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About luxuryluke

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  • Location
    Pacific Northwet
  • Interests
    Leather, wood, and design

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
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    Machines and bags
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  1. So, after another semi-thorough cleaning, disassembly, oiling, reassembly, and inspection of the mechanics in the needlebar and bobbin case/hook areas, I did determine that the needle bar could be adjusted to fit the standard walking foot needle size of 135x16L on this machine. After this, I've noticed: At top dead center, the needlebar does top out by kissing the top of the case, so it really can't be raised anymore. At bottom dead center, it doesn't hit the center of the hook assembly inside the needle gap. The needle is now closely aligned to have the hook enter the scarf of the needle at the right timing and sews well with no noise or breakages The result is that the effective stitch length is not near what it was before with the previously installed needle by the previous owner. At the longest stitch setting it went from almost 5 stitches per inch up to around 6+ stitches per inch. I'm sure it's the geometry of the changes a new needle size made to the setup, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to know whether the new setup is better or not for the machine. I do know that this likely isn't the correct needle for this machine, but it's working really well at this point (badump). Below you'll see that the booklet I have specs it as a 134 needle system. Thoughts?
  2. I bought it online and got ten feet of 10mm and 10 feet of .5" (which is a bit larger at around 13mm) and I'd recommend the 10mm, since it sits inside the pulley slot better. Prices are all over the place but you'll likely find it around $6/meter… ish. Search "urethane belt" and look for the 10mm diameter. There are all sorts of colors and styles. Hope that helps, Johnny!
  3. That’s a great point. This could be the next step, for sure. I’m certainly familiarizing myself with the mechanics of the machine. Thanks!
  4. So five packs of different thicknesses of needles arrived for use with my T90 and T138 thread. It turns out that the 135x16 leather needles are a tad too long and hit the bobbin case outer preventing full sewing action, and I tested it inside the cavity of the bobbin at bottom dead center (correct?) as well and it hits that, too, preventing furth rotation. I should’ve taken a pic to show the needle length difference but I took a trip to a sunny beach instead. It seems to me that the proper size needle is somewhere in between the two. The “scarf” area on the current short needle is too high when the hook drops by to grab the thread loop. Consequently the hook is hitting the fat sharp end of the needle (just barely) instead. I’ll post pics when I return.
  5. You bet, Nylon R! That’s a cool idea. i did order two different diameters and after having liked the feel and finish of the .5” thickness, it is a bit stiff. I’m going to make some out of .4” and see if I have better results.
  6. You might need a cylinder bed machine if…
  7. luxuryluke

    Do-it-all machine

    Those are beautiful bags. Totally agree: cylinder arm/bed. The advice on this forum is excellent. I Just arrived here one month ago from hand stitching and had a lot of the same concerns. I picked up a used cylinder arm and it’s nearly everything I hoped. But regular leather machines use much thinner threads than hand stitching. Unfortunately the machines that appear to be referred to as Stitchers are the only comparable machines to the thick stitching of handstitched/saddle stitched items. It seams the Cobra and Cowboy machines have this arena handled, but they were more money than I wanted to spend for my first machine. I’ll be working up to them for sure. Good luck and share what you find!
  8. luxuryluke

    Just pulled the trigger on a Cowboy CB4500!!!

    Congratulations! I’m jealous. Pics?
  9. Thanks, fellas. I've ordered five different sizes in that needle. Updates: Hopefully will find the right needle size that works well on my machine and T90 thread. Then I'll try to find a needle size that works well on my machine for T135, as well. The Serabond outdoor thread from Germany is awesome The speed reducer from Bob @ Toledo is awesome The servo motor with slow start feature is awesome. I'm now operating at 1000rpm with ease after hours of practice with this feature in use. Recommended. the round urethane belting is awesome. No issues. Let me know if you'd like to learn more. the stainless steel plate for a table adapter is AWESOME. Might need to add some pipe clamping underneath it for stability, round the edges with a tool, polish the edges, too. Pics soon! Might need a new table top to convert this standard KLegs table into a Space Saver cylinder style table. It's too big and can't take full advantage of the cylinder with it as is. Maybe a 18" x 24" 1.5"thick butcher block will help me make quick work of it. This may take a while. The presser feet with an included spring guide that i found at relatively low cost are too high. Dremeling it may or may not work for what I'm after. Perhaps just the magnetic seam guide for now.
  10. Oh, thank you so much! Where do y’all buy needles these days? Also, I’m guessing the leather version of this needle is the 135x16?
  11. Servo rocks! Very happy with it. Tinkered with urethane round belting instead of round leather or v belts. This is much nicer! Speed reducer arrived! Installing it now. Thanks, Bob @ Toledo. Table adapter designed and ordered to be laser cut and etched in stainless steel. Mostly disassembled the needle and bobbin area, tested a few different presser feet and feed dog setups. Cleaned it all up and aligned the parts anew. Problem: Trying to detect what needle is in there since I’m not sure it’s correct but I seem to need a jeweler’s loupe to see it. Tiny letters! Problem: the hook is kissing the needle, strangely even more when no thread is threaded in. Need more research. It’s hitting the area below the cutout. Testing out some Serabond 30 (size T90) thread from a friend at an upholstery shop from way back (Josh @ Relicate Leather) Have read a lot more of @Wizcrafts generous wisdom articles. There’s always more to learn. More sewing excercises! Hand eye coordination. Thanks for reading.
  12. Speaking of pulleys and reducers, I prepared a urethane belt to fit with a torch and razor blade. It worked out well and it grabs the small 45mm pulley rather nicely:
  13. As far as that site is concerned, I linked to their metals section and it describes cold roll steel, hot roll steel, aluminum, etc. and all various thicknesses. Clearly aluminum would be lighter weight, yes. Let us know what you dream up! Also, I just sized some urethane round belting for the new motor since I had to find the exact size of a new belt to get it to fit, I figured I’d check this stuff out. There are videos explaining how to melt the urethane to make a belt, in case you’re interested. This is .5” solid. It grips the new 45mm small motor pulley really well.
  14. Not specifically, no. It’s for my old Necchi 840 cylinder arm, which is similar to Adler 69 and Pfaff 335 machines (I suspect) so it’s certainly not identical.
  15. Okay, the manufacturer sent a pic of the finished prototype in stainless steel: