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Hello all, I have a selection of vintage and new tools for sale, Unfortunately due to the size restrictions I cant post individual pictures of the tools. However if you want to see more just ask and I can send pictures! So lets begin, from left to right 1) Black walnut Strop that is double sided and comes with three veg tan strips with a backing adhesive to easily attach and remove, 2) Kobito knife with two blades from Aescalp and one right handed D2 blade which fits most clicker knifes such as the Lindispensable 3) Yorkshine no.2 edge creaser 4) Curved vintage bone folder 5) Vintage Manual hand held Hot foil stamp comes with out letters 6) Sanding block trapezium shaped 7) Vintage Michiels Bruxelles Creasing edge in need of wooden handle made in Belgium quite rare 8) Solingen Furriers Knife with out blades 9) Japanese Leather knife 32mm made by Artisan Oganaru (can be found on instagram) 10) John Adams no.14 pricking Iron, teeth at the ends are filed down due to being broken. 11) Leather edge rougher with wooden handle 12) Japanese leather knife double bevel 40mm made by artisan Oganaru (can be found on instagram) 13) Vintage shoe makers knife Vergez Blanchard right handed 33cm total length 14) Vintage gilding stamp with crucifix (from 1908) the scissors, clamp tool and long soft steel blade are just freebies to go with. I am selling the whole lot for 200 euros with shipping included worldwide. I can take payments by paypal. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.

I'll do a proper post when I've made the sheath but I'm calling this a tactical letter opener because SHIV has such negative connotations. Its 250mm long, 50mm wide and machined out of a 5mm thick carbon fibre plate. The edge bevel is 15 degrees (a 150 degree chamfer bit) and I left 0.7mm of material at the 'edge' but some hand sanding could put a cuttin edge on it. Being essentially plastic, it wouldn't hold any edge but its the sort of thing you'd only need to be sharp ONCE. Or, like me, just leave it on the hall table for opening letters. The hole pattern is my maker's mark: AWR in morse code.

As suggested by @Tugadude, here's a bit more information about the knife leather handle project. I didn't want to put more pictures in the last post since it was technically a "show off" post, so this is more of a technical description including the few jigs I made in order to get it to work. 1) A lot of small patches, each 1" x 1.5" were cut out from some veg tan leather and some black leather that I had. 2) the patches were soaked in water for about an hour or so, then left in a plastic bag in the refrigerator overnight (casing) 3) A model of the tang of the knife was made. The tang on this knife was wedge shaped, so I made a similar one in steel. 4) A compression plate was made. This is a small square piece of steel with an elongated hole in it. It will slide over the model of the tang. 5) a small piece of pipe was cut to a length of approx- 1.5". 6) two anti-surface-marring discs were made. I used some old gasket material, but the important thing is to have something to protect the leather from the jaws of the vise. One of those discs have an elongated hole. 7) Holes were cut in the leather patches, to make elongated holes. length of hole depends on where on the tang the patch will end up. 8) the patches are stacked on the model tang. We tried to alternate the black and veg tan patches. The veg tan patches were put flesh side to one another, and then two sets of those were stacked (4 veg tan total) 9) The entire tang is now covered in leather patches. 10) The anti-surface-marring disc is put on the model tang and it is backed up of the compression plate. 11) The anti-surface-marring disc is put in the open vise, the stack is then inserted, the pipe is placed over the end of the tang and the vise is tightened. 12) We compressed to approximately 75% of the original length. And we left the stack in the vise overnight. 13) The stack was removed from the vise. Due to the wedge shape it was easy to gently hammer out the model tang. Now there is a basic leather handle. 14) leave the handle to dry at least a day, there is a lot of moisture in it still. Once dry start basic shaping with a knife or a chisel or whatever tool you like. 15) Our knife blades are not intended for this type of handle, so I had to cut of the end and make a small slit with an angle grinder. In this slit I silver soldered a 3mm (1/8") threaded rod. 16) the pommel is made out of two pieces of brass, each approximately 5/32" thick. I drilled a 3 mm (1/8") hole in one of them and a 10 mm (3/8") in the other. 17) those two pieces are silver soldered together. 18) the retaining nut is turned on the lathe, or you can do it with a file and a drilling machine as well. It is a piece of brass of slightly smaller diameter than the large hole in the pommel. A hole is drilled and the correct thread is tapped (the same thread as the small threaded rod that is silver soldered to the end of the tang). A slit is sawn using a hacksaw. 19) Shaping of the pommel is done using a file. When the leather is dry, you can mount it all on on the knife blade and finish the shaping. 20) We glued the pommel and the last piece of leather with a bit of contact glue to prevent it from turning in case the leather dries out even more in another climate. Finally the pommel and the retaining nut are filed/sanded on the bottom, so that the retaining nut is flush with the threaded rod and the pommel itself.

I have a few bundles of DVDs for sale through a couple of eBay auctions (Ending 11/15/22. in the evening): - 6 DVDs on leather carving, Sheridan style and more: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255810778928 - 9 DVDs on how to make various knife sheaths : https://www.ebay.com/itm/255810991680 - 5 DVDs on bag making, carving and construction: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255812182660 - 6 DVDs on How to make Holsters including the John Bianchi set: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255812221084 - Full DVD set of Leather Holster Making by the American Gunsmithing Institute taught by the talented Chris Andre: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255812206122 - 5 DVDs on leather lacing, turks head, etc..: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255812236482 - 6 DVDs on Dyeing, Assembly, Tool care: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255810974935

I have for sale a selection of some vintage leather working tools and some vintage ones, I am shipping from Belgium and can do a discounted amount if multiple pieces are purchased Or cover half the shipping. I’m mainly looking to just make some space in the workshop. Starting from top to bottin I have the following; -Tina 211 knife with brass knife that is no longer produced, comes with the old Tina knife box - 25€ -Vintage shoe makers knife from a Swedish maker, needs resharpening. 10€ -Vergez Blanchard no.2 round paring knife 28€ -vintage Thomas Adams no.14 pricking iron, has first and last tooth chipped 25€ -Vergez Blanchard no.2 oblique paring knife 28€ -Vintage Blanchard straight shoe makers knife long model 18€ -mundus clicker knife missing awl at back 10€ -vintage Blanchard double Creasing iron no.5 30€ -Blanchard trim hammer with lightly polished face 25€ on top is a left handed sewing palm/guard (free for who ever wants with their purchase) more pictures can be sent on request

Brand new Fabric Cutter 12" with straight blade! for all type of fabrics (Cloth, Leather, Vinyl, and Paper) Made in USA This portable (swatch) cutter is the most affordable and fast working (swatch) fabric cutter on the market! Cuts leather, vinyl, cloth and paper. Features: * Over all size 30" x 20" * Cuts up to 12" * Cuts multiple layers of cloth stacked up 3/4" high. * Portable only weighs 40lbs * Straight blade! I bought a few machines for my workshop, and this swatch cutter has never been used, it's just sitting here, now it's time to let it go. New price=$500 Selling it for $375 Goldstar Swatch Cutter.jfif Goldstar 2.jfif

For the past year, I've been playing around with Sheridan style carving. Indeed, this style of carving is rather ambitious but I'm getting more familiar with it and creating some pretty nice pieces. That being said, I feel as if my swivel knife is holding me back from progressing further with my works. I'm currently using an old Tandy craftool knife and looking for an upgrade. I've been looking online for a good, reasonably priced blade and I'm currently considering the Barry King knife and the higher-priced Leather Wranglers SK-B brass swivel knife. I wanted to ask if the SK-B brass's 135$ price tag is justified or should I go with the budget friendly Barry King knife?

I hate going though my hobby knife blades and or using my Cricut Maker to cut my projects. So I made my own pattern knife. So I decided to make my own knife. Those flimsy hobby knife blades are a thing of the past. I cut the knife from high strength steel, heat treated it and apply scales made of 9oz. leather. This cuts like a dream, much more comfortable to hold and has a single bevel for a nice clean cut.

Not a leather piece per se... but still, leather-related Lately, in addition to leather work, I've been interested in metal - knife making and such. I have been wanting to buy myself a good round head knife, but was put off by prices - they go for anything from $40-$100. So, I decided to take a stab at it myself. Designed a template in Photoshop, ordered 1084 knife metal, and voila! I was rather proud of my first attempt. Still, I can do better next time. This was a learning experience.

Just a few knives. Various shapes of Japanese knives. A few "Aogami" super blue steel Japanese knives made by Mr. Okada in Japan, an RML "Shirogami" white steel and a Palosanto D-2 steel knife. L'indispensible with Chartermade D-2 blade, a couple of Doldoki D-2 skiving knives, some Erick Anton Berg clicker knives from Sweden, a couple of unmarked head knives and a few other miscellaneous knives.

Hi all Something a bit different to the Western stuff I normally post here, and quite photo intensive i'm afraid... This is a batch of late medieval knives and sheaths, which as a very general outline date between 1300-1500 depending on the piece. The sheaths for these are all 2mm veg tan, with a back central seam and tooling inspired by originals. The main source of reference was 'knives and scabbards', which catalogues pieces found in the Thames. The two larger knives have double layered scabbards, which is a necessity as the hunting set is multi pocketed with effectively three sheaths bundled together, and the larger messer has an integrated belt. None of them have belt loops in the modern sense, but are instead suspended by hanging thongs, which are laced through slits in the back and seems to be the universal carrying method for this kind of knife. I had to go against all of my instincts with the tooling on these in an attempt for authenticity, so nothing is measured or plotted out in the way I would do a modern belt, and likewise the dyeing is much more straightforward, without the antiquing effects that would be used now. I have focused mainly on the sheaths here as this is a leatherwork forum afterall, but for anyone interested in the knives themselves they are all hand forged from 1080 or 1075 carbon steel, with either brass or steel bolsters and handles made from various native woods, which include yew, laburnum, walnut and apple. I hope you like them! Alex

Leather Wranglers all purpose trim knife. Gently used. Mosaic pin. $200.00 OBO. Feel free to ask any questions. Thank you

Ueno Naoki Right-bevel cutting knife Condition: New Price: 95USD Imgur link: https://imgur.com/gallery/YYIXXSl Instagram Link: https://www.instagram.com/p/B_e38DXgt-G/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link This is an extremely versatile leather knife, primarily used for cutting and skiving leather. The blade of the profile is a gentle curve. The handle is made from Desert Ironwood and the blade is made from D2 steel, tempered through cryogenic hardening. Ueno Naoki is a Japanese Blacksmith and woodworker, whose work is recognized by renowned leathercrafters like Tsuyoshi Yamashita(go_leathers). Please contact me at +1(608)320 8046 if you have any questions or if you would like to negotiate an offer.

Ueno Naoki Right-bevel cutting knife Condition: New Price: 95USD Imgur link: https://imgur.com/gallery/YYIXXSl Instagram Link: https://www.instagram.com/p/B_e38DXgt-G/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link This is an extremely versatile leather knife, primarily used for cutting and skiving leather. The blade of the profile is a gentle curve. The handle is made from Desert Ironwood and the blade is made from D2 steel, tempered through cryogenic hardening. Ueno Naoki is a Japanese Blacksmith and woodworker, whose work is recognized by renowned leathercrafters like Tsuyoshi Yamashita(go_leathers). Please contact me at +1(608)320 8046 if you have any questions or if you would like to negotiate an offer.

Hello Everyone! I have a couple of Vergez Blanchard tools for sale that I got as a gift but never got around to using them. First there is a stitching roulette or pricking wheel with guide and includes #7, 8, 9, 10, 12 wheels, and a saddler's knife which is used to trim leather edges or cut veg tan leather used in the saddlery trade but not limited to it. Stitching Roulette - USD 240 Saddler's Knife - USD 60

This was my very first knife sheath. I bartered a custom holster for a custom knife a few years back. It has just been sitting in my desk in a cardboard sheath (cringe). I know. So...it was well overdue. I started out with simple expectations to "just make something leather to hold it," but that very quickly went out the door. It was much more involved than I had expected. It took considerable thought and planning. I had to layer up the leather to make a shelf on which the handle could sit, otherwise it would push the loop back when inserted. I had to consider so many other aspects. For example, I made the retention strap replaceable with a Chicago screw, so that, in the event that I cut the strap, or it became worn over time, it could be replaced. I had to carve out a dimple in an inside layer where the Chicago screw head could rest, allowing the layers to lie flush. On and on. I suppose these, along with the other things I had to figure out for myself are old hat for some of you, but it was probably faster than spending hours researching like I did before I made my first holster. Anyway, as always, I am all ears for constructive criticism. Oh yeah, the bear was from a practice scrap I did for a holster request that fell through. He sat on my workbench for months before I found a use for the poor fella. Never tooled any animals before. That was a whole other experience. Let me know what you think, and/or where I could improve on the next one. Thanks, ladies and gentlemen.

Here's a pancake knife sheath I did a while ago for a friend. 6-8 oz. Veg tan. Ryan

Hello all, I'm new to the site and have a question about my Barry King Swivel knife. I just upgraded to the bk with 1/2" barrel and 3/8" angled blade from a tandy starter knife. I went to try it out on properly cased economy grade leather and it stuck. I had to press pretty hard to get a decent cut and it was difficult to maneuver and drug pretty hard. I could barely get the knife to cut halfway through the leather pressing pretty hard. I stropped it and everything. I ran my finger on the blade and it was smooth, clean and very dull. My tandy knife was sharp and would cut my finger if pressed at all while drawing it across. But my tandy knife would cut too deep and easily leave undercuts and was sticky. This bk knife leaves a nice v but is very hard to use. Is this normal? I'm newer to the leather craft world and have been using that tandy knife for about a year. If I pressed hard enough it would go right through the leather. This knife is indenting the leather and not actually cutting it until I press real hard. Should I contact the company? It might take quite a bit to sharpen it and I don't want to ruin the blade if that's what needs to be done. You can see the difference in the photo below. BK on the left and Tandy on the right Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

Hello everyone I have so far only posted Sheridan style things but my main interest really is in European Medieval history. The scabbards are very much secondary objects in this case but there is leather involved and any history nerds out there might find it interesting, so here are a couple of medieval eating knives. These are both in the style of 14th/15th century examples- not exact copies of any originals in particular but borrowing design elements from the many knives and scabbards in the museum of London. The general standard of leatherwork in my reference was not the best, and some was down right terrible, and obviously I was much more limited than usual in what tools I could use, but I am quite pleased with the end results. These were both done freehand and you can tell- nothing has been measured and really it's all comparatively crude, but that is what the real ones look like and that was the aim here. Masterpieces of leather crafting they are not, but the original sheaths rarely were either it seems. Obviously I didn't want them to look rubbish but it's nice not worrying about neatness for a change! Technical specs- Both of these are 2mm veg tan, wet formed around the knife and then tooled. Occasionally they were double layered but these are not. The aim seems to have been just to overwhelm the eye with stuff, so if there is space, fill it with crosshatching or dots or anything to make it more interesting. The larger sheath has gothic lettering as it was for my brother's birthday, no prizes for guessing his name. They both have a back central seam stitched with waxed linen, and a couple of hanging thongs rather than modern belt loops. For anyone interested the knives themselves are both hand forged from 1080 carbon steel, with olive handle scales and brass pins and bolsters. I hope you like them! cheers Alex

OK, so I purchased a new head knife from an online retailer for C.S.Osborne. Literally the first chance to try it out, while stropping the handle came off in my hand. Contacted the retailer and no warranty. 30 days is all. Yes, I have had the knife for 8 months but never even took it out of the wrapper. My bad I guess for really not doing a complete inspection. Just wanted to inform members to look at what the are buying and inspect. Do not want anyone to spend money on inferior products. I am sure I can fix it, yet. I am sure the steel is quality, I have a lot of other tools from Osborne and never have had a problem.

Hi Anyone brought one of these knifes and was it any good, seems very low cost for damascus steel https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/Custom-Made-Online?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Hello, here is my first knife sheath i ever made i did only few key chains and bracelets before. I did many miskakes during the process as i have never worked with such a thick leather and almost didn't finish this project but i am glad i did. It can be atached to belt.

Hello, I purchased a Weaver Master Tools round knife a few months back and recently started cutting out some 8/9 oz veg tan using it. Didn't work too well so I ended up following the leather wrangler's video on sharpening the round knives using 1200 grit + 8000 grit diamond stones and a strop with green compound. After going through that sharpening process the knife cuts through leather like butter...for about 30 inches or so and then it slows down and considerable pressure is needed. I re-strop and it's great again for the same length. I then re-sharpened it over again spending much longer on the 8,000 grit and longer on the strop, but still have the same experience. The burr is gone after sharpening and I don't feel it after cutting the leather, so I don't think that would be the problem. I've read through many posts about the new osborne and tandy knives using poor quality steel that wont hold the edge very long - but my question is - does anyone know if that also applies to the Weaver Master Tools round knife? My experience would say yes, though I am not 100% sure. I did place an order for a Leather Wrangler's knife but it is several months out so I may have to do with the one I got for now. Originally I thought the Master Tools were a step up from the regular tools which is why I bought it. Thanks!

I have a commission to make a sheath for a karambit. This is a working knife and retrieval has to be quick and easy and reinsertion, at least simple and not fiddly. Unlike all of the Karambits detailed here, this has an extreme curve, is not for show and will be used for self defense. It is extremely sharp and immediately sliced open the seam of test sheath I constructed. I am not sure simply adding an extra layer of leather around the perimeter of the blade would work. The worst area is along the outer edge towards the tip. Suggestions or ideas are most welcome. Thanks! Bob

Hi I have been working with leather a while now, mainly on saddlery, bridles, chinks/armitas and plaiting and am wanting to make my partner a decent sheath for his muela hunting knife It wont be your normal sheath that hangs down off your belt, it will be a sheath that sits the knife as in line with the belt as possible. I have made rougher sheaths for my own work knives but am wanting to make something tight fitting and slightly decorative Does any one have any tips or advice, on making the pattern right through to finishing the sheath? All tips, do's/ donts are welcome Thanks!