Danne

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About Danne

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    https://www.instagram.com/danneswe/

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    Sweden

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    Making wallets and watch straps.
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  1. Thank you. The top layer is Tärnsjö and lining Haas Zermatt, both are 1mm thick.
  2. Danne

    I am a newcomer here,

    Hi and welcome. Looked at your work on your Instagram, nice work especially the latest clutch. What's behind your stitching pony here. (The wood thing attached to your desk)
  3. Danne

    Does anyone use WUTA tools?

    Around the same price and quick shipping, I haven't used Wuta but Kevin's irons are good. I also have Ksblade, Ksblade are ergonomically better, but also a lot more expensive. You won't be disappointed with Kevinlee. https://kevinlee.global/collections/best-sellers/products/kl-french-pricking-iron-1?variant=16154124451940
  4. I use linen thread from Fil Au Chinois and Meisi (Yuefung button also produced by Meisi, and Twist from RML I think.) I do wallets and watch straps. 2.45/11spi: Thread 0.35-0.43mm 2.7/10spi: Thread 0.35-0.51mm 3.0/9spi: Thread 0.45-0.51mm
  5. It should hold up fine, Vernis 600 is a good edge paint. before you paint your edge, it's just sanded correct? no burnishing with Tokonole or something similar? because I have seen that sometimes because a burnishing agent before paint will have a negative impact on the adhesion. your paint need to be able to penetrate to the fibre structure (I'm no expert, just my amateur observations)
  6. You say you don't want to make your own, I thought the same but decided to give it a try. It's actually a quick and fun project. The tools/materials I used was a plastic miter saw box, some sandpaper, wood glue, drill, some screws, and a hinge. (Not completely finished in this picture, added some leather and a "lock".
  7. Yes, it would be possible to punch from the inside out on the wallet I showed earlier. Let's say the interior is orange and exterior black and I use orange thread, then I punch from outside. Also it's not uncommon you get the profile I showed you in my drawing. For example if you do a bifold with bill compartment and use softer leather outside. Here is an example. (Not mine it's from Chestermox) I'm not trying to be a wiseacre, just sharing my thoughts on this. Another common product where it's hard to punch through without awl is a card case with pockets on both sides.
  8. If your edge looks something like this, you are going to have a hard time without an awl.
  9. I don't think we are talking about the same thing here. Here is an example. The total thickness of leather layers is 3.5mm but the edges are around 2mm. So I'm talking about skiving all/most parts before assembling for a nice transition and a slim profile of the edges. Here I punch holes on the outer leather before assemble and go through with an awl. If I would use irons and go through the whole way, it would be very hard to do it straight.
  10. The downside with this is if you skived your edges, you are going to have a hard time punching your holes straight. Using an awl takes a bit of practice but in my opinion, something you have to learn if you do wallets. At least if you do slimmer wallets. A lot of people seem scared of their awl. With a sharp awl and some practice, it isn't that hard.
  11. Danne

    Looping/bartacking watch straps.

    Linen thread. Yes, hide it under the lining beside the keeper is a good solution. But it's far from easy to do with a good result. It's a tight space for four thread ends in total, and when I go through with the needle it distorts lining leather. Also not easy to glue it in place afterward. Going out at the buckle slot is not a working solution, because I use reinforcement (On some straps the whole length, but always at the buckle and where the strap attaches to the lugs. It depends on the type of leather I use, and the weight and construction.) I think super glue (or solvent-based leather glue) is the solution I'm going to use right now. A half knot and a little bit of glue before I pull it together, that way the glue is hidden inside the hole. From the looks on other straps (Some straps are very thick and the lining is glued very tight around keeper), I can't see how they used another solution. Thank you for your answer
  12. I haven’t used Vernis, but I would guess not more than 30 minutes. Make some test pieces and you will find out. If you have fold sections it’s good to let it fully set before folding. Which take longer time.
  13. Danne

    Tandy Pricing Structure Change

    My thoughts on this. I have done leathercraft for around three years. The first thing I bought was some really cheap Chinese tools on eBay. After a while, I thought I buy some better tools, which I bought from Tandy. Now I have a mix of budget tools and expensive tools. (From Leathercrafttools, Goodsjapan, Ksblade, Kevinlee and such) If I have a look at Tandys website I don't find anything I want. But I have found some tools on Aliexpress that I'm going to buy, like hole punches from Wuta. Tandy sells a cheap hole punch set, but useless unless you sharpen/reshape them.
  14. Since my experience is limited to smaller test pieces, I can't really answer your questions. When I did my test pieces, I was very careful to start punch from the same corners. The biggest reason I don't punch from both sides is that then I have to make all parts to exact dimension before gluing. I feel like I have better control when I can trim pieces after glue.
  15. What edge paint are you using? And why do you let it dry over night? from the look of your edge paint, you use to much heat, too much paint, or move your tool to slow. paint is boiling from the look of your pictures. Have a look at my tutorial here. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/85026-finishing-edges-tutorial-with-edge-paint/