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Found 90 results

  1. I would love some advice on how/where to sell a leather sewing machine. I'm closing my business (never really got off the ground) and I have a Cobra Class 26 that I need to sell. Much appreciated, Luanne
  2. I'm coming along- wouldn't consider myself a newbie but far from a master. I've been punching size 207 and 277 pretty consistently through my Cobra C4 machine with good luck thus far. I am getting ready to put in an order with Weaver and want to make sure I get everything I need in order to take advantage of their best buy pricing and free shipping... it pays to put in those big quarterly orders. I have been purchasing Nylon thread by the pound from Weaver My question is... has anyone had luck with Tiger thread through 22/24/26 size needles? I don't currently use Tiger thread but have heard that it is really high quality. Can anyone attest to this? My concern is the "Lightly waxed" bit... will this gum up my rollers/ thread guides/ needle bar? What do I need to know- if anything- about this whole "Braided Polyester" business? Does is sew differently than Nylon? Would the size 207 nylon be size .5mm tiger? 277? Primarily, I am interested in the large availability of colors. I guess I should add- I make mainly tack so heavy/ thick stuff generally doulbled up HO Harness or Latigo but I have been making a lot of belts/ chaps etc and have been looking to invest in another machine more capable of handling the thinner/ softer oil tan/ chap sides. Any suggestions? I am weighing pros and cons of the Cobra C26 and Cobra C20. Thanks in advance.
  3. I’m looking at buying one of the above splitters new. I’m located in Australia and these seem to be the best two on offer. Just wondering if anyone had feedback on either - pros and cons for them. I know the obvious is the size of the split but other than that does anyone have experience with both and could shed some light on the preference. Thanks kaysi
  4. MAINTENANCE AND TIPS FOR THE COBRA CLASS 3, 4, & KING COBRA, PRO 2000, ARTISAN TORO 3000, 3200,4000, Cowboy 3500, 4500, TECHSEW 5100, SEW PRO 44L, KINGMAX, MASTER LOCK, JUKI 441. AND OTHER 441 STYLE MACHINES Thread 1) Make sure that the thread you are using is not dry, old, or damaged by the elements. Keep thread in a plastic bag to help protect it. Make sure that the thread does not untwist, if so, then the bonding agents have evaporated or weren't very good to begin with. Threading 2l Make sure that your machine is threaded correctly. Breaking thread, skipping, fraying the thread, and tension problems will occur if your machine is threaded incorrectly. Take up lever 3) The take up lever has 2 functions: to give the thread enough slack so the hook can carry the thread around the bobbin case, and, after the hook releases the thread, allows the thread to pull up into the leather. Check spring 4) The check spring maintains tension on the thread as the take up lever returns to the top position. Needles 5) The needle must be installed correctly. Make sure that the long groove is on the left, and the scarf is on the right. Needles are tempered, so after usage, they lose their temper and become weak. A weak needle will bend or break easier after losing its temper. When the needle breaks, it could cause damage to the presser foot, needle plate, feed dog, or shuttle hook, so make sure that you change your needle every 12 hours of actual sewing. Also, make sure that you use the correct size needle for the thread and thickness of leather that you are using. lf you are using too big of a needle, then at times, the thread will travel up and down inside the hole that the needle punched resembling a tension problem. lt is all relative. The heavier the leather, the heavier the needle and thread. The lighter the leather, the lighter the needle and thread. Tensions 6) The thickness of the leather that you are sewing will dictate the amount of tension that you will need. You should loosen the tensions for lighter leather. Your tensions work in conjunction with each other, so you should loosen or tighten both tensions when adjusting them. You should never loosen or tighten more than 1 full turn at a time. lf you run into a problem with your tension and you are not sure which way to turn or you just can't seem to get your tension back where they were, then it is time to recalibrate them. This is a simple task. To re-calibrate your tensions, remove both knurled tension nuts completely, then put them both back on the machine until they just come in contact with the tension spring and stop. Sew a test piece. You will probably find that the stitch is toose, but this is what we want. You are now able to adjust your tension by tightening them both 1 turn at a time untilthe stitch pulls up. You may also experience bobbin tension problems. lf you have tightened the bobbin tension as far as you can, and stillthere is not enough tension (the bobbin thread is visible on top of the leather), you may have to clean out under the bobbin case spring. After hundreds of yards of thread pass under the bobbin case spring, microscopic fibers of thread, along with leather dust and other debris, start to collect under the bobbin case spring causing the spring to spread and give false tension. lf this is the case, then you will have to remove the spring, clean out the debris, and may have to bend the spring to put more pressure on the thread which will give you more tension and allow you to be able to adjust your bobbin tension as well. You may have to purchase a new bobbin case spring if re-shaping your existing spring does not work. Shuttle Hook 7) lt is very important that your shuttle hook is in excellent condition. lf your hook has burrs, or scratches, then you must buffthem offto make your hook smooth again so the thread will pass over the hook with ease. lf your thread is fraying, then a burr is most likely the problem. The thread will pass over the burr and then get caught, causing a couple of the strands to break. You should run your finger nail over the top, sides, under, and at the point of the hook when feeling for burrs. The shuttle hook travels in the race assembly. You should clean out the race assembly frequently. The race assembly must be clean, smooth, and oiled to assure the best sewing results. Needle Deflector 8) The needle deflector is located in the shuttle hook area. lt actually deflects the needle to protect the point of the hook. The needle will brush against the deflector moving the needle slightly to the left of the point of the hook. lt also keeps the needle straight, assuring that the loop made by the thread is consistent. Presser Feet Timing 9) Both Presser Feet should rise to the same height as they alternate walking. The procedure to assure that your presser feet are walking correctly is to turn the hand wheel towards you until the point of the needle is even with the plate or feed dog. At this time both presser feet should be down. The needle, and both presser feet should meet at the plate or feed dog at the same time. lf this is not the case, then loosen the adjusting screw and make the adjustment. The adjusting screw is located on the far right side on the back of the machine. lt is an Allen Head screw. Presser Feet Height 10)The presser feet height is determined by what you are sewing. For the most part, the height is set at medium to high. This will allow most applications to feed (whether thick or thin) without getting caught on the feet and impeding the motion of the feed system. lf you are manufacturing one item, like belts, where the thickness is constant, then you would set the height to accommodate the belts thickness. This adjustment is in the back of the machine, and is sometimes referred to as the "banana slide" adjustment. Hook Timing 11)To set the timing for the hook, first remove the needle plate and in some cases, the feed dog. This will allow you maximum vision. Set the stitch length to zero. Put a new needle in the machine. Raise the presser feet to the up position. Turn the hand wheel towards you untilthe needle is in the lowest position. Continue to turn the hand wheel untilthe needle comes up 3/16" , this measurement is critical. At this time, the point of the hook should be even with the needle and approximately 1/8" above the eye of the needle, and in the scarf of the needle as well. To adjust the shuttle hook, remove the round cover plate on the front of the machine located in the lower right hand side. After removing the cover plate, look inside the machine and you will find the black Allen Head bolt that holds the hook driving shaft. You may have to turn the hand wheel to get a better view of this bolt. Loosen the bolt and you will be able to physically turn the shuttle hook while it is in the machine. Turn the shuttle hook to the correct setting, 1/8" above the eye and then tighten the bolt. This may take more than one try. Tip: A quick way to check if your machine is out of time is to lower the needle. Just above the screw that holds the needle in place, is a hole that you can look into and see the top of the needle. Loosen the screw, then drop the needle until it covers half of the hole and try sewing. lf the machine sews properly, then you will have to advance the shuttle hook about 1/32" .lf it still does not work, the lower the needle again, until the top of the needle is even with the bottom of the hole, and then try again. lf this corrects the problem then you will have to advance the shuttle hook about 1/16". lf your machine still does not sew properly, then retime your machine based on the instructions above. These adjustments may vary depending on the machine. These instructions offered in this tutorial may not be absolute, because there are other factors that could come into play, but are a good starting point. Thank you, Steve For more info, please call: Leather Machine Co., lnc. 1-866-962-9880
  5. Hello Can anyone explain why a top and bottom feed skiver is better than a bottom feed only? Can a top and bottom feed skiver do everything that a bottom feed only skiver can do...but more? If a Leatherworker.net Member is skiving mostly higher temper Herman Oak 3-4oz (1-2mm) leather...can this work be done on a Top and Bottom Feed skiver or should this individual use a bottom feed only skiver. There is not one sewing machine that does everything...Is this also true for Skiving machines? Do I need both? Your assistance to the questions above will assist me in deciding on which machine to purchase and will ultimately determine the success of my business and the health of my sanity! Many Thanks in advance. Silverd
  6. $1400/OBO. Like Brand NEW!! Less than 5 hours. Located in NW Ohio. Willing to ship price determined at time of sale COBRA Class 18 Needle Feed Walking Foot Machine is sturdy enough to handle leather and fabric up to 20 oz. (depending on material) FEATURES: Sews up to 20 oz. (depending on material) Compound Needle Feed (Triple Feed) Walking Foot Big Bobbin (M style) Uses thread sizes from 69 to 207 Safety Clutch for hook protection Digital D.C. Servo Motor Heavy Duty Speed Reducer Flat Bed stand with locking casters LED light Thread stand and bobbin winder
  7. I have a barely used Leather machine Cobra class 14 leather splitter for sale. I dont really use it anymore and its just taking up space in the shop. New, out the door with shipping is around $2500 usd. Selling it for $1900 usd.
  8. Leather Machine Company, Cobra Class 4 walking foot with all accessories! In Great condition! Local Pickup only - Phoenix, AZ $2400 I have tons of pictures but this site will not let me upload many.
  9. The Cobra and Techsew big packages offer similar capacities and attachments other than the Techsew having the laser guide and coming with EPS. Are there any other significant differences? I know Cobra is all American made, but don't know about Techsew. I don't know if Cowboy offers an everything and the kitchen sink pkg or not, but would certainly entertain it as another American made option. Decisions decisions...
  10. Hello Everyone, thanks for checking out this listing. I am moving another direction in my leather work and am needing a different sewing machine. I have this one timed perfectly and the tension for the top and bottom thread is superb. I am located in Springfield, MO. Willing to pack and ship at buyers expense. Serious inquiries only please. Email me with any questions for a quicker response at philliphedlund@gmail.com. Read on for whats included!
  11. I recently (one month ago) got a Cobra Class 4 machine and I haven't been able to get it adjusted correctly yet. Is there a troubleshooting guide out there that shows pictures that say if your machine is doing this then try this? I did 3 passes the first two left to right and the 3rd right to left. I changed the needle between the first and second pass. Thread size 277 needle size 25 (passes 2 and 3 with S point)on a single layer of 12oz saddle skirting. The back side looks pretty good but the front looks awful.
  12. Like new Cobra Class 4 premium package. Used less than 1 hour. I had a holster business and Tandy Leather dealership years ago. Thought I would get back into it and changed my mind. Machine, several spools of thread (black, brown etc.). I have an extra motor/tabletop for the sewing machine. These items are included with the machine: Premium Accessory Package: Left Toe Presser Foot $75* Open Toe Center Foot $65* Double Toe Presser Foot $80* Right Toe Presser Foot $75* Work Platform $95* Holster Plate $156* Stirrup Plate $156* Slotted Plate $85* Blanket Set (Inside & Outside Feet w/ Feed Dog) $150* Heavy Duty Roller Edge Guide $95* Pair of Thread Nippers $2* LDA-1 Magnetic LED Light $20* $2200 , local pickup (Pensacola Fl), Will deliver within 200 miles for a fee. It is located in my hobby shop - Hobby Central, easily verified
  13. As little as two years ago, there was a significant lower price incentive for buying Cowboy sewing machines over comparable model Cobra sewing machines. Now that the price of Cowboy sewing machines have jumped up, they are virtually the same price as their comparable Cobra model sewing machines. So my question is: Is there any benefit of buying a Cowboy sewing machine over a Cobra sewing machine? Example Cowboy CB3500 ($2,595 at time of writing) vs Cobra Class 3 ($2,635 at time of writing). To me, for $40 more, why not go with the Cobra. I'd love to know thoughts either way.
  14. I'd mentioned it the other day when I received the mailer, but in case you hadn't heard, I find it interesting that Tandy is now selling Cobra machines. Not affiliated in any way. Here is the mailer I received last week: This morning I just received an email from Tandy about it on their website, which is new, fyi: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/tandypro-cobra-machines.html Anyway, I really like the Cobra machines, so I found this an interesting twist in the direction Tandy is going.
  15. Looking for a nice, used cobra 4 sewing machine! Does anyone know of someone who could help? I live in Columbus Ohio. if you have one you want to sell, please let me know!
  16. What Exactly is an EPS? Cobra Steve, Leather Machine Co., explains what an EPS (Electronic Positioning System) is, and how it can help you do a better job sewing leather. Be sure to watch the video too!
  17. Like new Cobra Class 4 premium package. Used less than 1 hour. I had a holster business and Tandy Leather dealership years ago. Thought I would get back into it and changed my mind. Machine, several spools of thread (black, brown etc.), tool box, maule, punches, knives, bevelers, swivel knife, HD stamp/rivet press, dies for press, Clicker Dies: two types of western holsters, iwb, pancake, foldover for small caliber, cowboy cuffs (2), gun belt buckle and tongue dies, rounder, practice piece, arrow head, spur straps, iwb leather belt loop. These are high quality clicker dies with almost no wear. YOU DO NOT NEED A CLICKER TO USE DIES - you simply lay the die on concrete or other hard surface (blade up), place you leather over the die and tap around the die with a maul or mallet. In minutes you have a perfect cut out. The concealment holster dies are not shown and are steel rule/plywood dies. The press is not shown either. I forgot to mention that I have an extra motor/tabletop for the sewing machine. Also some gun molds (red gun and Duncan alum) $3800. These items are included with the machine: Premium Accessory Package: Left Toe Presser Foot $75* Open Toe Center Foot $65* Double Toe Presser Foot $80* Right Toe Presser Foot $75* Work Platform $95* Holster Plate $156* Stirrup Plate $156* Slotted Plate $85* Blanket Set (Inside & Outside Feet w/ Feed Dog) $150* Heavy Duty Roller Edge Guide $95* Pair of Thread Nippers $2* LDA-1 Magnetic LED Light $20* Owner and parts manual
  18. Like new. Only about two months old. Don't need it as much as I thought I did. The Cobra Class 20 is a flatbed machine perfectly suited for book covers, liners, bags and sheaths with its compound feed walking foot, servo motor and speed reducer. Boasting a 9/16” (14mm) capacity, the Cobra Class 20 uses thread sizes 46 - 207. This machine is great for beginners because of the speed reducer - you can sew at full torque at virtually any speed! It is one of the most versatile machines on the market and includes needles, threads, a thread stand, extra bobbins, tool kit, and comprehensive manual. Also comes with edge guide. $2000.00
  19. Up for sale is my lightly used, like new, leather splitter. I purchased this splitter mainly to reduce the thickness of the 6 oz scrap leather left over from making tote bags. The thought was that I could thin the leather to be used for wallets and small accessories. However, I just never grew that aspect of my business. Now I have a barely used splitter and way too much scrap leather! Cobra Class 14 Leather Splitter - 14" blade - Servo motor with reverse - Speed reducing pulley - Heavy duty stand on locking casters - Located in Cumming, GA (Metro Atlanta) Asking $1975.00 - reasonable offers will be entertained Shipping to be arranged for by buyer, but I'm willing to assist however I can. Delivery available if in the Metro Atlanta area. Please let me know if I can answer any questions!
  20. I'm new to working with a Cobra Class 3 sewing machine. I bought it new and have barely used it. I need help with setting up the tension on it. I have it messed up and I keep breaking the thread. Any mentors out there that can help a newbie? I just moved and want to set up the machine again, but was frustrated with the problems I was having. Any good instructional videos out there?
  21. Although this machine is probably around 9 years old it is really like brand new, it was only used for a couple small projects, well maintained. Comes with the removable table, set of feet, belt guide, lamp, extra bobbins. $2500.
  22. We're changing things around in the shop and going to sell the Cobra 4. Only 5 years old, not used very much, well maintained. Comes with the removable table, set of feet, belt guide, lamp, extra bobbins. $2200. Shipping will probably run $250.
  23. Hello, I bought my Cobra Class 26 3 week ago (NEW). It´s really nice machine, and I like it a lot. But I have problems with servo motor and controlling the sewing speed. When i set speed on for example 15. I cannot sew slowly. When I press foot pedal, just a little bit it, sews immediately fast. And when i set speed on 5, it sews slow, but sometime accelerates for few stitches (like on number 10), and than slow again. But my foot pedal is still. Maybe you have some suggestions what can i do? I tried a lot, but probably not everything. Thanks a lot and have a nice day
  24. Hello everyone, I found this forum a while ago but this will be my first post. I only had my Cobra class 26 for about 2 weeks but I love how this machine functions, I'm learning every day more things about it. My problem (well other then learning how to stitch better with it) is that the presser foot marks the material, on chrome tan is not that noticeable but on some of the vegetable tan sometimes it marks it pretty bad, is there something I can do to not marker it that bad, or maybe a new foot I can buy for this purpose? Thanks everyone. P.S. I tried to search for this on the forum but I couldn't really find anything.
  25. Hello! I desperately need a leather sewing machine and I've done a lot of research and simply cannot decide what's best. I mostly make handbags with leather and heavy canvas, and I've been doing a combination of sewing what I can on my Janome HD 3000 (great for apparel sewing but can only handle about 1/4" of leather at most) and then hand sewing like crazy. I'm fairly convinced that a cylinder bed would be best for my needs. I've read great things about the Cobra Class 4 and the Cowboy 4500, but I worry that they won't sew well with lighter weight applications. For instance, I read that the Cobra Class 4 uses thread sizes #138 - #415, but I often need to sew with thread as small as #69 with a 18/110 needle. So then I looked at the Cowboy 3200 and the Cobra Class 3 and Class 26. They seem more reasonable in terms of sewing lighter weight leathers but the fact that they all have only about a 10" arm seems like a ridiculously small amount of clearance. I was tempted to buy a Singer Cobbler Patcher 29 found near me on craigslist, but I do occasionally need to sew through 3/8" or even 1/2" and it apparently can't handle that on a regular basis. I'm also having trouble finding dealers on the east coast. I live in Maine, so if someone could direct me toward a good dealer in the Northeast, I would really appreciate it. Thanks so much! Michaela
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