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Found 33 results

  1. Hello! I just got a Singer 31-15. The man who used it before me used it very well and it is in great condition! I changed out the belt and everything runs smoothly except for one thing. The straight stitches come out slightly slanted all uniformly. They're not all straight but in a weird diagonal line and I'm not sure why. It doesn't matter what fabric I use it always comes out this way. Does anyone know how I can fix this? The image I attached shows the problem. I'm using a #69 nylon thread with a 100/16 leather needle on some thin leather. Thank you!
  2. Hello Helpful Folks Can anyone help me identify this type of stitching? What kind or type of sewing machine makes this stitch? Image is from a vintage leather Doctor style bag or suit case that I'm remaking around the existing hardware. It appears to me that the leather panels were stitched together using a unique machine...Possibly a post bed or??? Certainly some hand stitching seems to have been used but its not totally clear? A lot of these cases were made and there was likely special machines used in the manufacturing process. Anyone have information? Thank you in advance! Silverd
  3. Newbie here. I have a Singer 211g266 which I can't seem to get the stitchlength to be longer than 4-5mm. Anyone can point me in the right directions to adjust it? Have read the manual available on supsew. Adjusted the needle bar rock frame and the synchronous feeding. Hook timing seems right, timing belt is aligned. Just read about the adjustment of the eccentrics, does that alter the stitchlength.? Thanks in advance
  4. Hi, Have a question about a type of stitch and also its strength. The stitch I want to know about is in this video below. It is the first stitch he does, single needle method. My questions: -1. What is the name of the stitch. He says it gives the look of the 2 needle saddle stitch method. Is it still called a saddle stitch? -2. Also is this stitch strong and if one stitch breaks, say in the middle, will they all pull through? 3-. Is there a different way to start and finish this type of stitch? I cant end it like he does with putting it between the two pieces. I just cant keep it tight to do it. So what I have been doing is when I get to the end on the second pass that takes me to where I started to end the stitch, I then just go a few more holes the opposite way(so 3 times through each hole) just a few holes, cutting it and adding a dab of glue. Appreciate any help and thank you Hand sew leather video
  5. I have a 241-11 and some how the stitch length changed on me. It is on the smallest length and I need more of the longest. I’ve read previous post which said to push the plug down and force the wheel but it’s not moving for me. Could someone explain what I may be doing wrong.
  6. When I was adjusting things on my adler 69, I've got problems with reverse stitch. After finding solutions on youtube I've made some adjustments, but I've lost the stitch length.... Two days I was struggling with a reverse mechanism, and I've found something strange - the plate, covering a slot in which the reverse stitch lever was moving, was smaller than the slot in the cast itself... reverse lever was stopping on the plate, while there was a place to travel a bit more. I've cut the plate more, to fit the slot in the cast. Now the machine works fine on reverse with full stitch length. It's quite possible that the plate have been replaced in the past, but maybe this hint can help someone. On the photo there is a mark showing where the slot was ending before cutting it to the bigger size.
  7. Hi all, Working on my first large scale saddle stitching project (a tote bag) and I'm really trying to do a good job. It's going pretty well and looks nice and slanted on the front. I'm doing a decent job of carrying that slant on the backside too, but every once in a while I'm getting a random flat stitch in the middle of my slanted stitches. When I find these stitches, I'm unpicking my way back to them and redoing them (mostly successfully), but I can't figure out what I'm doing to create them in the first place. Does anybody have any ideas? I've circle one such stitch in the attached photo.
  8. What exactly is an edge creased used for? I understand it should put a nice crease line along an edge but is it fully cosmetic? Is the a feature bonus to using one? Does my crease become my a stitch line? Am I to finish my edge before or after the crease? I am fully clueless on this tool, just needing info to find out what tools to purchase as all I have is from a cheap stitching kit off Amazon.
  9. Hey All, I'm in the process of developing durable, hand stitched tool bags for tradesmen. The first iteration I'm working on is a traditional carpenter's bag. By trade, I'm a builder who specializes in structural masonry and timber framing. I began leather working as a way to replace the old Medallion bags that I had used for years and were falling apart. I'm quite happy with where I have landed design-wise, but believe there are a few production processes that need improvement. Generally speaking, I'm looking for any guidance on how to approach stitching through two layers of 8-10oz. leather in an efficient and frustration free manner. I'm a believer that hard work will always be hard work, but it shouldn't be frustrating. Right now, there are a few of aspects that exasperate me, and I'd like to iron them out if I can. Below, I've posted a brief overview of my stitching process and a few pictures that hopefully provide further insight. I plot out all of my stitching lines and use a groove set to hollow out a channel for the stitching to lay flush into. I use a SEIWA 6x4.5mm Stitching Iron to mark and puncture all of my runs of stitching on a cutting pad. I use large 000 harness needles with 1.0mm tiger thread waxed. I use a french styled stitching clam on some aspects of the bag, but the doubled up edges don't seem to provide enough material to clamp down. I've also used a table vise to good effect as well. Also, I sometimes wet and hammer flat the edges before stitching them in place. Currently, I rely on a little scrap leather to help push the needles through. I know I need to buy or made a some sort of glove to keep my fingers free, but should I be having to force my needles through? Hopefully, this provides enough background to my current progress and situation. Let me know what I need to explain further, and most importantly what areas I need to improve upon. Thanks for taking the time to read this and help me out. Here is a link to an imager album that I had already compiled featuring pictures of my work with a further description. Best regards, Patrick P.S. Let me know if I am formatted my post incorrectly, or have posted in the wrong place. I am still learning the rope of this forum. Thanks again
  10. Hello leathercrafters, So far I've been using Seiwa diamond stitching chisels. I was Pretty much satisfied wit them however I decided to give a try to another irons. Since Wuta and Crazy Cut chisels are in same price range and reviews found on internet are rather good for both brands I wonder if anybody have Experiences with both of them. I look forward to hear further information / Experiences which might point me to easier decision which sets to pick Best regards, J.P.
  11. Hi experienced leatherworkers, Newbie here, first I want to thank you for your time and willingness to help, I really felt the supportive vibe from the threads that I've read on this forum. So I've been trying to figure out which sewing machine to buy that will enable me to sew the most types of sewing seen in bags. I'm really drawn to the more structured bags with defined geometries, but I could not in my head imagine how I would sew the inside of a bag such as Building Block's beautiful square cross-body bag. It looks like the sides are in one continuous piece of leather and are sewn onto a square back. But looking at the stitchwork, I simply have no idea how a sewing machine can achieve this. Another example is Mansur Gavriel's sleek crossbody bag. here's a quick one, the side edges of a typical leather tote are sewn by a transverse cylinder sewing machine right? Thank you all!
  12. This is my very first sewing machine I'm not sure this is right. I can't believe how damn fast it is. I can't get a straight line or stop it in time. How the *&^% do you all control these machines I had to count all my fingers this first time I lit it up! Anyway,I want to post up some pic's of the stitches in 16OZ I've been able to do after two days for tweaking. If someone could take a look at these pic's and advise on what I should do next. Much appreciated! I did get an owners manual and the parts list. If someone here can advise me on how to post them I'd be happy to. Each is a little larger than the 1.46mb allowed I need the machine to do totes, belts and (hopefully) holsters. I got to slow it down. What servos do the best job.
  13. Hi - Newbie Here I am inlaying braids between two layers of leather. I need to hand stitch the layers together (don't have a machine) and so I've been using diamond chisel punches to mark the holes for stitching. I've tried gluing the layers together before punching the holes but unfortunately this is breaking some of the braid so I think I need to punch the holes in both the leather layers together before putting all the layers together. Any recommendations on how to keep the leather layers straight while punching so the leather and holes will line up when I begin stitching? Also, when I'm punching the holes I notice the front is nice and straight but the back is not. Is there a good way to make sure the stitching lines on the back stay straight? I'm using 3 - 4 oz leather. Any help would be great!
  14. Hello Guys, I need your help to clarify my head from this "gusset problem". I'll try to keep it short in my story and case. I try to make a card case with gusset. Material : 3 oz vegetable tan leather I've already watch how to count the leather gusset to measure the body and how to stitch it with the main body in nigel armittage video on you tube. So he shows how to hole the leather using the awl, after you hole the other side with the diamond prong. Its true because after you glue the gusset and body, it will be difficult or even impossible to hole it with diamond prong. If I hole one side and the the other side separately, the hole won't be match (because the gusset is curved) So here's what I do: 1. Cut Gusset and measure the body. 2. Using V gouge from ebay (not really a v gouge) - V Gouge I used - with 0.5 cm mark from edge (for folding) on gusset part. 3. Hole the Gusset with 0.3 cm stitching mark from edge (because the curve its on the gusset). 4. Attach the body and the gusset. 5. Using the awl to hole the body from hole in the gusset (step #3) - failed #1 - the hole is zig-zag not straight. note: already sharpen the awl but still hard to penetrate the leather from gusset to body (trouble with motion, to narrow). 6. Stitching - failed #2 - why it pulled inside? Am I pulling the thread to tight? 7. Finish but when I look at the edge - failed #3 - 8. DONE I have think several cause about this "failure": (list of thoughts) 1. Maybe the Gouge not proper? Should I fold it with water after cut and gouge? 2. The material 3 oz leather is not proper for gusset? 3. Should I mark the gouge 1 cm instead 0.5? So the gap can make me easier for stitching? 4. Should I mark the body first instead of the gusset? (but in this case the gusset have a curve, not the body) *** I haven't done my "list of thoughts" with action because I'm afraid to waste another material. So before my next experimental, I hope you guys can help me, share your thoughts about this case. Maybe you have already done this and know the trick to stitch the gusset more easy? Just preview my thread it looks like a journal. Sorry for my bad english ^_^
  15. Hi, I have a relatively simple leatherworking job that I'm looking to offer to someone either in/near Norfolk, Virginia, or Portland, Oregon (I live in VA, but the majority of my business is located in OR). I have a straightforward wallet design that I need someone to construct. I'm considering two methods of manufacture. 1) Having the leather laser-cut (including stitch holes) and then hand sewn. 2) Having the wallets die-cut and sewn by machine. Either way, the requirements will be relatively basic. If you live in or near Virginia or Oregon, and have an interest in this work, please let me know by personal message. Further, if you have contact information for someone or some business that may be interested in this work, please forward it to me. FYI, this job probably will not begin for the next few months, but I'm trying to get things in order now. Also, I'm currently at sea with the US Navy, so my response time may be delayed. Thanks!
  16. I almost never work with heavier than 8oz leather. Most of my sewing is on scabbards, sheaths and holsters.While I'm ok at hand stitching there are times when it's just a drag. A lady at work was telling me that a heavy duty machine should be able to do the trick on what I'm sewing. She claims to have made boots on hers only going to a commercial boot shop to get the soles stitched and glued on. I know I'll hear right tool for the job but as a hobbyist I really don't want to plonk down $$$ on something that doesn't aid in making a living. Plus I think I'd likely take more chances with some leather projects if there wasn't so doggone much manual labor involved. Opinions?
  17. I just received my Cobra class 4:) never owned or even used a sewing machine before. its a challenge, but what I would like to know is, how do I make using this easier? I hand stitch everything, so when I received my tax return, I bought the cobra. no telling when an opportunity would allow me another chance, so I jumped. is there any advice on practices or even places that instruct on this matter:) I have tons of crap, and soon that will run out at the rate I'm going. I only ask, because I really don't want to learn poor habits, instead id like advice of some good habits to build on. Thank you:)
  18. Hi folks, Today I got crazy and decided to make an iPhone case with sew on tag (label). This meant to be a gift for my sister and she is a huge fan of Star Wars theme. Most icon character is Darth and I decided to make it with my new Amy Roke pricking irons in size 8 spi and Barbour thread 18/3 in natural colour. To be honest I should to choose 18/4 as it's looks much better with those irons. To find a picture, print it out, transfer it on the leather, punch through, saddle stitch, crease all the lines around and finish edges in aluminium colour took me almost 3 hours which is not bad at all. There is a pad on the inside cut from soft nappa skin. This will give more 3d look on the final item. So tomorrow need to prepare a case-pouch for the phone and to stitch this on top. P.S.: It's raining. Again. Aleks from London
  19. I've searched these forums and lots of other web resources for hand-sewing techniques to little avail... so I'm starting thread in the hopes others here will contribute their expertise and experience. Sometimes you want or need to handsew something and a saddle or whip stitch just isn't what you want. I looked for a long time without much success which leads me to believe this is either: 1) So simple caveman did it. Or 2) We think everyone just knows this stuff!!! Forgive me if this falls into either of the above two categories but when I started I didn't know how to do this. (Disclaimer: I lay no claim to the following's invention or development other than to offer it up here as a useful technique and hope that others will add more.) Bar X Stitch As always, begin at the beginning: Layout Wing divider 1/4" (Over)Stitch Wheel 5 spi Punch (make some holes) Hand Punch Awl Needle and thread #4 harness needles. How much thread? I use the “8x2” method. 8 wraps around front and back of the sewing line (front AND back being the “2”) rather than 16 times the stitch line it’s quicker for me. Use whatever works for you though. First Stitch Both needles through from the back; in this case the flesh side and pull even the thread length. Next we take the right needle (it doesn’t matter which needle you choose but be consistent! Do each complete stitch exactly as each previous stitch.) You can begin with a tie by taking each needle into the opposite threaded hole and back out its original hole from the fleshside if you like but I haven’t here (see last images). Step 1 of Stitch Okay… NOW we take the right needle into the 2nd left diagonal hole and back out its opposite (straight across) right hole. Step 2 of Stitch Next we take the left needle (the needle being used is always the one in the frame) into the diagonal right hole and back out its opposite left hole. This makes the “X” (remember the needle in the frame is the needle we just used) (Backside view) This is the “Bar”. Notice the two threads overlap on this side. Pull thread snug to tight on the flesh side. Next Stitch Repeat steps 1 and 2. What it looks like front and back. I’ve transitioned to simple X stitch to show the differences. “Bars” on one side, “X”s on the other gives us Bar-X. It’s extremely strong especially for curve binding. The key to making this stitch is “don’t let go of that needle once you begin a stitch until the needle is back topside” and always begin your next stitch with the same needle left or right. If you are working around a form or a long run curved needles do help. This example has a “tie” at the top and bottom. To finish and to paraphrase Socrates: “I myself know nothing, just a little, enough to extract discussion from another, who is wise and will receive it fairly.” Please add a stitch to complete this thread… (yeah, I know…. that's punny )
  20. Note: I conducted a search of the forum before posting this, however if I missed a discussion please forgive me (and fire over a link to it). I'm looking to get into making leather boxes, and I would like to find portmanteau/inverse/reverse pricking irons similar to Joseph Dixon slanted style. Even Goods Japan/Craftsha diamond style would be fine. I have searched the internet, but have not yet found any options other than Vergez Blanchard which is way outside of my budget at this time. Thanks in advance for any information you care to share.
  21. Hi fellow leather-workers, I’m new to leather working and trying to figure out the best ‘order’ to do things in. Bellow is a list of steps I typically take during leather working – I would love some feedback on what you think is the correct order to do things in? 1. Cut pieces 2. Bevel Edges 3. Sand Edges & back side of leather 4. Neatsfoot Oil to soften leather 5. Gum Tragacanth to slick edges & back side of leather 6. Groover & Stitching Spacer (dampen leather for this) 7. Dye leather 8. Apply finishing coat 9. Sew leather pieces together Would you change this order at all? If so, what would you do differently?
  22. Hi everyone, My name is Aleks and I am from London. Also Russian speaking Two months ago I decided to start practising in making leather goods. I do not make any big projects until I will be confident in all processes like pattern cutting, stitching and finishing edges. This is my last creature, a trolley coin keyring. Materials: black smooth calfskin, natural colour 18/3 Barbour thread and Fenice grey edge paint. Tools: Pro-Line diamond chisel 6spi (new Amy Rokes irons 8spi already ordered), soldering iron withbrass tip from aliexpress (need to order proper Regad Fileteuse with F2 tip), sand paper 400 grit. A nice slanted stitch using single knot and crease line was made using regular soldering iron. This project was made to test new way of stitching and new edge paint. Fenice is much betterthen Giardini. Almost ready to switch my direction to Leo Degarmo brand. Thank you
  23. Hello everyone, I'm hoping someone can help me. I've looked in the forum but I can't find this information. I'm new to leatherwork and looking into buying my first sewing machine, I've read a lot of threads and have a few machines in mind, but my question is, can the machines in the $2,000 range do stitches starting outside of the leather? If that doesn't make any sense please take a look at the attached image, I'm looking for a machine that can do the stitch on the left, that starts outside of the leather, as opposed to inside as in the right image. I apologize if I'm not using the right vocabulary, but like I said I'm very new. Thanks in advance for your help. RG
  24. I had a coworker give me a buckskin side and all he wants in return is a pair of gloves or something made from the leather. I've found some instruction on a pattern and making gloves but most of them are using machines to stitch which I don't have. I am going to hand stitch a pair of them for him, but I have one glove cut out for practice. Yowza, what is the best way to mark the spacing for my stitching? It seems tougher than veg tanned leather to penetrate with my diamond awl, or maybe just because it is softer.
  25. YinTx

    Stitching Pony

    I have a large stitching horse, so for sale: Fairly new Tandy Stitching Pony. $15 plus shipping. Paypal. YinTx
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