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  1. THE LEATHER TATTOO MACHINE BY 21GRAMS LEATHER GOODS Introducing a groundbreaking innovation in leather crafting: 21Grams Leather Tattoo Machine, meticulously designed with custom cartridges crafted over years of refinement to deliver the perfect leather hit. Say goodbye to the strain of the swivel knife and hello to precision and ease. With optimal pressure and speed control, this machine empowers artisans to achieve unparalleled results, evoking the sensation of hand-drawing on leather. The astounding feedback from out customers speaks volumes about its effectiveness. **Pro Kit - $300** This kit includes a standard-size machine, charger, thin liner, thick liner, round shader, small smooth shader, medium smooth shader, and large smooth shader. **Cartridges/Tips - $25 each or $150 for a 6-pack set** Get consistent performance with our premium cartridges and tips. http://21gramsleathergoods.com/product/leather-tattoo-machine-kit/
  2. Guys & gals I picked this manual skiver up the other day. Are they any good? Looks like a nice tool, now I need to play with it & ruin some leather & cuss. Cause I'm sure there is going to be a learning curve with it. If this test sample is anything like it performs, I'm impressed.
  3. Hello all, I have a selection of vintage and new tools for sale, Unfortunately due to the size restrictions I cant post individual pictures of the tools. However if you want to see more just ask and I can send pictures! So lets begin, from left to right 1) Black walnut Strop that is double sided and comes with three veg tan strips with a backing adhesive to easily attach and remove, 2) Kobito knife with two blades from Aescalp and one right handed D2 blade which fits most clicker knifes such as the Lindispensable 3) Yorkshine no.2 edge creaser 4) Curved vintage bone folder 5) Vintage Manual hand held Hot foil stamp comes with out letters 6) Sanding block trapezium shaped 7) Vintage Michiels Bruxelles Creasing edge in need of wooden handle made in Belgium quite rare 8) Solingen Furriers Knife with out blades 9) Japanese Leather knife 32mm made by Artisan Oganaru (can be found on instagram) 10) John Adams no.14 pricking Iron, teeth at the ends are filed down due to being broken. 11) Leather edge rougher with wooden handle 12) Japanese leather knife double bevel 40mm made by artisan Oganaru (can be found on instagram) 13) Vintage shoe makers knife Vergez Blanchard right handed 33cm total length 14) Vintage gilding stamp with crucifix (from 1908) the scissors, clamp tool and long soft steel blade are just freebies to go with. I am selling the whole lot for 200 euros with shipping included worldwide. I can take payments by paypal. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.
  4. Guys & gals does this leather knife has a special name &/or model? I really think this style of leather knife would be beneficial to me & would like to acquire 1. Or is this like a 1 off custom leather knife that's going to cost me a weeks worth of wages. Lol Any & all help will be appreciated. Thanks.
  5. Hello everyone! ^^ I recently delved into the world of leather crafting (since July) and have been experimenting with snaps. I purchased a hand press, but little did I know the challenges that awaited me. Despite acquiring the correct die, snaps, and presumably the right press (haha), I am at my wits' end trying to affix snaps to my belts. Each attempt either ends in a ruined snap or misalignment on the leather. To add to the woes, a die has now become lodged in the silver plates after an attempt to set a snap on the leather. It's quite bizarre. Would anyone have suggestions on how I could resolve this issue? Thank you! And some exemple of my First two project :
  6. I'm revamping some original McLellan saddles for reinactment and the rivets are a bitch to get my anvil under to get them in the original holes. I'm making due, but wondering if there is a hand tool that would set the burr and squeeze it down, and possibly round it? It's a royal pain trying to manipulate the saddle and hold it in the correct position to barely get the tip of the anvil under the head. (I'm using round and flat head brass rivets with burrs, if that makes any difference.) As we will most likely be making some modern versions in the future, I would like to have a tool to make this process quicker and easier. I've looked for tools online, but all I'm finding are the typical hand setters. Thanks in advance!
  7. - Leather Machine Co. Cobra Class 4 w/stand Asking $2,750 - Master tool self centering belt punch w/ dies Asking 1400 with dies - Master tool little wonder with staple dies Asking $300 with dies $4,000 FOR ALL THREE MACHINES (save $450) Located at Goliger leather in Ventura Ca
  8. I haven't finished anything to show off lately so I thought I'd brag on a few new tools I got from Bruce Johnson Leather Tools. These were always at the lower priority end of my tool buying obsession until I discovered on Facebook that Bruce Johnson is now a dealer for CS Osborne. Concho cutters that actually cut, and dividers I can set and lock. Love 'em! If you need something, and need it quick, check out Bruce's operation at http://www.BruceJohnsonLeather.com
  9. My wife and I have a leather bag making business (well, I should say "had"). We ran our handmade leather and waxed canvas bag business for 6 years and we were super successful and had a wonderful time doing it. It got too big for us to continue at the rate that we were and also keep our full time careers. We either had to go all in and quit our careers with health insurance, job security and 401k's or become full time bag makers. I know we made the right choice, at 50 years old, to continue with our careers. If we had done this in our 20's or 30's we would have risked it all and continued to pour our hearts and souls into our business. So, we are selling ALL our tools, materials, equipment and stuff. We would love to see it all go to other makers and creators. leatherandcanvasbusinessforsale.com
  10. Thought I'd put up a couple of my round knives here in the "Show Off" category. I've been using them as a Maker for over 30-years, and became obsessed with making them myself a few years ago. I made my first one about 18-months ago with influence from everybody from CS Osborne to Danny Marlin, and everybody in-between. I chose to use AEB-L stainless steel for my blades as it was developed for razor blades, and it's got years of successful history. It's been around a LONG time. All of my blades are professionally heat treated by Buck Knives/Bos Heat Treating out in Post Falls, Idaho. The fasteners on these two are stainless steel Loveless bolts designed by the late knifemaker Bob Loveless. Handle material is DymaLux which I've found to be outstanding to work with, and provides a solid weight and density. It finishes nicely, too. Thanks for looking!
  11. Hey All! I'm stoked...after 20 years of this leatherworking thing, I finally sprung for some shiny new Barry King checkered bevelers! I can't wait to put them to use on some floral carvings. I ordered them Tuesday; wasn't expecting them for a week or so, but Fedex Claus just dropped em off! Just wanted to share... Mike
  12. Hi all, I recently picked up a box of miscellaneous leather tools and there were these four tools in it that I have never seen before and have no idea what they are used for. I was hoping you all could help me identify what their uses are. From left to right in the lineup: 1. Double-sided overstitch wheel (I know it's an overstitch wheel, but double-sided? How would I use that?) 2. Some sort of French Beveler or edge beveler, possibly for shoe making? 3. Some sort of creaser or little hammer thing? The previous owner sharpened the axe end because he wasn't sure what else to do with it. 4. An awl of some sort, I can't tell if the tip has been broken off or what the deal is. Very thick, blunt end, maybe was forked but broke off? Maybe for saddle making? Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
  13. Hi there! I'm new and in the process of getting my saddle fitting certification. I'm mostly interested in tools and saddle flocking techniques, but minor repairs too. I'm currently having trouble finding curved flocking irons and a masher or smasher if anyone has any links I would appreciate it. I ordered one from Dixon, but apparently they stopped producing the metal mashers. I've tried the Cumbria School for curved irons but I have not heard back.
  14. Hello, I am still relatively new to leatherwork as a hobby and I have bought all of the basic tools I need and made a few tools as well. I would love to have a set of good oblong punches but they are quite pricey! So, in your experience, if you could only have one size of oblong punch to do as much different punching as possible what width and length would it be? I have already considered making sure it is short because I can always step it forward to lengthen the punched area. Also, I have been looking at C.S. Osborne, but does anyone have any other good brand recommendations?
  15. Just a heads up I have a few Large Lots of hardware for sale in a few different Bay auctions. Below are the links: Solid Brass rivets ( 17 pounds worth!! ) - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807307824 Bag Hardware - Slides, clips, squares and spikes: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807478499 Stainless Steel belt / strap loops - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807382550 Large Belt Buckles for straps / belts. Lot of 50 ! - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807550261 Solid Brass Belt buckles lot of 50 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807560899 Line 20 snaps and parts extremely large lot - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807643227 Line 24 Snaps and parts Massive collection - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807656974 Split rings of various sizes mostly stainless steel: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807673280 Various collection of chains for use on bags, wallets etc - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807694264 Stainless steel links, possible use in keychains 35 total - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807704433 Hermes Collectors item Book - La Beaute en Voyage Rare item out of print - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807718152 Shiny Nickel Padlocks for various uses - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807497282 Stainless Steel Pony Chain Swivels Lot of 12 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255807358982 CS Osborne Draw Gauge plus Extra blade - https://www.ebay.com/itm/255803922372 Thanks!
  16. Here are a few custom designs that I made to cut the tip/ends of leather belt straps.
  17. Leather Belt Press/Punch by Bian Variani https://variani.com https://www.instagram.com/varianibian
  18. This is one of my 1st belt press/punch that I made for leather belt straps. This is the Hole-Punch for the machine above!
  19. As a Leather Artisan I have struggled with Edge-painting leather belt straps, so I engineered my own edge painting tools which work great and currently solved all my problems. Does anyone else have an alternative suggestions? I always love to hear and to learn from others and new techniques.
  20. Custom made belt-press, tip cutter and heat press that I made. The biggest problem that I solved in this build is that I created custom alignment guides so I know where to exactly position the belt during the process. More pictures of my work is available at: https://www.instagram.com/varianibian/
  21. Recently I bought a new diamond stitching awl off of Amazon because I wanted something that could do smaller holes than what my current awl provides. The awl arrived, and the blade promptly broke off at the shank after poking about 5 holes. I contacted the seller, and while they refunded the purchase price, they also told me "We immediately reported the situation to our professional craftsman, who advised our customers not to directly use the awl to punch holes. Since the tip of the awl is relatively sharp, it can only be used to assist in poking holes. After the hole is made, use an awl to reshape the hole." Does any of that make sense to anybody? Are they saying that I should be using something else to poke the hole and their awl is only meant to be used to shape an existing hole? That seems like a fairly cumbersome way to do stitching, but maybe that's what needed for smaller fine-detail stitching? Am I missing something? Meanwhile I went back to my old awl, which is still holding up fine. I may not have thousands of projects under my belt with that awl, but I have poked a few hundred holes with it. /dwight
  22. Bump jigs are used in leather craft however the term "bump jig" is readily used in wood working and machinery bumping the jig against the wood/metal but called a "positioning square" to make it simple to square or find the true angle of an object to cut, position, or shape. In terms of the word, its relatively new word in leathercraft but other tools in the wood working/machinery trade have been around for a long time and have been used in leatherwork. Mascon Leather & Zeebeeleather has introduced the relatively new term to the industry combining tools of other mechanical trades to the leather industry combining old tools to the leatherwork help tools as helpful guides.There is no term or definition as so called a "bump Jig" as a defined term in any dictionary or thesaurus at this time. This is not a new concept, but the combination of old with the new is great. Because it takes the guessing game to a whole new level of precision if used correctly as well as understanding your measuring tools and jigs.
  23. Has anyone bought from a company called Likolly? I get Facebook ads for their products all the time. Some of their tools look nice but I can't find any information about them and I don't want to get scammed.
  24. I recently acquired a Bob Douglas awl haft and blade, and I must say - the awl haft is brilliant. I was dreading installing the blade in the haft on account of not having a vise to hold the blade between two pennies nor having experience with working with epoxy to stick the blade in. To install the blade into the Bob Douglas haft, you simply unscrew the ferrule nut, insert the blade, then tighten the nut. It self-centers, and it's brilliantly simple to swap between blades. Truly a work of functional art.
  25. Last night I started converting a $10.49 big box ball pein hammer into a cobblers hammer. The first step was to strip all the Varnish and Japanning off the handle and head. The handle wasn't to bat but the varnish on the head was probably 1/64" to 1/32" thick, I had to break out the wire wheels to get it off. The face was almost dead flat to start with, so it only took a few passes with a file and coarse sanding disks to give the face a slight dome, and to round over the edge. With sandpaper and scotch-brite pads up to 600 grit, I refined the shape of the face, and removed any tooling marks from earlier steps. To finish off the face, I progressed through black, read and then white rouge on a stitched cotton buffing wheel. Its not perfect, but I'm pretty happy with it so far. Tonight I'm going to see if the head will take a decent cold blue, and I will probably finish of the handle with boiled linseed oil and wax.
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