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About Me

Found 33 results

  1. Hello! First post on these forums! I make shoes and boots as a hobby and recently acquired a skiving machine. It's an old machine branded "Moenus". I can't find much information on the company, but I know the company is German and has been around for awhile (I'm not sure if they are still in business). The machine was rebuilt by a machinist and machine enthusiast who dabbles with leather work every now and then. He had replaced all the bearings in the machine and in the motor and repainted both. Judging from the underside of the machine, the colour matches the original paint. I looks like he had even machined some new parts for it, and the machine has a new Fortuna bell knife on it. What I like the most about the machine is the small custom table he had built for it. It has little wheels and even little retractable handles, so it takes up very little space and is easy to move around. As for now, I work in a corner of my small apartment so having a full size skiving machine with a large table was not an option (well, I wouldn't mind but my wife might). My first thought was that it's a re-branded Fortuna, but I have no way of telling for sure. Just from looking at it closely, I can tell that it must be at least 40-50 years old, but I can't find any dates or information on how to read the serial number. It has the original power switch which is made of bakelite. Bakelite hasn't really been used since the 50's as far as I know. The motor is a German one branded "Georgii Kobold" and seems to be original. The motor is set up as 3-phase 380v, but I only have single phase 230v available in my apartment. I might try setting it up with a capacitor (the motor sign says its 220/380v so it should be possible, although it might lose too much power). If I have to use another motor, I think I'll set it up with a continuously running knife and pedal feed on the feed wheel (either with a servo motor or a normal one with scr/pwm power modulation). Making shoe uppers means skiving small curved pieces that require a lot of precision so a slow feed is desirable. I paid 300 euros for the machine which is roughly $345. The price seemed fair considering it's a rebuilt machine, but confirmation on that would be nice, haha. My question is; does anyone have any information on Moenus or this particular machine? I'd love to know how old the machine is. Also, input on dealing with the motor is greatly appreciated. I've included photos of the machine.
  2. joelpete

    Craftool Pro Splitter

    Who has extensive experience with the Craftool Pro Splitter? I want to try my hand at a couple rolled edge wallets but I do not want bulk. I have some Old World Bellies that are about 1.1-1.2mm thick and I'd like to take them down to a fairly consistent 0.8mm (which is still thicker than some of the leather in my Bosca wallets). My Splitter is inbound so I haven't had a chance to play with it yet. So my real questions are, how thin have you been able to go? And, how little have you been able to successfully peel from your stock? Half of a millimeter? Obviously the blade edge matters and milage may vary, I just want to know if anyone has been successful in this area. Thanks, Joel
  3. As promised here are some photos of the Ellegi/Atom GL12 skiving machine I bought and the start of the modifications I want to make. The machine was owned by an older couple closing their shoe making shop and was in great condition. The model I bought has two motors: 1 for the vacuum and 1 clutch motor that runs the blade and feed wheel. The feeding speed was much too fast for my use. As I only paid about 200 euro for it I decided I would try to make the feed wheel independent of the blade. I also wanted to be able to finely control the feed speed, for example being able to very slowly feed the leather in and then gradually increase the speed as I skive. I researched every way possible to add a third motor for the feed wheel. There are three ways you can do this (that I can think of): 1. a direct drive servo directly behind the feed wheel as found in some new machines; 2. a motor underneath the feed pulley on the right of the machine; and 3, a motor on the top of the table behind the feed pulley, again on the right of the machine. Option 1 is far beyond most people's abilities, at lest mine! I tried very hard to make option 2 work but could not. My table has upper cross supports, a lower belt guard and a middle sheet metal "wall" between the operator and clutch motor. The only way I might have made this work was to replace the clutch motor with a small servo. I am too cheap to do this! The clutch motor works great so I want to use that for the blade as long as I can. That left me with option number 3 which is what I went with. I found a new Jake JK-513A servo motor for about $105 from a dealer 5 minutes from where I live. This was cheaper and easier than buying a DC or servo motor, the power supplies, controller etc. It is 550W which is much more power than I need, but the price was right. I recommend a motor where the motor, foot controller and power supply are separate. Without that I could not have done this. My table has so many under supports that I need this flexibility. I removed the belt from the main shaft that goes to the feed pulley. I then mount this motor directly behind it on the table top. It took a little bit of playing with the placement of the motor, the foot controller and power supply and it works! Not elegant, but it is doing what I want The feed is now controlled by the foot pedal and servo speed controller and the blade runs continuously. I have used a machine that had a separate clutch for the feed wheel. This offers even better control than that in my very limited experience! If you have space under your table that would be a better option. Here is someone on Instagram who has done this: Here are some photos. I will post some more when I get a chance. I need to cut a slot in the machine belt cover, mount the belt cover on the motor and buy a few parts for the machine. Hope this helps! -Adam
  4. wrz0170

    Hand skiving help

    Hi everyone. As practice, I was trying to hand skive 1.2-1.4mm leather in preparation for my project which calls for skiving about 1.0mm. I was using a Tandy Super Skiver and well, it sucked. No matter how delicate of a touch that I tried, my cuts were vastly uneven and it pretty much ripped and tore up the edges. Absolutely no uniformity in the cuts. I’m sure some operator fault is there. Skiving is a skill until itself especially with thinner leather. I have to ask; is there a better knife/tool to learn on like a very sharp, straight or slanted skiving knife or even a round knife? I don’t mind putting the time in to practice but if it’s a better knife choice thing, I would rather practice with that Any insights, tips or suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks! William
  5. trailrunner

    Skiving strap ends

    I know that skiving strap ends seems like a simple thing, but what I'm unsure of is where exactly are you supposed to start the skive? I hear so many differing opinions on the proper technique, and I would love to hear from those who are experienced with this. So for a buckle end, some people recommend to skive down the leather only at the very end, so that the part that actually is folded around the buckle is full thickness. This doesn't make sense to me, since skiving is meant to reduce thickness, and the folded part is the thickest part by far. Others recommend starting the skive where the leather is folded, and skiving down to say 6oz, if you have a 12oz strap. But this doesn't make sense to me either, because if the strap is 12oz, and you skive the fold and everything toward the end to 6oz, then its folded over to become 18oz. So wouldn't it be stronger to start the skive before the fold, and skive toward the end, at an even thickness of 9oz? Then you would have two pieces of 9oz leather sewn together, rather than 1 piece of 12oz and one piece of 6oz. This seems like it would be stronger, no? So why do we always see people skive down only one side of the leather to say that's being folded over to say 6oz and leave the other side full thickness, instead of skiving both sides to 9oz? So experienced strap makers, what is the proper way? Thanks in advance
  6. chuckgaudette

    Bell Skiver technique question

    Not sure if this question should go in the machinery section or technique. If I cut a 1 foot square of 2mm leather and skive a half inch along one side it will come out as I intended. Then if I turn the leather to skive the opposite side with the exact same settings the second side may barely skive at all. does this have something to do with the grain of the leather? If so, how do I correct this without readjusting the skiving depth for each side? Thanks
  7. RockyAussie

    Skiving foot roller adaptation

    Here are some videos of skiving with a new roller foot and some of the advantages this roller foot is capable of. Having worked with many various leather types over the years including glazed finished crocodile I found it necessary to have a skiving foot that did not scrape the top surface and allowed leather to go through more smoothly with less friction than the normal supplied feet can give. I made up my first roller foot by cutting down a spare normal foot and making a brass roller to fit onto it. This roller has almost never come off the machine ever since except for the occasional polish and oiling. Steve or on this forum member Singermania kindly provided me a couple of manufactured roller feet to try out. The long one interested me the most as I could see a few applications it could be good for. Unfortunately this foot did not fit straight onto either my Fortuna or FAV skiving machines and some modifications were needed but in the end I think well worth the trouble. The first 2 videos are all about the foot modifications and the last is a bit long but shows me trialling out some skiving operations. I hope these are of some help to any of you that are trying to master their skiving machines. Regards Brian
  8. Close to getting a skiving machine and trying to learn what I can.. Can you all help me understand the different types of presser feet for the basic single motor skiving machines out there? I see most of them come with a 2" non-rolling foot, but I've seen images of other types of skiving presser available. What types of results do these variations yield? Wondering which I should look for and add to my want list. Thanks for the help!!
  9. Hi! I'm going crazy here! I have a 1000/3000 whetstone and stropping block. I have two Japanese skiving knives. I can get my knives sharp on stone. Then I strop..then test..still sharp. But, when I pass the knife a few times through my 3.5 oz chrome leather (on top of treated granite..and tried glass) the knives dull! I've tried not stripping...and my sharpness still doesn't last. I can't possible have to sharpen throughout the day..I must not be doing something right. Any tips from anyone? Thanks!
  10. Hi All, My name is Sonya and I'm new to this site and forum. The company that I work for just purchased a FAV AV2 Skiver. We have messed up the original settings on the machine and now I am unable to skive. Originally when we bought the machine it was skiving great. However, when we started using different types of leather, we had to adjust the feed roller, foot pedal etc. Since making these accommodations for the different leathers, we are unable to feed the leather through as well as it's not skiving. When I do get the blade to engage to skive, it eats the leather. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you, Sonya
  11. VieuxHalloo

    Skiving Service

    Looking for someone to skive several pieces down to 3 oz.
  12. We offer full service cut and sew of a variety of soft-goods and leather-goods. We also offer individual services like clicking, skiving, hot-stamping, debossing and scissor and knife sharpening. Our batch sizes started pretty small and we have competitive rates on these services to ensure they are accessible to small-scale businesses and even hobbyists. If you'd like to find out more about us or get a quote on a project, email Hannah at: info@davis-peterson.com Visit our website to see more of what we do: www.davis-peterson.com
  13. I'm selling my Cobra NP-4 skiver with servo motor, including table with wheels for $1,000 or best offer. I would keep it but unfortunately, I need to make room in my already-too-small apartment for the upcoming arrival of our first son. I've only used the skiver 3 or 4 times, for a total of less than 1-2 hours, so it's practically new and pretty quiet. I have the original box it came in as well. Pickup only in San Francisco.
  14. I would like to skive/split and finish some entire sides of Hermann Oak leather. I'd like to get them down to 3 oz (from 8-10oz) with a good, clean looking back. Does anyone know of a place that would offer this service? (I'm aware Wicket & Craig does this in-house for their leathers, but I haven't heard the same for Hermann Oak) Thanks!
  15. piheart

    consew dcs-3 or cobra np4

    any suggestion from experienced leatherworkers? have been reading about skiving machine for long time, hard to decide which one should get .
  16. I was idly searching YouTube recently when I came across these videos Obviously English is not their first language, and there are other, similar videos, but nevertheless they are helpful and add to our knowledge & experience 'Sharpening leather knife by sandpaper, no have whetstone' 'Making knife by HSS blade in home, Homemade & DIY' 'Leather Skiving by Leather knife include FAIL' 'Leather Skiving by Leather Plane' all by dori thasi
  17. Huckering

    Fortschritt Skiving Machine

    Rare Fortschritt Leather Skiving Machine - Fortuna Type $1000 This is a very rare german made leather skiving machine. It cuts a wide range of skives because it has a long curved presser foot that can be adjusted a number of ways to get different angles and widths. The machine is in excellent working shape, see a sample skive photo below. There is cosmetic wear as this is an old machine. If you want a machine with great bones and a great history, this is what you are looking for. I purchased this a couple years ago from a leatherworker in Nyack, NY. He owned it since the mid 70s but it has not been used since 1995ish. Prior to him owning the machine, this skiver was used to manufacture NYC firemen's helmets in a manhattan factory. The machine is mounted on a converted wooden sewing machine table and is run with a clutch motor and leather and rubber belts. This is comparable to fortuna machines and parts such as Bell knife, sharpening stone, rollers, presser feet should be interchangeable with parts easily found on ebay if necessary down the road. Everything on it right now still appears to have plenty of life left. I will also include a heavy metal roller tool for compressing turned/glued edges. Local pickup only in Ridgewood, NJ. You may inspect items prior to purchase. Payment Methods - cash / money order / bank check only Thanks very much! The website is not letting me upload photos, so if you are interested, PM me and I'll send you a Craigslist link to photos.
  18. Did anyone ever try to build a skiving machine? I cannot afford spending CDN$750 plus tax on a used bell knife skiving machine which would be the most economical option. But I have a welder son, a lathe and a 3500 RPM 450 Wt motor from a dishwasher. I want to try building a machine with a flat rotary knife and bought a HSS slitting saw blade off eBay, this one: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/80mm-OD-3mm-Thickness-72T-HSS-Milling-Cutter-Slitting-Saw-Blade-/351220948325?hash=item51c6665d65:g:Qw0AAOSwyQtV4dxW with the intent to grind off the teeth and sharpen it to a concave shape, then mount it on the motor shaft. The motor would be mounted at about 20-30 degree angle so that the blade would cut off just the strip at the edge that I need. I did not plan how exactly to guide leather through the knife and adjust the guide, it's in the contemplating stage yet. Any critique or tips?
  19. Brand New Scharffix 2000 Leather Paring Device For Sale. Sensible Offers Considered Long story short, UPS delivered this late and I had to forfeit the commission for which it was purchased. Outside of this project, I do not have a use for this tool. Unfortunately, the company I bought it from want to charge me $80 to return the product, and so before doing so, I thought I would offer it for sale here. This tool has never been used, and comes in its original box, with instructions, spare blades, and adjustment wrench. Scharffix tools are made in Germany and as such are of very high quality. I was very impressed with how well made it is! For those of you who aren't familiar with this tool, Schmedt, the makers of the tool, have a video here. Skip to 1.26 to see this tool in action. I'm understandably looking to recoup as much as my original expenditure as possible and will consider sensible offers. Please let me know if you would like any further details or images. Nick
  20. theoregoner

    How Thick Will It Get?

    Will "pasted flesh" make leather thicker? I'm looking to buy some leather from Wickett & Craig and have it skived down to 2oz. I have the option of having it refinished and pasted, but I'm curious if the paste application will make the leather much thicker. - How much thicker will paste make the leather? - Also, will paste make the leather stiffer? more durable? Thanks for the help!
  21. rhinez0r

    Skiving Watch Straps?

    Hey all, I've been doing my watch strap ends with the Tandy Safety beveller, but I wonder if there's a better way? I skive the ends where they wrap around for the pin and buckle. Could I use a machine like this splitter to get more uniform skives? I'm working with 4oz CXL as well. Any thoughts or suggestions?
  22. Johanna

    Leather Skiving Machines

    Cobra Steve of Leather Machine Co. has put together an informational page about Skiving Machines with a video too! Thanks for sharing, Steve!
  23. Hello everyone! I'm rather new around here, and after reading a bit and getting some practice with spare leather pieces I decided to begin the real work by making a simple wallet. I'd like to show all the steps here to help other beginners like me and, more importantly, ask doubts to all the kind, handsome, wise and experienced craftsmen around :-) 1 - Choices, choices... I found a simple and nice folding wallet that I liked at a shop in my neighborhood. After silently staring at it like a lunatic for about 45 minutes I made a little sketch : 1.1-Material I'm on a mariana-trench-level budget but I got some ok scraps from a tanner (Is that how it's called?? Where they sell leather hides?? :-S ), some black ones and a big beige piece. No idea of the animal or type, but they'll do right now :-) It's not a very thick material so I won't be sewing by hand, but by machine. I'll try to follow this type of process: That means skiving the leather to finish the sides, either with a hand tool or using a dremel. QUESTION: In the video they use "water based glue". Any idea of which could that be? I'll be using a regular one that I can find easily, anyway. FABRIC: Should I use cotton, nylon, polyester...? All the wallets I've looked into seem to have some kind of nylon fabric. Next steps: drawing the pattern (using autocad), uploading some photos of the leather.
  24. Huckering

    Fortschritt Skiver Guidance

    I have a lead on a fortschritt skiver with table and clutch motor that used to be in an old factory that made firemen's hats in NYC. The buyer is asking $500 which seems to be a pretty fair price to me compared to cost of new chinese made machines. I saw it operational last night and it seems to be working reasonably well. My questions: Is there anything specific that I should look at that wears out over time? Belts and knife seem. Are fortschritt skivers interchangable with other skiver parts? Bell knife, feed wheel, etc? Are there any online resources that you can point me to in regards to maintainence/rebuild of this type of machine? Does $500 seem like a fair price? Thanks
  25. hockeykspiky

    Where Can I Split Leather?

    Hi, Does anyone know where I can get my leather split and reduce the thickness?