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About Me

Found 116 results

  1. I'm watching the work of a few of my online peers and noticing that they are going to great lengths to stitch up straps and casework, but not really lining the leather and not for obvious structural or assembly reasons. I've certainly stitched my share of works but only if I was lining a piece or making a connection and on the rarest of occasions for an aesthetic effect. Does anybody else on these forums do this? Is there some function other than "looks"? Particularly the straps---does stitching prevent stretching and loss of shape over time? Thanks for your thoughts. Mike
  2. This might seem like a silly question, but does anyone have advice about being able to get a good grip on needles when hand stitching? I try and use the old Al Stohlman method of a needle and an awl in one hand and a needle in the other, but I find myself constantly setting down my awl to grab pliers to pull my needle through. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  3. I had a customer ask for a custom set of suspenders. And he want it to have a holster under one arm and 2 spare mags on the other. He does not want a chest strap and wants to have the holster an mags detachable so he can have just to suspenders. I have tried to make patterns and I basically am lost. Any and all help will be deeply appreciated.
  4. Hello, I am selling a Gritzner sole stitching machine in a good working condition. It was cleaned and oiled regularly. Pictures from the machine and stitching done with it can be seen at the following link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SbHjPHS4q-634VPuNwNaDd8E9KXapoFl Please let me know if you can't see the pictures. Price: 300 eur + shipping costs via transfer service (like Transfer Go, Transfer Wise, etc.) or paypal. Shipping from Romania. Weight approx.30kg Let me know if you are interested so we can find a good shipping solution. Best regards, George
  5. dsolsbery

    White thread stitching

    When I am stitching with white thread, the thread turns dingy colored from the piece I'm working on. I use waxed thread. How do I prevent that from happening? I want the stitching to really ”pop. Thanks, Dennis
  6. JanetNorris

    Champion stitcher

    As is. I don't know if this runs or not. I was told it came from the shop of Art Vancore, a well known saddlemaker in California. we really need the shop space so this project needs a new home. Asking $550.00 and will crate it for that price. You arrange shipping or pickup between Hollister and Gilroy, CA. It is very heavy! Please email me to request photos, they exceed the attachment limit here.
  7. SeppoKaitainen

    Threading the needle

    Does anyone have step-by-step pictures of how you knot your thread when threading a needle for hand stitching? I am having trouble with my knots slipping undone as I stitch and would love to not have to re-tie several times. Thanks!
  8. Here is a few of my tips for getting your sewing to look like it was machine stitched. I took a few photos and a video, to hopefully show and explain it a bit better.... As you all know a saddle stitch is very nice looking and is accomplished by threading a needle on each end of the thread. The rule of thumb I use for measuring my piece of thread is slightly more than 3 times the length of your stitching. 3 times the length is how much thread you will use and the little more gives you enough thread to pass the needle into the thread to lock it as you work, and when you get to the end of your piece you have enough thread to backstitch to lock your sewing in place with no nasty looking knots. EG... if your piece to be stitched is 4" long, then you would cut a piece of thread that is 14" long (3 times 4" is 12" with 2" left over to lock the needle and backstitch). You start with your first hole by pushing one needle into the first hole, and pull the thread through until you have EQUAL amounts of thread on either side of your work. Now your ready to start stitching. It is always best to work from right to left, or left to right, but ALWAYS maintain that direction. Imagine your piece of work on a stitching pony in front of you... you have one needle in your right hand, and one in your left to help explain it. In this case I am working from right to left, meaning I push the right needle in first, then push the left needle through. Once you snug up the thread, you start into the next hole with the needle that is now on the right. When doing this, you should notice your right thread is always BEHIND your left thread. This is the key to making it look like it was machine sewn, and getting an even sturdy stitch. Push the right needle through and pull the thread a bit. Then push the LEFT needle through in FRONT of the thread you just pushed through. When pulling the thread tight, always pull the needles from ABOVE the threads in the holes, and when pulling the left needle, make sure it is between and above the threads in the work. The video and pictures below should help to explain this a bit better if I have confused you with my instructions.
  9. On a Facebook group, somebody posted this video of a person making his own stitching pony out of wood. The maker creates an ingenious cam mechanism using a wooden cylinder.
  10. I finally tried my hand at something other than straight-line stitching. Had to make a template, adjusted for size, and practiced on a scrap piece first. The dog won't know the difference. Lucky dog! Jeff
  11. LeathercraftMasterclass

    New TITANIUM awl review

    Hey guys, I did a video review of a new titanium (not the blade though!) saddlers awl from France. So I thought I would share with the community here. What do you think? Revolutionary or a waste of money? Click the image below to watch.
  12. Below is an assortment of leather-working tools for sale. This is a lot sale. Everything below is included The entire lot is $75 including shipping. 38 piece hole punch set. (only two punches in the set where used with regularity) Two sets of stitching irons, 3mm and 4mm 4 Xacto knives with blades One Belt end punch, Stitching etcher with 3 wheels, Skiving blade with blades, thin splitting blade with blades, C.S. Osborne Edge Divider #106-12 C.S. Osborne 5 hole punch like new, used once. Leather hole punches included are as follows: 9.5mmX3.5mm (oval) 9.5mm X 2.5mm (oval) 11.5mm X 2.5mm (oval) 7.5mm X 3.5mm (fish mouth) 5mm X 2.5mm (oval) 7.5mm X 2.5mm (oval) 5mm X 3mm (oval) Also included in a 3/8th shaft Leather edge burnishing wheel. Used once to great results. The Fantastic leather burnishing wheel: Sells for $54.00 here on link below, also attached is a video demonstrating the wheel. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fantastic-Leather-Burnisher-HEAD-ONLY-NEW-Even-Better/323208306729?epid=1231479115&hash=item4b40b76029:g:2r8AAMXQcVNQ8Ccp:rk:3:pf:0
  13. thatgriffguy

    Need stitching advice

    I am currently stitching all my wallets by hand because I like the way the thicker thread looks. I have a Consew 207rb5 that I use for any hidden stitches but it will not handle a large enough thread to replace hand sewing the visable areas. Being I am sewing wallets with 3-4oz Harness Leather it’s also crucial to have a feed dog that will not chew up the finished side of the leather. Any suggestions on alternatives to hand sewing that will give the same look with the larger thread?
  14. SeppoKaitainen

    Taking care of your hands

    Silly new guy question here - Can anyone share ideas to keep from cutting up the skin on the first knuckle of my pinky finger when I pull thread through stitching? Am I pulling too tight? Is it the angle I hold my hands? Should I wear something on my finger or hands?
  15. Stitch00

    Palosanto Awls

    I had great results from my KS Blade irons, but feel I’m ready to push forward to pricking irons, and awls to produce a higher quality stitch(eventually LoL!). Palosanto awls came today, and I was imeadiatly impressed with the quality and finish. Service was personal, and shipping was fast. Now I just need to start punching and stitching some scrap before a mess up any good bridle leather.
  16. Wreford

    Tool roll conversion

    Good morning I'd really like some assistance please. I want to make the attached link roll out of leather. Will it be as easy as just folding the bottom part over and stitch the pockets or will the 'fold over' section have to be bigger and separate in order to make room for the bulges of, for example deodorant? Their tutorial says to cut two similar size pieces and sew together. Any assistance in this regard will be appreciated.
  17. JoergFBernhard

    THIS is a stitching machine!

    THIS is s stitching machine! This was used in production for the backseat on tall bootlegs of heavy military and riding boots. Pay attention on the direction of the rolling foot! Not sure if on this photo you can guess the actual size of this machine, but a normal patcher would look tiny next to it...
  18. https://imgur.com/gallery/bmhP3gY Large assortment. Received as a gift from my aunt. I only use black and white thread generally, so wouldn't ever really use it. (I know, I'm boring =P ) 70 yards a roll. I have played around with probably about 8-10, of the rolls, but never used more than a yard at most of any of them. So, all are guaranteed to be at least 69 yards. =) Very strong thread. That's a lot of thread. You could use it to begin construction of the worlds largest ball of waxed polycord thread and start your very own tourist attraction!... Or just sew a million kajillion delightfully awesome handmade items and share your art with the world! 6 rolls of the .04" waxed poly thread - in top row of photos. Originally $6.60 a roll 8 rolls of the .02" waxed poly thread Originally $4.40 a roll Second row from top in pictures. 29 rolls of the .03" waxed poly thread Pretty much every color they have I think. Originally $5.94 a roll Conversion of sizes for those used to mm- .02" = ~0.5mm .03" = ~0.76mm .04" = ~1.0mm https://www.mainethread.com/ Total paid retail. 6 rolls @.04" = $39.60 29 rolls @ .03" = $172.26 8 rolls @ .02" = $35.20 Total Paid = $247.06 Plus shipping I'd prefer to sell as one lot. Asking $140 Over a hundred bucks off retail!
  19. Photos upon request, since the site isn’t letting me upload them because they’re too big. All machines are local pickup only in Chicago, Illinois. 1) Landis 12L Curved Needle stitcher—red in color, recently cleaned, good condition. Can also provide sample images of how it stitches. $1,850 or best offer. 2) Luberto’s Classic Heavy Stitcher w/ accessories and thread. Capable of sewing up to 3/4” leather. $3,250 or best offer. 3) Landis 400 Line Finisher with Numkeg. Ask for further info. $1,500 or best offer.
  20. I'm working on an idea for a wallet. I'm thinking about using a nice piece of soft green garment leather for the outside, with a cutout "window" showing a white background (a nice piece of white garment leather). Both the green and the white background will be stitched to a thicker piece of tooling leather. I'm thinking about the best way to stitch it, after gluing it down, considering the following diagram: (A) represents the normal saddle stitch, close to the edge. The edge of the green is not underneath the thread. (B) represents the other possibility, where the stitch passes over the edge of the green, locking it down and precluding the possibility of the edge being pulled up as the wallet goes in and out of the pocket over years of use. Is this something anybody here has experience with? There are two other possibilities: 1) Forget the inlay idea, and just tool the design into the leather. 2) Keep the inlay idea, but cut it into the tooling leather instead, dye it green, and then stitch the white background behind the tooling leather. What do you folks think?
  21. I make turn shoes for mostly reenacting purposes. I have decided to up my game by doing some edge trim on a two-toggle Scandinavian turn shoe. The trim is skived to about half or 1/3 thickness on one side. The thicker side of the trim is first butt-seamed to the edge of the upper leather. Then it is turned over so the thinner skived side is inside the shoe and is then stitched to the inside of the leather upper with a sort of hidden whip stitch. These whip stitches do not show through the leather. I understand how to do the butt stitch, but I was wondering if there were any tricks or techniques or even special tools for this. I have some shallow curve bladed awls but have not used them for this purpose. (first image is a process photo by Simurlan. The images of completed shoes are made by Alexey Nikifovorov. )
  22. I've been looking into getting some diamond stitching chisels and came across Weaver's brand of chisels. They are really cheap compared to many other brands that are known to be of good quality. Around $20 for a set of 4 irons, which makes me worry that the tines will snap as soon as I try to use them. Should I just get a slightly more expensive set like the Seiwa? If you have any experience with the Weaver irons, please let me know your thoughts.
  23. DocHoliday1882

    Greek Key Stitching Pattern

    A friend of mine asked me to replicate this Greek key pattern on his belt for a new hat band. I've been working with the pattern for a while now with little success. Problems are: 1) replicating stitch width to create pattern (left to right distance when looking at the photo) - all of the patterns I've tried are way too wide so it looks like random stitching versus a pattern, and 2) leather tearing out between stitching - when I do get the holes close enough to resemble the pattern then it tears out as one piece. Anyone done something like this? Any tips are greatly appreciated.
  24. There are many threads on the forum discussing diamond stitching chisels but I thought another one was in order. Several years ago I purchased a 2.5mm Tandy Craftool Pro diamond stitching chisel. The chisel has 10 teeth and at the time was not offered in a 2-tooth version. I didn't buy the 1-tooth iron because I believe it is mostly useless. I will explain later. Those who use chisels already know why. I really liked the chisel and hoped that Tandy would listen to feedback and begin producing the same iron in a 2-tooth model. Well, good news, they have! Around the time I purchased the iron I was doing some fine work such as watch straps and because of that was looking to achieve 9 SPI. I already owned some of the Tandy Craftool diamond chisels (the black ones), but the SPI I had was approximately 7 and I felt that was too big of a stitch for the straps. The chisel is not perfect, but I still find it very good and use it quite often. I will add some photos (sorry for the poor quality) and add some thoughts that I hope will help folks who might be considering these chisels. It at least should be helpful for comparison's sake. Since the first chisel I have purchased two more but in the 3.5mm size. I went with the 8-tooth and the 2-tooth models. First, a comparison of the holes. The tools are made the same, but the size of the tooth and the spacing is different as shown below. As you can see, the row on top has 8 holes and then 2 just to the left of the main line. I wanted to show both irons so you can compare the two irons and see that they indeed match in tooth size and spacing. The middle row is the 2.5mm iron that has 10 teeth but only punched about halfway through the leather. I did this to show that it could be used as a pricking iron should you wish to do that. Notice that when the iron is given a light tap it creates a nice impression but not nearly as big as when it is hammered through. This certainly could be used as a reference in traditional saddle stitching with an awl. The angle is flatter than what is optimal, but it still is functional. Finally, the bottom row is the 2.5mm 10-tooth iron struck all the way through. I had a piece of approx. 3mm vegetable tanned scrap as the subject piece. The irons themselves present very well. They are stainless steel and have a satin finish to them. Nicely engraved with the name of the tool and an item code and number of teeth. Would be nice if they said 2.5mm or 3.5mm but they do not. I also took a pic of the 2.5mm iron sideways to show how sleek the tool is. In this orientation, the tooth is very slim. The real problem with the tool is the width of the tooth. If it were only a little narrower..... Here are a couple of figures that I hope you find helpful for reference. Tandy Craftool Pro 2.5mm diamond stitching chisel Tandy Craftool Pro 3.5mm diamond stitching chisel Tooth options: 1, 2, 4 and 10 Tooth options: 1, 2, 4 and 8 Stitches per inch: 9 Stitches per inch: 7 Recommended thread: 0.6mm Tiger Thread or similar Recommended thread: 0.8mm Tiger Thread or similar In summary: I really wanted to show the tools, the holes they create and discuss some of the features so that if someone is considering buying them they have a frame of reference and a testimonial from someone that has used them. Earlier I mentioned that I believe a 1-tooth chisel is mostly useless. I didn't say totally useless because I suppose there might come a time where you need to make just one hole. However, for most work a chisel with 2-teeth is a better option. When doing a long row of holes, the 8-tooth or 10-tooth chisels are great. When you come to a curved section of stitching, you change to the 2-tooth and continue around the radius. Since the tool has two teeth, the required spacing between holes is maintained. How do you do that with a 1-tooth tool? Well, there is a way, you basically use the tool with 8 or 10 teeth but hold it on an angle and just make a faint indentation beyond the straight section into the curved section. You then pick up the 1-tooth tool and hammer it through in the location of the indentation. So it does work, but you have to be very careful of the angle now. You might end up with the correct spacing but get the orientation of the tool out of whack and end up with an errant stitch. So a 2-tooth tool is the way to go IMHO. I didn't take the time yet to actually put some thread in the holes but I will and submit it later on. But for now, I trust there is some helpful information here that will give you some food for thought. I mentioned that the tools aren't perfect and here are some reasons why. Although the tools are quality SS, nicely weighted and finished, the teeth themselves are quite rough on two of the 4 sides of the diamond. Because of this, the iron tends to bind in thicker leather. Makes it necessary to use a wooden block to remove the iron. This can be helped by punching the iron into beeswax every so often or polishing on a buffing wheel, but it would be nice if you didn't have to do that. Second, the width of the tooth. I would like to see the size of the tooth slimmed down just a bit. As it is, you can see in the pictures that the "diamond" hole that is created is fairly thin but quite long. Wish it could be a little shorter. Finally, the angle of the tooth. As it stands, the angle is probably around 30 degrees or so. Would be much better if it were steeper, say 40 to 45 degrees. I think a steeper angle of the hole would result in a more angled stitch. So what's my bottom line? Am I glad I bought them? Yes, I find them to be good tools. I don't use them on everything, but in the right place they do the job. I use the black Craftool chisels on some of my work and use a traditional awl method on others. I'm hoping that Tandy will evaluate the tools over time and respond to the feedback they have received. Tandy has stepped up its game, introducing some really nice tools lately. If they could make just a few adjustments in these irons they would have a real winner. If you want more detailed information on these tools and reviews of a number of pricking irons and diamond chisels, you can look up Nigel Armitage on Youtube or at his website, ArmitageLeather.com. The Youtube videos are awesome and you get to see Nigel actually stitch the holes created by the irons. Nigel's website has a .pdf file which contains detailed reviews much more comprehensive than what I offered on not just these irons but most of the major players in the marketplace. It is THE reference for this type of tool. Nigel is a master, I'm a hobbyist with a strong desire to do good work. Hopefully this will help someone.
  25. Hello, guys! So as a leatherworker, I thought I should be wearing a belt that I made... so I made one my style... thick. I used two pieces of 9 oz leather at 1.5 inches wide... do the math and you get an 18 oz thick belt. I glued the flesh sides together and then stitched it up so I have the smooth on both sides. It's like lining it with itself. It should last the rest of my life as well as my future kids and grandkids and so forth. It will also make a very good spanking strap. (Note: I did not make my dad one.) Comments/critique welcome. Oh, and before you ask, no, I didn't win the buckle. Thanks for looking! -Ryan