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Mulesaw

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About Mulesaw

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  • Website URL
    http://mulesaw.blogspot.com/

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  • Location
    Denmark
  • Interests
    Woodworking, horses, vintage cars, leatherworking

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Horse tack, riding boots repair
  • Interested in learning about
    Saddle fitting and horse tack
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google

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  1. Interesting question. If a car is handmade, nobody will expect it to be made by one single person, but more skillfully put together by a dedicated team, and the engine and transmission etc. can be sourced from a regular street model (example:Lotus 7 or Caterham 7) If a tool or a bag or another smaller item is called handmade I think the general notion is that it is constructed by one person from start till end product. My best guess it derives from when automation began, and handmade was a way of signaling that the stuff was made in a traditional way.
  2. Looking good.
  3. WOW Congratulations. I think that sound like the deal of the year! I don't know anything specific about the machines, but I would keep them all until at least I am sure of that I won't need this or that machine. It is frustrating to discover that half the projects/customers needed something done with that one machine that you didn't think you needed anyway.
  4. Thanks for all the nice comments. @ JohnnyLongpants, I'll let you know if I make another one :-) I am glad that you like it. I think that I might need to work a bit on not making the awl too thin at the tip. But after testing it in a piece of scrap leather out here, it sure cuts easily. @Chuck123wapati, thanks a lot. I really like your antler handle. and the ferrule looks really cool. Your awl marks look much more diamond shaped than mine. So I think I'll have to work a bit on the shape of my blade (or whatever it is called on an awl). Brgds Jonas
  5. In order to celebrate that it is finally weekend, I decided to spend the evening on board making a diamond awl from bit and pieces I could find. The steel is from an old needle gun (rust picking gun) The ferrule is a small piece of copper pipe. The handle is turned from an old lignum vitae cringle from the rigging. First I filed the diamond shape in the needle. It is steel that is just annealed so much that I can work it. I didn't want to harden it anymore, because I have earlier tried that with the result that it became too brittle, and I haven't really got any good ways of annealing it properly out here (I don't want to get into bad standing by the galley department by using their oven). If it will become a problem in the future, I'll just try to harden it while it is mounted on the handle. The handle was turned in the lathe, and the ferrule was hand formed over a small die that I had turned for the same purpose. Now I just need to get home and see if it works as I imagined. Old cringle made out of lignum vitae. Turning the basic shape of the handle. Getting ready to mount the steel and the ferrule. The finished awl. The awl itself is 3 mm thick (approximately 1/8") The ferrule should have been a bit closer to the handle, but it was my first experiment with this type of formed ferrule. The little imperfection on the handle is left on purpose to acknowledge that it is made out of an old worn piece of equipment.
  6. That looks like a good setup. I haven't thought about using an old PC power supply, but I think that I'll copy your idea on that one instead of using the large battery charger at home. As I have understood it, using sodium carbonate and regular steel/iron as a cathode, will be the safest method. the gas emitted is CO2, and the end solution will be something that you can use to spread on your lawn, and it will help against moss growing, I think you can buy iron vitriol (might not be the correct name in English), in gardening centers, and that is what will eventually be in the tank. Some people use stainless steel as a cathode, but then you'll get a bit of chromium in the solution which supposedly isn't quite as good for the environment.
  7. If you are going to do the electrolysis, I think you need to be careful not to let the brass part of the handle touch the water/soda solution. I think it might damage the brass before removing any rust.
  8. If you want to do the electrolysis rust removing, here's what I have tried with success: Mix water and soda (natrium carbonate) in a bucket Put a piece of metal in the bottom of the container where you will be doing the electrolysis. I use an old piece of steel netting. Connect the positive terminal from a car battery or a battery charger to the metal in the bottom of the container. Pour in the water/soda mixture Suspend the rusted item in the mixture, it must not touch the metal in the bottom. Connect the negative terminal from the battery or the charger to the rusted item. After a bit of time (depending on voltage, concentration of the system etc), you will see bubbles and something like a layer forming on the surface above the rusted item. I let it sit for a day or so. Then remove the electrical connections and take the de-rusted piece out of the solution. There will be a black layer on the surface that I normally remove with a scotch brite pad. Note that some electronic type battery chargers won't work, presumably because they can't see any voltage at all and hence won't start. (I bought a charger from Lidl that did just that). I have also de-rusted plane irons by immersing them in regular household vinegar over the night. Again the rust turns into a black powder that is removed with a scotch brite pad. For smaller items such as a knife blade, I'd go with the vinegar. I doubt that any of the epoxies such as Belzona or Wencon etc. will work for sharpening. I have used them for repairing worn shafts that would sit in a bearing, or pitted pump housings, but they are not metal, so I would leave the pittings and look at them as character of that particular knife. Bgrds Jonas
  9. My saddle on my motorcycle is made of veg tan leather that has only been treated with neatsfoot oil. That has held up for the last 27 years so far. I have reapplied some oil to the saddle every now and then, but that is all. I think the colour of the sheath is dyed brown from the tannery, but I am pretty sure that it too has been given some oil over the years. Normally the leather stuff on our ship would get either tallow or something called lanopro wire oil. But that is just what we use here. Brgds Jonas
  10. I'd go for pure neatsfoot oil. I just checked with our bosun, and here's a picture of his sheath. It is a nice touch to make room for a marlinspike in the side, and the D-ring for securing the knife and the marlinspike when working aloft.
  11. Nothing like a successful experiment :-)
  12. It might take a bit of a different approach to cut out your templates compared to masonite. A fine toothed jigsaw or a fretsaw might be needed. Good luck with your quest!
  13. After replacing a zipper in our son's riding boots just using a regular sewing machine, I purchased an old Singer 29K51 patcher to make it a bit easier to do. I told my son that if any of his friends needed to have a zipper replaced in their boots, I'd be happy to try to do it. And I guestimated on a price including a zipper. The zippers on riding boots take a lot of beating, and new boots are expensive plus needs to be broken in before they are really comfortable. So a lot of riders will gladly pay to have the zipper replaced instead of investing in new boots. Depending on the make and model of the boot it takes between one hour to two hours to replace a zipper. I charge a fixed amount for the job and I provide the zipper, that way I don't end up with some weird zipper that doesn't work very well. After repairing a few boots, someone asked my son if I could repair horse blankets as well, and he immediately said yes. I looked into it, and since the blankets were washed and clean, it wasn't difficult to do the repairs on them. I had to purchase a bit of hardware to replace what might be missing. The patcher excels in those repairs, and though only a few of the blankets actually sport leather straps for closing, it is still a nice an doable job. It is just a hobby business for me, but I like to repair stuff and word gets around in the local horse community, so in my small business, I have managed to pay for two old patchers, a bunch of hardware and extra zippers, sewing thread etc. and still have a decent overall profit. I occasionally have a few repair jobs on leather equipment like headstalls and saddles, but boot repairs is a great way to start. I try to repair the boots within a day or two which is really appreciated by the riders compared to sending the boots away and having to wait a couple of weeks to get it done. When they come to pick up the boots I always make sure to tell them that I repair horse blankets too, and since the boots will likely last for a couple of years again before the zipper will be worn out once more, having a steady work of horse blankets is nice. So if you have an old patcher standing idle, I'd suggest buying a couple of zippers and try to contact some of the riders of your local horse club and let them know that you can replace a worn out zipper. I have only needed two lengths of zippers so far: 40 and 45 cm (15.75" and 17.75").
  14. I'm not sure about the price, but I had a transparent protection plate to put under my office chair a couple of years back. It was not brittle and I think that might be better for your templates than regular masonite. Here's a link for one that Ikea is selling (it's the Norwegian Ikea page). https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/kolon-gulvbeskytter-44881100/ It is smaller than a masonite plate, and more expensive, but if it would hold up better I guess it might be worth trying. Brgds Jonas
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