Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'belt'.
Found 231 results
-
For sale, used Randall NSB belt bevelers. I have 4 to choose from. from $2000 to $3200 I also have a Galli Tc 3000 for $3500
-
I prepared this file quicker than the previous one (Archery Arm Guard - Pattern & Instructions) posted a few days ago in the Leatherwork Conversation section - I'm a bit lost among all these sections..., but it should be understandable enough although instructions are more limited. Dead link removed. Fred's domain name is unregistered and he hasn't been around since 2014. I have posted a copy of his file at the end of this thread. Enjoy and share! Fred
-
Hermann Oak British Brown belt straps, need to sell, Very nice sheen, Not the color I use, - 1.5 inch width black edge belt straps, 10-12 oz., 3.90/ft. 1.25 inch width black edge belt sraps, 10-12 oz., 3.50/ft. Straps up to 9 feet, shipping via priority mail actual cost.
-
Hi all, Posted this in 'Critique my work' before realising that it might be better suited here. Not sure if there's a difference between braiding/plaiting or whether it's just a regional difference. Full album: https://imgur.com/a/Wmh78QF Followed Ron Edwards' book (https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/PREBSPBw/Stockmans-Plaited-Belts/pd.php) and the instructions for a 'Flat 10 Strand', using Maroon 4.7 mm Kangaroo lace. Overall pretty happy with it, but hoping there may be someone here with some experience or tips, as there isn't much out there. Challenges: Really struggled for consistency when bending the lace back into the plait on the edges - sometimes it would 'curve' or bend nicely, other times it would kink and there'd be no fixing it as the roo lace is so thin. You need to maintain tension to get a tight weave, but again because of the thin lace this creates tension creasing. Things to improve next time: I used Golden Mink oil to re-hydrate the finished product, but I think next time I'll use the oil on the individual strands before plaiting to encourage a smoother/less creased result. The belt ended up being 3 cm wide, so too feminine to use for myself, but my wife seems to like it! I assume I need to either up the strand count or use a heavier lace for a wider more masculine belt. I'll go for the two ring style, rather than the buckle next time. Keen for feedback and tips!
-
Hello all, new to the forum and new to Leatherworking in general. I have a couple questions about making my own suede weightlifting belt. First is if sandwiching veg tan between suede what's the best edge treatment? From what I've read Fiebings edge coat, Giardini or Fenice is the route I want to go. Second is what variety of weights should I use? For strength and rigidity should I use 9oz veg tan and 2 layers of 3-4oz suede or do 2 layers of 5-6oz veg tan and 2 layers of 2-3 oz suede. General thickness should be 1/4- 3/8". Attached is a picture of what I'm shooting for! Thank you for your time and feedback!
-
Several years ago I bought some Alden boots made with chromexcel. Finally decided to make a matching belt. I read chromexcel was a little too stretchy for belts and decided to do a veg tan liner. I made the belt too thick the first time. It's gorgeous leather, but just won't fit through the belt loops. I'm sure I can find a way to reuse it eventually. Anyway, here's take two. I've still got some things to improve with my work. Stitching with diamond chisels always looks great on one side and flat on the other. I may need to cast the stitches on one side or something. When I use French style pricking irons it always works out fine. Go figure. Also need to work on my backstitching. Luckily no one will ever see those when I wear the belt. The oval belt holes are a little wonky, but I'll eventually get them lined up better. Hope the closer spacing doesn't cause problems, but I like the extra flexibility. Edge paint is tricky. I bought two 1.5" straps and lined them up as well as I could. Probably would have worked better to get and oversized liner and trim after glue up. One of the things I did better this time was skiving the turnback. In order to keep the veg tan strength, I skived the turnback on the chromexcel before I glued the two straps together. Also got a better impression with my maker's mark than usual. Who knew that thing could be so finicky! My hometown, Bristol, is on the Tennessee/Virginia border. On State Street, between the center lines on the street are bronze markers that look just like the buckle. The artist who made the buckle is originally from Bristol but now lives and works in California. -
Times are difficult for all of us, so I have decided to extend the introductory sale pricing through the month of May on the Horse Creek Leather Works belt hole alignment/marking system. Regular price $74.95 – introductory price $59.95 including shipping to the lower 48. The system consists of 2 jigs that center and space your holes perfectly and quickly every time. The tip and buckle end jigs both have adjustable stops with the tip end marked at 6 ½”, 7”, 7 ½”, 8”, and 8 ½” from the center hole. The tip end has two versions, one with hole spacing at ¾” on center and 1” on center. Simply place over the belt and slide up to the belt end, close the sides against the belt, mark with the provided marking tool or your punch and you have perfectly spaced and centered holes. We call it the FTM-CTM (faster than measuring-cheaper than machine). You can order by credit card at https://hclw-belt-tool.square.site. They can also be customized at extra cost on a case by case basis. email: butch@horsecreekleatherworks.com phone 828 528 1831 Thank you
-
I bought some 2nd hand mens belts just for the buckles. I disassembled them to study the materials and method. Here are the 4 different types I found: 1) outside top grain with thin lining next to body. 2) top grain outside unlined 3) outside thin lining top grain next to body 4) outside thin lining, inside bonded leather, thin lining next to body #3 was a surprise that offers the opportunity to use chrome tan and colorful outside with top grain strength. The edge of the top grain had been machine skived to reduce the force needed to sew the edges. Summary: cheap buckles from 2nd hand; interesting sandwich for beauty and strength if not tooling the top grain.
-
.thumb.jpg.891e1a568fe12892afcab0e6d40cb306.jpg)
Hey everyone, just finished up a belt for myself (at last) and figured I’d share it here! The tooled side is 7-8 oz and the liner is 4-5 oz, both HO. I’d love to hear any feedback that y’all have! -
Hi I'm Mark from Floyd,Va. I'm a ups truck driver by trade, leather work as a hobby. I started doing leather work about 8 months ago because I eventually want to make handmade knives and want to he able to make my own knife sheaths. I made some Christmas presents for family members ( to practice on) Lol! I've posted a few below.
-
Introductory pricing through the month of March on the Horse Creek Leather Works belt hole alignment/marking system. Regular price $74.95 – introductory price $59.95 including shipping to the lower 48. The system consists of 2 jigs that center and space your holes perfectly and quickly every time. The tip and buckle end jigs both have adjustable stops with the tip end marked at 6 ½”, 7”, 7 ½”, 8”, and 8 ½” from the center hole. The tip end has two versions, one with hole spacing at ¾” on center and 1” on center. Simply place over the belt and slide up to the belt end, close the sides against the belt, mark with the provided marking tool or your punch and you have perfectly spaced and centered holes. We call it the FTM-CTM (faster than measuring-cheaper than machine). You can order by credit card at https://hclw-belt-tool.square.site They can also be customized at extra cost on a case by case basis. email: butch@horsecreekleatherworks.com phone 828 528 1831 Thank you
-
Hi all, Got a problem - made a belt, painted it and covered with F cordovan antique finish paste, swiped it off after 25 min or so and after some time I used F tan-kote on it. The problem is as pictures show - it started to peel of :/ further more what should i use to protect the belt from buckle dmg.
-
Hello everyone, I'm a little lost. I'm looking for a strap cutting tool for soft leather. Tried the manual strap cutting tool, but there is no way I can get it to cut straps. Of course, there's the ruler method, but apart from that, is there any reasonably priced small machine that can help me achieve this which you can recommend?
-
Hello all, I have a customer that dropped a belt off for me to extend 6-8". The question is, he doesn't want it to bulky. Is it best to do a straight cut and skive the ends of the belt and extension pieces to glue together? The belt is pretty plain and has no stitching or tooling. Also, is there a good method to try and match the dye? The belt is old and has some scuffs and scrapes on it. (He doesn't mind that it'll have a new piece inserted, I just want it to match dye) Thank you, Aspen. Whispering Sage Leather
-
For sale used Randall NSB beveling machine $2900. The machine is in El Paso Tx. buyer pays for the shipping. No international shipping. Sold as-is. Items on the table are not included. I also have an older one for $1500. A new machine at Randall Campbell cost around $5000. Email me for more info. ricksaulg@aol.com
-
Hey all! Here's a couple tooled belts I did. I used Thoroughbred's golden skirting and split it. Filled in the background with a paintbrush using fiebings usmc black dye. Lined them with 3-4 oz veg tan. The one with the brand I made for a friend in exchange for a roping steer so I thought that was a pretty good trade! I'm still new to tooling belts so if have any advice on the floral design I'd love to hear it. Comments/critique more than welcome. -
Second custom beaded belt. Inlaid with 7/8oz on top and 2/3 as liner. Stitching was done on a Cobra IV with 138 thread. Had some issues with TanKote over paint (streaking), but I believe its due to the material I used to apply it. Feel free to ask questions or give feedback. Only been tooling since July and this was quite the learning experience between the dye and bar grounding. I'm realizing my beveling and tooling in general isn't deep enough.
-
Hello, I am having a small problem finishing the edges of Sedgwick English bridal. I bevel, sand, burnish with water and soap, dye, then apply a finish. For the final finish I have tried bee's wax and pearl glue (a traditional English technic). I have of course tried other methods and the order etc. I am not new to burnishing (but I am new to English bridal) and can get great looking results. What I am concerned about is wear. One thing that has been recommended to me is to use tallow fat as a filler/burnishing gum. I just can't find any at the moment Here is my problem: The edges look fantastic! Smooth, great color and shiny. But...it seems they simply will not last. After a day or so of normal use, parts of the edge seem to dry out and then the edge get fuzzy or slightly rough again (especially around the buckle). It is not bad, it just doesn't look 100% anymore. I want my customers very happy and don't want the belt wearing after a week of use. I am currently waiting to see how my latest attempt will hold. Is this normal? Am I just being overly picky? Any ideas on what I may be doing wrong or how I can resolve this? Thank you for any help you can offer! -Adam Here are some photos of how my edges look when "new" Sorry but I do not have a photo of the problem I mentioned. I will try to get a photo when I get a chance.
-
From the album: Campbell Leatherworks
-
I’ve got an older 3 phase 220 Atlas Strap cutter for sale. Bought it from an auction and couldn’t install 220 in my shop so I bought a newer 110 version. It came from a saddlery shop and was ran the week before I took it home. I have plenty of spacers and blades for it though they probably need cleaned up a bit but it would be a great addition to any shop. I have been told it would be very easy to transform to a 110 servo style motor but I just haven’t gotten around to it. I can ship at buyers cost. $800obo
-
-
This was the first belt I stitched on the CB3200. Had to move the keeper closer than expected to stay off the letters when in center hole. Overall I like it. He was pretty dang excited about it. Cheers all!
-
Hi all, it's been some time since I have posted here. I am currently working on a filigree belt with buckstitcing. The issue I am having is that the white surface is cracking in some of the stitches. Is there any way to prevent this? The lace is several years old so that could be the issue or my slits are still to tight. I waxed the flesh side with paraffin and tried opening both sides of the slit with my fid. I even used much shorter lengths of lace.has anyone ever run into this and if so what did you do to prevent it. Im thinking its because the lace is old and the surface is dried out.
-
Hi all. I recently decided to make a belt for a buckle I bought some time ago. It's a double layer of vegtan, handsewn all round, and what a mission that was! It gives me new respect for all the folks here on the forum. Made plenty of mistakes along the way, but it is around my waist as I write this. I cheated slightly, once the stitching holes were marked with a wheel, I used a tiny drill bit in a dremel stand to drill all the holes, and then opened them up with a diamond shaped awl. The reason for this was to try to ensure that the stitching on the inside stayed relatively even. I'm very glad to have made this belt, but my hands reckon that it will be a long time before trying another one. Thanks for having a look, and any advise would be welcome. -
Greetings, my name is Randall Smith and I am fairly new to the leather game. I am currently specializing in making high quality and long lasting belts. I've been hand tooling leather belts with 8-10oz Tandy Leather Hides and recently tried an 8-10oz Wickett and Craig tooling side. It seems to me that 8-10oz leather is not thick enough to be durable for a long period of time. I am wondering what leather and thickness you use in order to make the longest lasting tooled belts. I thought about buying skirting because it's typically thicker, but I'm worried that skirting sides wont be as clean. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Additionally, I have been making english bridle belts with Wickett and Craigs leather in 10-12oz. I am wondering what brand ( Hermann Oak, Wickett and Craig, etc), what style ( Harness, English Bridle, Bridle, Skirting, etc), and what thickness (oz) makes the highest quality and longest lasting belt (In your opinion). Help would be greatly appreciated, I'm trying to make the best!! Randall
