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About Silverd

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  • Birthday 03/22/1957

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  • Location
    So Cal
  • Interests
    Custom leather product design, repair of leather things, sandal making, fine leather bags and personnel carry items

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    All aspects of leather working
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  1. Pro dye is an alcohol / oil base liquid. So, I'm not sure how using water to help the dye migrate through the grain of the leather is a good solution...but if it works!. Alcohol is water compatible however, the oil is not and the oil is the carrier of the Dye. I've have used either nothing or Goof Proof in the past but recently started applying saddle oil to the grain surface before dying using pro dye (which I typically spray on). Both the oil and the Goof Proof serve to prepare the leather to receive the Dye and even out the absorption. I would also say the process reduces how dark the results will be. This can be helpful for dyes that tend to go dark...like Dark Brown or Mahagony. The spray process is very controllable and allows me to create various finish values using the same dye and on the same piece. Darker along the edges provides an element of Faux patina that suggests the product has aged. I will spray adjacent panels at the same time as they appear in the final assembly. This allows me to carry the faux shading across both pieces which really looks nice in the final product. For those thinking this is a lot of work given the gun cleaning etc...I typically leave dye in a gun for several weeks before it will need flushing with Acetone and possibly tear down. I usually have at least two guns running different shades to support multiple projects simultaneously. I also spray water base contact cement that I use to laminate. Love the spray gun! Black Dye is difficult to keep from cross contaminating Red Dye is the easiest to work with and to keep uniform Blue Dye will turn Purple if applied too well Light brown base with dark brown edging can make a new piece look very aged Hope this helps! Silverd
  2. My goal is to remake the case with fresh leather and secure stitching regardless of stitch style. I'm not focused on stitching persay. My original inquiry was to understand if a special sewing machine was used to make this case...the stitching is the only remaining tell. Thank you Silverd
  3. I was hoping to minimize hand stitching to the finishing runs at each corner and the corner pads. But hand stitching would make the best looking results. Silverd
  4. Hello Helpful Folks Can anyone help me identify this type of stitching? What kind or type of sewing machine makes this stitch? Image is from a vintage leather Doctor style bag or suit case that I'm remaking around the existing hardware. It appears to me that the leather panels were stitched together using a unique machine...Possibly a post bed or??? Certainly some hand stitching seems to have been used but its not totally clear? A lot of these cases were made and there was likely special machines used in the manufacturing process. Anyone have information? Thank you in advance! Silverd
  5. Hi I'm interested in it's purchase if still available. Silverd. 805 701 3990
  6. Do you have more accurate contact information re Tiger-Touch??? I'm not finding them or able to contact. Thanks! Silverd
  7. Ebay suppliers have always been my go to for Pro Dye in quarts. Silverd
  8. My latest concern is the handle anchor straps. IF they are not up to the task of holding the loaded trunk, then the project is limited to cosmetically restoring the trunk rather than cosmetic and functional restoration. To accomplish handle anchor strap replacement will require removing the lining to gain access to the back side. Of course, making new anchor straps will be required then hand sewing them back in. Notice how the previous leather worker sewed them with a stitch line across the highest stress area just below the Dee Rings. tsk tsk tsk...Not how I was taught to execute a load bearing connection. Silverd
  9. It looks like a paint finish is original. Opaque colored finish I think.... Silverd Where do I get this? Makes sense to use. Silverd
  10. Saddle Soap is a good idea. I'll for sure do that! I agree that the Dees should be replaced. It appears they are brass plated steel but I have not taken a magnet to them as of yet. This weekend I'm planning to slowly start in. The leather connecting the Dees to the main case look to be questionable as well. And the way the stitching was placed along the top edge creates a perforated tear line...Thats now how the equestrian folks do it for sure. Unfortunately the inside lining would need to be removed to replace them but I suppose thats the right way to do the restoration. Silverd
  11. is the crease set still available?  



  12. Yes, a very cool bag that could have aged more gracefully if only cared for along the way. I Agree with your concerns re the condition of the leather and stitching ripping through. I have not had time to take a close enough look to tell yet but I'm hoping the handles are in as poor of condition as they are because of hand sweat penetration that repeated use may have caused where as the bag leather might be a little better. Will see soon enough. Stay tuned for more images as the project progresses. Silverd
  13. Hello Fellow Leather Workers, I picked-up a fun project from a client of mine yesterday. The images attached are of a vintage suite case of sorts, possibly a large Dr. Bag, which appears to have been originally made circa 1950-60s and is in obviously rather poor condition. Client would like to get it back into a functional state, which I can likely accomplish by replacing the main straps, recovering the carry handles and hand stitching back the failed seams. Internal condition of the cotton fabric lining is actually very nice aside from some discoloration. I didn't include internal photos as I will not be doing any work to it at this point. Cosmetically, \the client is also interested in having the hardware polished and if possible, the entire case repainted in the original color. The condition of the main bag leather is marginal. There is evidence of dry cracking at the corners, which I am hoping can be mitigated through application of leather conditioning products I have used in the past on very old halters and headstalls. Any suggestions? I'm thinking I will apply the conditioners first then sand and repaint if I decide to go down that path. This is similar to how Fiebings suggests leather be conditioned, colored then protected with Tan-Kote as a final step. Of all the work, repainting the leather may be the most challenging and the most risky. If there is someone in the forum who has any experience with this sort of work I would greatly appreciate hearing from you. All other advice as to the best way to proceed on this project would also be graciously accepted. Many Thanks in advance! Silverd
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