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About Danne

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    Making wallets and watch straps.
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  1. Danne

    Watch strap lining

    Nice and looks like a suitable thickness for that watch. I have never used Texon. I use reinforcements from Freudenberg, Stilla and Jaeger
  2. Danne

    Watch strap lining

    I make my straps from top layer 1mm, and lining 1mm, if I want thicker straps I can build it up with padding or full widths layers of leather in the middle. But if I had a splitting solution, sure I would make some thicker straps with like 1.5mm top layer and 1.5mm lining. But the thing is a lot of watch cases don't have clearance (between the case and the spring bar) enough for 1.5mm so that's also something to take into consideration. Edit: Depending on the type of strap I also add reinforcement. For a flat strap I add 0.2mm reinforcement to the top layer the whole length. On padded straps I reinforce the lining and around the folds, but in those cases I use thinner reinforcement, and usually not all the way out to the edges except at the folds, if that make sense. Also it depends on the leather you are using. A veg tan strap in 1mm top layer and 1mm zermatt lining is quite durable, but it will over time stretch both at the long part with the holes, and at the lugs and leave a small gap. (If not reinforced at all) There are probably exceptions here, like I haven't worked with Shell Cordovan, it might not stretch at the lugs at 1mm.
  3. Danne

    Watch strap lining

    I prefer Haas Zermatt. It's available in two colors natural and black. (You can't buy from Haas unless you want to buy 70m2/color.) The only reseller I know that have it in black is RML. Degermann also produce Zermatt and another lining called Vat-alsavel in four colors (See photo) I have never tried Vat-alsavel, but I really like Haas Zermatt. You can see photos of this lining on my imgur. Or you can look at Hermès watch straps, they use Zermatt. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/haas-zermatt-calf-leather-3-0-oz-1-2mm-made-in-france?variant=13776240935021 Degermann - Vat alsavel A photo of the Zermatt lining on my latest bund strap.
  4. Also wouldn't Nubuck or Alcantara be more durable over time? (I get if you don't want to use Alcantara though, because it's not leather) but at the same time it's reason it's used in car interiors (even in the most exclusive brands)
  5. Danne

    Oval punches

    I would say it's better to do the template with paper. I usually use laser photo paper (A little more durable and thicker) And when you have made the holes in the template, align it carefully, and just push down your hole punch with your hands to leave an impression in the leather, and when you remove your template it's easy to align. If you make a line in the middle you can use a let's say 20mm for all templates and align it to the middle of the belt with a ruler/caliper/wingdiver and on a belt you can put some weights on the template when you mark through your template. I show you an example on a test piece. This is relatively thin leather so no room for large weights so used a small hammer, but no problem just holding it down. Those holes are perfectly centered. Holes aren't that nice though, night here in Europe so didn't want to wake up neighbours so pushed the punch through. I don't have any oval punches, but it will work fine with oval punches too, because when you make the impression you feel when your punch is in the correct place and you punch your hole.
  6. Danne

    Making a strop - which leather to use?

    I'm certainly not expert on making strops, and I don't think anyone have to be an expert. So let's start with the question, what do you want from a strop? 1. A surface that is relatively flat 2. Something that isn't to soft (It will round over your edge very quick if it's too soft. I bought some wood with an even finished (planed and sanded? woodworking terminology is not my thing) I used it to build a stitching horse and a leather strop. And I used 1mm leather with a flat a relatively stiff surface, glued it with contact cement and use a roller from the middle and out. Cut the excess leather off and used some neatsfoot oil and green compound (chrome oxide) Is this the correct way to do a strop? Yes, ALL the ways that work good to strop your knives are the correct ways.
  7. Danne

    Watch bund strap

    Thanks, I haven't seen that channel before. Really looks like a channel for me, all clips on that channel seems interestings to watch.
  8. Danne

    Oval punches

    It's a simple solution for that. Print a template (Or draw a template on paper) punch the holes in the paper template. Then you can align it to your belt. push down your hole punch by hand to make an impression, remove template and punch holes. Just a quick drawing (not to scale) just to show how I mean. I don't make belts, but watch straps. And when I see those multi hole punches from Ksblade and such, if I made a lot of straps it would be nice to have some of them. But I think it's also important to be able to do the same things without special tools, because what to do you when you get that order with a hole size or distance between holes that doesn't match up with your "multi punch" ? The same with strap points. Yes it can be quick and nice to have a strap end punch, but I also think it's important to learn how to cut that point by hand.
  9. Danne

    Watch bund strap

    I really would like to make my own watch. I have a background in cnc programming. And it would be fun to buy a cheap mechanical clockwork, maybe something like a Seagull ST36 (ETA6497 clone) and machining a cool case, buy a Chinese pad printer and make a nice custom dial. Would this be a challenge for me? yes for sure, especially since my machining knowledge is mostly lathes, and have very limited experience with cnc-mills. But unfortunately I don't have access to a cnc mill. And convert a cheap Chinese mill won't really cut it (lol both literally and as an idom) with harder steels.
  10. Danne

    Watch bund strap

    I have never done it before, except for trying on an old Rolex replica I bought for fun to see how cheap I could get it (No I never used it and will never) And it wasn't that hard. But the chronograph hands will not be easy not even with the hands puller I have. They are so small, But magnifying, and either Rodico (Google) or some thin plastic (to protect the dial) and loosen them with two really small screwdrivers from each side will for sure work fine. The hardest part isn't removing the watch hands it's doing it without leaving any trace of the work And I will not use the black plier with blue handles in the bottom right corner, but the one in the top left corner which is a really slim smd-plier. (Primarely used for surface mounted components on pcb-boards.) But I can update here how it goes when it's time and I have decided a good technique for painting the seconds hand (I want it close to perfect) Because yes of course I can make mistakes, doing something this small for the first time can always result in mistakes, but I ten to plan things very well before I start so I think it will be fine.
  11. I actually think a lot of people have been scared away from leathercraft because they have bought tools from Tandy. Someone who is new to this craft and want to try it out shouldn't buy really expensive tools, not only because it can be a waste of money if they decide this craft is nothing for them, because it often result in buying tools you don't need. A good example is pricking/stitching irons. I started with the Japanese style, and if I would have bought a really expensive set I would later have sold it, because I finally decided I like the European style. And that decision isn't easy to make before you have tried this craft for a while. Some tools is possible to improve by reshaping/polish them. Some tools even require this. For example a Vergez Blanchard awl is basically useless when you buy it and before you polish (and reshape it depending on how you will use it) ps. I don't recommend Vergez Blanchard tools, there are better alternatives out there for the money. But when it comes to beginner tools, they HAVE TO be at least possible to use "out of the box" And that's often not the case with Tandy's tools (Yes I understand they have tools that work decent, but they also sell a lot of useless tools, and I really mean useless, unless you reshape them) I have talked both about their stitching irons and hole punch sets before, and especially the hole punch set, I would go as long as say it's fraud to call them hole punches. Is it possible to make a hole in leather with them? yes it is, but it is with a thick steel pipe too if you punch/press hard enough. For small leathergoods I would rather use stitching irons from Aliexpress for like 2usd instead of Tandys set. I would recommend to stay away from Tandy, and look at Japanese budget tools, some of these tools are available in Us and Europe, but I really recommend leathercrafttools.com/ I have spent a decent amount of money on tools during the years, and have some really expensive but I still use a lot of those cheaper Japanese tools, would I like to replace some of them? yes, and why? I would for example like some nice handmade skiving knives and awls. So the reason is not that they don't do the job.
  12. Danne

    Store solvent based glue

    I don't think so, but I really like Renia Ortec. I try the rubber seal with acetone and xylene, if it doesn't get dissolved in that I doubt the glue will. I've had the rubber in acetone for a couple of hours no, and it's not affecting the rubber. No I will try with Xylene too. Here are the solvents and the hazardous components Renia Ortec: Same as the thinner but also Rosin, colophony. Renia Thinner: Ethyl acetate, Naphtha, Cyclohexane
  13. Danne

    Store solvent based glue

    Yes, I would really like smaller bottles, but I have tried a decent amounts of solvent based glue, and i'm not happy with the adhesion to reinforcement materials for watch straps. The only one that work good is Renia Ortec. The other versions is either to stringy, or doesn't adhere that well. No Toluene in this, I don't wear any eye protection or gloves, but I do use a respirator mask.
  14. Danne

    Watch bund strap

    Thank you, I share some more photos when I have changed the clockwork and repainted the seconds hand. I will probably remove the old lumen paint and don't apply it again, because good quality lumen is like 80euro, and I don't think it's worth spending that money on an old watch.
  15. Danne

    Store solvent based glue

    I just did a test. I put a small piece of industrial rubber mat in acetone (Will test it in Xylene too) and see if it dissolves, and I made a new gasket for my jar. It might work.