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About PlanoMike

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  • Birthday 02/21/1947

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Plano, TX
  • Interests
    Leather work

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Fine wallets and bags
  • Interested in learning about
    Various leather working methods
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Leather Machine Co.

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  1. fredk Thank you. You are absolutely correct. I checked a couple other round bags that worked, but were assembled and stitched differently than the one I'm currently working on.
  2. I failed to mention at the start im making a round purse, 20cm diameter(front and back pieces), and 7cm wide gusset.
  3. Im making a purse from a pattern. it's a round purse. I used a 5mm, 2 points Japanese stitching iron to punch the gusset and round front & back for the round purse. The purse measurements are metric, and I matched the pattern exactly. I go around the front & back pieces 5mm from the edge punching the stitching holes. I am very careful to be precise with my punching. I then punch the holes in the gusset( which goes around the entire purse) using the same iron at 5mm from the edge. I come up with exactly the same number of punches for both gusset and front & back pieces. And the punches start and end exactly where they are supposed to. So now I feel confident and start stitching from the center of gusset and front piece. I notice as Im stitching that the holes on the round front piece are gaining distance from the punches on the gusset. They are supposed to be directly across from one another. In fact the holes get several holes apart from one another. thus the stitches are all out of alignment and the project locks like crap. What am I doing wrong that the punch holes don't stay aligned across from on another? I do a lot of hand stitching and am pretty good at it. Ive successfully stitched square bags with large rounded corners with no problems.Im lost. Help Please. Thanks, Mike
  4. yes, I said that all wrong. there are a couple project I have in mind right now that id like to use edge binding.
  5. Does anyone know of a seam binding foot for a class 26 sewing machine? I've done a pretty good search of the regular places with no luck. Thank you, Mike
  6. Thanks, Im pretty much copying your technique. Works good and I'm practicing it. My corners are getting better. Thank you very much.
  7. I checked it out. Good solution for a class 4. My Class 26 doesn't have the same reverse.stitch length control, so I have had to work out a solution for myself. Thanks for your thoughts and help.
  8. I'm new to using a sewing machine. I have a Class 26 from LMC. When sewing along and come near to the corner, my next stitch will either be short of the corner, or past it. I haven't figured out how to put the needle in the corner when I come to a turn. Can anyone give me any help, hints, suggestions? Help me , Thank you so much, Mike Caldwell
  9. As you can see from TomE, he gets 9 SPI. I talked to a tech at LMC this afternoon. he explained several things. The numbers on the dial a there for your reference, and have no specific meaning to the machine's SPI. As TomE said, you can losen the dial from the screw and move it counter-clockwise and retighten it. Turn the dial toward 1. That will get you more SPI (shorter stitches). You can do the opposite by moving the the loosened dial clockwise, retighten the screw, and turn it toward 0 and get fewer SPI (longer stitches). This is why I created my leather strip stitch guide. I have been at the leather business for 6 years, all hand stitching. I had a SailRite LeatherWork for 2 years, but rarely used it. Didn't like the thread choice, was great for fine leather wallets. Because of my increased bag, purse, backpack work, I decided to go with the Class 26. So, I've got a lot to learn and a lot of practice ahead. Now if I can just keep my feet pressing the right pedal.
  10. I'll try what TomE did. Thanks for the replies. When I did my test, I used 207 thread with a 22 needle. I didn't think needle and thread would make a difference on stitch length. On the other hand, I won't ever use more than 5 or 6 spi.
  11. I just got my 26 this week, and in the process of learning about it. Didn't understand the stitch length dial. so I started playing with it. Using a strip of 8oz veg, I sewed strips at the various setting s on the dial. Here's what I came up with. Hope it helps. Mike in Plano, TX Cobra Class 26 Stitch Dial Stitches Stitch Stitch per Length Dial Inch in mm Cobra Class Stitch Dial.pdf
  12. I like using goat for a variety of items: lining, wallet insides, purse insides, sometimes I’ve used as the primary hide on wallets and card cases, ladies’ clutches. I’ve bought goat from several suppliers, but I think I’ve found the best. The name is CLoys Leather. cloysleather.com. He’s located in El Paso, TX. One of the nicest, easiest to work with suppliers I’ve experienced. The goat is top quality, no marks or blemishes, very uniform color across the hide. He carries many colors. Turns your order the same day, very reasonable on price and shipping costs. I strongly recommend his products.
  13. I’ve seen lots of questions on thread and needle sizes, especially from newbies. Figuring thread sizes was especially difficult for me starting out, so I put together this list. I look at thread size carefully when I’m starting a new project, so I still use this chart. Maybe it will help others Thread:Needle Cross Reference.pdf
  14. I had looked up the meaning, but didn’t believe it. I’m not sure how this applies to leather work. I truly enjoy leather work, but I don’t get prurient pleasure from it.
  15. I see ASMR with many leather posts on YouTube. What does it mean? thank you
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