Danne

Maybe Jaeger or NST?

I sand the edge transition diagonally with sand paper, since it's just a small bevel I find it easier to round it off with sand paper than an edge beveler.

I have been using Fenice for a long time, and the durability have been good on some leathers, other not so good. On dense chrome tanned leathers very durable, but I've had peeling edges at folds on wallets where I used vegetable tanned cow leather. I will evaluate some brands with and without primer other with just edge paint (Where it's less common to use a primer) I will also experiment with different heat, different edge finish to start with. (And of course if the producer have a SOP available, I will test that method as close as I can) And then "stress test" the pieces when fully cured (bending, stretching, scratching, trying to peel of the paint and such) So what brands will I evaluate? Uniters: With and without EP-sealer, I have tried Uniters before, but I think the products I have got frozen during shipping, because I did order it in the winter, and from my tests the adhesion is very good, but hard folding results in small micro cracks, and this is a problem that I haven't heard anyone else have. Stahl C427: Heatable edge paint that is used without primer, I might also test their edge paint PH54 with the primer PH53 Fenice: With their primer AR6250 Vernis 600: This is the test I did today, four coats of paint separated with heat and sanding and finished with beeswax polishing, the difference between the two pieces are the edge I start with, one is sanded with P180, the other up to P400 before the first coat of paint.

It's certainly from some machine in the production at the tannery, I have seen this on especially chrome tanned leathers, and also on high quality leather. Before I did split my Haas Zermatt leather it has a similar pattern on the flesh side. Here are a sample piece of Perlinger Noblessa calf.

Thank you, but 1mm thick will not work for me with these kinds of templates. I need an edge closer to the leather to cut against. But that material can still be useful in other situations. I do use Sookwang score tape now with good results.

I only have answer to this, I think it's because most of the world is metric, so hole punches in metric sizes will be more common. I guess there are imperial hole punch brands in US? Stitching chisels are usually both in mm and spi (stitches/inch) As example, I do small leather goods, and have 3mm/9spi, 2.7mm/10spi, 2.45mm/11spi irons.

Yes, I have tried a couple of brands, this is the one I like the most. It's not colored, it's two pieces of leather, orange and dark brown. Tricky to hand cut though. Thank you

Hi, thank you for your answer Yes Nitz use Uniters and no primers, I'm sure his edges are very durable, but he also doesn't work with oily/waxy veg tan. Yes, a good and durable way to finish edges.

Either no one use Uniters here, or people can't bother to share their opinions and knowledge. Sometimes it feels like I should stop sharing and helping other here. Sorry for being grumpy..

Hi, I see you are from Sweden. I haven't used Serafil, but I have ordered other things from Colliniatomi, and they have good prices on that thread, and a lot of colors. https://www.colliniatomi.it/en/production-materials/threads.html Do you use machine or handstitch? If you stitch by hand doesn't Serafil unravel? Serafil will be way more durable than Meisi superfine linen, the reason to choose linen thread is because of the look. I hand stitch and I used linen thread before (FAC and Meisi linen) but I had to restitch wallets and card holders after around 2 years if someone had them in their jeans pocket. I have found the thread that suit me very well. Meisi Xiange twist (It's a polyester thread, but doesn't have that typical synthetic look) Keep in mind there are two versions of Xiange, twist and braid, braid have a different look. Maybe you have seen it already, but Meisi also sell inside EU (So no import duties) http://meisi108.eu/ When I did contact them on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/meisi108/ a couple of years back they did send free samples of their threads. A couple of full spools, like Meisi superfine, Xiange twist, and some other spools, and also a lot of small samples in like 5 meter. And one color catalogue with thread samples in different weights. (I don't know if they ship this from EU or China, but at the time you had to pay for shipping only. Ps, look through my posts and try to see which thread I used. I have only used FAC 632 linen, Meisi linen and Meisi Xiange twist.

I have been using Fenice for a long time, but I have decided to give Uniters a chance again. I find Fenice very easy to use. The downside is that there are no solutions to match colors (Uniters have their Sherlock reader, a rebranded NIX color sensor, that will give you the formula from their base colors) I haven't worked with waxy oily leathers, so I haven't used any primers (Like AR 6250/P, UW 13/8, UW 13/9 which I guess are the more popular ones from Fenice) But I feel like I would need to use something for veg tan leathers also, because of the grain, it peels on folds on wallets in veg tan cow exterior, and I guess it's because the grain isn't as dense as chrome tanned leathers. Also even if my watch straps hold up fine, I do have a little bit of peeling problems, like layers of edge paint peel from each other (not from the leather) But this is not what I want to discuss. I know some people here use Uniters EP2000 (standard viscosity version of EP2000) Do you need any EP-sealer or EP-fibre glue (resellers sell them under other names sometimes) or how do EP2000 alone hold up one veg tan, and oily waxy leathers? (And to not get answers that are confusing, if it peels from oily waxy leathers, do you use other methods than a thin first coat with buffing or heating with electric creaser? (And sanding) Please share your opinions about Uniters. And btw, I struggle with getting a good finish, and for some reason the sanding dust makes brighter colored leather with a pronounced grain very dirty, and also stain thread, and I have to work hard to clean it. I haven't seen anyone complain about this, not sure if it's the sandpaper type I use that result in a "particle size" that sticks to everything. For P180 sand paper I have two different version, but for finer grits like P400 I use Mirka silicone carbide.

I'm quite certain they use Sookwang score tape (It's made in Korea) I use it with good results on finished leather and semi-aniline veg tan. It does adhere really well to paper, but doesn't stick like crazy to these kinds of leathers, and doesn't leave any residue or impact the finish. I often use some kind of regular one sided tape, either for a glue line, or for the end of where I need to rough the grain and assemble something. And like regular scotch tape will dull the finish on a lot of finished leather (Like Alran goat, see my photo where I had used that transparent scotch tape to hold the pieces together while gluing it to the backing leather, since it was two pieces of leather, sure I could polish it and it got away) This sookwang tape doesn't have that problem, I usually make it a little bit weaker in strength before I use it (Put it on a piece of leather and pull it away a couple of times) From the photos of my templates I put back the protection tape, but I plan to buy some sheets of silicone release paper, so I can stick my templates to that when I'm finished with my project, to protect the tape. I can try on aniline veg tan if that's what you use? It's really thin, and easy to remove the release paper. Another good solution to avoid templates sliding around (if you use card paper templates) is to coat the back side with water based contact cement and let it fully dry, it leaves a rubbery surface. An example how regular transparent scotch tape dull the finish (You have to open it full size and look the middle and you see how it's "dull" in the middle.

Even though I paint all my edges, I still burnish, like I burnish the edges during the edge painting process for example to smooth out texture on leather so I get an even edge when painting. And I also burnish after melting wax on edges. And a good example are keepers on watch straps. I either hold them down with a ruler close to an edge or on that block I showed you, or I use a large piper clip with glued leather around the edges so I don't leave marks. Looking forward to see your machining project. And a Datron isn't really a hobby machine lol. And that Tormach seems to be a quite good machine also (no cheap hobby machine either)

I have an edge painting guide (I'm no expert, but it results in nice edges) If you burnish, you can do it while holding it down against an edge, like this. (see photo) Yes, I want to see the making process of the buckle. I used to program lathes back in the days, I wish I had a small cnc mill though. A five axis Datron C5 would be nice

Yes, it's correct. The temper of the leather, the weight of the leather, and hole size/shape and thread thickness will have an impact on the stitching. Like a soft leather will be more sensitive to difference in tension, and a difference in tension will result in different look on the stitch. Some firm thicker leathers will not be that picky about tension or tension angle difference. When you stitch really thin and soft leather then both tension and tension angles becomes very important, just a small change in tension or angle will change how the stitch look. To make it even more complicated, if one side is a soft leather and the other side is firm, you might have to use different tension on either side. A tip, if you start a project make an extra piece of the same leathers and do a stitching test run first.