax from an "overtreated" leather. Grease or wax sometimes "sweats" out when the temperatures are changing or humidity changes. Over the years I had this on some military M-1916 holsters for the Colt 1911 from the WWII and WWII era. Even when you removed it - it may come back. if it is no mold and when you apply heat (hair dryer) it most likely will diapers but may come back one day. Mold will stay as is when you apply heat. Just my experience.
  5. its the logo of one of many far east manufacturer I guess. I have seen it before but who recalls all the Chinese brand names.
  6. Finding certain Pfaff feet can be pain. Thats one reason why I like Singer so much -> tons of different feet available. I´m not sure how the needle presser foo bar distance is on the Pfaffs but if it was my machine I would try a plain needle feed foot and lower he presser foot bar. College Sewing is a good source or you may find them a bit cheaper on Ebay. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-type/sewing-machine-presser-feet/needle-feed-lockstitch-feet
  7. No - does not disengage. Thats correct. You have to wind the bobbin in an unthreaded machine and lifted presser foot or while sewing or use and "external" electric bobbin winder. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=electric+bobbin+winder+site%3Aleatherworker.net
  8. Agree with 52w. This one seems to have a roller foot and a very narrow needle distance. Maybe a model for sewing vamping / shoe uppers and the like. If you need a few more details, this one seems to be similar. http://www.usa-dealer.net/SINGER-52W22-TWO-NEEDLE-POST-SEWING-MACHINE_p_1242.html I case you will ask I don´t think you will find gauge sets for a wider needle distance for this model (though they were available - back then) Maybe the manual gives you some more details: 51W19_52W21_W22.pdf
  9. Maybe you can provide some pictures of the original items that are stamped with these signs. What machine is the presser foot for? Most likely not this but who knows: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datei:WHZ-Logo.svg
  10. W/o sitting in front of your machine or having seen any pictures I guess either the top thread causes tension due to hanging thread at some point in the thread path or the shuttle hook spring is faulty (for what ever reason) and thread moves out of the spring.
  11. Interesting machine. How do you know it has a (special?) hardened shuttle hook? All shuttle hooks are at least surface hardened afaik.
  12. The class and subclass should be visible on the oblong badge. I guess its a 46K15 fur sewing machines or similar.
  13. I´m surprised to see a 132K (OEM Singer, not clone) with reverse. @Oldiesfan - can you please post a picture of the underside of your machine? I´m curios how the reverse works on this machine / what is different to the "plain" 132Ks.
  14. This for sure is not new but I think not much known so I thought I show what I did. Since I´m fiddling with my vintage Singer a lot and have added several different type speed reducers to different machines I always hated that I do not have the right left V-Belt on hand. Of course in some cases you can adjust the SR or the motor angle but still annoying IMO. I have used round leather belt in some cases (meant temporarily) but they stretch with the time and you have to shorten them. I also had issued finding the right length especially for the machines with higher post (see below). Long story short - I ordered some round PU belt with rough surface for testing and so far I´m quite pleased with them. This is what I have ordered (cheapest I could find for testing) https://www.ebay.com/itm/PU-Polyurethan-Rundriemen-mit-rauer-Oberflache-fur-die-Antriebsubertragun-PLA/312661290102 I have ordered 9mm / 5meter. I haven´t yet tested the belts on my "heavy machines" / heavy materials that require a certain punching power on some projects. ATM I only have set up the 51w post bed and 108w binding machines with the round PU belts but I´m very pleased. Both rather light / medium duty machines but both machines appear to run a bit smoother. I cannot explain it technically but they overall just appear to run smoother. Just to have it mentioned - other that industrial V-Belts the PU belts are a little bit stretchy but not too bad. So I´m not sure (yet) how well they work with "heavy Duty" machines with heavy / thick / dense materials. Optically black V-belts are nicer IMO but technically I´m quite pleased with the green round belts. Nice thing on the PU belts you can easily shorten them, melt the end (flame, soldering iron, heating iron....) and put them back together if the belt it a bit too long / need more tesnion. Some pictures:
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