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  1. I understand the difference in uses between the two, pricking irons and stitching chisels, but I don't understand from a manufacturing process what the difference between the two is. Can anyone shed light on this for me? Even though it is taboo, I have had success using a pricking iron to create holes and foregone using an awl. It seems that all pricking irons I have come across are french style (slanted flat teeth), could that be the difference and due to their thin nature they are more prone to break when hammered? Or could it just be a legacy tradition where manufactures couldn't make the teeth thin enough when the pricking irons were first made and therefore they had to only be used as a marking tool less the holes be too big?
  2. We are custom designers and craftsman of baseball glove leather items such as wallets, purses, bags, etc. Our main focus is wallets. We need a craftsman that can layout and hand stitch these wallets. We provide everything you need. You can do just finish stitching ....to complete design based on what you are comfortable doing. We are a small family operation that sells exclusively online. My partner, (sister), wants to slow down and we have built a large following online. We also do custom glove to wallet orders as well. You can work at your own pace and do as much or as little as you want. Quality of craftsmanship is our number one priority so experience is a must. We are willing to pay according the work you do on a piece by piece basis. I am a new member here so help me out if I break the rules unknowingly. Best thing would be to contact me and we can have a conversation on the phone about what you would like to do. Our website is whenitwasagame.org and you can see what we do there. I don't care where you are located or where you work from as long as we can count on you to do what you tell us you're goin to do. Looking forward to hearing from creative people that love doing quality work. Thanks... My Name is Les
  3. Like new KS Blade Punches (version 2)! Can be sold as a pair or single. This second version of KS Blade Punches are a bit slimmer and lighter for ease of use. The pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading.
  4. Like new KS Blade Punches! Can be sold as a pair or single. The pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading.
  5. Like new Amy Roke Pricking Irons! Can be sold as a pair or single. The Amy Roke European style pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading.
  6. Like new Amy Roke Pricking Irons! Can be sold as a pair or single. The Amy Roke European style pricking irons are made of high-quality steel and have a nice weight to them. The heavier weight makes it easy to set the tool in the correct position, preventing it from moving on you. The width of the teeth are fairly thin (unlike many irons) and create a very clean, non-bulky opening for threading.
  7. Yes I know I should have listed these in the for sale/classified section, but I know there are lots of folk out there like myself who like to look at pictures of old and unusual tools. As well as the folk looking to buy quality equipment. 11/2" #6 - G Buck $75 13/4" #6 - Geo Barnsley $75 13/8" #7 - J Dixon $70 13/4" #9 - J Dixon $75 13/4" #9 - Brindley Late John Adams $75 2" #9 - J Dixon $80 11/2" #11 - W Butler $75 11/2" #15 - T Dixon & Sons $80 11/2" #16 - T & J Dixon $80 The # denotes stitches per inch, Prices are USD excluding P&P (approx $10 worldwide basic) These irons belonged to the late Mr Turner of Turner-Bridgar, who were saddlers and harness makers by royal warrant to Queen Elizabeth II until he retired in the mid 1980's. Some of them are stamped with his initials, most are getting on for a 100 years plus and some by makers not seen very often today. In my opinion Buck made some of the best irons, I have some in my toolkit and they are the first I reach for! They are not the prettiest tools in the workshop but have given many years of service and will give many more, as you can see the business ends are still good. I will supply a stamped piece of leather with the Turner-Bridgar makers mark (as in photo) with each iron as a little piece of history/provenance. I hope these go to good homes.
  8. I wanted to create an atypical looking holster as far as pattern design that was inteded to be carried at the 4/5 o'clock position. I used 8oz Hermann-oak, and 1.2mm tiger thread for the stitching. The dye work was done with an air brush, and fiebiengs' mohogany & black. All comments, critiques and criticism welcome! Happy Leather-crafting!
  9. A friend and fellow toddler parent was complaining that her daughter is so tiny that her pants keep falling down, and I suggested that I could make her a little pair of suspenders. She wasn't too keen on that idea, but maybe a belt? she asked. But something that would be simple for her daughter to undo when they start potty training. The idea that we came up with (or agreed to look into further) was Velcro. So I'm picturing a 1/2" or 3/4" strip of leather with a little dot of hooks on one side and a strip of loops on the other. So, I've got the belt leather, and Velcro tape isn't that expensive. But I've never sewn Velcro onto anything. (And I want to sew it on, so that it's nice and secure.) Anything in particular I need to know?
  10. What is the purpose of a diamond chisel? I've seen them used numerous times and by scores of different people, but I can't figure out why it would be better than a diamond awl for saddle stitching. I was taught to use a diamond awl, and to punch the holes on a flat surface like a work bench, with a firm backing like foam insulation or thick cardboard. So I guess the the question of why people punch their holes on a stitching pony is one for another post. But I still don't understand the chisel, it seems like an awl can do everything and more that a chisel can do, and quieter. Can someone older and wiser than me shed some light on this?
  11. Well, #nstarleather tempted me with some beautiful olive H.A.A.S tumbled calf, so decided to make a travel bag, roughly around 11 x 9 x 16 inches. Using 3mm KS blade stitching irons (treated myself!), and 0.6mm Tiger thread / lin cable 532 thread. Zipper is 6mm RiRi from Pacific Trimming. Will post photos as I go; this is my first time trying out the decorative bottom stitching, padded handles with geometric shaped ends and stitching with linen thread....my usual helpers love to get involved as well
  12. I am having a little difficulty pulling the eye of a size 2 John James harness needle through 14/15 oz of leather, and thinking of using a smaller needle. 1) Ritza supposedly recommends a size 1 harness for their 1.0 mm thread and I am using a size 2 harness needle. So my main questions is: Are there any drawbacks/problems associated with using a smaller needle than recommended, or is it just a matter of if you can get the thread through the eye of the needle you are good to go? 2) Looking at John James website, they list the following sizes for harness needles: Size 1 55mm length x 1.02mm diameter Size 2 55mm length x 1.02mm diameter Size 3 55mm length x 1.02mm diameter Size 4 48mm length x 0.86mm diameter Size 18 (1/0) 57mm length x 1.09mm diameter Size 17 (2/0) 60mm length x 1.42mm diameter Size 16 (3/0) 62mm length x 1.63mm diameter I am wondering since the length and diameter of the size 1, 2, and 3 needles are exactly the same, could the difference between them be the size of the eye (size 3 having a smaller eye than size 2)? 3) Lastly, Is anyone using a size 3 or 4 needle with Ritza 25 1.0 mm thread?
  13. I apologize ahead of time for another thread question but I have been reading continously for 3 days and can't find the answers I am seeking and need some advice. I even called Campbell-Randall and they couldn't answer my question. I can't find out what the difference between #6, or #5 and 18/3 or 18/4 and what size is 207? Then there are all the needle sizes. one place a size is 00 and someplace else it is a different #??? I bought some Barbour #6 ($50 worth) and then ordered some John James #2 needles but don't think the two are compatible?? So if there is a chart or someone could point me to the right post, my sanity would be forever grateful. I love these forums and Nigel's video's but I'm over educated for my intelligence and need some advice. Thank you so so much in advance.
  14. Pretty excited, I've waited nearly 7 months for these to show up! I put an old Joseph Dixon iron in the photo for comparison. I have yet to use these, so they still have the protective plastic dip on the ends, but they look spectacular, almost mirror finish, and appear pretty sharp. I can't wait to have a project to try them out on! YinTx trying to upload a photo.. but getting blocked. I'll add it when I can...
  15. Just a quick video for those asking how I am stitching my leather. Just one of many techniques I have learned in the last year I have been doing leather work. I am using Coats Barbour 18/3 Ecru linen thread. This is a 3.38mm stitching iron making the marks, and using a 35mm Vergez Blanchard Awl. I get a very nice separated angled stitch with this technique. For straight stitches or angled stitches that the thread stays touching, I use different methods. Hopefully the link works. YinTx
  16. www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3QZ1tHEvSU This is a video that shows you how to hide your stitches. I was not going to show this video. Because I did not do the cut to my usual standard. However I decided it will show you how it is done and you could take your time to do the cut. When I was doing it I was trying same time as watching the camera to make sure you could see what I was doing. The camera was also in my way.
  17. This is a video where I show how to hide the thread when you stitch the opposite side of a strap. Some people call it a Hermes turn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kve8GE3zZnY
  18. I've searched these forums and lots of other web resources for hand-sewing techniques to little avail... so I'm starting thread in the hopes others here will contribute their expertise and experience. Sometimes you want or need to handsew something and a saddle or whip stitch just isn't what you want. I looked for a long time without much success which leads me to believe this is either: 1) So simple caveman did it. Or 2) We think everyone just knows this stuff!!! Forgive me if this falls into either of the above two categories but when I started I didn't know how to do this. (Disclaimer: I lay no claim to the following's invention or development other than to offer it up here as a useful technique and hope that others will add more.) Bar X Stitch As always, begin at the beginning: Layout Wing divider 1/4" (Over)Stitch Wheel 5 spi Punch (make some holes) Hand Punch Awl Needle and thread #4 harness needles. How much thread? I use the “8x2” method. 8 wraps around front and back of the sewing line (front AND back being the “2”) rather than 16 times the stitch line it’s quicker for me. Use whatever works for you though. First Stitch Both needles through from the back; in this case the flesh side and pull even the thread length. Next we take the right needle (it doesn’t matter which needle you choose but be consistent! Do each complete stitch exactly as each previous stitch.) You can begin with a tie by taking each needle into the opposite threaded hole and back out its original hole from the fleshside if you like but I haven’t here (see last images). Step 1 of Stitch Okay… NOW we take the right needle into the 2nd left diagonal hole and back out its opposite (straight across) right hole. Step 2 of Stitch Next we take the left needle (the needle being used is always the one in the frame) into the diagonal right hole and back out its opposite left hole. This makes the “X” (remember the needle in the frame is the needle we just used) (Backside view) This is the “Bar”. Notice the two threads overlap on this side. Pull thread snug to tight on the flesh side. Next Stitch Repeat steps 1 and 2. What it looks like front and back. I’ve transitioned to simple X stitch to show the differences. “Bars” on one side, “X”s on the other gives us Bar-X. It’s extremely strong especially for curve binding. The key to making this stitch is “don’t let go of that needle once you begin a stitch until the needle is back topside” and always begin your next stitch with the same needle left or right. If you are working around a form or a long run curved needles do help. This example has a “tie” at the top and bottom. To finish and to paraphrase Socrates: “I myself know nothing, just a little, enough to extract discussion from another, who is wise and will receive it fairly.” Please add a stitch to complete this thread… (yeah, I know…. that's punny )
  19. Note: I conducted a search of the forum before posting this, however if I missed a discussion please forgive me (and fire over a link to it). I'm looking to get into making leather boxes, and I would like to find portmanteau/inverse/reverse pricking irons similar to Joseph Dixon slanted style. Even Goods Japan/Craftsha diamond style would be fine. I have searched the internet, but have not yet found any options other than Vergez Blanchard which is way outside of my budget at this time. Thanks in advance for any information you care to share.
  20. This a video showing a couple of tips when hand stitching. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-x-UYwi7yo
  21. Does anyone know if the Kyoshin Elle pricking irons are still available? Mine suffered a sad fate in a house fire, and I was hoping to replace them, but I can't seem to find them available anywhere. I would appreciate any help finding a source! YinTx
  22. Pretty excited to finally get to make something after being away so long. My aunt had requested a new checkbook cover, she didn't want anything fancy, so I hope she enjoys this one. I am clearly out of practice on my hand stitching, but other than that and a few small errors here and there (forgot to burnish the pen holder edges before I stitched it up---Aaargh!) I think it still turned out ok. Open to suggestions for improvements, as I think I'll make a similar one for myself. Please let me know what ya'll think! Thank you! I will put more photos in the gallery: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=gallery&album=2662 YinTx
  23. Hey guys, I want to get more into handstitching, especially on bag handles.. Right now my handstitching doesn't look great. I've heard there are some pricking or stitching irons that you can use to punch the holes as well (as opposed to marking the leather then using an awl). I have a set which I've been using like that, but the holes don't look as clean as I'd like.. Does anyone have a recommendation for some pricking irons that would work for punching clean holes? Affordable is a plus! I'd love to know what you expert stitchers are using.. Thanks!
  24. Yes I know that there is a forum on sewing, but It is dominated by machine sewing. I would like to see it split into two forums, one for machine sewing and one for hand stitching. -- Tex
  25. I purchased my first Dixon pricking iron - 6SPI, 1 inch - two months ago. I noticed that the prongs are not centered. I was told by the distributor that this is how they are designed. When I held the iron perpendicular, it flew out of my hand when I struck it. My other irons (Blanchard, Seiwa) are symmetrical. My questions: Why does Dixon grind them this way? Is there a special technique for using them?
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