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About Danne

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    Making wallets and watch straps.
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  1. Thank you. Thank you for your kind words. Yes, and if the exterior was black, then it would suit KTM It was a challenge to glue it so it doesn't become a gap, because I felt like I had to use solvent based glue for this construction. So I only got one chance. (To answer how I made sure it was no gap, I pushed the exterior (Brown part) against the interior (orange) between two rulers, and put a piece of tape on the top layer. Because this leather have some finish I was able to use regular clear tape. If you look carefully on the first photo in my "build album" you can see how the leather is a little dull in the middle, but a little polish with Saphir Renovateur solved that. I don't really have equipment for that, or want to spent the time for making video clips. Sorry.
  2. Wallet dimensions 1. Cut out all parts. 2. Finish top parts of pockets (crease? burnish, edge paint? whatever suits you) 3. Glue top pockets in place, align them carefully with the inner opening edge. (Optional: skive the bottom part edges for a smoother look (will not be visible through the bottom pocket, and wallet will become slimmer) 4. Stitch the bottom part of the pockets (4mm from the edge. 5. Glue the bottom pockets in place. 6. Stitch the inner part of pockets. 7. Turn the assembled piece around and trim pocket overlaps. And finish the open center part with (crease? burnish, edge paint?) 8. Glue edges (4mm) against the exterior. 9. Trim. 10. Stitch exterior edges all around, and finish edges. Did I miss something? Just comment.
  3. Letter size: (Haven't tried to print them since I have an A4-printer, any problems just tell me) letter_bottom_pockets.pdfletter_top_pockets.pdfletter_overview.pdfletter_lining.pdfletter_interior_base.pdf
  4. A wallet i've seen a couple of times. And I thought I make a template, and also instructions. (I didn't feel like making this wallet myself, so glued paper together for instructions.) Suitable stitching irons is 3.85mm/#7 or 3.38mm/#8 (In my photos I used 3.0mm/#9 because I don't have any larger. (Hence the reason it doesn't match up between pockets. Center of stitch 4mm from the edge. A4: A4_bottom_pockets.pdf A4_interior_base.pdf A4_lining.pdf A4_overview.pdf A4_top_pockets.pdf
  5. Danne

    Applicator "sponge"

    I think this was what I was looking for. Which may be the same type as you use. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/dye-sponges-3-pack?variant=35473366723
  6. Danne

    Applicator "sponge"

    It might be suitable for my purpose. Will have to look around here in the city, so I don't have to order something like that online. They are cheap, but shipping will cost a lot for that low amount.
  7. @ipcmlr I will give some tips on cheaper alternatives on some of the tools and motivate why, and also some tools/brands I prefer. This is of course my opinions, and we all prefer different tools. exacto knife $6 I have two snap-off knives. One 18mm (cheap one) I use this one to cut thicker things, and to cut out leather pieces from the leather hide. I also have a Olfa SAC-1 which is cheap and I like it because it's very little wiggle in the blade. I use Olfa Black Max blades for both knives, they get dull quicker, but they are super sharp and cheap. ruler $10 Don't buy a really cheap thin ruler, I did that at first and it was very annoying. I would recommend a thickness around 1mm (I use Linex) needles $9 I would recommend John James 004 (Up to around 0.6mm thread) depending on the type on the style of products, if you would use for example Ritza25 0.8mm or other thread around the same thickness John James 002 is more suitable. If you use very thin thread like 0.3-0.35mm you can benefit from System S+U 953-7 But John James 004 work fine for this thread. thread $7 - For small leathergoods (depending on style of course) Meisi is a very good choice, and I would recommend you to pick up their free sample pack (You have to pay shipping costs though, but you get a couple of full spools, and a lot of samples of different thread types. + a color catalogue. I prefer Meisi linen M40 (0.45mm) for 9spi (European style irons) and Meisi linen M35 (0.35mm) for 10-11SPI (Which I usually use for watch straps) I also use their Xiange twist in the same weights. It's a polyester thread with a linen feel, I like it for wallets and card holders, because it's so much more durable compared to linen. http://www.meisi108.com/product-17210-23781-85397.html Contact them on instagram to order: https://www.instagram.com/meisi108/ stitching irons $215 - I just put the most expensive one for computation. KS Blade Punch 2+10 3mm I really like my Ksblade, they are so easy to align to a scribed line. dividers / leather groover $10 - a tandy stitching groover Do you need a stitching groover? I have one, I have never used it, and never seen a reason to use it. Maybe if I someday would make a gun holster or something where I want quite thick thread, maybe I would use it. stitching pony $120 - dream factory. I'm sure there's a cheaper option. Make your own? I have no woodworking experience, and used a plastic miter saw box and a cordless drill. I did add a looking mechanism with a metric thread insert and a "eye screw", I placed it quite low to avoid thread getting stuck. https://imgur.com/a/5hWQk beveller 80 - I put the palosanto #2 here. I'm sure there's cheaper options I have Kyoshin Elle the ones with green handles, and have never felt like I would need anything else. Palosanto is probably a lot better, but the ones I have make a clean beveled edge, and I don't have to sharpen them that often (A steel rod and fine grit sandpaper is included to sharpen them. And you can strop them. card for templates $15 I use card paper from pizza boxes, a good reason to eat some pizza lol. https://i.imgur.com/WFKw6Ql.jpg sanding block/sandpaper $8 I use paper from Mirka (And really like that brand) 180 grit (dry paper, the yellow one) and wet/dry 400 grit, 800 grit (for final sanding of edge paint before polishing) When I dye and burnish edges I go a little higher as finish) For sharpening my skiving knives I use 1000 grit and finish with 2500 grit. To hold the paper I just cut apart a sanding block into a smaller piece so I can wrap my paper around the edge and hold it. maul/hammer $75 - barry king maul. You plan on doing tooling? if not a regular cheap hammer. Something equivalient to this with plastic heads cost like 10-15usd. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61AH4em4rHL._SL1500_.jpg skiving knife 50 - a friend is selling me a palosanto japanese knife which might be a good option. Palosanto have a good reputation so it will be a good knife. I use the cheaper ones from Kyoshin Elle and i'm very happy with them, and it's around the same price, so I would choose the one from Palosanto.
  8. I recently saw someone using isopropanol to even out the last layer of edge paint. (It was a story clip on Instagram, but can't find it now) he used a small white "sponge looking thing" and he held it with some tweezers. It almost looked like magic eraser. Anyone know what I talk about? I would guess this is also used by some people to dye or paint edges.
  9. Maybe you can find a nice bracelet lock also https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/96459-bracelet-hardware
  10. Thank you. Yes, sure it's easier to cross the tip, because I can choose if I want to "toe or heel" with the creaser around the tip. But I find those small details important.
  11. This is the finished strap from this thread https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/96446-making-my-most-finicky-watch-strap-build-photos
  12. I'm looking for a "lock" for a bracelet i'm going to make in alligator. (Not a copy of Hermès like in the photo, just an example of what I mean) The location of the reseller and the price doesn't matter, but I want high quality.
  13. I think it's nice. And it will age beautifully. I would leave those edges raw or dye them (Not using edge paint) Because yes it will crack, and the reason is because it wrinkles at the fold quite a lot, and no edge paint will "stretch" that much. A solution for the wrinkles (for other projects) would be to glue the lining around a curve, also it would help to change to have a thinner lining than exterior leather. Regarding edge paints, in my opinion there are way better options out there than Fiebings edge kote. And how durable the edge will be depends not only on the brand of edge paint, but also the viscosity of the paint. Some thicker paints is of course quicker to get a nice result with, thinner paint may require a lot of coats. There are also primers available that might be suitable for some waxy/oily leathers. A couple of brands that are easy to source and popular. Fenice, Uniters, Vernis 600, Giardini (There are of course other good brands also, like Stahl, Beraud CT and such) Personally I use Fenice and Uniters, but prefer Fenice. (I think you should buy one color of a couple of brands, and maybe a couple of different primers and test them to see what you like. If you would like to make a nice edge with few coats, I think you should try Uniters EP Full (Primer) and Uniters EP2000. (You can get a "perfect edge" with just one coat of primer and one coat of paint. I haven't tried the durability of this combination, but Uniters have a good reputation, and from my test pieces it feels like a good solution.
  14. Thank you Thank you, hard to decide. it would give it such a different style with brown or orange thread. Thanks Thank you, I think it's more used as a jewelry than a "tool" these days. Even though I actually find it a lot easier to just have a quick glance at my watch, instead of picking up my phone.
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