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  1. Hi, I have had several requests for service manuals for old Pfaff 345 and 335 machines. So here is what I have avaiable for these machines. For the Pfaff 345 here is a download link to the partlist, subclass list and service manual, link is valid for 30 days. https://rushfiles.one/client/publiclink.aspx?id=n5JAdmYzGl For the new 335 casting machine you are supported by Pfaff industrial https://www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/support/downloads/technical/documentsearch For the old 335 you can use this general service manual for several similar contruction Pfaff classes. https://rushfiles.one/client/publiclink.aspx?id=VSZEdZXfUv The old service manuals are without pictures and many terms can be difficult to understand. However, the new 335 service manual is good illustrated and can be used as a reference in addition to the old. Just change the parameters to the correct ones from the old manuals. I hope this will help. Thanks Tor
  2. Hi all, I need help with an identification of a Pfaff 1245/1246 please. I can't tell if it is 45 or a 46 to from what I can tell it looks to be a 46 happy to be proven wrong. But it looks to have twin needle support even though its only running one set of tensions. There are no tags on this machine and even the owner a nice older lady (than me) who seems to be a very nice seamstress but couldn't speak a word of English. Who just used it for make car covers and it was time for it to move on, doesn't do this type of work any more. Anyhow it doesn't have a walking foot in place, also as far as I can tell it is missing the presser foot bar. Given I am look at doing car seats and light medium leather work this machine looked ok to get started. Do all 1245/1246 models come with the ability to support a walking foot by default? Can any one confirm the machine from the pics please. The manual is available but the manual is about both machines so this doesn't help. The owner didn't have any extra's either to go with it so I figure a 1246 typical comes with a forward gatherer from what I have read. Regards Szkil. pfaff1245.webp
  3. Okay, I’ve been on the fence about a flatboed vs a cylinder arm with table adapter. But then I see this and I’ve made up my mind.
  4. I'm shopping for my first industrial machine and came across this Pfaff. Can anyone identify the model?
  5. Please email me if you are interested. I check that more than anything. info@Loyalstricklin.com photos Here’s a video with the pfaff sewing (sped up) https://instagram.com/p/Bkh8VzJgy4r/ Nashville, TN For sale: Pfaff 335. Comes with swing down binder (cost $60) and extra slim presser feet (cost $50) and some extra needles $1900 plus shipping ($300-$350 from east coast to Texas. 450 or so to out west) Purchased new 9 months ago. I just use it to close bags. Maybe 50 hrs on it total. Techsew 2800B binding set up machine. I use this to bind the seams of all of our canvas and leather bags. Functionally the same machine as the pfaff 335. 1” tape binder included. For about $100 in parts you can convert this to a regular sewing machine just like the 335 or vice versa. Shipping costs are the same Both have servo motors. The pfaff has a space saver table. A flag table top can be bought for both as well from Uwe Grosse, so they can be 2-3 machines in one if needed. I’m upgrading to a durkopp adler if similar style, so I don’t need these machines anymore once it arrives. They sew and work as new and look brand new as well. Please DM if you’re interested or if you have any other questions. There is one person I’m waiting to hear back from on the techsew, but the pfaff has no one in line currently. Local pickup is available in Nashville, TN as well.
  6. Still works. 1/2 leather no problem. Walking foot. Servo Motor. upgraded Singer Treadle. Cost - peanuts! (God forbid if it ever needs any parts!)
  7. I am going to be near this machine tomorrow, and for 20 Euro, it is cheap. If I had to guess it is for seams on light leather and fur items like gloves, but that is just my uneducated guess. If they listed the model I would look it up myself. https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/alte-pfaff-pelz-leder-naehmaschine-mit-unterschrank/934199453-240-405 The translation is: "Old Pfaff fur / leather sewing machine with base cabinet" "Sell here an old sewing machine from Pfaff with base cabinet. She runs on the pedal when kicking. Pick up in 66539 Neunkirchen / Saar"
  8. JoergFBernhard

    THIS is a stitching machine!

    THIS is s stitching machine! This was used in production for the backseat on tall bootlegs of heavy military and riding boots. Pay attention on the direction of the rolling foot! Not sure if on this photo you can guess the actual size of this machine, but a normal patcher would look tiny next to it...
  9. So, after owning my '76 Pfaff 335 H3 for a couple of years (very light use) the former owners oiling job is finally starting to wear of and I might have to start oiling it again. The guy I bought it from was an 80-ish year old sewing machine repairman turned textile manufacturer that was closing up shop and getting rid of all his machines. He slathered the whole machine in this deep yellow sticky oil, that it to this day leaks of after standing a while (I have to keep a piece of cloth under the presser foot to soak up the oil in between uses). So, now I'm researching what oil I need, and this is turning into quite the rabbit hole This here thread seems to recommend a ISO VG 15 oil https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/103874 which to me seem a bit thin (I'm a mechanical engineer so ISO VG oils are quite familiar). In the same thread they link to this oil http://www.gulfstarlubricants.com/sewing-machine-oil/ which is even thinner (ISO VG 10). The consensus on here on the other hand seems to be for ISO VG 22, which Mobile also sells https://www.mobil.com/english-cn/industrial/pds/apxxmobil-velocite-sm-series Pfaff's manuals aren't that helpful, as they only recommend Pfaff sewing machine oil No. 280-1-120 122, which I've not managed to find out what it is. The newer manuals for the 335 spec "Only use oil with a viscosity of 22.0 mm^2/s at 40 C and a density of 0,865 g/cm^2. Pfaff recommends Pfaff sewing machine oil, part no. 280-1-120 144", which to me sounds like ISO VG 22 if I remember the specs for ISO VG oils correctly. Personally, I'd have use for a ISO VG 22 oil elsewhere in the shop, but I thought I'd get your guys opinion on the matter first. On a side note, my mother is threatening to outsource the oiling of her home Bernina machine and Bernina Serger machine to me, any recommendations of oil for those as well?
  10. I just purchased a 1950's Pfaff 130 to sew garment leather on. I'm having a hard time getting the leather to feed through the feed dogs. From what I've researched I am seeing that I may need to upsize my motor but I also think I need a walking foot. My question is, can I safely attach a walking foot to this machine without damaging the machine? Is it made to handle it? If not I am in the market for a machine that can sew between 2.5 - 6 oz. leather. Any and all input is appreciated. Thank you.
  11. Hello, everyone! I recently bought myself a Pfaff 345 cylinder bed industrial sewing machine. I would like to swap the fast 3F clutch motor with a more controllable servo motor. I live in Europe (Slovenia) and as far as I know I can't get my hands on a Family sew or Hightex motor here. My options are 750W Jack servo motors and Zoje servo motors (although not much is written about them on the internet), maybe 550W Sailrite Workhorse or any other good quality motor brand I am not familiar with. I would appreciate any advice on which servo motor to buy. My budget is in 200-300€ range. I mostly do leather bags, purses, belts, wallets from veg-tan (not more than 6mm/0.3 in thick) and crome-tanned leather. Kind regards, Gregor
  12. Can anyone could help me to understand how the safety clutch in pfaff works? I described an issue in the file below. Regards, Bert HOW THE SAFETY CLUTCH WORKS IN PFAFFS.pdf
  13. **I realize I posted this under machinery instead of sewing machines. Would a moderator be able to post this in the correct forum please** First off thank you for taking the time out of your day to read this thread. I am a novice when it comes to leatherworking and also a novice when it comes to machines. My use case: -I am looking to make bags, tactical backpacks, rucksacks, and handbags. Possibly the small wallet from time to time. -The materials I see myself using are Cordura, canvas, and leather. My Available machine options: I'm an expat living abroad and currently located in Singapore. I don't have access to a lot of machines and I'm hoping to avoid crazy shipping costs by purchasing a machine that's already in the country. My options for machines are below. I know people recommend different machines for different materials and jobs. I'm hoping to find one that will help get me started and allow me enough flexibility to make the above items. Once I progress from there I'd be willing to get a secondary machine. From what I've read throughout the forum it's quite difficult asking a single machine to be great at everything. I just need to find an acceptable balance to get started. Of course, if I can kill two birds with one stone I'll go for it. Options I have: 1. Pfaff 345 cylinder bed 345-H3 - This machine is used. There are cracks at the base, they almost look like stress fractures or as if it fell over and landed on the cylinder. It has the German markings on it. It's well used and has a new clutch motor. Overall, I'd say the condition is not bad, but it's definitely seen some repairs and quite a bit of use. I was uncomfortable with cracks. I'm worried that repairs and spare parts would cost a fortune. Not sure what year this machine is 2. Pfaff 335 cylinder bed. -This is a brand new set, but the price is really out of my budget at this point. The only reason I'm including this is if you feel that this it right machine and I should wait and save up for it. And by new, I mean it's an unused set and it looks to have quite a lot of electronics on it. Not sure what year. 3. Mauser Spezial 1245 - Machine is used, but in good condition and comes with servo motor and some spare parts. This is not a cylinder machine. Is this going to make creating bags impossible? 4. Sailright Fabricator - Servo motor - I know this is more of a sailing, canvas, type machine but I'm putting it down because it's available. Could I do a leather bag with this; would it even be smart? Is a cylinder bed machine an absolute must for creating backpacks and handbags? I currently design my patterns in 3D. If you have any input or recommendations which machine would be best, I would really value your replies. Once again, this is primarily for bag making, Cordura, leather, and canvas. I know there are reputable dealers at the top of the page, but I'm currently trying to avoid spending the +1k for overseas shipping. Unless you feel like the best machine for my use case needs to be shipped over and the options I've posted are an absolute waste of time and money. Thank you. -Justin. PS. I'll update my profile to state that I'm located overseas (Singapore) to help with peoples replies.
  14. Hello, I need a sewing machine and I would prefer to buy a vintage industrial (or near-industrial) model over the Sailrite LSZ, which is the obvious option for a new machine. I'll be doing mostly marine canvas, upholstery and sail repair, not as much with leather but you guys seem to be the experts on this class of machine... and I will no doubt be doing some leather work as well. I need it to have a zig zag stitch. It does not need to be portable. Quiet operation, good control and simplicity/longevity are the things I value most. I would plan to replace any clutch motor with a servo motor like the Consew CSW100. I think the Consew 99 or 199 or the Pfaff 138 could fit the bill. I'm sure there are a number of other models that I should consider as well. What other vintage models and brands should I be on the lookout for? Any advice is greatly appreciated! Jack
  15. Hello all. I am looking for an older, affordable, walking foot machine capable of doing wallets, bags, belts, and the like. Something along the lines of a consew RB-1; pfaff 145; pfaff 545. I'm located in the Chicagoland area but doing mind traveling a bit to pick something up. Please let me know if you have, or come across, anything that you think might work for me. Thank you.
  16. I'm really confused with needle and thread sizing for this machine (the whole system really) so if anyone could explain or point me in the right direction regarding a few questions I have that would be greatly appreciated. I've found a great post on here from 2015 which is awesome and I've found an array of needles at https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/freight-charges-explained/ 1/ Can I use round point needles for this machine? The needle type is 134-35 LR. Does 135 mean it's a thicker needle? 2/ The thread type is synthetic 40/3 according to the manual of a newer model but I've only seen the thread types in Australia as M20/M25/M8 with no other details. I bought a cotton-poly M20 but it's much too thick for the one needle that came with the machine (Organ 20 on the shank) but I don't know what the equivalent of 40/3 is (which I understand is the twist and cord number) and can I use cotton-poly? 3/ I'd love an Australian supplier of both needles and thread! The M type thread I can get from Birdsall (Syd) and Qld Wholesale Canvas (QLD), I got my thread from QWC.
  17. Hello, probably one of the specialists can help me. Is there a way to adjust the stitch length at that kind of machine or is it fix? Thank you in advance. Regards
  18. I have various leather sewing machines for sale. Some are in working condition, some are for parts. Make me an offer for the entire lot!Pfaff 345-H3-6C, cylinder arm, walking foot, needs timing, head only2x- Pfaff 1445, walking foot (1 is working, 1 is for parts), head onlyJuki 563- needs many parts, head only2x- Pfaff 138-6/21-BS, (1 is working, 1 is for parts), head onlyPfaff 438, zig-zag, needle positioner, head only5x- Singer 31-15, some for parts only2x- Singer 241-122x- Large kick pressesStimpson kick press for rivetsMake an offer for everything! Machines are available for pickup in Central New Jersey. Photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ws09535yjch2em1/AABNoLebdxyM3RaaKlYn3ROja?dl=0
  19. kaitlynpage

    Pfaff 1445

    Can anyone tell me what Juki sewing machine is comparable to a Pfaff 145?
  20. Hi, I'm Bert from Poland, age 50, I'm interested in sewing machines. Now I just wanted to say hello and thank you for accepting me in the group. A few words about myself: About 3 years ago I became interested in the sewing machines and technical aspects of their functioning, later bought an old damaged sewing machine and the overlock and even managed to fix them. Recently I bought very cheap Pfaff 145 industrial machine . Actually it is a rare 4145 model, which I could see as a specific combination between the Pfaff 145 and the 4143. The machine is sewing but it is grossly neglected and requires general cleaning and adjustment. Therefore, I am now looking at posts in this group regarding the Pfaff 145 with interest. Later on surely I will have some questions, but first I want to check existing posts. And here are some photos of my machine. Regards. Bert
  21. Hi everybody! I have a problem with old pfaff 545 (I believe, because front model plate was lost)- on single leather layer upper thread tension is not enough (needle thread №20, bobbin thread №30, tensioner kit is new, and screwed at max., needles 134-35 №120 LR, foot lift on low position, stitch lenght is about 4.5mm max). I tuned timing - needle 2.5mm up from lowest position, hook 1.6mm above the scarf of needle... I hope you can help me!) *sorry if my English was bad...
  22. Hi everybody! A year ago I aquired a Pfaff walking foot machine (335-H3-39/21-BSN to be exact) with a Variostop VD24. Now I managed to find the correct lamp for this machine with a separate arm. The lamp is outfitted with a small plug and a 230VAC 15W lamp, and when I went to install it on my machine I found out that the Variostop motor has a connection for a lamp already! But when I measured the contacts on the motor it gave out only 15VAC? So my question is, are these old (1976 is the vintage of my machine) machines usually fitted with 12VAC bulbs? The bulb is some odd bayonet bulb. Best regards, Sebastian
  23. Quick question, should the bobbin rotate CW or CCW when installed in the bobbin case (looking at it from the "inside")?
  24. This is my first machine, and I have tried to solve this problem for days . On soft thick leather I don't seem to have this problem , but even on 5 oz Veg I always run into trouble. The top thread will break through the bottom intermittently. I've maxed out the presser feet pressure, and increased the top tension until I get loops on top. Is this operator error? what can cause this? In this picture I'm using 207/138 polyester bonded top/bottom with a new 134/35 24 LR needle on 8 oz. veg
  25. Hi all, I'd be grateful for some help getting my Pfaff 1445 going. I previous posted about feet, which I got from Hong Kong. They're mediocre but acceptable quality given the rarity of the machine. The machine wouldn't have been a bargain if it were free considering the time and expense that's gone into it. But hey, we've got another machine so I'll consider this thing a hobby. I've got the hook correctly timed, but I'm finding that it's very difficult to correctly balance relative top and bottom thread tension, or top dog pressure may be incorrect, or the bobbin case opener isn't correctly timed or distanced. Or all of these. Compound feed is accurately synchronized, needle bar centered in all dimensions, all stroke lengths are correct, bottom feed dog height properly set to ~.020" (.5mm) per the service manual. I've got a new needle plate, feed dog, and feet, which feed perfectly straight. I do need to take the needle plate over to the buffer and ease some of the edges the thread goes around. No problems with inconsistent tension between the cone of thread and tension rings. Top thread is correctly routed per the operating manual (unusual design and route). Bobbin thread is correctly placed and pulled. Pictures attached. Symptoms are: • Occasional skipped stitches and slightly inconsistent bottom stitch; the bottom and top quality don't match consistently • Backtack thread tension is very loose • Starting the stitch occasionally results in a squirrel's nest mess of thread on the bottom • When I get the top and bottom tension balanced such that the thread is more or less locking in the middle of my material, I occasionally find when turning the handwheel that the top thread is very tight as it crosses over the top of the bobbin and the motor may even slip on the belt I strongly suspect some kind of binding or tension issue is causing thread to get pulled off the bobbin or through the top inconsistently. I'm running a 3/4" HP servo motor with what I believe are the correct thread/needle combination for layers of 3 - 6 oz chrome tanned and retanned vegetable tanned leathers (the same size combination has always worked quite nicely on another machine).