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About PAMuzzle

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  • Location
    Southwestern PA
  • Interests
    Photography, leather working, western holsters

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    western holsters
  • Interested in learning about
    anything leather
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
  1. Was told by a leather worker friend of mine to make the inner liner on a western gun belt rough side out so that it will not slip when worn? All that I have seen has been grain side out. Any comments for or against this theory?
  2. Thanks Dwight, I have those DVD’s. I haven’t watched it for awhile and didn’t remember if he put a finish over the oil.
  3. Thanks all. I have used Resolene before also but never 50/50. I will try that. Here's a pic of what it looked like before I oiled it.
  4. I made this holster a couple years ago for mself but never finished it. I decided to try Pure Neatsfoot Oil. This is the color it came out. I like the rich brown color and the fact that it looks used. I have not put anythng on it except one coat of NF oil. What should I finish it with or leave as is?
  5. Newby...it is a dark walnut color now after re-staining and finished with shellac.
  6. Finishing up the gluing. I inserted 2 rare earth (molybdenum) magnets to each side, under the leather, for a way to hold needles when taking a break from sewing
  7. fredk...yes it was a lot of work, but I enjoyed it...hardest part was removing clamp after epoxy putty set. It swelled and was very difficult to remove. I put plastic tape around so epoxy would not stick. Sanded it open so the clamp now goes in easily. LetterT: not sure. I have just seen/used veg tan. I have already glued the veg tan on....hmmm. Then again chrome would have allowed dyed color to match the wood color....hmmm.
  8. Thanks fredk and Mattsbagger, will work on it tonight. JD62 I bought it at an antique store in Virginia. It is a J.D Randall Co. Cincinnatti, OH. Apparently it was a lefty... then someone drilled and chiseled the hole for the clamp post, decades ago, to make it a right handed. Seat was completely split down the center... they put metal bands around each end and across the bottom. leather strap was old and crusty. I removed the bands, glued the seat and used 2 part epoxy putty to fill in the big hole where the clamp post was. I formed the putty around the post now the hole fits it perfectly, instead of flopping around. I cut a new strap for it. Re-glued a couple loose leg cross members, restained and finished. Now getting to glue the leather on the clamp. Will post pic when done.
  9. Fredk, Thanks. The adhesive that you use on top of PVA, is that also PVA or contact cement?
  10. I Love the tooling and the color. What color is it and how did you apply? Full strength or diluted? Thanks Doug
  11. I have an antique stitching horse that I am repairing and I want to glue leather onto the clamp. I am using 3oz/4oz veg tan glued with contact cement. Should I dampen the leather to form it easier around the sharp bends as I am gluing or just press and hold till cement takes hold. Also, should I use two coats on the wood as I do when just gluing leather?
  12. Thanks to all. Think I will stick to less deep for more realistic Western period style. Found this on another thread From Steve 75 -
  13. If making a "period correct" or wishing it comes out that way, how deep should carving go into the leather? Sheridan carving is fairly deep to my understanding and a lot of pull ups on leaves and petals. Did western holsters have that intricate work or was it less deep and closer to just scratching the surface. Similar to a cowboy scratching in a design in the bunk house or on the trail?
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