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Found 46 results

  1. Hi everyone, I am looking for a supplier for scalloped trim for chaps and purses. With and without dots. Also, leather fringe would be good too. Not Swede, I have that. Any supplies out there for these? I am in Arizona.
  2. Hi everyone, Question - what is better, burnishing or edge painting? I’m still learning constantly and i wanted to know if there’s a method that works best for veg tanned, or if either can work veg tanned and chromed tanned. Also, if there was a better method between the two, if its a matter of preference, and what do you do get the best possible outcomes? Thanks
  3. I’m hoping there is a beginning leatherworker who hopes to get some tools, because I have 4 old and not so old, edge bevelers to send to you for free by USPS Priority mail. I bought them used long ago on eBay, they need sharpening now which is easy to learn online how to do that. The Sizes are: 2, 2, 4, 5. (yes, two of size 2) Photo of edge bevelers Thanks! Ilene
  4. I want to know which material and machine do factories use to seal and coat the leather edges with a thick rubbery coat? I don't think it is Giardini, or Fiebings or Stahl or United or any of these edge coats, because I compared those to the rubbery edge coat I have on many bags and they are not the same.......I also don't think in mass production of bags they will waste time applying 3 or 4 layers of these edge coats..... I think it is a synthetic material... It could be the one in the attached photo but I don't know what is it? BTW this material is damn good and sustainable. Can anyone help me please.
  5. Dear All, I want to know which material and machine do factories use to seal and coat the leather edges with a thick rubbery coat? I don't think it is Giardini, or Fiebings or Stahl or United or any of these edge coats, because I compared those to the rubbery edge coat I have on many bags and they are not the same.......I also don't think in mass production of bags they will waste time applying 3 or 4 layers of these edge coats..... I think it is a synthetic material... It could be the one in the attached photo but I don't know what is it? BTW this material is damn good and sustainable. Can anyone help me please.
  6. i am wondering about how do the big factories finish the leather edges? what exactly do they use? which machines and materials to give the rubbery edge? i dont think they use giardini or vernice or fiebings or any other similar edge coat...... bec. i checked the rubbery edge of favtory manufactured bags and i am sure it us not normal edge paint... also for mass production they need something fast and cheap to apply on thousands of bags per day... by the way whatever they use is very elastic and lasts long.... can anyone help?
  7. So I use Barge cement to glue up my leather pieces. The glue works great, the problem is when I then go to finish the edge, you can always see the little lines of glue rather than just a perfectly smooth edge. Usually what I do is glue up the pieces, then trim to size, sand the edge, then burnish with tokonole using a wooden edge slick. No matter how much i sand you can always see the lines. I see other people's work with utterly glass-like edges where they obviously were glued together. Is it because of the type of glue I'm using? Any advice would be appreciated.
  8. I'm selling some of my leather working equipment and also some leather, to make room in our small apartment for my son's bedroom! Pickup in San Francisco please for large/heavy items including leather. I can ship the electric iron/edge creaser and zippers if you pay for shipping. VSB Burnishing Machine from Campbell Randall: Brand New (Unused) burnisher for sanding, polishing and finishing leather edges - to end all hours of manual sanding work. Includes leather felt wheel, wax stick, abrasive stone wheel, diamond wheel, and additional work table to rest your piece. New (unused) for $590 (Save $100 vs buying from Campbell Randall directly). Global Industrial Workbench - 60 X 30 inch Solid Maple Wood Square Edge Work Bench- Adjustable Height - 1 3/4" Top. Legs adjust so that table height can be from 27 ⅞ inches to 35 ⅜ inches. Like New for $235 (Save $200 vs buying new on website. Tax & Shipping only is $155 to San Francisco). Granite Hammering Stone: 12x18x3 inch solid granite tooling slab for leatherworking. Used for leather skiving, stamping, and tooling. Excellent condition. $100 (Save $52 including tax vs buying new). French Burnishing electric iron/ edge creaser: Regad M3000 6V Low voltage Power box with wood handle and Right-handed F2.5 Metal Burnish Head. This electric creasing & edging tool is a very popular product for Hermes, Louis Vuitton and other high-end craftsmen creating their iconic creased and polished edges. Regad is well known in the industry for their high quality edging tools and accessories that are made to last. This machine will substantially reduce the amount of time you spend on your edges and will give your projects a polished high-end look. Excellent condition. $400 (Save $230 including tax vs buying new). Wood Sewing Clamp: 51 inches (1.3 Meters) long wood sewing clamp for hand-stitching leather. Excellent condition. $125 (save $50 vs buying new). Hand setter for snap buttons: Hand tool for setting snap buttons on leather. Like New, barely used. $105 (save $100 including sales tax vs buying new). Italian Full-Grain Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto B. Adriacolors Italian high quality full-grain leather in black, red, and off-white. Half-drummed, soft hand and pebble grain finish. 1.2-1.4 mm thickness. Each skin is 43 to 50 sq ft. $129-150 per skin ($100 off vs buying direct and shipping). Italian Smooth Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto Nappacolors high quality, full-grain Italian smooth leather in brown, mustard yellow, burnt orange, and dark blue. Soft, high-quality touch. 1.1-1.3 mm thickness. Each half skin is 23 to 26 sq ft. $130-150 per half skin ($75 saving vs buying direct and shipping). 9. Zippers: Several high-quality zippers from Lampo and YKK. YKK Red zipper tape (11 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 3) - $55 for all or $5/meter YKK Black zipper tape (10 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $80 for all or $8/meter YKK Red zipper tape (6 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $48 for all or $8/meter YKK Beige/Off-white zipper tape (5 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5): $40 for all or $8/meter YKK Gold zipper pulls (~50 qty) in Size 5: $25 for all or $0.50 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (30 qty) in Size 5: $9 for all or $0.30 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (~50 qty) in Size 3:$20 for all or $0.40/each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T3 Light Gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 12 qty.: $18 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Magenta tape with T3 gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 4 qty: : $6 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Black tape with T5 Light gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Off-White/Light Beige tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zipper - 1 qty (120 cm long) and 1 qty (77 cm or ~30 inches long) with no pull or end stop plus 4 end stops & 6 top stops: $12 for all or $8 / finished zipper and $4 for 77cm tape Lampo Superlampo Mustard Yellow tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 6 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Copper Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Dark Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 1 qty plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Blue tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Burnt Orange tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Light Gold T5 zipper pulls - 10 qty: $5 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Gold T5 zipper pulls - 16 qty: $8 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Light Gold End stops - 14 qty: or $0.04/each
  9. Pics set of 8 better than new as they are stropped and sharp only selling because I upgraded to Ron’s Montana edgers. These are $110 plus shipping from Japan
  10. I just got some edge paint from Giardini (Italy). Until now I have used Fiebings Egde coat, but I never seemed to get any good results with it. Here's my first items using the Semi Dense tan color. Two coats, each of them sanded. Then a coat of protecting gloss. All is sealed together with a final coat of buffed beeswax. The edge feels a lot smoother than anything I have achieved before, but I still feel there's a way to go to get it even and without bubbles/cracks. Interested in hearing other tips about egde finishing. I do like a burnished egde, but the painted does look appealing to me as well. Happy to hear your inputs!
  11. Hey everybody. I've been a leathersmith for some time now but just recently started using fiebings edge kote. I premade a.... LOT of belts for a show and just the day before noticed that the edge kote was cracking and in some cases flaking off! I burnished the edges and applied the kote with an edge tool and hung them to dry. I've never heard of anyone having this problem before. Did I just get a bad batch.? Not shaken well enough? I've seen some people say you have to melt the edges? Has anybody else had this problem? If so i would really love to know how to fix it.
  12. I'm selling some of my leather working equipment and also some leather, to make room in our small apartment for my son's bedroom! Pickup in San Francisco please for large/heavy items including leather. I can ship the electric iron/edge creaser and zippers if you pay for shipping. VSB Burnishing Machine from Campbell Randall: Brand New (Unused) burnisher for sanding, polishing and finishing leather edges - to end all hours of manual sanding work. Includes leather felt wheel, wax stick, abrasive stone wheel, diamond wheel, and additional work table to rest your piece. New (unused) for $575 (Save $250 vs buying from Campbell Randall directly). Global Industrial Workbench - 60 X 30 inch Solid Maple Wood Square Edge Work Bench- Adjustable Height - 1 3/4" Top. Legs adjust so that table height can be from 27 ⅞ inches to 35 ⅜ inches. Like New for $235 (Save $200 vs buying new on website. Tax & Shipping only is $155 to San Francisco). Hand setter for snap buttons: Hand tool for setting snap buttons on leather. Like New, barely used. $105 (save $100 including sales tax vs buying new). Italian Full-Grain Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto B. Adriacolors Italian high quality full-grain leather in red and off-white. Half-drummed, soft hand and pebble grain finish. 1.2-1.4 mm thickness. Each skin is 43 to 50 sq ft. $129-150 per skin ($100 off vs buying direct and shipping). Italian Smooth Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto Nappacolors high quality, full-grain Italian smooth leather in brown, burnt orange, and dark blue. Soft, high-quality touch. 1.1-1.3 mm thickness. Each half skin is 23 to 26 sq ft. $130-150 per half skin ($75 saving vs buying direct and shipping). 9. Zippers: Several high-quality zippers from Lampo and YKK. YKK Red zipper tape (11 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 3) - $50 for all or $5/meter YKK Black zipper tape (9 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $65 for all or $8/meter YKK Red zipper tape (5 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $35 for all or $8/meter YKK Beige/Off-white zipper tape (4 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5): $28 for all or $8/meter YKK Gold zipper pulls (48 qty) in Size 5: $20 for all or $0.50 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (30 qty) in Size 5: $6 for all or $0.30 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (~50 qty) in Size 3:$15 for all or $0.40/each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T3 Light Gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 12 qty.: $15 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Magenta tape with T3 gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 4 qty: : $5 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Black tape with T5 Light gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $15 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $15 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Off-White/Light Beige tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zipper - 1 qty (120 cm long) and 1 qty (77 cm or ~30 inches long) with no pull or end stop plus 4 end stops & 6 top stops: $10 for all or $8 / finished zipper and $4 for 77cm tape Lampo Superlampo Mustard Yellow tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 1 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 6 top stops: $8 Lampo Superlampo Copper Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 7 top stops: $15 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Dark Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 1 qty plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $15 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Blue tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 1 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $8 Lampo Superlampo Burnt Orange tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $15 for all or $8 / each Lampo Light Gold T5 zipper pulls - 10 qty: $4 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Gold T5 zipper pulls - 13 qty: $5 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Light Gold End stops - 14 qty: $0.50 for all or $0.04/each
  13. I'm selling some of my leather working equipment and also some leather, to make room in our small apartment for my son's bedroom! Pickup in San Francisco please for large/heavy items including leather. I can ship the electric iron/edge creaser and zippers if you pay for shipping. VSB Burnishing Machine from Campbell Randall: Brand New (Unused) burnisher for sanding, polishing and finishing leather edges - to end all hours of manual sanding work. Includes leather felt wheel, wax stick, abrasive stone wheel, diamond wheel, and additional work table to rest your piece. New (unused) for $590 (Save $100 vs buying from Campbell Randall directly). Global Industrial Workbench - 60 X 30 inch Solid Maple Wood Square Edge Work Bench- Adjustable Height - 1 3/4" Top. Legs adjust so that table height can be from 27 ⅞ inches to 35 ⅜ inches. Like New for $235 (Save $200 vs buying new on website. Tax & Shipping only is $155 to San Francisco). Granite Hammering Stone: 12x18x3 inch solid granite tooling slab for leatherworking. Used for leather skiving, stamping, and tooling. Excellent condition. $100 (Save $52 including tax vs buying new). French Burnishing electric iron/ edge creaser: Regad M3000 6V Low voltage Power box with wood handle and Right-handed F2.5 Metal Burnish Head. This electric creasing & edging tool is a very popular product for Hermes, Louis Vuitton and other high-end craftsmen creating their iconic creased and polished edges. Regad is well known in the industry for their high quality edging tools and accessories that are made to last. This machine will substantially reduce the amount of time you spend on your edges and will give your projects a polished high-end look. Excellent condition. $400 (Save $230 including tax vs buying new). Wood Sewing Clamp: 51 inches (1.3 Meters) long wood sewing clamp for hand-stitching leather. Excellent condition. $125 (save $50 vs buying new). Hand setter for snap buttons: Hand tool for setting snap buttons on leather. Like New, barely used. $105 (save $100 including sales tax vs buying new). Italian Full-Grain Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto B. Adriacolors Italian high quality full-grain leather in black, red, and off-white. Half-drummed, soft hand and pebble grain finish. 1.2-1.4 mm thickness. Each skin is 43 to 50 sq ft. $129-150 per skin ($100 off vs buying direct and shipping). Italian Smooth Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto Nappacolors high quality, full-grain Italian smooth leather in brown, mustard yellow, burnt orange, and dark blue. Soft, high-quality touch. 1.1-1.3 mm thickness. Each half skin is 23 to 26 sq ft. $130-150 per half skin ($75 saving vs buying direct and shipping). 9. Zippers: Several high-quality zippers from Lampo and YKK. YKK Red zipper tape (11 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 3) - $55 for all or $5/meter YKK Black zipper tape (10 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $80 for all or $8/meter YKK Red zipper tape (6 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $48 for all or $8/meter YKK Beige/Off-white zipper tape (5 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5): $40 for all or $8/meter YKK Gold zipper pulls (~50 qty) in Size 5: $25 for all or $0.50 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (30 qty) in Size 5: $9 for all or $0.30 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (~50 qty) in Size 3:$20 for all or $0.40/each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T3 Light Gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 12 qty.: $18 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Magenta tape with T3 gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 4 qty: : $6 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Black tape with T5 Light gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Off-White/Light Beige tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zipper - 1 qty (120 cm long) and 1 qty (77 cm or ~30 inches long) with no pull or end stop plus 4 end stops & 6 top stops: $12 for all or $8 / finished zipper and $4 for 77cm tape Lampo Superlampo Mustard Yellow tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 6 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Copper Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Dark Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 1 qty plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Blue tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Burnt Orange tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Light Gold T5 zipper pulls - 10 qty: $5 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Gold T5 zipper pulls - 16 qty: $8 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Light Gold End stops - 14 qty: or $0.04/each
  14. What exactly is an edge creased used for? I understand it should put a nice crease line along an edge but is it fully cosmetic? Is the a feature bonus to using one? Does my crease become my a stitch line? Am I to finish my edge before or after the crease? I am fully clueless on this tool, just needing info to find out what tools to purchase as all I have is from a cheap stitching kit off Amazon.
  15. Hello, I posted a similar topic a few years ago and I'm hoping to re-ignite the subject. I've been trying different methods over the years and I still have not found a clear-cut (or even close) method of burnishing thinner (i'm using 4/5 oz) natural leather without the edges being darkened too much and without making a mess of the face of the piece (or the flesh side, for that matter). I really like the look of completely untouched natural leather, so I don't want to put any sort of conditioner/sheen on the face as they all darken the leather at least a shade. I want to keep the natural leather as white/pink as possible with minimal water/paste mess from burnishing. I'm also having somewhat of an issue with the flesh edge of the leather folding over some with the thinner leather. I might be burnishing too quickly after wetting the edge, I don't know. I am using a pro edge burnisher in my drill press which works very well. Methods I've tried: - Just water This solves the edge darkening problem and also solves the mess problem when applied extremely carefully with a dauber or your finger. However, it doesn't give a lasting extra slick finish. - Just liquid Saddle soap This gives a slick finish, but darkens the leather edge a lot and also seems to soak into the leather more, which means messy and uneven looking edges. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water This darkens the edge a bit less (still more than i'd like) and soaks in a bit less, but isn't as slick as just straight up liquid saddle soap. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water, then beeswax, then canvas burnishing. Creates a slick edge, but is very hard to keep clean, and darkens the edge quite a bit. - Gum Tragacanth Creates a good slick edge (one coat is good, two coats is better), but is really really hard to keep clean. Doesn't darken the edge as much as the straight liquid saddle soap, but still darker than I like. One thing I did discover recently is that applying gum trag to the edge with the edge of a toothpick works well for keeping it clean, but is very tedious. Should I maybe burnish the edge with just water first before burnishing with gum trag? would that help keep the trag from seeping onto the face? I guess I'm just hoping that some magician out there has come up with a magical method/product that is easy to apply/won't make a mess/won't darken the edge too much. Haha. I'm also having a hard time with applying beeswax as its hardness makes it difficult to apply a sufficient amount of wax to the edge. I was considering making a mixture of beeswax, olive oil, and eucalyptus oil to stave off mould. I've heard of a beeswax/neatsfoot solution, but would prefer to use olive oil in its place. Does anyone have any experience with a wax/olive oil blend? I prefer not to use any paraffin. Thanks again, Zayne
  16. First of all, a great hello to everyone from Slovenia! I'm a very new to the leather, although I had wish to sew it by hand for a long time before. So I came as far as trying to sew the first axe sheath for a start. I've managed to finish it as far as it comes to the edges. Here are 2 pictures, which shows my current state. I'm using 5/6 oz. veg tan leather, which is treated with several coats of Fiebing's Pro Dye (brown) and colorless Fiebing's Resolene. I'm stuck here, because I don't know how to properly finish the edges, neither would know, what the proper edge finish is. As far as I've managed to read about the leather, I came to the fact, that Fiebing's Edge Kote is one of worst possible finishes on leather sheats and looks very amateur. So I've ordered Eco-Flo's Gum Tragacanth for finishing edges, but I'm still not sure about it. Am I supposed to dye the edges before I use Gum Tragacanth? Are the finishes on picture below proper edge finishes or are there any other possibilities to look properly? (the left one) And if so, how am I possible to reach them?
  17. Hello. I have a question. Recently upon diving on ebay I found these tools with what would be for me a regular edge crease that I'm used to on one end and on the other end there is a flat side which is marked a flat edge crease, it looks nice... but my question is: Is it used only for an aesthetic/decorating reason I can imagine for a belt or a watch strap or so, or does it have a functional part such as for sewing or other thing? Thank you for taking your time to answer. The link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5kind-Leather-Craft-Double-Ended-Single-Dual-Edge-Marking-Decorate-Creaser-Tool/111983104512?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=410923431202&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 and an other link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Craft-Stainless-Steel-Edge-Marking-Decorate-creaser-creasing-ebony-Tool/222488845035?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=521337234605&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
  18. Hello everyone, two years ago i lost my mom and she left me her bag. A bag that's in optimal condition and had 10 years of usage without a hitch. But ten years is ten years and the edges started cracking slightly. It was slight but iIwanted to stop it from going any further, so iIook it to a repair shop that substituted the hole edge on the handle as you can see from the pictures. I went to pick it up and the paint was all cracked iIdidn't even bother to leave iIshed them to redo it because it was in no condition. They applied a second layer that when iIpicked up cracked again on the hole. I asked if iIleft it there they could fix it they said they'd just apply more paint and assured me it would last more than the original edge (which lasted ten years mind you). I took the bag and left. Obviously parts of the paint started falling off. So here iIm desperate to somehow repair my bag and return it to its former glory and give it a few more years of usage and keep a part of my mom with me. If tthere's anyone out there that can help me iIold really appreciate it. pictures of the bag
  19. MY63

    Edge slickers

    One of our spaniels took a liking to my edge slicker, I had always thought it was a little on the small side especially as I have some restricted movement in my right hand. Anyway I decided to make my own by chance I was in my local Axminster tool store and asked the assistant if he knew of a local wood turner who might be able to make one for me. He told me that they have a demonstration day on Tuesdays and they would turn one for me FOC yes free. I ordered some oak from a timber merchant and worked out that the best thickness for my hand was 28 mm looking at the items I have made I decided to have multiple grooves of varying thicknesses. I had to buy a 1.8 m piece of timber and on arrival spoke to the man doing the demonstration he basically offered to make me as many as I wanted. I asked him to make three using one third of the wood I gave him the rest. Picture one shows what is left of the original with the larger replacement the inner part is rounded to give well rounded edges 20170621_105856[1] by my0771, on Flickr Picture two is the same style but with flat bottoms for square edges it also has an extra groove which was an error but not the end of the world. 20170621_105837[1] by my0771, on Flickr The final example has much less of a taper at the end to enable me to grip it with my damaged hand 20170621_105812[1] by my0771, on Flickr I would have been happy to pay someone to make them for me as they are so easy to use if anyone is interested they are 200 mm long and 28mm in diameter I chose grooves that suited the sizes of leather that I use the most.
  20. Hi everyone, I've been poring over the forum threads learning all I can about finishing edges - burnishing and all - I want to do Bob Park's method, but in all my experiences I've run into a problem when it comes to using edge paints: how do you paint JUST the edge and not have any of the paint spill on to the front or back of the leather? I've tried a paint brush, dauber, q-tip, sponge - they almost always result in some paint on the front and back instead of only on the edge - and I see Bob (and everyone else who knows how to do this) has amazing contrasting edges with not a drop of colour on the front or back. So - what's the secret? I was looking at one of those electric edging tools - will that help? I work mainly in oil tanned 4-6oz and I'd like to have my edges neatly finished so they don't fray and fold. Thanks!
  21. Hi! I really like the way this company does the edges on their products (keeping the bevel) and I'm wondering how to achieve the same edge finish without burnishing to a round edge like most other leather products? (https://alstadgoods.com/products/slim-jim-whiskey)
  22. I have a project the I lined with pig skin, I did a test piece and the normal way I finish a project it with dye. the problem with pig skin is that sucks the dye up like a sponge. How do I finish this edge? with edge paint? do I try to burnish it?
  23. Hey all, I have a dumb question. I am trying to get a better burnished edge, I think what I need is to glue some canvas to one of my wooden burnishers for a dremel and use that, rather than doing it by hand. Can any of you tell me what kind of glue to use? and should I overlap the canvas so there are no gaps or just glue it seem-to-seem? Right now all I have is the green weldwood contact cement, some wood glue, and some of that white water based elmers glue. Thanks! Zayne Thanks!
  24. The Edge. The business end of a knife or cutting tool. The perfect edge occurs at the intersection of two planes, which are the sides of the knife that intersect each other; the perfect edge formed by the two planes would a one dimensional line of zero radius. This is just not attainable, because the planes are made of something whose molecule has a radius, and where they intersect an edge is formed by at least a single molecule that has a radius. In practical terms, this ain't a going to happen. Maybe in a lab, maybe. But there is a downside, it is a fragile edge that won't hold up and will round over to the point that it is less sharp but more durable. That is the scientific claptrap. Our best edge is going to be rounded to the point that you and I can see it with a loupe. I have four loupes, a 5x, a 10x, a 20x, and a 30x, and some comparator scopes that go way beyond that. If I take a brand new Irwin Utility knife blade out of the box and look at the edge under 5x, I can see the edge. At 10x the edge is obvious, and a 30x it looks like a landing strip. Quality scalpels are somewhat better, but still a highway at 30x. Quality of the plane grinds (facets, bevels) and polish are an important in attaining a small radius, but included angle of the edge (plane 1 degrees from centerline + plane 2 degrees from centerline) is as important a factor. The size of the radius will increase with the size of the included angle. Unfortunately, the durability (how much strength or metal is behind the edge) decreases with the decrease in included angle. We are always fighting the metal to get the best balance between edge radius and durability. Utility knives, razors, scalpel,s and anything of that ilk sacrifice durability for sharpness. Sharpen often or put in a new disposable blade. So edge angles are going to be minimal, but these things will really cut; for a while. So what is the proper angle for a knife edge? I feel a range of 20° to 50° is about right, but covers a lot of territory. I guess some examples might be appropriate. Bench Knife or skiver -- 20° to 25°, maybe even 30° Shoe Utility Knife -- 25° to 30° Pocket Knife -- 25° to 30° Kitchen Knife -- 25° to 35° Head Knife -- 20° to 25° Wood Chisel -- 25° to 35° depending on use Planer Blade -- 40° Axe -- 40° to 50° Lawnmower Blade -- 90° or a bit less Art
  25. Hi! I have read a lot about edge burnishing but none of it looks like this. It almost looks like it has a wax type coating and i see this a lot on designer bags and overall bags at the stores. How is the edge done like this? It looks so even! Thank you so much!
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