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  1. I'm working on this Green Man face for a bag. I've got a handle on the floral tooling (oak leaves), but I'm not sure how to best do the face, especially the nose (and by extension, the eyes). I'm not sure what tools I should use, or what sequence of techniques, to get it right. Any of you figure modeling experts got some advice?
  2. So I made my first full box (I've made small ones with wooden lids before). I was originally hoping to have it so the top and bottom hinged together, but I would have needed to use thicker leather for it to work well (or glue another layer inside), and more importantly, take into account that all that surface tooling on the lid would significantly expand it. Turns out it made it the perfect size to slide over the bottom, so it's not a complete loss. Next time I'm doing all the lid decorations, *then* cutting the sides and bottom. Also made the sides out of one long strap, and it would have been easier on me if I had just cut each side separately and done a tiny bit more stitching. If I had more time, I would have lined the interior, but as it was I ended up waxing it the day it was given out. I included a pic of the sides before I stitched them, I'm sure you'll recognize some standard stamps. ;)
  3. Second video I've done trying to show stamping/tooling. Tried to add music, subtitles, etc. Still getting the angles down so folks can see what is going on under the tools... open to comments and suggestions if you are kind enough to take 48 seconds on the first and 5 minutes (on the second) out of your day to entertain yourself with my efforts! Thanks much. YinTx First video: second video:
  4. Hello everyone, I hope that you are all well and staying safe during this pandemic. I wasn't able to find a solid answer to a question I've been trying to research. Where did the Sheridan style of leather tooling come from? The floral design is very similar to the "okir" designs from Southern Asia. If you know awesome! If not perhaps you know of some literature that covers it? I've tried searching the internet but much of it discusses technique but not history. Thanks! Teo
  5. Hello all, So I was wondering if anybody has worked with Artisan's Choice veg tan leather, sold by Leather Guys out of Minnesota. If so, does it tool well? What other leather is it compatible too, etc? I've developed a fondness for Wickett & Craig veg tan, I love the way it tools, even more so than Herman Oaks, and is my usual go to. But as you probably know, it's not the cheapest and usually takes close to a week to get to me when shipped. I've only ordered exotic leather from leather guys and it's been high quality not to mention I live in Minnesota so it only takes usually 2 days to arrive. Any feedback would be much appreciated, thank you!
  6. Simple question, is there much or a difference in quality ? what is the best leather and why ?
  7. I found this image on Pinterest and the link led me to the Leatherworker forum. I expect that the stamping and carving belongs to someone here on the forum but I don't know very many crafts people here who I could maybe match up their work styles to this one. Any ideas on who did this very good looking work, I wanted to pick their brain with a few questions .....
  8. Like new Barry King 48oz mallet! There are a few scuffs on the brass nut, otherwise very little use to the nylon head. Carefully-crafted mallet is a true work of art. Durable nylon head stands up to heavy-duty use. Contoured handle offers extra cushioning and is comfortable in the hand.
  9. Does anyone have any tips for getting really tight/ uniform flower centers using a very small seeder? I've had OK luck with it but I see some other craftsman absolutely killing it on this. Is this an actual one hit style of stamp or is it a series of multiple hits on a "one seed" style seeder. How do you get the layout so uniform especially in such a small space as a flower center? Start in the center and work your way out or vice versa? Any tips or tricks are much appreciated.
  10. Finally finished this up today. Took half a year of Sundays it seems, but ready. 1" wide strap, Hermann Oak leather, Fil Au Chinois Thread, solid steel hardware. Learned a thing from @RockyAussie's watch strap tutorial, and tried to apply it here. Thanks for that! Plenty of little mistakes, and things I'd do differently (like only use that style of buckle with very thin flexible leather), but I think it will be serviceable! From what I understand, LuLu is a girly girl boxer with white fur, so I think she'll like this style. YinTx
  11. Hey folks, I've got a project in mind and I was wondering if anyone had any experience with it. I am wanting to make a tooled leather lap board. I'd like to be able to use it for writing and working, and obviously a tooled leather piece isn't the best for that purpose. So what I was thinking was to pour a leveling hardening epoxy over the top of the finished leather piece to make it smooth and suitable for working on. Would this be possible? Any tips for making it work or any other ideas for this type of project?
  12. What's it been? A few weeks, a month, or even longer since I posted my last cane with a leather handle? Anyway, at that time YinTx mentioned commissioning one for his dad and after talking back and forth we decided I would do the wood and he would do the leather. So the collaboration began. Things have been moving slowly along since then. YinTx sent me a goody bag full of veg tan of different weights and brands along with a couple of tooled pieces to practice with and we decided on a shank and a handle style for the cane. This wasn't all the choices but the picture does show the one he chose. The left hand stick is a nice rustic black walnut sucker with a very small and even taper at the top and some nice knots in the bottom for a bit of character. We're still working on the final wood choices for the handle but it will be a Fritz style similar in shape to this one. Right now the hold up is on my end. I have three handles I'm currently finishing but with the weather getting colder it's taking forever to build up a good shine. YinTx can't do a whole lot on his end until that part is done so he knows how big his tooling area is. We're almost literally sitting around watching paint dry. While I've been waiting on that I've started practicing wet forming with the pieces of veg tan YinTx sent me, mostly trying to figure out what works for this application and what doesn't. At this point it's mostly what doesn't work. Here's my first completed wet formed handle. The cane is a one piece cane made from a dead oak branch. I decided this was a good practice piece because of the nearly round handle. Honestly I think it could have been done without wet forming. The leather is Tandy 9 oz. veg tan. I chose the thicker leather because the branch making the grip was a little small so it needed something thick. I skived the front and back edges down to get rid of the pig in a blanket effect and stitched the leather on wet with 1.4 mm Tiger thread. After I thought I had things trimmed to fit I tried pressing a decorative line about 1/8" from the front and back edges and next to the stitch line. The more I look at my stitching the less I like it. I have to get over the idea of using the stitching chisel I have as anything more than a spacing device for my stitch holes. A round awl is much better for this kind of work. Stitching the leather while wet was a mistake too. It stretched the already too-big holes and even tore one a bit. I also had to re-work the stitches closest to the shank and messed that up. Lesson learned. That pretty much brings things up to date for now. More later.
  13. Hello fellow Leather Crafters! I need some help finding a border tool with the exact design. If not exact then extremely similar... See attached photo. I have been commissioned to reproduce three leather panels to an old chair bought in Costa Rica. As you can see from the photos the leather has certainly seen its days. I could maybe get a way with a diamond pattern. Before I bring up options to my customer, I thought I'd share with you all and see if there may be some leads in hunting down that design. (I could carve the original design myself but that'll take way too long and not be cost effective to my customer.) Thank you for your help! W/ gratitude, Brett C.
  14. Does anyone have a good template or any pointers for making a tooled pistol pouch? Something with a zipper, lined with something soft and a braided edge? I have tooled before and done some basic hand sewing but want to try to step it up. I have never attempted a braided edge but I have always wanted to try it. I really like the look of it.
  15. Hey guys, I am in need of some advice, I have been working on a 22 x 22 chessboard for a buddy of mine. I am using Chahin Weaver veg. tan 5-6 oz. leather. I went ahead and used clear packing tape on the back and now I have cut all my lines and cut a 1 1/2 rose border. but now all of the edges and borders are beginning to warp or curl up. Honestly, its beginning to look like a giant valet tray lol. I still have a lot of stamping to go, should I just continue with tooling or should I remove tape and glue it to cardboard? I would appreciate the help? What would you guys do in my situation? Frank
  16. This was my very first knife sheath. I bartered a custom holster for a custom knife a few years back. It has just been sitting in my desk in a cardboard sheath (cringe). I know. So...it was well overdue. I started out with simple expectations to "just make something leather to hold it," but that very quickly went out the door. It was much more involved than I had expected. It took considerable thought and planning. I had to layer up the leather to make a shelf on which the handle could sit, otherwise it would push the loop back when inserted. I had to consider so many other aspects. For example, I made the retention strap replaceable with a Chicago screw, so that, in the event that I cut the strap, or it became worn over time, it could be replaced. I had to carve out a dimple in an inside layer where the Chicago screw head could rest, allowing the layers to lie flush. On and on. I suppose these, along with the other things I had to figure out for myself are old hat for some of you, but it was probably faster than spending hours researching like I did before I made my first holster. Anyway, as always, I am all ears for constructive criticism. Oh yeah, the bear was from a practice scrap I did for a holster request that fell through. He sat on my workbench for months before I found a use for the poor fella. Never tooled any animals before. That was a whole other experience. Let me know what you think, and/or where I could improve on the next one. Thanks, ladies and gentlemen.
  17. Myself and a friend were booked for the making realistic figure carving pieces. We were to make a lifelike portrait of sitting bull. He is horribly ill and cannot make it. If you are going to the southwest leatherworkers show and was interested in an 8 hour class tomorrow please call the Brian at leathercrafters and saddlers journal. 715-362-5393
  18. Hi y'all ~ I just found this site last week; it's amazing! I finally found someone who shares my addiction (not that any of you are addicted to leatherwork.) This headdress is on the top of double-stacked luggage for an Indian Motorcycle. The MBs are too large to post any photo of it here. I was going to post it in the gallery but didn't understand why there were different ones; therefore, I didn't know where to put it. Any suggestions on improving the headdress would be greatly appreciated as well as explaining the gallery photo process. Thanks so much. Many blessings ~ WVMoonshine
  19. Hi i am working on making leather fire helmet shields and had a few questions. Made my first one the other day but having a hard time with the beveling with it leaving alot of uneven marks. Any suggestions on how much to wet down the leather or how to start so that its more even? not sure if im wetting the leather to much or possible not cutting my lines deep enough before i bevel? Any suggestions/ tips would be great thanks!
  20. Hey guys, me and my husband got bit and have been hooked on leather crafting. It started as a hobby a few weeks ago but we both found a passion in it. A few of his buddies from work want some stuff for Christmas so we want to make it look more 'professional' and last better. We picked up a basic tool set and some stamps. But we are pretty clueless when it comes to how to finish our leather. We have a Tandy's about two hours away we are going to next weekend to pick stuff up, but I wanted to get some recommendations on products from Tandy's you guys like. I've seen a lot about the Clear-Lac/Neat-Lac, saddle lac, tote lac, ect. We know we want to do a lot of antique finish but according to Tandy's website you dye, use a pro resist, antique finish, then neat lac. But won't a resist keep the antique from absorbing? Also, what is the proper process? So far we follow this- cut, groove, bevel edges, sand, burnish, tool/carve, oil (let soak overnight), then sew together. Is there a better method and how to do we finish? I posted my first project I did, a sheath for my throwing knives. I did the art then colored it with regular acrylic paint from Hobby Lobby (which I'm sure you probably shouldn't use). We are looking at getting the Eco flo glue, fiebing dyes, fiebing all in one antique finish, fiebing pro resist, eco flo neat-lac, and neats foot oil. Is there anything else we should get? I'm sorry for all the questions. Just want to make sure we are on the right path
  21. Hi all First time posting something that isn't a big batch. This is a tooled case made as a present for a friend- I had originally sized it so it to be used as a fancy pencil case but due to some poor planning there are some gaps at the sides and i'm not sure how well it would work for that. No time left to alter but I guess it could be used for glasses or tools or as a clutch or anything really- not for me to decide but i'm sure something will fit in it... This was built over a couple of weeks worth of lunch breaks at work so didn't have the time I would've liked, but maybe i'll reuse the patterns when I'm freed up again. Technical specs- 2.5ishmm veg tan lined with thin upholstery stuff, which is also used for the side panels. Hand stitched with waxed linen. First time using bar grounders which was fun, haven't learnt all the do's and don't's with them yet but i expect it will become the go to backgrounding method from now on. I hope you like it, and any questions or critiques fire away. Thanks! Alex
  22. I did buy the cheap 20 piece tool set from China a couple of years ago but never used them, now looking to try tooling First tools i would like to buy is a set of bevelers maybe 3 and a set of background maybe 3 just to get started probably starting with Sheridan style designs, I understand the chinese stamps are far from ideal but at least something to start with and money is tight at present Suggestions on the beveler set (plain or textured and background set ) would be welcomed and buying from Tandy My problem with Tandy is their images give little impression of size of each stamp Thanks in advance
  23. Tandy keeps an on-line digital resource of thousands of their old template/patterns, tips sheets, ideas from some of their tutors eg George Hurst. They even have digital copies of some of the Al Stohlman books and other books. Prices ranged from Free and upwards, many in the 99c and $1.99 brackets Recently I was keeping a load of these patterns and tip sheets in my 'basket'. Cost was to be about $40. I was waiting on a decent $ to £ rate before buying. Last night I went to buy them and found the system had deleted the 'basket' contents. I put the patterns I wanted back in, but the Library pages were slow in loading, up to 1 minute to change a page! But I discovered as I went along the hours [literally, hours] to go thru the Library and put the ones I wanted, plus more, was well worth it. All the patterns et ectrea are FREE, ~ as of the time I write this. (15.25 BST August 10 '19) I've no idea if this a temporary offer or what. Check it out for yourself: https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/ But remember the website is running very slow right now, but after you buy the download of the pattern is as fast as your own computer allows
  24. Hello all! Here is a leather tote bag I finished a while ago. The handles are an 8 strand round braid and the first thing I've braided. The leather is 8oz veg-tan with soft pigskin lining on the inside. The sheridan pattern is my own work. This is also my first time using a bar grounder in my carving. Let me know what you think! Critique welcome. -Ryan
  25. Hi, i am new to the craft of leather and would appreciate guidance to determine what tools I should get, as well as the manufacturer. (Tandy, CraftPro, Robert Beard, Barry King?) I live in south Florida and considered purchasing swivel knife and basic tools from Tandy, but upon reading posts, I would prefer to invest a bit more money now and save in the end I am making a leather bible cover with the image found here https://cdn.tandyleather.com/media/downloads/2019-02-28-Floral-Messenger-Bag.pdf?fbclid=IwAR1LJNUlkIsgbVp1kPz8qtV-J0GwqkkvPE_KHI4guw_JFmcC_N3LBZaoOSM I would value your expertise in speaking to the specific size tool and manufacturer(s). Possibly it is important to get a higher end swivel knife and basic tools from Tandy? I just don’t know I prefer to write with thin barrel pens, and thus possibly a smaller diameter swivel is what I should get? Not sure why so many diameters are offered on Barry King’s site, nor do I know what size blade to get. I will utilize open table at Tandy and thus don’t need to buy ALL the tools listed for that design Thus I really need some assistance. Specific swivel knife, starter tools/beginner tools to get, manufacturer for each and the size (if options are given) Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience with me. Abby
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