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Found 77 results

  1. I'm fairly new to leathercraft and one topic that I still have so many questions on is dyeing and treating leather. There's just so much stuff out there and everyone does it all differently. Now, I understand that a lot of it comes to experience and mostly personal preference, but I'd love to hear some tips/ opinions here on a few matters: 1) I currently dye using Fiebing's Leather Dye. I diluted the stuff with spirits since I found that without diluting, the colors are too intense. Whatever type of brown I used would all turn out dark brown for example, and my blue was getting too close to black for my taste too. So, I diluted the stuff. Works kinda.. I know the alcohol makes leather stiff and I'm really considering switching to Fiebing's pro dye. I've heard that this doesn't make your leather stiff although I've also read otherwise. Anyway, in the case of leather dye.. what can I do to prevent this terrible stiffness? Should I do something after dyeing, before, or both? Tips and tricks are very much welcome. 2) I've read quite a lot on this forum about Neatsfoot oil. I've read people use it to treat leather before dyeing and maybe after, I'm not sure. However in many video's I've watched here and there I've never really seen anyone use neatsfoot oil. So I'm curious, does it really help to add this before dyeing, for example? I've owned a bottle once and all I can remember from it is that I thought it smelled really bad.. I really hope someone can share their tips/tricks/opinions/knowledge on these matters. Cheers, Iris
  2. I'm selling some of my leather working equipment and also some leather, to make room in our small apartment for my son's bedroom! Pickup in San Francisco please for large/heavy items including leather. I can ship the electric iron/edge creaser and zippers if you pay for shipping. VSB Burnishing Machine from Campbell Randall: Brand New (Unused) burnisher for sanding, polishing and finishing leather edges - to end all hours of manual sanding work. Includes leather felt wheel, wax stick, abrasive stone wheel, diamond wheel, and additional work table to rest your piece. New (unused) for $590 (Save $100 vs buying from Campbell Randall directly). Global Industrial Workbench - 60 X 30 inch Solid Maple Wood Square Edge Work Bench- Adjustable Height - 1 3/4" Top. Legs adjust so that table height can be from 27 ⅞ inches to 35 ⅜ inches. Like New for $235 (Save $200 vs buying new on website. Tax & Shipping only is $155 to San Francisco). Granite Hammering Stone: 12x18x3 inch solid granite tooling slab for leatherworking. Used for leather skiving, stamping, and tooling. Excellent condition. $100 (Save $52 including tax vs buying new). French Burnishing electric iron/ edge creaser: Regad M3000 6V Low voltage Power box with wood handle and Right-handed F2.5 Metal Burnish Head. This electric creasing & edging tool is a very popular product for Hermes, Louis Vuitton and other high-end craftsmen creating their iconic creased and polished edges. Regad is well known in the industry for their high quality edging tools and accessories that are made to last. This machine will substantially reduce the amount of time you spend on your edges and will give your projects a polished high-end look. Excellent condition. $400 (Save $230 including tax vs buying new). Wood Sewing Clamp: 51 inches (1.3 Meters) long wood sewing clamp for hand-stitching leather. Excellent condition. $125 (save $50 vs buying new). Hand setter for snap buttons: Hand tool for setting snap buttons on leather. Like New, barely used. $105 (save $100 including sales tax vs buying new). Italian Full-Grain Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto B. Adriacolors Italian high quality full-grain leather in black, red, and off-white. Half-drummed, soft hand and pebble grain finish. 1.2-1.4 mm thickness. Each skin is 43 to 50 sq ft. $129-150 per skin ($100 off vs buying direct and shipping). Italian Smooth Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto Nappacolors high quality, full-grain Italian smooth leather in brown, mustard yellow, burnt orange, and dark blue. Soft, high-quality touch. 1.1-1.3 mm thickness. Each half skin is 23 to 26 sq ft. $130-150 per half skin ($75 saving vs buying direct and shipping). 9. Zippers: Several high-quality zippers from Lampo and YKK. YKK Red zipper tape (11 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 3) - $55 for all or $5/meter YKK Black zipper tape (10 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $80 for all or $8/meter YKK Red zipper tape (6 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $48 for all or $8/meter YKK Beige/Off-white zipper tape (5 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5): $40 for all or $8/meter YKK Gold zipper pulls (~50 qty) in Size 5: $25 for all or $0.50 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (30 qty) in Size 5: $9 for all or $0.30 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (~50 qty) in Size 3:$20 for all or $0.40/each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T3 Light Gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 12 qty.: $18 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Magenta tape with T3 gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 4 qty: : $6 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Black tape with T5 Light gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Off-White/Light Beige tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zipper - 1 qty (120 cm long) and 1 qty (77 cm or ~30 inches long) with no pull or end stop plus 4 end stops & 6 top stops: $12 for all or $8 / finished zipper and $4 for 77cm tape Lampo Superlampo Mustard Yellow tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 6 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Copper Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Dark Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 1 qty plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Blue tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Burnt Orange tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Light Gold T5 zipper pulls - 10 qty: $5 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Gold T5 zipper pulls - 16 qty: $8 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Light Gold End stops - 14 qty: or $0.04/each
  3. I am getting back into leatherworking now that my kids are getting older. I feel like there are some things I've forgotten, and/or I'm unsure that my old methods are acceptable to me now. Attached is a picture of bracelets I'm making. I am using fiebring dye with those little applicators that come with them and in small packs (a white puff on a little metal rod). I'm thinking that at the very least, they could be a little wider for my wider products, so I'm swiping over the leather one time. I'm reading now that some of you dilute the dye and dip for a better coat, so if you do that, how do you lay it out to dry or hang it without marring the product? I suppose I could apply some sort of resist in the letters? So, after it dries, I'm using Fiebring sheen for the finish, which is a flexible acrylic. I feel like I am wasting/spilling/soaking more of the sheen into the cloth than actually gets on the leather. Does the type of fabric I use make a difference? I also find that it pulls more of the dye off even if I've already rubbed the leather with a wet cloth. Am I doing something wrong? I used to use a spray but I don't remember what it was and I'm not sure I want to use something that might be more toxic and require a mask. What are my options for a good finish? PS. I really wish the reds were less pink! It's a beautiful color but it annoys me that I can't get true red
  4. Has anyone tried sealing their project with either Plasti Dip clear or Flex Seal clear? I'm making a set of floor board inserts for my motorcycle and thinking of sealing them with this stuff as they will get a lot of contact and rubbing, etc from my feet. I sprayed a couple of coats of the Flex Seal on a leftover piece of leather that was using to test die colors, and it looks okay, but I'm wondering how well it will hold up.
  5. Hi all, This question may sound dumb depending on the answer, but I simply don't know and I'm trying to learn. Can I use leather sheen on the flesh side of leather?
  6. LeatherWorkerGirl

    How much Resolene to apply?

    I want to know how much Resolene I should apply. I'm using Fiebieng's Neutral Resolene finish and I've read that a thick layer will show bend-spots or cracks. Need advice on this ASAP
  7. General Question - Anyone have any non-traditional tricks/advice on the application of the various finishes out there - Beeswax, Tan-Kote, Aussie Conditioner to share? Especially for weather-proofing? Also, I usually apply oil BEFORE staining but most videos I see don't start with oil. Pro/Con? This Link is an awesome weatherproofing comparison of various products and Fiebing's Resolene wins - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM But of course there are many other products out there so I'm seeking your experience as well as cheaper solutions. Specific Question - My process has been - Veggie Tan Leather, Mink Oil, Antique Gel and then some sort of finish (Fiebling's Leather Balm with Atom Wax but... I haven't found my favorite finish) - This process has done okay but whatever finish I use always strips half my gel stain off with even the lightest rubbing. How long do I have to wait?! I assume dye works better and is more even, but I like the way Gel Stain rubs into my stamps and gives them definition. So... solutions/tips for applying a weatherproofing finish to gel stain?
  8. First of all, a great hello to everyone from Slovenia! I'm a very new to the leather, although I had wish to sew it by hand for a long time before. So I came as far as trying to sew the first axe sheath for a start. I've managed to finish it as far as it comes to the edges. Here are 2 pictures, which shows my current state. I'm using 5/6 oz. veg tan leather, which is treated with several coats of Fiebing's Pro Dye (brown) and colorless Fiebing's Resolene. I'm stuck here, because I don't know how to properly finish the edges, neither would know, what the proper edge finish is. As far as I've managed to read about the leather, I came to the fact, that Fiebing's Edge Kote is one of worst possible finishes on leather sheats and looks very amateur. So I've ordered Eco-Flo's Gum Tragacanth for finishing edges, but I'm still not sure about it. Am I supposed to dye the edges before I use Gum Tragacanth? Are the finishes on picture below proper edge finishes or are there any other possibilities to look properly? (the left one) And if so, how am I possible to reach them?
  9. I have searched through the forum to find the answer to this so apologies if it is somewhere and I have not been able to find the answer! Does anyone have suggestions on the best finish to use to maintain the natural, light look of veg tan leather and that won't darken it at all/much? I know the veg tan will darken as it is used but I would like it to happen as naturally as possible. Is it even necessary to use a finish if I am not dying or tooling the leather? I make wallets/cases/bags and am also wondering how necessary it is to use any conditioner. Is a persons natural oils enough to keep the leather from drying? I have tried a few different products such as neatsfoot oil, a nf/beeswax blend, and resolene, but it seems that most darken the leather or leave it with a very unnatural, shiny look. If anyone has suggestions I would appreciate it! Otherwise I'll just keep searching for other products and keep testing and testing. Thank you.
  10. Hi everyone! Long time lurker, first time poster (or so I thought -- apparently 7 total posts) I was asked to make a black belt, and bought a black veg tan strap from Tandy. I rubbed some dubbin on it (mink oil/beeswax mixture) and the black still rubs off a bit. Can I apply Tan Kote on top of the dubbin? Thank you in advance! Jack
  11. Does anyone have a preference over paste vs liquid antique stain? Why?
  12. leesfive

    Vegi Tan Leather finishes

    Hey people~! I use vegi tan leather which bought from local shop in los angeles. I think the leather quality is not good enough. and need to make it more stronger from scratch and sun light. i use neetfoot oil and carat essence for finish.but i don't think it's enough. I like the leather quality of http://www.thepremoworkshop.com/ . Could you recommend any finishes or the method [or leather which i can buy from Online]?? Thank you~!!
  13. Hi! I really like the way this company does the edges on their products (keeping the bevel) and I'm wondering how to achieve the same edge finish without burnishing to a round edge like most other leather products? (https://alstadgoods.com/products/slim-jim-whiskey)
  14. Many years ago I had a good supply of nice sponges from tandy's, they lasted forever with spirit dyes without crumbling, they applied finish beautifully, but like many good things, whomever made them changed it, and now I can't seem to find a good sponge in this world. I'm not too worried about using crappy sponges to apply dyes, but for applying my finish I would appreciate any advice on finish application techniques or sponge recommendation. My finish application has suffered since I ran out of those coveted sponges. Cheers!
  15. Hello all, I've run into a bit of confusion lately. The more I try to research the more confused I get. I recently made a belt and dyed it with ecoflo, buffed, applied neatsfoot, buffed againm and again. Then applied satin sheen as a finish. While it looks okay I plan to experiment in the future with maybe mop & Glo. However how would I condition(think long term periodical maintenance/upkeep) this if it's already sealed with something like that satin sheen or mop & Glo? Would the conditioner be able to penetrate the Finish? Or could I use somthing like Montana pitch, or aussie instead of using satin Sheen or mop & Glo? Thanks!
  16. Hi, I have been practicing with the swivel knife and stamps for a few weeks now. My first projects were going to be checkbook covers but decided they would be a little too advanced for me at this time and the stick barrettes are needed more anyways. The barrettes will be about 2-1/2" to 3", by about 5-1/5" long. They will be dyed black. I will use a dowel rod for the sicks, I will dye those black too. I bought 4oz of Feibings black pro oil dye and from what I understand, this doesn't bleed as bad as the others. Do you think 4oz will be enough to do both? I bought a piece of 6-7oz 8.5"X11" veg tan from Springfield Leather. This should be enough to make both barrettes, but not leaving much scrap for testing I bought a set of hole punches for the stick holes. I was going to burnish the edges and the flesh side. I ordered tools for that. I was thinking that burnishing the flesh side might help make it a little more moisture resistant. I'm concerned about making the barrettes moisture resistant because our hair might be damp when we put it up. Any suggestions on what we can put on the flesh side to protect it from the moisture in our hair? I'm ok with having to reapply something every so often. on the grain side, I will tool them and plan to use Mop n' Glo mixed 50/50 with water to seal them. I read about it on here. I already had it on hand and don't have much money to work with. Does it crackle really bad? The barrettes will be pretty flexible, so I'm concerned about that. I was thinking I should apply the Mop n' Glo, then put the dowel rod through the holes and let it dry in that position. Does that make sence? the barrettes are going to be oval shaped. To cut it out, I plan to use the 28 year old swivel knife I inherited (I have a brand new one for the good stuff) It has been sharpened and I have stropped the h**l out of it. It will cut through tough, roughly 8-10oz cased veg tan in a few passes with a little elbow grease. I know there are other knives I should be using, but I'm very clumsy and feel less likely to cut myself or ruin my project this way. I know I can't do it this way for long, but I will learn the right way in time. Is there anything y'all think I should know? Constructive criticism, suggestions, ideas and insight are very welcome. I'm very sorry I have so many questions. I have no idea what I'm doing, I have no one to learn from. The person a inherited the swivel knife and stamps from got them as a gift and knew nothing about leather work. I know absolutely no one that has worked with veg tan leather. I don't even have access to leather working books through our library because of personal reasons. All I really have is the Internet, just this website really. I have learned a lot here the last two weeks already. Please don't suggest any wool products, I'm allergic. Except the wool daubers should ok since they won't come in contact with my skin. Any responses are greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read this novel lol.
  17. I would like to skive/split and finish some entire sides of Hermann Oak leather. I'd like to get them down to 3 oz (from 8-10oz) with a good, clean looking back. Does anyone know of a place that would offer this service? (I'm aware Wicket & Craig does this in-house for their leathers, but I haven't heard the same for Hermann Oak) Thanks!
  18. Greetings all, I am working on a leather coronet (crown) that I am putting gold leaf on. I need a way to finish the leather that is very resistant to scuffs and scratches so the gold leaf doesn't get scratched off. Almost like a lacquer or something like that. Floor polish? Wood polyurethane? I am not sure. Thin layers of some kind of glue maybe? I don't even know what to search for to try to find the answer on this forum so I apologize if this has been discussed before. Any experience or ideas are welcome. Thanks!
  19. Hi, I'm a little perplexed about which finishing products to use for various projects. For example, I see people carve and dye leather, then put an acrylic finish on it. Other times they dye and then put a leather conditioner or something like Snow Seal conditioner on it. Some talk about acrylic resolene. If someone uses acrylic, then 6 months from now wants to put some conditioner on the leather, you cant do that because the acrylic blocks the conditioner from working into the leather...so how would you ever condition old projects that have acrylic on them? What would you finish the following project with? And how would you go about conditioning the leather months from now? Book cover, knife sheath, motorcycle seat, purse, belt, key chain fob, guitar strap? Thanks
  20. PrimroseHandmade

    Using Acrylic Resoline and cracking!

    Okay y'all, so I'm a newbie to this forum and I'm still trying to navigate through the pages, so if this is something that has been resolved or answered, just kindly if y'all will link me to the response! So my delema is that I've been using acrylic resoline as a finish on all my leather goods that I make, which overall leaves a good presentation, as far as sheen and sealing/protecting goes. But what the problem ends up being is that once you bend the leather around say for a belt or like a watch strap, the Resoline seems to wrinkle and actually crack over time and use. Have any of you had this problem before? Is this just how it works out, and if it is, is there something somewhat like acrylic res that I can use? I'll drop some pics for y'all so y'all can see what I mean.
  21. Chief Filipino

    Steer Horn Polish/Finish

    So I've been typing in the search bar to try and find information that I'm looking for but haven't had much luck. I am working on a mask that I want to add steer horns on and I wanted to know how best to polish/finish them. What I ended up doing was actually rubbing the outside with beeswax, turning it over my zippo, and then buffing it with an old t-shirt. They came out decent, though not shiny. Is this a valid way to finish them? Is there a better way? I am looking to do some other artistic somethingorother with the left over horn and would like to find a way to bring out the natural beauty of the horns. Any advice? What have you done? Anyone have any pictures? Thanks!
  22. I have recently gotten an order for a Natural Leather belt. The customer wishes to have a natural belt so that it can patina with wear. This is my first time for an order of a Natural Leather belt, and I am wondering if I should apply any finish to the flesh and grain sides of the belt? I know I should not use an acrylic because that would prevent the oils and waters that create the patina from reaching the leather. But should I apply a layer of Mink oil or neats foot oil to the grain side of the leather? Should I apply a finish like Tan Kote to the flesh side to keep the fibers down? Thank you very much for your time.
  23. Hi guys, I've been having some issues with my Fiebing's Edge Kote and Eco-Flo dye leaking if the leather gets damp. What products or techniques do you use to prevent that? Normally the amount of leaking from the Edge Kote isn't terrible, but I worry about it for bag straps. Again, it's only an issue if it gets wet, but still, I'd love to find a solution! I have tried Tan-Kote, Bag-Kote, and the Eco-Flo Satin Shene without much success. I've been doing several coats and letting it have plenty of time to set. The leaking is significantly worse if I treat the leather with saddle soap before or after, which is a pity because I love its effect. I really want a fail safe way to finish edges at the least, and if possible dye my own leather without having to worry about ruining people's clothing! Thanks!
  24. I bought an airbrush and wanted to try using it to spray on my finishes. The airbrush finishes great on dyed pieces, but when i try to use it on antiqued finishes, it causes the antique to pool together and make the project look permanently smudged and "dirty". I can't quite figure out what I'm doing to cause this as I have searched this forum and found that airbrushing an antiqued finish turns out quite nicely. Here are my steps: I tool my leather Let Dry Apply a coat of Tan Kote Let Dry Apply Sheridan Brown Antique paste made by Fiebing's. Let dry/set for a while. Buff Then apply another coat of Sheridan Brown Antique Paste made by Fiebing's Let dry/Set for a while (in the case of the picture, days) Buff Try the Spray finish with Eco Flo Professional Finish Clear Gloss It still turns out looking like this. it does the same for application with a brush. it causes it to look dirty and streak. Would love some pointers. Thank you.
  25. Hello, I was wondering if it is possible to dip leather into RTC Resist and Finish? If so, is there a good technique to get it to come out right? Or is it better to just brush on with a wool dauber? Thanks!