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  1. Hello friends, I have recently inherited a very old saddle. Through a little bit of cleaning discovered that it was manufactured by the late F.O.Baird. There is not a lot of information on this maker available on the internet today. Mostly of what I dug up was related to his artwork and very little of his saddles other than their auction prices. What I did find about the saddles is that they are highly collectible and rare to find. I'm looking for a little more information -- if anyone happens to have any to share it will be appreciated. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FGUt4YYFAexcmgTD8
  2. Hi there, I am wondering if somebody could enlighten me on this subject. I bought Fiebings Antique Paste in NEUTRAL and can not figure out what is the purpose of this thing. It does not give any color, not even light tone or shade, it looks just like some finish. And do I need to put actual finish on top of this? So what do you guys use this neutral antique for? Thank you! Era
  3. Please help ID this machine. Front flywheel like a Frobana ...but too much difference???? Swiss made. does anyone have a manual? The curved needle is really a hook to pull the bottom thread to the top where it engages the upper billhook and shuttle/bobbin holder. Bottom thread is held in 2 "fingers" which present the bottom thread to the needle/hook. how do I adjust the needle to catch the bottom thread ....now it just misses.
  4. I recently bought a Singer 16-188. It was very dirty and I have replaced some parts, but it was a steal at $25.00. I am an experienced seamstress, so threading a machine isn't new to me, however, I am not sure I have this correct. I have searched and searched the internet for a diagram of how to thread this machine and I am still empty handed. When I try to sew with the machine after I have it threaded (at least my guess at threading), it won't stitch. It is connecting around the bobbin, so I don't really know what the issue is. If anyone has a diagram of how to properly thread this machine or has any idea of why it isn't stitching, I would really appreciate the input. Thank you!
  5. At least I think that's what I bought listed as "antique clamp", I figured for $20 (Canadian mind you...) How could a guy go wrong. All the screws turn, it clamps down, neat conversion peice if nothing else. There's even a plate on the bottom to keep the screw from digging into the bench. Gotta be old, any guesses? Thought I'd share.
  6. Hi all, Got a problem - made a belt, painted it and covered with F cordovan antique finish paste, swiped it off after 25 min or so and after some time I used F tan-kote on it. The problem is as pictures show - it started to peel of :/ further more what should i use to protect the belt from buckle dmg.
  7. Hey all! New member here, semi-new leatherworker. I’ve been having issues with my antique chipping off during the hand sewing process. I’ve tried quite a few different finish options: neat lac, tan kote, super sheene, rtc, Leather sheen, top finish (from eco-flo), and resolene. I don’t really want to switch from Fiebings paste, but I’m at my wits end! I’m also having issues with it sitting in my pear shade on flowers (both matte pear shade and smooth), and some custom stamps. I use soft cotton to wipe the antique, since I kind of hate working with wool. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
  8. Hey guys, me and my husband got bit and have been hooked on leather crafting. It started as a hobby a few weeks ago but we both found a passion in it. A few of his buddies from work want some stuff for Christmas so we want to make it look more 'professional' and last better. We picked up a basic tool set and some stamps. But we are pretty clueless when it comes to how to finish our leather. We have a Tandy's about two hours away we are going to next weekend to pick stuff up, but I wanted to get some recommendations on products from Tandy's you guys like. I've seen a lot about the Clear-Lac/Neat-Lac, saddle lac, tote lac, ect. We know we want to do a lot of antique finish but according to Tandy's website you dye, use a pro resist, antique finish, then neat lac. But won't a resist keep the antique from absorbing? Also, what is the proper process? So far we follow this- cut, groove, bevel edges, sand, burnish, tool/carve, oil (let soak overnight), then sew together. Is there a better method and how to do we finish? I posted my first project I did, a sheath for my throwing knives. I did the art then colored it with regular acrylic paint from Hobby Lobby (which I'm sure you probably shouldn't use). We are looking at getting the Eco flo glue, fiebing dyes, fiebing all in one antique finish, fiebing pro resist, eco flo neat-lac, and neats foot oil. Is there anything else we should get? I'm sorry for all the questions. Just want to make sure we are on the right path
  9. Good evening all, I just finished my first leather journal a few weeks ago. I tooled a viking serpent on the front: https://imgur.com/gallery/Jsuj1QK As you can see, there are many grooves and crevices in the design. My process went as follows: Dyed leather (black and brown areas) After dye dried for about a day, I applied Tan Kote After Tan Kote dried for a couple hours, I applied Fiebings antique paste making sure to get into all the crevices I let the antique set for about 10 minutes, the wiped off with sheep pad Applied a final Tan Kote to journal My problem: As I bend the cover through normal use, the antique flakes off onto my desk. How could I have prevented this? Through my understanding of how this process works, it seems most likely that the first application of Tan Kote was too thick (even though I was paying attention to use it sparingly) and crept down into the crevices where it didn't belong. Then, once the antique settled down there, it didn't have any leather to adhere to because of the resist nature of Tan Kote. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for your help.
  10. I found some old tools from my Great grand father. Unfortunately he died, so did my grand father and father. I heard he was a shoe maker. Can anyone identify the brand of the awl, I can't make anything from it ? Maybe it helps if I mention I live in belgium. Thx in advance Bert
  11. I've got TONS of unique, one-off leather for sale. A range of sizes and colors and finishes, great for small projects. I'm about to list some large hides in addition to the small and medium I have for sale. Right now I'm posting on eBay but would love to sell direct. Here is the eBay link- https://www.ebay.com/sch/racbec-61/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= Better photos coming soon too! There are MANY more than shown below. Email me: Rachael@heavyleathernyc.com
  12. I am just getting into antique leather restoration, etc. and I have a problem. I have a nice "motorcycle" or "western" belt from the 1940s and at some point it lost it's name, which was "FORTUNE" in what would have been yellow brass or chromed brass letters. I have been searching all over the web for alphabet spots but those currently available are not of the right design or size to reproduce the name. Ace Western Belts in Japan appears to reproduce these, but the cost is high and I am not sure the size is right. The original letters were 7/16" tall, or nearly half an inch. Communication with these folks is not easy because of the language barrier. So, does anyone have any letters I could buy that I could use to finish this belt? The photo of the actual belt shows other losses which I have fixed, but so far I cannot get those letters! I am also looking at restoration of this type to be an ongoing effort, so I am also looking for a source of vintage spots and jewels for future projects. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!!!
  13. Hi there, I have just finished a new leather case for my phone. I'm curious about an issue that I encounter on all my projects: I like to carve flowers and try to make a few deep pear shader marks. When I apply some antique (Fiebing Antique Finish or Tandy Hi-Lite, used as an antique), it never stays into the petals (see picture attached). My dream is to achieve something closer to this: https://www.instagram.com/p/BAdbOq4R2g3/. Beautiful and subtle shades. I'm quite far from this result Here is my routine after tooling & dying, do I do something wrong? - I apply 2 coats of Tandy's super sheen or, more frequently, Fiebing's Resolene (60% Resolene / 40% water), with a little spray bottle. I rapidly swipe with a piece of coton wool, to prevent the "bubbles" of resist to make stains on the leather. Let it dry several hours between the 2 coats, and after the 2d one. - I apply some antique (Fiebing's paste or Tandy's Hi-Lite): I put a glove on and spread the product all over the leather piece with my fingers, then remove the excess with paper towel, trying to go horizontal. Let it dry and buff. - I apply another coat of resist, sometimes 2. Most of the time, the antique tends to blend :-( My guess: maybe I don't carve deep enough? Maybe my way of doing this is all wrong? I thank you in advance for your help and suggestions! Sophie
  14. I was watching a video today on YouTube by my favorite leatherworker. He was using a metal roller on leather to depress the saddle stitching into a groove. I thought it was so cool. I grabbed my tin of antique sofa rollers, some wood for a chair I'm restoring, six metal ones and 3 hard plastic ones from the 40s. I dumped them in a pickle solution on the side of my cooker, and in about 30 minutes brushed them clean and buffed them, took some old wood handles for my round wood files, used the wood files to enlarge the holes a bit and put them in. I love it when I can find stuff around here to use that I need not spend money on.
  15. I am a rookie so please bear with me. I am starting to go through my dad's old business to sell his estate. He purchased an old hardware store business 40 years ago. The hardware store itself is maybe 100 years old. In one of the storage sheds way in the back I came across what looks to be a type of sewing machine. When I asked my mom, she recalls the realtor telling her it was used on horse collars and other horse "gear". I won't be able to get better pictures until April as that is when we start cleaning out the 28x50ft shed. I had to walk on top of boxes, old machinery, etc. just to get back to this. There is other horse related gear in another storage shed so this is plausible. The unit is on a stand with the Champion shoe markings. Not shown in the picture is the unit is powered by what looks like a bicycle type peddles. My family is looking to sell this but would like to know as much history as possible before doing so. Can someone point me in the right direction? Including what to look for/identify to somehow estimate a decent selling price and to who? Let me know if you need additional pics.
  16. Hello, can somebody identify that sewing machine? It looks quite cool and heavy duty but I can't find any information about the producer. Thank you for your help. Regards
  17. This piece has a really nice finish that I'd like to duplicate. I haven't done any antiquing before but I've read some notes on here. I'm a little confused about how to get the look if I've already dyed/painted with Acrylic (Angelus)? Do I still need to resist, or does acrylic do that for me? Any guesses on the products? Fiebrings and Tan-Kote?
  18. Hello! I recently came across the work of La Geuse on DeviantArt and love her "gradient" esque finishes where the dye is darker on the edges. I used to achieve this affect on cosplay pieces before I started working with leather by applying a dark wash and wiping away, but I want to know how to get this finish using leather dye. I make armored corsets and a lot of heavy armor for SCA and would love to achieve a similar finish on my work. My confusion comes from if her finish is achieved by airbrushing on a darker color of dye on the edges (or thinning angelus paints to do this) OR if this is some form of antiquing. I am coming to leather from the cosplay world, and while my construction is pretty good I am looking to heavily improve my dyeing process. Thanks all! Pictures are not mine, all c redit to La Geuse on DeviantArt.
  19. Leebroox

    My 4th Project

    So I did this recently for my Son for his birthday. I'm new to leather. I started about 4 or 5 months ago. This is my fourth leather project and I am in need of some serious critiques. I struggle most with dyeing and coloring to get the effect or results I want. Any pointers or constructive criticism is very welcomed. Thanks and Cheers, Leland
  20. Hello! I recently came across the work of La Geuse on DeviantArt and love her "gradient" esque finishes where the dye is darker on the edges. I used to achieve this affect on cosplay pieces before I started working with leather by applying a dark wash and wiping away, but I want to know how to get this finish using leather dye. I make armored corsets and a lot of heavy armor for SCA and would love to achieve a similar finish on my work. My confusion comes from if her finish is achieved by airbrushing on a darker color of dye on the edges (or thinning angelus paints to do this) OR if this is some form of antiquing. I am coming to leather from the cosplay world, and while my construction is pretty good I am looking to heavily improve my dyeing process. Thanks all! Pictures are not mine, all credit to La Geuse on DeviantArt.
  21. Hello everyone! I've searched through the forums for an answer to my issue, but couldn't find anything so here goes! If it has been answered elsewhere, my apologies for starting a new thread. I'm new here and am constantly trying to improve my skills and tooling/painting on my weightlifting belts. My most recent endeavor is trying to figure out how to make my white paint remain white after antiquing. I tool, dye, paint (angelus acrylic), then coat with 1 or 2 coats of angelus acrylic finisher. I use black antique mostly because it goes with anything, the more natural tones don't fit in with my work. Basically, as you can guess, the black antique doesn't come off clean enough, and leaves a nasty tone on the white. I use Eco flo gel antique. See attached, an idol of mine's great work - and how white his paint comes out after finishing! Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks so much!
  22. Hello folks ! Something weird is happening.. a while ago I was making a wallet, as the newbie I am with very little experience using other products than Sheen and dyes, I decided I wanted to use antique finish, medium brown (fiebing's that comes in the little plastic jar) and so I did and after noticing that it wasn't such a good idea I tried rubbing it off with water , and somehow that worked but not quite, it brought off most of the stains but it really took some in , to the point "of no return" with water at least, and so I got frustrated, abandoned the project because it was ruined and left it for a while. A little over week ago I found it again and decided I'd dye it black and I did , it was great , the part I didn't use the paste on took the dye well but that part that did , it's sort of dye proof , water proof , everything proof , I tried dyeing it once , I left it to dry for 36 hours , I tried to buff it to add some super sheene , and the black came off several parts returning some huge spots to their natural color pretty much , and I tried dyeing it around 2 more times , same result every time , later I thought I just needed some deglazing , I read on here I could use rubbing alcohol , I don't really have access to a shop at the moment and probably won't til a week from now so is there anything I can do to replace deglazing? First I tried neatsfoot oil , it took it (from what I saw) , the dye came right off , tried rubbing alcohol 3 times , when it dried the last time , I tried wetting it (I read on here that it can help absorb dye) but still still didn't work , but it made me notice that my item is pretty much waterproof, water stays over it like nothing, does not bother to absorb What can I do ? Thank y'all in advance, good luck to anyone who's got the storm thing coming at them
  23. Does anyone have a preference over paste vs liquid antique stain? Why?
  24. Hi! First of all - sorry for my english, i know it's bad So, today i saw a nice carved leather wallets, with freaking amazing dying technique. Now i can't sleep because i need to know how to get these colours. I think its not spirit dyes, seems like water based or acrylic used with some snain ot acrylic gel (i dont know), but, its so vintage, and lean, yes, its looks old, but clean. Do you have any ideas, or maybe you know this technique? Maybe you can give some advise of dye brand?..God, that's make me mad...
  25. Hi I'm trying to use antique gel but it doesn't seem to work. I've got a test piece I'm using. I stamped the leather with a few stamps, then I dyed with a water based dye and allowed to dry overnight. Now I follow the instructions on the eco-flo antique gel: Apply liberally, rub in, wipe off with a soft cloth. (I didn't resist because I didn't mind if colour overall colour changed) I know the gel is supposed to stay in the impressions, but when I wipe everything comes off. Tried again, applied, waited 1 minute, wiped off, and again it all wipes off. It's not a heavy tool impression, because it's a thin piece of leather and I didn't want to go through. Any thoughts?
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