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Showing results for tags 'belt'.
Found 240 results
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Hi all. Back again with the Juki 1541 with its issues. When I rotate the hand wheel it is fine and smooth up until the needle gets to its lowest point. It then becomes very stiff and I have to use a significant amount more force to continue the rotation. I have felt the belt and although it does feel tighter at this point in the rotation it still moves if poked. Here's a video showing the point where it becomes very stiff. https://i.imgur.com/SVInN6b.mp4 Is this normal? My previous thread about the hook not stopping in the same place I believe is caused by this. If I set my needle positioner to stop at the point shown in the video, sometimes it will continue the rotation and kinda bounce back. I thought this was due to backlash in the gears however I now wonder if its due to the stiffness. It seems to need more force to get past the "stiff" point and then this is too much and it carries on the rotation when it should have stopped. Any ideas? -
I have a slightly used Tippmann embosser for sale. This is a very nice unit well-built and hard to find. Machine allows you to do embossing, creasing and cutting. Comes with embossing wheel that is on the machine in the picture as well as the accessory pack shown in pictures. Table not included. Asking $950 plus shipping.
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Commission from @outlawarchive That’s the Straight Satans patch on the back.
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Hi, Can any one help me get the exact position of the holes in a 3 holes belt? I currently do 5 inch from the strap end for 5 holes. Also, what size should the hole punch be if the buckle pin is 4mm wide? I saw it in an hermes belt that they do 3 holes configuration but I’m finding to hard to what distance to punch the holes from either ends.
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Hi everyone, I wanted to share that I have many new buckles for sale in my ETSY store https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/ReliquariaMedieval . These are all authentic historical shapes, but the best part is, they are not the kind of designs you can find in the average craft store. I've been lucky enough to have a couple of fantasy armourers work with me and the buckles (and armour -wink!) look great. I've had some questions about the quality of these items - they are solid brass/bronze (depending on the amount of tin), very heavy and strong. They are cast pieces so each one is unique and you will see slight imperfections from the casting process. If there ever is a problem, I will always replace the broken piece (but of over 600 sales I've only had one broken piece). I would be honoured if you would consider using some of my items in your designs. -Ellaire Here's a couple more.
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Hello all, new to the forum and new to Leatherworking in general. I have a couple questions about making my own suede weightlifting belt. First is if sandwiching veg tan between suede what's the best edge treatment? From what I've read Fiebings edge coat, Giardini or Fenice is the route I want to go. Second is what variety of weights should I use? For strength and rigidity should I use 9oz veg tan and 2 layers of 3-4oz suede or do 2 layers of 5-6oz veg tan and 2 layers of 2-3 oz suede. General thickness should be 1/4- 3/8". Attached is a picture of what I'm shooting for! Thank you for your time and feedback!
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Hello guys, I'm a newcomer in the leather universe. My first acquisition is a natural veg tan belt. My concern is to start well with it, so I had few questions to target a nice patina over time. In the first place, do I need to use any kind of treatment before/during use ? Is it possible to accelerate aging process without reducing patina potential ? Have you any general warnings or advices ? Thanks by advance
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Here is a video we did a couple weeks ago. We show how to find the middle of a belt to put a name in. Also, we talk about and show how to space letters. It is an hour long, but we have fun and answer some other questions. Customizing a Belt https://youtu.be/9-CfbHUnw1I
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Not a hugely custom ordeal going on here, but I thought some ya might wanna see this very cool old buckle set. Made replacement belt to suit the buckle set. They said just "pitch" the old leather, but turns out I'm not too good at "pitching" what was a gift from husband to wife "back when"... they'll need to throw it out themselves if they don't want to keep it This is the "hers" version - "his" got shipped out due to we needed the space. Maybe they'll send us a pic of the two matching belts once they have the second one. Still need to hit the edges and apply some finish ...
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This is the first belt I ever made and it was for my son who is active currently. He really liked it and wears it daily. Cheers all! -
Hello, guys! So as a leatherworker, I thought I should be wearing a belt that I made... so I made one my style... thick. I used two pieces of 9 oz leather at 1.5 inches wide... do the math and you get an 18 oz thick belt. I glued the flesh sides together and then stitched it up so I have the smooth on both sides. It's like lining it with itself. It should last the rest of my life as well as my future kids and grandkids and so forth. It will also make a very good spanking strap. (Note: I did not make my dad one.) Comments/critique welcome. Oh, and before you ask, no, I didn't win the buckle. Thanks for looking! -Ryan
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This was the first belt I stitched on the CB3200. Had to move the keeper closer than expected to stay off the letters when in center hole. Overall I like it. He was pretty dang excited about it. Cheers all!
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I haven't really worked with leather before so I'm a bit out of my depth but I have an old belt that is starting to fall apart but it is quite important to me and I would like to be able to keep wearing it if possible. It isn't lined or anything it's just one piece of leather with stitching down the sides which is all starting to unravel. It also has a few surface cracks and the shape is quite warped. The best idea i have so far is to contact cement a thin backing onto it and then re-sew the edges. Is this going to be a lot harder than it looks or are there a lot of problems I'll probably run into? I'm fine with the sewing, cutting, detail work etc but have no experience with leather specifically and I really don't want to ruin it. I'm not really concerned with restoring its appearance as much as conserving its ability to hold my trousers up without breaking. If anyone has any helpful tips it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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For sale, used Randall NSB belt bevelers. I have 4 to choose from. from $2000 to $3200 I also have a Galli Tc 3000 for $3500
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I prepared this file quicker than the previous one (Archery Arm Guard - Pattern & Instructions) posted a few days ago in the Leatherwork Conversation section - I'm a bit lost among all these sections..., but it should be understandable enough although instructions are more limited. Dead link removed. Fred's domain name is unregistered and he hasn't been around since 2014. I have posted a copy of his file at the end of this thread. Enjoy and share! Fred
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Hermann Oak British Brown belt straps, need to sell, Very nice sheen, Not the color I use, - 1.5 inch width black edge belt straps, 10-12 oz., 3.90/ft. 1.25 inch width black edge belt sraps, 10-12 oz., 3.50/ft. Straps up to 9 feet, shipping via priority mail actual cost.
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Hi all, Posted this in 'Critique my work' before realising that it might be better suited here. Not sure if there's a difference between braiding/plaiting or whether it's just a regional difference. Full album: https://imgur.com/a/Wmh78QF Followed Ron Edwards' book (https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/PREBSPBw/Stockmans-Plaited-Belts/pd.php) and the instructions for a 'Flat 10 Strand', using Maroon 4.7 mm Kangaroo lace. Overall pretty happy with it, but hoping there may be someone here with some experience or tips, as there isn't much out there. Challenges: Really struggled for consistency when bending the lace back into the plait on the edges - sometimes it would 'curve' or bend nicely, other times it would kink and there'd be no fixing it as the roo lace is so thin. You need to maintain tension to get a tight weave, but again because of the thin lace this creates tension creasing. Things to improve next time: I used Golden Mink oil to re-hydrate the finished product, but I think next time I'll use the oil on the individual strands before plaiting to encourage a smoother/less creased result. The belt ended up being 3 cm wide, so too feminine to use for myself, but my wife seems to like it! I assume I need to either up the strand count or use a heavier lace for a wider more masculine belt. I'll go for the two ring style, rather than the buckle next time. Keen for feedback and tips!
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Several years ago I bought some Alden boots made with chromexcel. Finally decided to make a matching belt. I read chromexcel was a little too stretchy for belts and decided to do a veg tan liner. I made the belt too thick the first time. It's gorgeous leather, but just won't fit through the belt loops. I'm sure I can find a way to reuse it eventually. Anyway, here's take two. I've still got some things to improve with my work. Stitching with diamond chisels always looks great on one side and flat on the other. I may need to cast the stitches on one side or something. When I use French style pricking irons it always works out fine. Go figure. Also need to work on my backstitching. Luckily no one will ever see those when I wear the belt. The oval belt holes are a little wonky, but I'll eventually get them lined up better. Hope the closer spacing doesn't cause problems, but I like the extra flexibility. Edge paint is tricky. I bought two 1.5" straps and lined them up as well as I could. Probably would have worked better to get and oversized liner and trim after glue up. One of the things I did better this time was skiving the turnback. In order to keep the veg tan strength, I skived the turnback on the chromexcel before I glued the two straps together. Also got a better impression with my maker's mark than usual. Who knew that thing could be so finicky! My hometown, Bristol, is on the Tennessee/Virginia border. On State Street, between the center lines on the street are bronze markers that look just like the buckle. The artist who made the buckle is originally from Bristol but now lives and works in California. -
Times are difficult for all of us, so I have decided to extend the introductory sale pricing through the month of May on the Horse Creek Leather Works belt hole alignment/marking system. Regular price $74.95 – introductory price $59.95 including shipping to the lower 48. The system consists of 2 jigs that center and space your holes perfectly and quickly every time. The tip and buckle end jigs both have adjustable stops with the tip end marked at 6 ½”, 7”, 7 ½”, 8”, and 8 ½” from the center hole. The tip end has two versions, one with hole spacing at ¾” on center and 1” on center. Simply place over the belt and slide up to the belt end, close the sides against the belt, mark with the provided marking tool or your punch and you have perfectly spaced and centered holes. We call it the FTM-CTM (faster than measuring-cheaper than machine). You can order by credit card at https://hclw-belt-tool.square.site. They can also be customized at extra cost on a case by case basis. email: butch@horsecreekleatherworks.com phone 828 528 1831 Thank you
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I bought some 2nd hand mens belts just for the buckles. I disassembled them to study the materials and method. Here are the 4 different types I found: 1) outside top grain with thin lining next to body. 2) top grain outside unlined 3) outside thin lining top grain next to body 4) outside thin lining, inside bonded leather, thin lining next to body #3 was a surprise that offers the opportunity to use chrome tan and colorful outside with top grain strength. The edge of the top grain had been machine skived to reduce the force needed to sew the edges. Summary: cheap buckles from 2nd hand; interesting sandwich for beauty and strength if not tooling the top grain.
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Hey everyone, just finished up a belt for myself (at last) and figured I’d share it here! The tooled side is 7-8 oz and the liner is 4-5 oz, both HO. I’d love to hear any feedback that y’all have! -
Hi I'm Mark from Floyd,Va. I'm a ups truck driver by trade, leather work as a hobby. I started doing leather work about 8 months ago because I eventually want to make handmade knives and want to he able to make my own knife sheaths. I made some Christmas presents for family members ( to practice on) Lol! I've posted a few below.
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Introductory pricing through the month of March on the Horse Creek Leather Works belt hole alignment/marking system. Regular price $74.95 – introductory price $59.95 including shipping to the lower 48. The system consists of 2 jigs that center and space your holes perfectly and quickly every time. The tip and buckle end jigs both have adjustable stops with the tip end marked at 6 ½”, 7”, 7 ½”, 8”, and 8 ½” from the center hole. The tip end has two versions, one with hole spacing at ¾” on center and 1” on center. Simply place over the belt and slide up to the belt end, close the sides against the belt, mark with the provided marking tool or your punch and you have perfectly spaced and centered holes. We call it the FTM-CTM (faster than measuring-cheaper than machine). You can order by credit card at https://hclw-belt-tool.square.site They can also be customized at extra cost on a case by case basis. email: butch@horsecreekleatherworks.com phone 828 528 1831 Thank you
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Hi all, Got a problem - made a belt, painted it and covered with F cordovan antique finish paste, swiped it off after 25 min or so and after some time I used F tan-kote on it. The problem is as pictures show - it started to peel of :/ further more what should i use to protect the belt from buckle dmg.
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Hello everyone, I'm a little lost. I'm looking for a strap cutting tool for soft leather. Tried the manual strap cutting tool, but there is no way I can get it to cut straps. Of course, there's the ruler method, but apart from that, is there any reasonably priced small machine that can help me achieve this which you can recommend?
