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About Danne

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    Making wallets and watch straps.
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  1. Danne

    Sealing (Not Burnishing) Chromexcel Edges

    Even if it's difficult to burnish, wouldn't some beeswax or Tokonole at least seal the edge from moisture? Or you can paint them. I have no experience with waxy/oily leathers. But there are products out there, like adhesion promoters and such.
  2. Danne

    I bought a band-knife splitter

    If you bought a refurbished machine, it would be nice at first, but soon you would probably discover you need to learn how everything works, all those small important adjustments you need to do. A new Camoga like the Camoga Compact have automatic knife trend setting. Easy to replace knife, and switch between roll/bar. But I’m sure the build quality is not like the old machines.
  3. Danne

    I bought a band-knife splitter

    "I've spent about 5-6% the cost of a new machine on this one." Wow, sounds like you made a really good deal. Regarding splitting with a skiving machine. As I said I have no experience there either. But I have seen people split leather with good results. (Softer leather like chevre sully or alligator and such.) I have seen different types of presser feet, some have slightly rounded edges. I would really appreciate the pdf-manuals you have. I really hope you get this machine into full working condition.
  4. Danne

    New stitching irons

    My guess is that prongs have a flat surface where it’s screwed. But It’s very small screws. I didn’t have a small enough tool at home otherwise I would have been able to answer both if it’s a flat surface and if loctite is used.
  5. Danne

    New stitching irons

    I have 3mm/9spi and I'm really happy with them. But I just made an order from KevinLee 10+11SPI Ksblade don't sell 11SPI so I thought I try KevinLee. If I remember correct they don't share which steel they use. But my tools stay sharp, and I haven't heard from anyone that their prongs get bent. If you need to change prongs you have to send your tool to Ksblade. I bought 2,5,10 prong I don't use the 5 prong that often so in case I would need to replace a prong I could "borrow" one from my 5 prong, and get that replaced. This way I'm not without irons the time it take to ship it back and forth. It's probably easy to change a prong. Maybe they use some loctite on the crew (if so you may need heat to loosen it.)
  6. Danne

    New stitching irons

    I would rather spend 180usd (2+8 3mm/spi) from Ksblade. Where I know I get good steel quality.
  7. Danne

    I bought a band-knife splitter

    My experience with splitting machines is "I have seen a machine one time" But I have worked a lot with old machines with high tolerances, and also worked as a CNC-programmer. And I hope to find an old Fortuna splitting machine. Preferably something broken that needs repair. (I don't need one, since this is my hobby, and I'm looking for a bell knife skiving machine too, which is a lot less complicated and would work as a splitter for my smaller projects (Wallets, watch straps) So the time it would take me to repair it and "figure out" the machine doesn't matter. When I read your answer to Matt, it's clear you have good knowledge of these machines. Your machine work because you understand HOW it works. Of course what you say make sense. why should he have someone to manufacture those "adjustment parts" for him? A better solution would be to ask a shop to regrind his wear guides together with a surface grinder when needed? If you have a user manual and/or parts list/exploded view of any band knife splitting machine it would be very interesting to look through them if you want to share. Btw, thanks for sharing your knowledge here, I find it very interesting.
  8. Danne

    I bought a band-knife splitter

    I really like to follow your work on this splitter, and I'm looking forward to updates. Do you have an exploded view/parts list of the gibs and "guides" It would be nice with individual adjustment for the gibs. I'm thinking something like this (If i understand the construction correctly.) This way you could regrind your "guides" individually if needed.
  9. Danne

    Edge Creasing Iron

    I bought a machine from Mando around 2 years ago. M3000 transformer + handle was around 270euro (+vat if you live in Europe) And of course you need some irons too. S05H (For smoothing edges and melting wax?) and a versatile creaser is FN2.
  10. Danne

    What's your favorite skiving tool?

    The tools you have is not going to work on most skiving knives. Your wood chisels have straight edges, most skiving knives don't. Your tool clamps the edges, the tool from Etsy clamp on the flat surface of the blade. Regarding the grits, it's not that important in my opinion. If I sharpen my skiving knife with 1000 - 2000 - 2500 I can skive my edges without a problem, but if I go higher in grits it's less friction when I skive. "My head is already so full of new leather knowledge that I can't even sort out the sharpening tools" Yes I can see that in your profile picture :D
  11. Danne

    What's your favorite skiving tool?

    Or maybe something like this? https://www.etsy.com/listing/225648750/skiving-knife-sharpener-toolleather I'm planning to buy something similar and three stones. One SK11 150-600 (For restoring edges) and two Shapton Kuromaku 1000 and 5000 Cry once?
  12. I think I did a tutorial like this a couple of years ago, but I've learned a lot since then. There are no correct way to paint edges, but there are some DON'TS. What you shouldn't do 1. Burnish edges with Tokonole or similar agents before painting. You can dry burnish before paint but you have to sand before applying paint. 2. Make too large bevels on really tight folds (Your paint will stretch until it cracks) 3. Paint a new layer on a surface that's not flat (Except the first layer) TOOLS/MATERIALS 1. Edge paint: This is Fenice, good alternatives are Uniters, Giardini, Stahl, Vernis 600, Beraud CT. Especially Uniters seems very popular, but I stay with Fenice since I'm used to this paint, and I get good results. 2. Edge beveler: This is a Kyoshin Elle size 0. 3. Creaser: This is a Fileteuse from Regad, and a FN2 iron for creasing, and S05H for heating/smoothing edges, and melting paraffin. A Fileteuse is a big investment and manual alternatives (Heat over alcohol lamp) like Wuta works really good for both creasing and smoothing edges. If you don't have anything of this, you can skip this step and use friction with a heavy cloth after the first layer of paint. 4. Paraffin wax: You can use either paraffin or beeswax. 5. Sandpaper 400: This is wet and dry from Mirka. (Glued to a piece of rubber mat) 6. Sandpaper 800: This is wet and dry from Mirka. (You can go to a higher grit if you want) 7. Burnishing cloth: (Clean) 8. Burnishing cloth: (Paraffin/Beeswax) 9. Awl: For applying edge paint. Some use edge rollers or brushes, but this is my preferred method. (10. Crepe Rubber optional:) For cleaning the edge transition if needed. STEPS FOR PAINTING EDGES 1. Cut edges flush and or sand them. 2. Bevel the edges (optional) 3. Paint first layer. Paint a relatively thin layer of paint. 4. Crease the edge on both sides. If you have a large contrast between leather color and edge paint, it's important you didn't use to much paint in the last step. 5. Smooth edges This promotes adhesion of paint and also removes the line between layers of leather. I use a high temperature here (7 on Regad) If you use the iron Wax spatula from Regad use a lower temperature because your tool could break. 6. Dry burnish Lay you leather flat on your desk and burnish edges with a clean cloth (Not used with wax) Do this with both Chrome/combination tanned and vegetable tanned. 7. Sand the edge Use 400 grit. Don't stop sanding until your edge is good, if you sand through a lot (especially in folds) I would recommend heating the next layer of paint also. 8. Paint edge A thicker layer this time. 9. Proceed with painting and sanding edges until you are happy with your edge. There is no need to heat/smooth with Fileteuse/heated creaser apart from after the first layer of paint. When your edge is perfect, sand it with 800 grit (or go higher if you want) 10. Rub paraffin on your edge and melt it with Fileteuse or heated creaser. (I use temp 3 on my Regad, you don't want to melt your edge paint here) 11. Burnish your edge with a have cloth. 12. Edge is finished, now you can have a beer or a coffee and show your edge in this thread. (Sorry for the photo, I'm no photographer and struggle to get a nice photo of the edge. (Edit. Sorry Uk friends. Of course Tea is okay too :))
  13. Danne

    What's your favorite skiving tool?

    I have a solution for this, it's not a professional way to do this, but it works. My guide is two small pieces of a cutting mat. A better choice would be something with a little lower friction. Maybe you have one of those small glass burnishers in combination with something to get the right height. I use wet & dry sandpaper, it sticks to my granite plate if wet. (In my picture the sandpaper is dry, just took the picture to show) I hold my sandpaper with my left index finger and my guide with my thumb. Something like 1000 - 2000 - 4000 grit and you have a nice edge. If your guide gives you a small secondary bevel it's okay, and it's quicker to sharpen your knife.
  14. Danne

    What's your favorite skiving tool?

    Some people who struggle with skiving blames the tool. (I did too) A better skiving knife won't give you better results. (Maybe your first projects if it's sharpened.) Is it hard to skive edges? Yes with a dull knife it's impossible to get good results. I have two Japanese skiving knives from Kyoshin Elle (cost around 40usd/knife) and one china knife (cost 2usd) Both Japenese and Chinese knife work good, the downside with the Chinese knife is that it won't hold an edge very good. I wouldn't say I'm good at sharpening knives, but I can get them really sharp after a lot of practice.
  15. Thank you, This is 3mm/9spi from Ksblade. Really good tools but expensive. I just ordered 2.7/10spi and 2.45/11spi from Kevin Lee, his tools look well done for a good price. https://kevinlee.global/collections/best-sellers/products/kl-french-pricking-iron-1?variant=15890879479908